EOS R first impressions - post your hands-on impressions here

[Viggo]

I tried my 50mm Macro and 100L with the camera briefly, snapping a hand held shot of a couple of flowers that have not yet been frozen this fall. It seemed to AF very well at relatively close distances. I also tried a 55mm Nikkor AI macro with adapter and focus peaking. That was no go, the focus peaking is just not precise enough, or I am moving slightly so I'll need a tripod to check that.

This is the 50mm f/2.5.

100mm L

Did you try the focus-assist from the Cine-cameras? I found to be insanely precise with the 85 f1.4 L.

 

[Deleted member 7828]

Did you not read WHY it was soft? It has nothing to do with the raw files

This? Yes:

Unsurprisingly, the Canon EOS R vs. 5D Mark IV comparison shows the two cameras about equal with an important note. That note is that the 5D Mark IV's image is slightly sharper. While it immediately looks like the 5D IV is delivering better image quality, that is not necessarily the case.

We have long been using a low Canon Digital Photo Professional sharpness setting of "1" (on a 1-10 scale) for lens testing as sharpening quickly masks differences between lenses. While it seems that increasing the sharpness of an image is a cheap fix to poor lens quality, that sharpening quickly becomes destructive to details, ruining the fine image quality you were seeking in the first place. Camera manufacturers know that you like sharp images and they crank up the default sharpness in attempt to make you happy. Nearly always, that setting is at a very destructive level. Fortunately, you can adjust the sharpness level to your taste.

There is a long pipeline between the imaging sensor and the final image file and not all cameras utilize identical hardware and software (most often, they do not). More specifically to the point, the amount of sharpening showing in a final JPG image processed using the same settings is not always the same. And, that is the case here.

I didn't mention it in my above rant, but I did notice that there doesn't necessarily seem to be (noticeably) less detail per se, it is just, for whatever reason, softer. It still translates to more time necessary to adjust many shots to taste in post.

Update: I typically use 4/3/3 USM in DPP to get in-focus 5D4 and M6 shots to taste, as well as lower the NR by about 1 level. After some tweaking, looks like I find I favor a 6/3/3 USM for the EOS R (and leaving NR on default setting). Reminds me of my old 7D, where I used 6/4/4 as the default. As a reference, for the high-res 5DSR I stick to the default 3/4/4 setting, and with the 85 1.4 IS I find myself sometimes even turning it down to 2/4/4 or 1.5/4/4.

Anyway, one thing's for sure: the sensor may have the same amount of MP as the 5D4 but the processing algorithm of the two cameras is very different

 

[dak723]

No polarization. They do play havoc with LCD displays.

I thought I'd mention it in case someone else saw it as well. I have no issue with the viewfinder except in the bright sunlight, yesterday was a beautiful fall day and very bright.

While not an expert on EVF's by any means, I would say this is a common occurance with EVFs. In bright sunlight from certain angles, you have to shde the EVF with your hand or you just can't see much. I think this is common with all brands.

So while the mirrorless crusaders (which I am not one despite owning only mirrorless) there are still advantages to the OVF. For that reason, DSLRs are almost certainly not going away soon - or maybe ever.

 

[dak723]

I tried my 50mm Macro and 100L with the camera briefly, snapping a hand held shot of a couple of flowers that have not yet been frozen this fall. It seemed to AF very well at relatively close distances. I also tried a 55mm Nikkor AI macro with adapter and focus peaking. That was no go, the focus peaking is just not precise enough, or I am moving slightly so I'll need a tripod to check that.

Focus peaking - in my limited experience with some of the earlier Sony FF models - is more of a gimmick than a useful tool when it comes to any sort of macro or narrow DOF work. It works for landcapes or when the DOF is very wide. It basically says - yes, your photo is in focus, not this part or that part is in focus. No where near precise for that, in my opinion. I have read that it can vary widely by brand and may have improved over the years. It will be interesting to see if the Canon focus peaking is better than most.

 

[vjlex]

I got to play around with a store copy of the EOS R today, but wasn't too impressed. Granted, 5 to 10 minutes of flipping through the menus and taking a couple shots isn't enough to assess this camera fairly, but it wasn't love at first shot or anything. It felt like a pared down 5D Mark IV (and really that's what it is, I guess)

One thing I couldn't figure out- turning the control ring by itself had no effect. It required that I half-press the shutter button to use it (I set it for controlling ISO). Is that how it's supposed to work? It kind of defeats the purpose for me if I have to simultaneously press another button to use the control ring. Is there a setting to change that?

