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Hoya UV filters

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cayenne

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Mar 28, 2012
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Ok, I'm getting close, maybe this evening to getting the 5D Mark III....with the kit 24mm-105mm lens, and also a 85mm 1.8 prime lens.

These take filters at 77mm and 58mm respectively. I'm looking to get UV filters for them and on crutchfield, the Hoyas look good.

There are two types and wondering if the extra is worth it....

Hoya UV HMC (on the filter itself labeled UV(C))
and
Hoya DMC Pro 1 (on the filter itself labeled UV(O)

Can someone tell me the difference...and if it is worth the $22-$25 difference in price?

Thank you in advance,

cayenne
 
neuroanatomist said:
The HMC isn't as good, and it's harder to clean. SHMC is optically better, still hard to clean. The only easy to clean Hoya is the HD line. Personally, I prefer B+W MRC.

Personally I am not a huge fan of UV filters (not trying to persuade anyone). I had a Hoya UV filter (can't recall exact type) but I found that it took away sharpness. After that I never really bothered in investigating better UV filters and I just thought why put "cheap" glass in front of thousand dollar glass just for protection? But I am now starting to change my thinking again and was wondering what you guys recommend? Maybe some with / without photo comparisons?
 
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Hoya makes several grades of filters, from low-end non- of single-coated ones that degrade IQ to high quality filters.

High end filters shouldn't affect sharpness, but in some situations they can increase flare, even the best filters.
 
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If this is for "protection," unless you're shooting in situations in which you yourself need eye protection (gravel kicked up by hooves at a rodeo, blood spray ringside at a boxing match, etc.) or for weather / moisture sealing (especially ocean spray), skip the filter and go for a lens hood. It'll offer substantially more real-world protection and it'll improve image quality to boot.

It should also be obvious that, if you're using a filter for protection, the filter itself is something of a disposable item.

Cheers,

b&
 
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TrumpetPower! said:
If this is for "protection," unless you're shooting in situations in which you yourself need eye protection (gravel kicked up by hooves at a rodeo, blood spray ringside at a boxing match, etc.) or for weather / moisture sealing (especially ocean spray), skip the filter and go for a lens hood. It'll offer substantially more real-world protection and it'll improve image quality to boot.

It should also be obvious that, if you're using a filter for protection, the filter itself is something of a disposable item.

Cheers,

b&

Yes this is what I have been thinking and doing for the last 6-7 years and I almost always shoot with a lens hood. Longer lenses' lens hoods extend further away from the lens and offer more protection than wide angle lens hoods. It is more for the wide angle lenses that I am looking for a decent UV filter. So any suggestions on good quality filters will be appreciated. I'll rather replace an expensive scratched UV filter than an expensive L series lens :)
 
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neuroanatomist said:
The HMC isn't as good, and it's harder to clean. SHMC is optically better, still hard to clean. The only easy to clean Hoya is the HD line. Personally, I prefer B+W MRC.

+1
Tho I still prefer to use the Hoya HMC Super - great optical quality and you can sometimes find them for a really good deal if you shop around. Still, this is a really difficult filter to clean, streaks like crazy and I've had one get coating damage from raindrops. (likely a little acidic here in air-polluted AB)
They're supposed to have another version with a different coating that's easier to clean, with only a slight loss of light transmission, imperceptible.

I avoid any of the "digital" ones, if they're not just a marketing gimick to pull more $ from your wallet then some of them actually soften the image. Those could be a good option for D800e shooters to avoid moire.
 
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hhelmbold said:
I'll rather replace an expensive scratched UV filter than an expensive L series lens :)

You might want to check with Canon first. Don't be surprised if there's not that much difference between the cost of replacing the front element with the cost of replacing the filter. Now, add in the cost of dealing with a filter broken in such a way that the threads are jammed....

b&
 
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Don't forget to include the cost of shipping the damaged lens to Canon, with insurance, and the return shipping too in the case of a damaged lens. That's likely 1/2-2/3 of the cost of a high-quality filter right there. Just sayin'.
 
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TrumpetPower! said:
hhelmbold said:
I'll rather replace an expensive scratched UV filter than an expensive L series lens :)

Now, add in the cost of dealing with a filter broken in such a way that the threads are jammed....

b&

I was referring more to avoid the odd scratch :D If a filter gets damaged in a way that damages the threads as well... well then it's just major bad luck and you would have had a big repair bill with or without the filter ;D

But thanks for all the insight, and neuro, thanks for the post on the flare topic with and without the filter. I have decided for now to keep a filter handy and use it when I really need it. I figured the quality drop might not be as significant as a cracked or scratched lens.
 
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hhelmbold said:
I have decided for now to keep a filter handy and use it when I really need it. I figured the quality drop might not be as significant as a cracked or scratched lens.

Sounds like a good plan. But do use the lens hood, always, even with the filter in place. No, make that especially with the filter in place, because the hood will cut down on flare while the filter will add it. And, hey, you want to protect that expensive filter, don't you? So use a cheap plastic hood....

Cheers,

b&
 
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I hate Scott Bourne and everything he stands for with the exception of one thing...
Filters...

"why pay thousands of dollars for high quality optics only to put a $25 coaster in front of it?"

Not a direct quote but close enough...

I use filters on my most expensive glass, for protection.. and the sub $1000 stuff I just go commando.

I only use B+W's XS MRCs with the nano coating... they are the easiest to clean, the most scratch resistant, and optically superior to most other filters.

Lenses were designed to perform at their best with exactly the number of elements they are built with...
If you MUST add another element, don't skimp on the quality.
 
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neuroanatomist said:
The HMC isn't as good, and it's harder to clean. SHMC is optically better, still hard to clean. The only easy to clean Hoya is the HD line. Personally, I prefer B+W MRC.
I second this while the Hoya Pro1D are very good (I have several) they are a PITA to clean

these do a pretty good job of cleaning them though
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-shipping-worldwide-3-in1-Lens-Cleaning-Pen-Kit-for-Canon-Nikon-Sony-Pentax-/120881538577?pt=Digital_Camera_Accessories&hash=item1c2519e611

so if you get hoya grab a couple and keep in you bag
 
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neuroanatomist said:
Personally, I prefer B+W MRC.

I'm using B+W MRC filters for the reason that their reputation is better, so if you should happen to sell it it's worth more. Hoya Pro filters cost about the same and might be as good as B+W, but at least in Germany you can get them at every discount retailer, while you can only get B+W at better photo stores or online.

And I'm using clear protection filters, not UV because afaik you don't need them for digital - if I'm mistaken, please someone enlighten me.
 
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bycostello said:
why do you feel u need them, more glass less image quality.... protect your lens by keeping the lens hood on....

Well, I thought I understood, that with "L" lenses...you needed to put on a UV filter basically...to completely weather seal them?
 
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