It's maybe unfortunate that we only have the choice between an excellent super-expensive RF 1,2/50 and a very average 1,8/50 STM.
What's missing is a 1,4/50 L , or, better, a 50 macro L.
So, for the time being, I'll keep using my optically superb 1969 M Summicron or the Zeiss 50 m Macro Planar.
My take on the video. Sharpish in the middle, wide open, very sharp at f/4. Corners take a while get sharp and extreme corners never do. Longitundinal CA until f/4. Bad coma in corners until f/2.8 or 4. Flare and ghosting with bright lights in frame. Extreme focus pulling. Seems to be a good 50mm f/4.Maybe post your take on it, instead of a random link to a YouTube video.
Fully agree, as long as it's an "L", it could even be an F2..I would quite like a 50mm f/1.8 L if they can make it as light and monstrously good as the Nikon Z version. A excellent f/1.8 L complements a f/1.2 L more than having a middle child.
Fully agree, as long as it's an "L", it could even be an F2..
Damn, that’s a shame about the eye-AF... how did the focus work when you were controlling it manually?I received my copy yesterday and I struggled to get sharp pictures out of it. I couldn't really tell if that was due to motion blur at 1/125th (both EFCS and ES) or the ISO 12800 I used. This morning I had slightly better results, but eye-AF seemed to reliably front focus. Then I added a hefty flash, a Godox V860IIC, and suddenly everything comes out crisp and sharp at 1/60th and 1/80th.
I need to do more tests, but I'm starting to suspect that the IBIS needs extra mass added to work properly. I wonder if adding the grip will do the trick. More and better testing is needed before I'm ready to blame the camera instead of my technique
It's sharper than my copy of the EF50 STM, but not by a lot.
Damn, that’s a shame about the eye-AF... how did the focus work when you were controlling it manually?
Well I hope you figure it out and it isn’t a problem with the lens. My EF 50mm 1.8 and EF 50mm 1.4 were both always so hit and miss with auto focus. I would hope Canon wouldn’t make the same mistake with the RF mount versionI haven't tried manual focus yet, but with the flash mounted AF seems to behave better as well. I haven't seen other people complaining about it, so I'm starting to think it's just me
Well it's better if you want something smaller and lighterHas anyone compared primes against a zoom at the same focal length? I'm wondering if buying a prime offers any advantages beyond a stop or so against an L zoom lens? It's hard for me to believe that a prime is better than my RF 24-70mm f/2.8 L?
I guess that pretty much matches my thinking. I've had several people tell me that I need to get a prime but I just can't see it. The only prime I'd consider would be an 85mm for portraits. Another thing about primes is that you are almost forced into hanging multiple cameras around your neck to be able to cover what you need. I remember the "good ole days" with 3 Canon F1 Motor Drives and I really don't miss that. If I can shoot a full length RAW shot of a model and then crop in to the point her eyelashes are tack sharp then that's good enough for me. If I run out of things to buy, I might consider another R5 body for my 15-35mm f/2.8L and keep it in my wagon for the few times I need something wider than 24mm but that's hard to justify. Thanks for you input. Happy New Year!Well it's better if you want something smaller and lighter
When comparing budget prime lenses to top end L zooms like the 24-70/2.8II it's swings and roundabouts; where one might be slightly better than the other swapping and changing depending on area of the frame, f stop etc. I'd say generally speaking, if comparing the RF50/1.8 to your 24-70/2.8 the zoom might be a tiny bit sharper in the centre at the f/2.8 to 5.6 mark, but slightly worse in the extreme corners at the f/8 to 11 mark. Higher end primes will match or exceed the 24-70/2.8II in the centre and spank it in the extreme corners.