Also, I didn't really like the EVF. It's the second Canon EVF I've tried, and the second one I've disliked. I think I probably am just not a fan of EVF. Staring at them makes me feel kinda dizzy. If I end up going FF MILC at some point, I'll probably stick to the LCD/live view for composing my shots.

I just played around with it a little more on my lunch break. I found the aforementioned setting to utilize the control ring without having to simultaneously press the exposure button. It's in the same custom menu, just a different option.

Also, I played around a little more with the AF and touch focus. Gotta admit, it is lovely. Fast and accurate. I'm even getting somewhat used to the EVF, although I still personally prefer the LCD.

The camera is growing on me. Although I still probably will wait for a more pro-oriented version of the camera to be announced, I feel a lot more comfortable now with getting an R.

 

[vjlex]

I'll have to take another look. But I could have sworn it wasn't an option.

To lend credence to your problem, I tried today again and at first turning the mode dial had no effect. I searched for a setting in the menus and couldn't find any option for the mode dial. But then after exiting the menus and trying the mode dial again, its exposure compensation function started working again. Kinda weird.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

I did some more playing around with my new toy today, I tried out my old Tokina 17mm f/3.5 prime, its very old but a nice lens, and it seemed to work very well on my R, a tough test of Tokina's reverse engineering from long long ago.

Then, I tried a generic L plate that I had bought for my SL-2 for just a few $ on Amazon. While not a custom fit, it did fit, and I could connect cables to it and open the LCD out fully, but not face the front.

I then connected the camera to the pc in my studio, updated the Canon software, and having had the foresight to buy a USB C cable that would plug into the USB 3 ports on my PC, it tethered and operated remotely very well. I captured several images of my products to upload to my store.

Finally, the check I had been dreading, using my Case Relay to power the camera from a USB power source or a USB battery. The camera worked very well with it and showed a 100% battery charge while it was connected to a standard 2.2 amp USB Charger.

So far, everything I've tried has worked as well or better than my 5D MK IV, but my MK IV is overkill, I don't use a lot of its capabilities.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

Did you try the focus-assist from the Cine-cameras? I found to be insanely precise with the 85 f1.4 L.

I could not get focus assist to work with the lens, I turned it on earlier with a EF lens mounted, and it worked fine, so its possible that some setting is blocking it. Most likely, I was moving slightly after focusing, even though I tried to stay absolutely still. When the lens is manually stopped down, the peaking shows a depth of field, so its difficult to get the exact spot in focus, opening the lens to focus then closing it down and taking the shot all the while trying not to move is a issue for me.

I did have the camera mounted to my light table today, but did not think of trying again with the micro lens to verify that moving was the issue. It works so well with the DPAF and touch to focus that I will be using that for most cases. I do have a bellows adapter that I can use for really precise macro stacking shots and a fully manual lens. It tilts as well to change the focus plane.

 

[Viggo]

Just wanted to do a quick update.

I tried shooting kids soccer last night with brutal artificial light, anti-Flickr ON, mixed with sunset and dark surroundings. Exit f1.4 (85 L) 1/1000s iso 8000-12800 and single point with 4 point expansion. And used release priority and 5 fps. I couldn’t be happier, I can’t post shots as I haven’t an ideal converter method yet, and it’s all other people’s kids, so you’re gonna have to trust me. It was incredible , I’m blown away! I shot perhaps 300 shots and it didn’t miss focus more than 3-4 times, and I’m guessing that was my fault also. I can’t believe how good this AF system is, it’s everything I counted on the 1dx2 to be when I bought it, but wasn’t for me.

You heard it here first, I love mirrorless

 

[vaotix]

To lend credence to your problem, I tried today again and at first turning the mode dial had no effect. I searched for a setting in the menus and couldn't find any option for the mode dial. But then after exiting the menus and trying the mode dial again, its exposure compensation function started working again. Kinda weird.

I can only get the dial to change exposure comp when half pressing the shutter button. There's no option to customize this functionality, as far as I can tell. And the dial customization options in the menu only seems to let you change what it does in M mode. It's kinda odd and a little unclear.

