5D Mark iii questions (mostly AF)

[JoaoPedro]

Hello

I'm updating my kit, that I use mostly on wedding and event photography.

I'm looking for high quality results while shooting high ISO (good to very good quality at 6400, and more than usable until one stop higher if needed): that is really my main concern (I don't have very fast primes nor the stabilized 70-200 zoom, so I need to shoot at 1/200 in poorly lit churches).

Coming from a 5D2, better AF performance would be nice, although I learned to get around the old 9 point AF system.

Just sold the 5D2 and the 7D and I'm considering a pair of 6D's or a 5D3.

They're different cameras, and they're priced differently =) Two 6D's cost the same as one 5D3, so I have to choose between a buying a kit (two bodies, for flexibility and, more important, backup! in case anything happens) or buying one camera alone (I still have a 550D/T2i, that sometimes I use for video) and adding another camera on the long run.

I've read and read about both cameras and I'm aware of the 6D limitations. What I'm trying to do here is to break a few of the 5D3 specific capabilities or specs and decide if they will work in such way that I find the camera is worth the extra money, or not. Henceforth, a have a few doubts:

- How many AF points can we register to access via MF-n button (or other)? Just one?

- What’s the current state of things regarding AF points illumination? AF is illuminated prior to focus or only after focus is achieved? (I was confused after reading several threads about last April's firmware update)

- Any issues regarding AF with the Tamron 24-70 VC? (I know there’s a thread about that, but it hasn’t been updated recently)

And that's all, for now.
Thanks for your help.

 

[Harry Muff]

I wasn't sure about moving from the 5D2 to the 5D3 given the specs, but I did it and can say it's a magical camera. It just feels and works so well. I just couldn't go back.




Buy one.

 

[cosminelfloricel]

You can register up to 3 points depending on the orientation of the camera.
The AF points does not light up when in Servo mode and sadly never will, but you can get used to that (you have to press the shutter to see what point you have selected)
And i have a friend who bought the tamrom that had front focus problems, and there is a problem with the focusing sensor on the MKIII. The service guys said that they can calibrate it to work only for the center point. The others still had issuses.

 

[JoaoPedro]

You can register up to 3 points depending on the orientation of the camera.

That means that when shooting horizontally we can register only one point, am I right?

The AF points does not light up when in Servo mode and sadly never will, but you can get used to that (you have to press the shutter to see what point you have selected).

I meant in ONE SHOT mode. It only lights after focus is achieved, correct?

And i have a friend who bought the tamrom that had front focus problems, and there is a problem with the focusing sensor on the MKIII. The service guys said that they can calibrate it to work only for the center point. The others still had issuses.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[tbob32]

In case you haven't seen this before, the autofocus guidebook for the 5d MKIII:

http://cpn.canon-europe.com/files/product/cameras/eos_5d_mark_iii/EOS_5D_Mark_III_AF_setting_guidebook.pdf

 

[JoaoPedro]

I had seen it, but that guide doesn't clearly state how many points we can register for each camera orientation. I can only assume that we can register one for horizontal and two for vertical shooting (one for each grip position). I would like to have at least two registered AF points in horizontal shooting. This is why I'm asking for your user experience.

 

[tbob32]

This article on Canon's site specifically says only one registered point:

http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/1dx_af_pts_article.htmlp

 

[RustyTheGeek]

I own both. One advantage that both bodies offer is an advanced sensor that will allow you to almost use a f/4 lens like a f/2.8 in low light. I bought a 5D3 and was disappointed with the poor low light AF performance that I bought it for. I then purchased and gravitated to the 6D because of its better low light AF. After the firmware update on the 5D3 in April, the AF functions better and I gravitate toward it. This is partially due to the fact that the small SunPak RD2000 flash that I use a lot doesn't work well on the 6D. (TTL issues with the 6D) But both bodies work great now. Eventually a firmware update will be out for the RD2000. I also shoot swimming pictures and the terrible indoor natatorium light plus need for shutter speed make me glad I have the 5D3 now. I'm wondering if a 70D would fill that need well enough to allow me to have a 6D + 70D combo and sell the 5D3. It's easy to buy this stuff and enjoy it but it's hard to sell. It's a great time to be a photographer with regard to great gear choices. You really can't go wrong.

