Click said:
You can remote trigger with a 600 and/or ST-E3-RT with earlier bodies too if you use the cable SR-N3 Release Cable, I have one and use it on my pre 2012 1Ds MkIII's.
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New Canon Speedlites and ST-E3!
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You can remote trigger with a 600 and/or ST-E3-RT with earlier bodies too if you use the cable SR-N3 Release Cable, I have one and use it on my pre 2012 1Ds MkIII's.
privatebydesign said:
Vello makes a similar cable for 10 bucks rather than 70+ for the Canon part, too.
Jim
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@Lawliet: you mean for example the Fuji 100(s), like David Hobby is so excited about?
Another reason why I want this camera.....
Another reason why I want this camera.....
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Leaf shutters are not the answer to high speed sync, they give you maybe two stops, not even that at full power, before they become faster than the flash pulse. Electronic switch on switch off of the sensor is the way to get true high speed sync, but even then you are limited to your flashes duration, start using usable sun overpowering flash outputs and your durations are longer than your shutter speed.
The X100s gives a true full power sync around 1/800 sec (two stops), by the time it gets to 1/1000 sec it is acting as a second aperture and reducing your flash output. Once you go into reduced flash output HSS becomes equivalent.
The X100s gives a true full power sync around 1/800 sec (two stops), by the time it gets to 1/1000 sec it is acting as a second aperture and reducing your flash output. Once you go into reduced flash output HSS becomes equivalent.
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To put this into perspective: if I use a SK lens wide open, about the DOF of f/2 on small frame, and position my light about 10m from the model, I still get a t0.1 of 1/2200s - a decent margin faster then the 1/1600 of the shutter.
Lets pretend I use a more efficient LST or get closer to say 5m then we're at shorter then 1/4000, again t0.1.
Doesn't sound that unworkable, does it?
(NB: Nevada desert, or the Negev/Dead Sea as daytime locations)
Lets pretend I use a more efficient LST or get closer to say 5m then we're at shorter then 1/4000, again t0.1.
Doesn't sound that unworkable, does it?
(NB: Nevada desert, or the Negev/Dead Sea as daytime locations)
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Lawliet said:
That hasn't put anything in perspective. What flash are you using? What is your flash power and setting to give you a t.1 of 1/2200 because it isn't close to a "normal" flash at anything like full power, that would make your 10m distance as useful as a cigarette lighter.
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privatebydesign said:
A Move 1200L, at 300Ws set for fast flash duration while maintaining constant color temp. Industry standard.
Ganging up the 600EX in my bag at that t0,1 would net me about 400Ws, although w/o proper mounting one had to rely on their built in focus. The important part: With IGBT controlled flash the flash duration drops faster then the power emitted. Half the power allows for about 2 stops faster shutter speed, while HSS wastes more power then the changed exposure settings would net.
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Ah the confusion of a name. This being a Speedlite thread I assumed we were talking about on camera flashes, not $6,000 Broncolor heads and power packs.
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That might be a point if they'd behave differently.
Remember why flashguns are so popular with anything highspeed related? Because their t0,1 drops fast as you cut power a bit. Just because the ambient/flash ratio curve has a local minimum you can't assume that that this is the best possible use case.
Remember why flashguns are so popular with anything highspeed related? Because their t0,1 drops fast as you cut power a bit. Just because the ambient/flash ratio curve has a local minimum you can't assume that that this is the best possible use case.
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I well understand the practical application of IGBT circuitry.
Here is a test of three 600EX-RT's at 1/8000 sec at f8 with the brightest Florida sun in the frame and underexposed by about 5 stops.
At 1/8000 sec your $6,000 Broncolor is outputting 5-8 Ws.
Best IGBT bang for the buck if you are going the studio lights route, PCB Einsteins.
Here is a test of three 600EX-RT's at 1/8000 sec at f8 with the brightest Florida sun in the frame and underexposed by about 5 stops.
At 1/8000 sec your $6,000 Broncolor is outputting 5-8 Ws.
Best IGBT bang for the buck if you are going the studio lights route, PCB Einsteins.
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leaf shutters reach 1/1600 tops, the Fuji 1/4000...1/8000 is...interesting, you must be using a truly ancient 1Dprivatebydesign said:
You're just an order of magnitude off. That alone is more then 3 stops error, not to account for the additional two stops penalty for HSS mode on a flashgun. About f/32@2m(GN 64) with a 50°reflector.
Or 30-40 600EX to do the same job a single Move does, just at vastly different recycle times and battery capacity. So much for the viability of HSS.???
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Lawliet said:
Interesting. This is from the Move 1200L manual. I am sure Broncolor themselves are wrong.
I wasn't espousing the benefits, advantages or disadvantages of HSS, I was pointing out the limitations of leaf shutters in the context of a Canon Speedlites and ST-E3--RT thread.
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Not wrong, just assuming people are capable of reading the right column. Try the one relevant for shooting outdoors/in mixed light.privatebydesign said:
In a fatally flawed way...the limitation, based on SK's leaf shutter, costs about 1.5 stops of required power reduction but gains 5 stops via shutter speed - unless you're deliberately doing it wrong you increase the relative power tenfold. That's about the kind of limitation I'd like to see in every field.
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