 

[Viggo]

I can only get the dial to change exposure comp when half pressing the shutter button. There's no option to customize this functionality, as far as I can tell. And the dial customization options in the menu only seems to let you change what it does in M mode. It's kinda odd and a little unclear.

It isn’t unclear, the EC is only possible to adjust when the Metering is active

 

[SereneSpeed]

QUESTIONS FOR OTHER USERS:

1 - Please tell me I'm doing something wrong... Is there a way to "touch and drag AF' while metering? If I half press the the shutter release, the AF point stops moving.

2 - Why is so much tied to metering? I can't change ISO with the mode dial unless the camera is metering?

OBSERVATIONS:

1 - Sigma Art 50 and 85 are 100% perfect on the R. Razor sharp, fast, and sure footed.

2 - The AF is better than the 5Div - It's scary good.

3 - The Mode dial is in a horrible place for me. My thumb has to reach up and over the hump in the right and I rub the hump while turning the dial. Very un-canon-like...

4 - This is nowhere close to a 5Div in build or ergonomics. That said, for what I just paid, I've gotten at least the same value.

5 - I went from a T3i to a 5D3 with absolutely no hiccups. Using the 5Div was exactly like using the 5D3. This camera is like switching from a PC to a Mac. It does the same things, but it's slightly different in almost every way. I'd complain here, but It hasn't been long enough to give it a fair chance.

6 - Cannot see using the M-Fn bar. Not good use of space. Again, this seems un-canon-like

7 - This camera sees in the dark. It AF's in darkness I can not see in. And it AF's perfectly. At ISO 40,000 1/100th 1.4 the camera focuses accurately. I can't use images with ISO that high. That's the new limiting factor for me. ISO, not AF...

8 - Why oh why can't we have Zebras or Highlight Alert in the EVF?

9 - The EVF is really tough to setup so it's close to the Histogram. I've never complained about dynamic range before, but I will now. I want an EVF with more dynamic range. Detecting blown highlights will take some getting used to. But,

10 - Having an Histogram in the EVF is pretty special.

Okay, that's it after only a couple hours in hand.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

I managed to spend some time with my R snapping photos to learn how well it does, I even tried a old 35-80mm basic Canon lens with it, and it surprised me by how well it worked, AF was slow, of course, and at 80mm, the IQ was poor, but it focused accurately with no hunting.

Then, I had two Pentax M42 lenses at hand and I have several adaopters for them. I had wanted to try a 50mm f/1.4 that came my way for free, the front element was scratched up, and it was well used, but everything seemed to work. I was surprised and impressed with the brilliant colors and general IQ. I did try using the focus peaking with it, but it did not achieve critical focus, so I used the 5X setting and focused manually. That did a great job. Then, I tried a 2nf Pentax lens, a 50mm f/2. I was not as impressed with it, but it did do a good job.

Finally, I pulled out my 600mm Sigma mirror lens, thinking that focus peaking would make it a joy to use. Wrong again, I thought I had it nailed with the numerous different things I shot, but not one photo was well focused. I did not try the 5X magnification, I might yet do that.

I tried the 55mm Nikkor again using focus peaking for a close shot of the Sigma Mirror lens and it worked well. The camera was solidly attached to my light table. I compared it with a tethered manual focus using 10 X on my PC. It wasn't as good, but close.

I have dozens of various manual lenses, I may try some of my Olympus OM lenses as well.

 

[koenkooi]

[..]
Then, I had two Pentax M42 lenses at hand and I have several adaopters for them. I had wanted to try a 50mm f/1.4 that came my way for free, the front element was scratched up, and it was well used, but everything seemed to work. I was surprised and impressed with the brilliant colors and general IQ. I did try using the focus peaking with it, but it did not achieve critical focus, so I used the 5X setting and focused manually. [..]

Does the new focus assist moving arrows thing work with those lenses? That would use DPAF for focus and should be a lot better than peaking.

 

[sfwrtr]

Is there any AF Flash illuminator love with the R? Will it work with standard illuminators (where there's a red pattern on the target), or is it hopeless, like Sony cameras?