My simple advice is this: If your primary use is wedding/events as you say, get one or two 6D bodies and don't look back. Invest in good lenses. In your line of work, there is a big advantage in carrying two bodies for greater versatility. If you think you will shoot anything sports or that needs faster FPS/AF, get a 5D3 or get one of each like I did. As many others say, you won't regret having a 5D3 but I will add that you will likely not regret a 6D either regardless of the naysayers. Esp with all the deals now. Get a 6D+24-105 Kit and enjoy. That is the best deal going by far. The 5D3 will always be there when you're ready.

 

[bigmag13]

I also shoot weddings and events with a two body set up. I came from a single 5d2 to owning a 5d3 along with the 5d2. when my 5d2 was taken from my car I quickly purchased a 6d to replace the stolen 5d2. BAD CHOICE for me! although I love that the IQ and ISO of the 6d had me not for want for great pics, the button orientation was the drawback for me. I was just too used to the 5d button lay out. My second camera ever was a 50d so with my nose to it's back for a few years the 5d systems layout became natural. hence, the toggle button along with the quick select dial allowed me more control in situations where i need to keep my eye in the viewfinder.

some points.

1-The dial of the 5d3 is more responsive to me. ( I think the 6d's dial is too plastic-ky and cheap and doesn't select my choices responsively.)

2- The 5d3 is WAY BETTER made! ( the little aluminum mode indicator disc fell off the 6d after about 3 weeks, and the rubber gripping started to peel after a month).

3-The ability to select AF points with an assuring toggle while looking thru the VF. ( I've missed a few shots using the 6d selector dial to change AF points).

4.-Which is a biggie, two card slots. I shoot J-peg and RAW. I use an Eye-Fi card to instant upload for display if the client adds that service to their package. ( I tried the Wi-Fi feature of the 6d during events and found that it's way to tedious to apply at events.)

In the end I sold the 6d and bought a second 5d3.

I think you should WORK THE BEST YOU CAN with what you can afford now, and try to get the gear that allows you to do the MOST for the type of work you will constantly do in the future.

 

[AudioGlenn]

I also shoot weddings and events with a two body set up. I came from a single 5d2 to owning a 5d3 along with the 5d2. when my 5d2 was taken from my car I quickly purchased a 6d to replace the stolen 5d2. BAD CHOICE for me! although I love that the IQ and ISO of the 6d had me not for want for great pics, the button orientation was the drawback for me. I was just too used to the 5d button lay out. My second camera ever was a 50d so with my nose to it's back for a few years the 5d systems layout became natural. hence, the toggle button along with the quick select dial allowed me more control in situations where i need to keep my eye in the viewfinder.

some points.

1-The dial of the 5d3 is more responsive to me. ( I think the 6d's dial is too plastic-ky and cheap and doesn't select my choices responsively.)

2- The 5d3 is WAY BETTER made! ( the little aluminum mode indicator disc fell off the 6d after about 3 weeks, and the rubber gripping started to peel after a month).

3-The ability to select AF points with an assuring toggle while looking thru the VF. ( I've missed a few shots using the 6d selector dial to change AF points).

4.-Which is a biggie, two card slots. I shoot J-peg and RAW. I use an Eye-Fi card to instant upload for display if the client adds that service to their package. ( I tried the Wi-Fi feature of the 6d during events and found that it's way to tedious to apply at events.)

In the end I sold the 6d and bought a second 5d3.

I think you should WORK THE BEST YOU CAN with what you can afford now, and try to get the gear that allows you to do the MOST for the type of work you will constantly do in the future.

I think this is great advice.

 

[JoaoPedro]

Thank you for the advises and opinions.

bigmag13, I don't mind shooting with single card cameras, all my previous cameras had only one card and fortunately I never had a problem. I realize one card failure is already too many, and I think that having two cards is an advantage, but for me it's not a buy or don't buy point (maybe if shooting single camera). I always always shoot with two bodies, what gives me a kind of redundant system: if one card happens to fail I don't lose everything (I also shoot with small cards).

With the rest I agree, but I think I can work my way around those weaknesses on the 6D.

RustyTheGeek, I think your bottom line is also my bottom line: do the best with what you can afford at the moment. And my business doesn't allow two 5D3's, which would be my choice, but allows two 6D's.

I value having two similar cameras, that is what I always desired when shooting with the 5D2 and 7D, because they weren't: the 7D wasn't usable above ISO 1600 and I ended up shooting interiors with only one camera, having to change lenses, etc etc etc. I like to have two of the same kind.

Since you have both, RustyTheGeek, in your view what are the 6D's weaknesses? I might say 1/4000 max. shutter speed is the only relevant one (when shooting wide open with f1.8 lenses). And about the AF, the outer points are the same as 5D2 or better?