July 25, 2014, 07:21:13 AM

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Messages - Sporgon

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Animal Kingdom / Re: Portrait of your "Best friend"
« on: April 28, 2014, 02:58:12 PM »
Action portrait of Kali playing 'stick'. 1DX + 600 II.

That is such a good shot !

Now even I will admit you couldn't have done that on a 6D  ;)

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Backup for 6D for Wedding Photography
« on: April 28, 2014, 06:59:09 AM »
+ 1 on no need for a back up camera when shooting as a second, especially when you are using a new, good quality camera such as the 6D. These (generic) machines are incredibly reliable, being designed to reliably record one off, unrepeatable events.

However as a primary photographer at such an unrepeatable event I always have a back up of everything because of Sod's Law.

For a proper back up you really need exactly the same body, as has been said, so you can share the work load and lenses seamlessly between them.

As for the 6D vs 5D III debate, well ........ :-X

Canon General / Re: When do you know you have enough camera gear?
« on: April 27, 2014, 02:17:51 AM »
When you find gear at the bottom of your bag that you never knew you had......

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Need your help again, Dear Sir/ Madam
« on: April 26, 2014, 05:45:47 PM »
Hi Surapon, the numbers will be marking a scale of the polarisation axis, so just a reference to where you have it set.

Thank you, Sir, Dear Friend Sporgon.
But How can I set that number  according to the sun's location ?. It must to have an easy way, Like HOYA's White mark.( ??)
Thanks again, Sir.

Hi Surapon, I'm guessing that number 1 will equal the same axis as the White mark on the Hoya. I'm assuming the numbers go half way around the lens. Looks good anyway !

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Need your help again, Dear Sir/ Madam
« on: April 26, 2014, 05:33:26 PM »
Hi Surapon, the numbers will be marking a scale of the polarisation axis, so just a reference to where you have it set.

Canon EF Prime Lenses / Re: Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L USM
« on: April 26, 2014, 12:24:43 PM »
I do not know why so many people hate this lens... I love it! I don't care what Sigma or what ever present, that 1.2L Glas is so damn lovely! <3
Shot on a 5D Lr + Ps for Skin. (all at 1.2, except the last one at 1.4)

The problem with "examples" like that is they are post process driven, I could give an image shot taken with any 50mm lens at any aperture (at the same shoot) to a decent post processor and get them to look very similar.

+1, if you want to see a plethora of images processed in this way look on 500px. You can see similar images shot on all sorts of cameras with all sorts of lenses.

Like theses images though.

Lenses / Re: Canon IS Primes for landscapes?
« on: April 26, 2014, 09:12:33 AM »
Looks like I’ve made my decision: It’s going to be the Canon 6D kit with the 24-70 f/4 L lens, just a matter of waiting on a good deal (Canon Cash-back, a good shop discount or both).

The 24-70 f/4 should be able to produce the results I’m after, but I’ll put aside the money I save so I can always “upgrade” to some prime lenses when needed (with or without selling off the 24-70 f/4).

Maybe in the long term save enough to get some Zeiss glass, but meanwhile the FF upgrade should keep me satisfied.

Good choice; we bought a 6D kit with 24-70 IS and the two go really well together. With this lens I think you'll find that any future purchase of a prime in the same focal length range would be for faster aperture.

Not sure if this has already been mentioned, but if Sigma are able to give a 24 mm focal length the edge of frame resolution at 1.4-2 that they have achieved in the 35 + 50 Art line ( much more difficult at 24mm I know), then it would actually be a more significant lens to a much larger audience because as the 24mm has a much greater dof, it would be practical to use it at say 2.8 to achieve adequate dof in low light, allowing landscape shooting at lower ISO's and faster shutter speeds in low light, with little vignette.

I think if this was the case we would see a response from Canon in a 24/1.4 III

Lenses / Re: A lightwight wildlife lens
« on: April 26, 2014, 03:16:15 AM »
Sounds like the 70-300L was made for your wife  ;)

Incidentally I find taking tc's in and out a pain so the fact the 70-300L doesn't take one doesn't bother me.

Canon EF Prime Lenses / Canon EF 28mm f1.8 USM
« on: April 25, 2014, 12:47:18 PM »
I see no one on CR has been brave enough to admit to owning the 28/1.8 let alone posting any shots with it.

A much maligned and misunderstood lens, it's reputation in tatters from the on line review specialists.