I have the same lens as the poster. The EOS R has a yellow illuminator that lights as needed; the trick is it has a range of about 13 feet. I've captured images in a dim room at f/1.2 and got spot on results. I use the magnifier feature to show the focus point, and it just doesn't miss. I was thinking of selling my EF 85mm because I couldn't get it to focus handheld with my 5D MIII, but on the EOS R, it work great. Here's a silly unprocessed JPEG with full camera EXIF. Click to view or download; be my guest.

 

[sfwrtr]

i've been using my EOS R with an EF 85L F/1.2, an EF 24-105, and EF 40mm f/2.8 STM for a few days now. The auto-focus is amazing and fast. I use both the drag feature on the view screen and the AF button and the D-Pad to move the AF point around. I can't believe any reviewer that says they need the numbin. Setting an AF point is so much faster than it was on my 5D Mark III.

The ability to magnify the focus point in the viewfinder is a bonus.

I can actually walk around with my 85mm at f/1.2 and capture images handheld. Shooting with the Dual Pixel feature enabled looks to allow me to correct small discrepancies like just missing the eye. I've only tried it on flowers, but I was able use DPP to move the focus on a rosebud (taken handheld at f/2.5) to the tip of the rosette from slightly down the petal, so I can see that will prove useful (see below).

The shot to shot speed is great even with Dual Pixel enabled. (I did buy the Sony XD II 400r400w card.) I am not a sports photographer, so take with an appropriate grain of salt. I wonder if I'll ever need my 5D ever again. I'm writing up my impressions in detail on a blog at Canon EOS R Review.

 

[Kit Lens Jockey]

Can anyone elaborate on the AF, when coupled with a wide open large aperture lens, when your subject is moving?

For now, I use the 1DXII to take pictures of my 8 month old daughter moving around, for the most part coupled with the 24LII, 35LII and 50L. I use single point AF in servo mode. It is a challenge to have her eyes in focus when using large aperture, and I guess my keeper rate is maybe 1-2 out of 10. Do you think I can expect a better keeper rate with the EOS R?

I briefly used single point servo AF with the EOS R and the 50 1.2L at f1.2. It seemed to do more or less ok, but honestly even my 5D IV never did particularly well with this. It's just a very difficult situation to focus in.

 

[bhf3737]

So far, for architecture, still life and macro photography the EOS R seems to be a very good match. The focus guide is excellent and precise with macro lenses MPE-65 and 100L (set to manual focus) and of course the TSE-24 (for architecture). I found focus guide more precise than the focus peaking. But haven't been able to change the size of the focus area when using the focus guide.
One missing feature so far is the lack of ability to use optical remote control RC-6 with this camera. The manual says that the Bluetooth remote controller BR-E1 should work, though.

 

[Viggo]

I took a bunch of dark shots at every subject and place I could, converted to dng and pushed them +5.00 stops in Lr, there is NO BANDING.....Absolutely no banding.

Then... then I took a few shots with flash (Bron monolight) of my daughter against a black wall, pushed the black wall up and it showed the same green banding Tony showed at +1.65 stops. Anyone know why it happens with flash, but not at all with any other shot?

 

[SereneSpeed]

The EOS R has two types of silent shooting settings.

A 'Silent Shutter' and 'Silent LV Shoot'. 'Silent LV Shoot' is set to 'mode 1' as default.

I just discovered that that is what's causing the banding with flash! I was wracking my brain!

Set that to "Silent LV Shoot.' to disable and the banding goes away.

However, At 1/8000th with a Canon EX600RT and 'Silent LV Shoot' set to 'Disable' you will get a line of blown out highlight at the bottom of your image. It looks like the exact opposite of exceeding your x-sync. At 1/4000th, nothing.

I took a bunch of dark shots at every subject and place I could, converted to dng and pushed them +5.00 stops in Lr, there is NO BANDING.....Absolutely no banding.

Then... then I took a few shots with flash (Bron monolight) of my daughter against a black wall, pushed the black wall up and it showed the same green banding Tony showed at +1.65 stops. Anyone know why it happens with flash, but not at all with any other shot?

Viggo, I'm dying to know what your 'Silent LV Shoot' was set to? And if it wasn't set to disable... I wonder if Tony was using the default setting of 'Mode 1' when he got the banding... ?

I cannot remember where, but in one of the threads here, someone mentioned banding under a type of LED of fluorescent tube. I wonder if that had anything to do with 'Silent LV Shoot."?