Tips on shooting hockey?

[ahsanford]

Awesome.   Great guidance all.

@FTb-n:  Super detailed, thanks.  The 'lens collar mount' you refer to is just the native 70-200 tripod ring, right?  You aren't referring to a special swivel mount for a monopod, right?

@bdunbar79:  Oh crap, I never thought of that.  If Auto ISO for Av doesn't have the fast shutter speed I want, I can use Auto ISO on Tv and frame the aperture limits instead.  Clever!

Everyone, any comments on shooting over glass but through the nets above the glass?  Do-able or not?

Can't wait to shoot again.  The next game I can make is in two weeks.

- A

[FTb-n]

Yes, I was refering to the tripod ring that comes with the 70-200L.

I do use a Bogen (now Manfrotto) quick release tilt head on my mono-pod so I can tilt down and up.  The tilt and the quick release work well for me.  This is a personal preference thing.  Some prefer mounting the lens tripod ring directly to the mono-pod without a head.  You'll have to figure out which works best for you.  (But, be wary of the ball mount.  It never stays put when shooting action.)

http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-234RC-Monopod-Quick-Release/dp/B000JLM50I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1351732295&sr=8-3&keywords=manfrotto+qr+tilt+head

[krjc]

For hockey I feel comfortable all the way up to 12,800. I rarely get good photos under 1/800 when the puck is in play. Try M with aperture and shutter set and ISO on ISO with a max of 12,800 ISO set. Focus point I set in middle with 8 surrounding points. Also good to put on high speed continuous. I have never tried any of the special modes for focusing. I guess I should give it a try.

You can go Auto ISO in full manual?  Didn't know you could do that.  Will try, thx.

With a 5D3 yes, but then I'm not sure you can EC +1.  I know you can on 1D bodies, but not sure about 5D3. 

Yes you got me on that one. When I did EC+1, I was in shutter priority.  . Another reason to want a 1DX 

[MRLinVA]

Typical setup has been 7D with 70-200 MkII sometime with 2x ext, sometimes 300mm 2.8 MkII.  Have not had a chance to try out the 1Dx due to the lockout. 

[MRLinVA]

Fight on

[MRLinVA]

I typically shoot over the glass.

[Northstar]

One thing I would say is to find your settings while players are warming up before the game, and then stick with them.

No auto iso, set fixed iso somewhere between 1600 to 6400 at 2.8 with shutter speed at 1/640 to 1/1000. (All depending on the light)

I like center focus point with 8 surrounding....servo case number 1 or 4 seem to work.....center weighted average meter.

It looks like you need to do some custom white balance because your shots are too blue, as others have mentioned.

Shooting over the glass will net you best IQ, but there is nothing better than a nice shot from on the ice, behind and slightly to the side of the goal or in the corners...the downside is that you have to live with slightly less IQ as the plexiglass dulls the image...always trade offs in photography.

Have you gone back for more hockey yet?

[RustyTheGeek]

Something I haven't quite seen yet with regard to Exposure and White Balance - you'll never get it consistently spot on in the arena.  You'll get close but that's all you can hope for.  Arenas use lights that pulse at 60Hz.  Since you aren't going to be shooting at 1/60 or below, you are going to catch the lights at different points in their phasing.  This will cause your sequential shots to vary both in exposure and color (white balance) as the lights change intensity and color.  Set you camera as others have said using manual settings and choose a manual white balance that you like and don't change it.  Avoid AWB at all costs.

The trick is to at least try to keep things as consistent as possible so when you clean things up in post, the variation will be more predictable and easier to deal with.  As you can imagine, AWB would wreak havoc on the WB consistency.  And I totally agree, RAW is the way to go.  Avoid JPG because you will likely want to adjust more than JPG will allow.

Here's a great write up on this issue...
http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=20873

FWIW, your pictures already look great.  I can't wait to see the next set!!  Have FUN!!!   

[dlleno]

Yes, I was refering to the tripod ring that comes with the 70-200L.

