Micro Adustment Issues

I thought I would have some Friday Fun -- so I tried to use FoCal to calibrate my new TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II. I set up my target perfectly, covered my eyepiece, and set it on a rock solid tripod. As it's a 5DIII, I had to set it up manually and I have adjust the AFMA values myself.

Something's not working, though. It won't AF at all, and I worry the USM motor might be fried. I guess I'll have to move on to calibrating my Zeiss lenses, but can someone help?
 
mackguyver said:
I thought I would have some Friday Fun -- so I tried to use FoCal to calibrate my new TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II. I set up my target perfectly, covered my eyepiece, and set it on a rock solid tripod. As it's a 5DIII, I had to set it up manually and I have adjust the AFMA values myself.

Something's not working, though. It won't AF at all, and I worry the USM motor might be fried. I guess I'll have to move on to calibrating my Zeiss lenses, but can someone help?

I might sound like an ass but, why do you need to AFMA a TS-E lens? Isn't this a manual focusing lens?
 
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takesome1 said:
J.R. said:
I might sound like an ass but, why do you need to AFMA a TS-E lens? Isn't this a manual focusing lens?

I am sure it has a motor to focus with inside of it. It may be stuck on this one. I would suggest turning the focus ring back and forth quickly and applying some WD 40 to see if it will shake the motor loose.
I'm kind of afraid to use WD-40 - maybe I'll try some graphite dust.
 
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mackguyver said:
takesome1 said:
J.R. said:
I might sound like an ass but, why do you need to AFMA a TS-E lens? Isn't this a manual focusing lens?

I am sure it has a motor to focus with inside of it. It may be stuck on this one. I would suggest turning the focus ring back and forth quickly and applying some WD 40 to see if it will shake the motor loose.
I'm kind of afraid to use WD-40 - maybe I'll try some graphite dust.

Excellent idea, the graphite will work its way in better.

From what I read on other threads you might try putting the lens on a crop body and see if it will focus. I am not sure what the advantage is but I do know it is 1.6 times better at it.
 
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takesome1 said:
J.R. said:
I might sound like an ass but, why do you need to AFMA a TS-E lens? Isn't this a manual focusing lens?

I am sure it has a motor to focus with inside of it. It may be stuck on this one. I would suggest turning the focus ring back and forth quickly and applying some WD 40 to see if it will shake the motor loose.

What focus motor ... The Canon website says that the drive system is manual.

The digital picture review website says this in its review-

All Canon TS-E lenses use good old fashion manual focus only. Manual focus at a wide aperture setting is easy to miss with the standard focusing screens shipping on Canon's current DSLRs. Alternative focusing screens (including at least one with parallel lines) are available to make this task easier. Canon's Angle Finder C would also help. Live View helps tremendously with this task. If the tilt and shift settings are both at their zero settings, the viewfinder focus indicator will illuminate (and the focus-achieved beep will sound if turned on) when manual focus is properly achieved. Shifting does not affect focus.

So if the lens has no AF, why AFMA?
 

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You're not operating the autofocus properly. Perform the following steps, in order:

1) Go to the nearest office supply store
2) Buy a medium point black Sharpie and a sheet of "Hello, My Name Is" stickers
3) Return home
4) On one of the stickers, use the Sharpie to write the word "AUTO"
5) Peel off the backing and place the sticker on your torso
6) Grasp the manual focus ring of the TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II and rotate it
7) You now have AUTO focus

Happy Friday!
 
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mackguyver said:
Okay, I'll relent. I was just trying to have some fun - see my "Friday Fun" at the beginning and the reference to Zeiss lenses at the end of my post.

Gotcha!

LOL ... I surmised as much but sometimes it is better to play along in the hope that I might just learn something new. Sorry to interrupt the 'Friday Fun' ;D
 
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neuroanatomist said:
You're not operating the autofocus properly. Perform the following steps, in order:

1) Go to the nearest office supply store
2) Buy a medium point black Sharpie and a sheet of "Hello, My Name Is" stickers
3) Return home
4) On one of the stickers, use the Sharpie to write the word "AUTO"
5) Peel off the backing and place the sticker on your torso
6) Grasp the manual focus ring of the TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II and rotate it
7) You now have AUTO focus

Happy Friday!

Being on the opposite side of the globe, my Friday is almost over ... have a great weekend.
 
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takesome1, neuro, and J.R. - thanks for the laughs and happy Friday / Weekend to all of you!

takesome1 said:
(Serious note, although I do not use it doesn't the 5D III have a confirmation light that works to indicate focus? On a manual lens I thought you could do a AFMA for the indicator.)
I suppose that's possible, but it sounds like way too much work!

neuroanatomist said:
You're not operating the autofocus properly. Perform the following steps, in order:

1) Go to the nearest office supply store
2) Buy a medium point black Sharpie and a sheet of "Hello, My Name Is" stickers
3) Return home
4) On one of the stickers, use the Sharpie to write the word "AUTO"
5) Peel off the backing and place the sticker on your torso
6) Grasp the manual focus ring of the TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II and rotate it
7) You now have AUTO focus

Happy Friday!
Is it okay to stick it on top of the "Kick Me" sign?

P.S. have I ever mentioned that my first name is Otto ;)
 
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mackguyver said:
I thought I would have some Friday Fun -- so I tried to use FoCal to calibrate my new TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II. I set up my target perfectly, covered my eyepiece, and set it on a rock solid tripod. As it's a 5DIII, I had to set it up manually and I have adjust the AFMA values myself.

Something's not working, though. It won't AF at all, and I worry the USM motor might be fried. I guess I'll have to move on to calibrating my Zeiss lenses, but can someone help?

As I recall, you can use FoCal Pro on a manual lens to check some of the problem areas such as sharpness at different apertures. Its one way to find out if there is a issue with a lens, if the curve is irregular, there is a problem.

You can take photos of the target manually focusing at each aperture and upload them into Focal for analysis. I'd have to reread the manual on this, its just from memory.
 
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Mt Spokane Photography said:
As I recall, you can use FoCal Pro on a manual lens to check some of the problem areas such as sharpness at different apertures. Its one way to find out if there is a issue with a lens, if the curve is irregular, there is a problem.

You can take photos of the target manually focusing at each aperture and upload them into Focal for analysis. I'd have to reread the manual on this, its just from memory.
That sounds right - I think you manually focus with LiveView and then it runs the aperture sharpness test. I suppose "Turbo" mode might work for the purpose takesome1 suggested. Really. I have no plans to use this lens for anything other than very slow, deliberate shooting with LiveView, but I guess it's possible to calibrate the confirmation light. I don't think I'll waste the time trying.
 
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mackguyver said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:
As I recall, you can use FoCal Pro on a manual lens to check some of the problem areas such as sharpness at different apertures. Its one way to find out if there is a issue with a lens, if the curve is irregular, there is a problem.

You can take photos of the target manually focusing at each aperture and upload them into Focal for analysis. I'd have to reread the manual on this, its just from memory.
That sounds right - I think you manually focus with LiveView and then it runs the aperture sharpness test. I suppose "Turbo" mode might work for the purpose takesome1 suggested. Really. I have no plans to use this lens for anything other than very slow, deliberate shooting with LiveView, but I guess it's possible to calibrate the confirmation light. I don't think I'll waste the time trying.
It might be one way to detect suspected decentering issues.
 
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