Actually it's damn sharp in the broad centre from 2.8 onwards and then gets quite sharp again at the very edges having had a dog's breakfast somewhere in between. Can't match the excellent 28/2.8 IS towards the edge of frame but then it doesn't vignette at f2.8.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Zeiss Otus Initial Impressions
« on: April 25, 2014, 03:40:08 AM »
I remember reading somewhere that the rings could be due to the grinding/polishing process of the aspherical elements.  According to the TDP link, it looks like the Canon 35 f/2 IS is remarkable in the smoothness of the OOF region.  It might be worth bringing the Otus and S35 to a camera store and comparing it with the 35 f/2 IS.  If the 35 f/2 IS performs notably better than the other two on the same subject then you'd have your answer.

The 35 IS will use moulded elements rather than ground & polished. I wonder if we are seeing an improvement in moulded element technology in that lens. It does seems to aquite itself very well against lenses that are using the much more expensive process.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: FUJIFILM'S latest, X-T1 ?
« on: April 24, 2014, 08:59:11 AM »
One day after making the previous post, the camera store called and said my X-T1 had arrived. I've been playing with it for eight days now (two of which were in pouring rain), using my old Asahi Takumar lenses as my only lenses, i.e. MF all the way. My assessment, seeing that this is a forum dedicated to Canon gear, and you may freely quote me, is simply: "Goodbye Canon."

You were using old bodies ! I think you might have felt differently if you'd had a 6D for instance. I have to say that the 30D was the worst DSLR I ever used in the EOS range; I dont know what Canon altered between that one and the 20D, but the 20 was better for noise in skys etc.

Anyway I hope you enjoy the Fuji. My very first slr was an old Fuji ST 701 so I have a romantic attachment to them, but over time I have come to the conclusion Canon makes the best all-round system.


I've never heard of anyone cleaning the AF sensor, dust on it does not show in the images, and is very unlikely to affect exposure, so the risk versus improvement ratio is pretty high.  Same for the sub mirror.

Marsu42 was referring to the AF accuracy.

@ marsu42; you have to raise the mirror to expose the AF module, so I have to do it as per the camera sensor cleaning operation.

Agreed you are blowing dust from one place to another, but on a number of occasions I have had an outer point that seems to have failed altogether. I give the AF module and sensor a good blow with a rocket blower and that outer point that seems to have failed works fine again.

Remember that with zoom lenses that alter their physical length such as the 24-105, 24-70, 70-300, 100-400 etc, their zoom action is constantly pumping air in and out of the camera. Although the weather sealed lenses do have a brush 'seal' around the inner barrel it sure as hell aint a good dust seal after a fair amount of use. So someone who uses these types of lenses a lot are going to get more dust issues than someone who just uses primes, even though they may be changing lenses more. 

A tip for you on focusing on 'naked' horses - I am presuming you are shooting wild ones without any head collars or tack on - try using Servo AF with the centre points expanded, and unless very close have all AF points activated. I know this sounds contrary to 'single shot AF' and centre  point being more accurate, but I have found that when trying to focus an an animal with very flat fur such as a horse, the aformentioned method is much more successful with the 5DII and 6D.

A few have mentioned the 28/1.8. This may not be suitable for your needs; it is very much an 'art' lens ( pinching Sigmas title) and although razor sharp in the centre it really falls off mid frame. Even stopped down to f8 it can't match say the 24-105 mid frame. However if you want to shoot wide angle shallow depth of field, dreamy type shots it is excellent.

While I do agree with you, in my experience, the lack of corner sharpness is much less noticeable when using the 28mm f1.8 with a APS-C sensor.

I agree, it is less noticeable on crop when stopped down a little, but it still does very much effect the edges of the frame, and when compared with lenses such as the 40 or 35IS there is no comparison.

Actually on FF the 28/1.8 does actually recover at the edge of the frame to a much more reasonable level which is quite weird.

I think the 28/1.8 is a great lens to have for specialist, 'creative' types of photography, and is totally misunderstood by the reviewers who do a very good job of making sure it goes nice 'n cheap on the used market  ;)

So as with lenses such as the 70-300 DO the moral of the story is don't buy a new one !

Photography Technique / Re: Panning
« on: April 24, 2014, 03:25:57 AM »
I tried some panning shots today. Gear used was 5D Mark III and the 70-200 II. I shot a reasonable number of images today and these are two of the few shots that I liked. The first shot is at ISO 50, 70mm, f/2.8 at 1/50s. The second shot is at ISO 100, 70mm, f/2.8 and 1/60s. The lens was in IS Mode II.
Issues -
1) I wasn't able to generate a more streaking background despite shutter speeds which I thought were reasonably low;
2) Dropping the shutter speed lower resulted in an extremely poor hit rate;
Please suggest as to how can I improve my panning technique.
Thanks in advance,
Regards ... J.R.

Love the second shot !

Can't add anything else to what has been said.

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