I do use a Bogen (now Manfrotto) quick release tilt head on my mono-pod so I can tilt down and up.  The tilt and the quick release work well for me.  This is a personal preference thing.  Some prefer mounting the lens tripod ring directly to the mono-pod without a head.  You'll have to figure out which works best for you.  (But, be wary of the ball mount.  It never stays put when shooting action.)

http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-234RC-Monopod-Quick-Release/dp/B000JLM50I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1351732295&sr=8-3&keywords=manfrotto+qr+tilt+head

personal preferences to be sure;  here's mine:  I brought in the 234C and sent it right back because I wanted something beefier atop my Gitzo.  I also wanted a head that could rotate 180 to accomodate the difference between my camera body plate and my 70-200 lens plate.  The RRS monopod head is expensive, but for me its perfect.  2-axes of rotation is all you really need for a monopod --  I didn't want a ballhead for the same reasons you mentioned, but this RRS head is a real wahoo I have to say. 

http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=MH-02-Pro&type=0&eq=MH-02-Pro-001&desc=MH-02-Pro%3a-Head-with-Indexing-Pro-Clamp&key=ait

Its available in the lever mount too...

[Northstar]

Typical setup has been 7D with 70-200 MkII sometime with 2x ext, sometimes 300mm 2.8 MkII.  Have not had a chance to try out the 1Dx due to the lockout. 

I love the ref that is just standing with hands on hips....I can read his mind, "I wonder if I have any beer in the fridge at home"

[RustyTheGeek]

Picture a thought bubble over his head of Homer Simpson thinking, Ummmm!  Beeer!   

[Northstar]

Picture a thought bubble over his head of Homer Simpson thinking, Ummmm!  Beeer!   

you r funny rusty! lol

[tomx]

Anybody used t2i/3i/4i and the 70-200mm IS II lens to shot hockey? I just bought the lens but need a body and don't want to spend too much (already spent on the lens .

BTW, I bought the lens to shoot pics for my son's pee wee hockey games. I have an old Canon 300D (6 MP) and I did try it with the 70-200mm IS II lens. The result is not very good - the highest ISO I can set is 1600 and this only give ma about 1/250 SS with 'correct' exposure which is still a little bit dark to me. I shoot with Av and already set the aperture to f/2.8 which is the widest.

Thanks in advance!

Tom

[FTb-n]

I've used a T2i and a 60D for figure skating.  Both can handle the higher ISO, but both will have theire fair share of OOF shots do to relatively slow focus tracking.  The T2i has a very slow burst mode and buffer.   The buffer on the 60D is better for JPEGs, but RAW will fill up if you're not careful.

Consider Canon's refurb store.  I saved a bunch last year with my 7D from there.

Of the crop bodies currently available, I think your choice will narrow down to two options.

1. T4i -- With Digic 5, has the best high ISO noise reduction for JPEGs.  RAW images should be very similar.  Also offers auto-focus for video.  However, this is NOT a high action body.  Only 5fps and a RAW buffer of only 6 shots.  You can get excited about the action on the ice, fire lots of shots in a hurry (not all in burst), only to have a full buffer when the puck enters the net.  But, the price is good.  (The new T5i is essentually the same camera with minor updates.)

http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_320718_-1

2. 7D -- The best sports crop Canon makes.  Compared to the T-series and the xxD, it's focus system is amazing and a great match for the 70-200.  I bought my 70-200 when I had a 60D and was frustrated with roughly 20% OOF of figure skating shots.  20% doesn't sound bad, but if your key moments are among the 20%, it's terrible.  For me, the 60D held me back from the full potentual of the 70-200.  As for the buffer -- nothing to worry about (I use use Transcend 600x cards).  8fps is a nice bonus.  Slower burst rates are often useless after the second shot.  For figure skating, I prefer shutter speeds between 1/500 and 1/800 at f2.8.  I routinely shoot at ISO 1600- 3200.  You will get noise, but Lightroom 4 does a great job at cleaning it up.

http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_260463_-1

[tomx]

Thanks for the reply!

I just bought a refurbished t2i yesterday from Canon Store (can't help buying it due to the attractive price at $336 ). Will try it out to see how it goes.

Regarding to the IS lens, should I turn it off or set it to mode 2 when shooting hockey? Thanks again!

Tom