Soft edge to all of my photos???
- Thread starter kat.hayes
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I am using a studio light with a shutter of 1/250. Please pardon my ignorance, I am new to all of this. I have been using these settings for many shots I took yesterday while practicing with the light and I did not have this issue. Perhaps my settings were slightly different and I didn't realize it? What is the issue?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Try repeating the photos using different shooter speeds, and see if it makes any difference.
Using 5D Mark III, the maximum flash sync speed is 1/250. If you use faster speed, there is a reason for a dark part in the photo with flash.
Using 5D Mark III, the maximum flash sync speed is 1/250. If you use faster speed, there is a reason for a dark part in the photo with flash.
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kat.hayes said:
No issue, your camera sync speed is not 1/250, try 1/160 and the shutter shadow will go away.
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I just did some tests.
- The shadow appears at 1/250, much more pronounced at 1/320
- it seems to be gone at 1/200 (though I am only viewing on my viewfinder so I can't tell if there are any subtle remnant shadows there), at 1/160 it seems gone
1. Is this a universal regardless of camera guideline to keep the shutter slower than 1/250 or is it just with the 5DM3?
2. Does this also apply when shooting with a flash?
3. If using a studio light or a flash and not trying to get ambient light should I just always set the shutter at 1/200 or 1/160 and keep it there to avoid this? Is there a need to go slower than this?
Thanks so much, I thought I had some issue with my shutter!!!
- The shadow appears at 1/250, much more pronounced at 1/320
- it seems to be gone at 1/200 (though I am only viewing on my viewfinder so I can't tell if there are any subtle remnant shadows there), at 1/160 it seems gone
1. Is this a universal regardless of camera guideline to keep the shutter slower than 1/250 or is it just with the 5DM3?
2. Does this also apply when shooting with a flash?
3. If using a studio light or a flash and not trying to get ambient light should I just always set the shutter at 1/200 or 1/160 and keep it there to avoid this? Is there a need to go slower than this?
Thanks so much, I thought I had some issue with my shutter!!!
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1/ All cameras have a sin speed after which the shadow will appear, the 1 series have a 1/250 sync speed, the 5D MkIII I thought was 1/200 but if the lights are 'slow' you can get the shadow slower, some cameras the sync speed is even lower, back in the day of magnesium bulbs 1/60 was standard!kat.hayes said:
2/ If the flash doesn't have a higher sync mode, HSS or HS or some variant, yes. Higher speeds are only achievable with flashes that trick the system in some way.
3/ yes normally I take a dark image in the beginning, ie no lights just the ambient to check how much, if at all, the ambient is contributing to the image. You can use ND filters to darken the ambient if you need slower shutter speeds, but you will need high flash power settings.
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I've pasted in the specification for the 5D MK III below. The X-Sync of 1/200 means that a faster shutter speed may not be synchronized with your flash. There is some variability in lights and the timing of their flash, so to be safe, 1/160 max unless you really need 1/200.kat.hayes said:
Type Vertical-travel, mechanical, focal-plane shutter with all speeds electronically-controlled
Shutter Speeds 1/8000 to 30 sec., bulb (Total shutter speed range. Available range varies by shooting mode.)
X-sync at 1/200 sec.
Shutter Release Soft-touch electromagnetic release
Self Timer 10-sec. or 2-sec. delay
Shutter Lag Time
1) During SW-1 ON, time lag between SW-2 ON and start of exposure:
- Approx. 0.059 sec. (With the shutter-release time lag is shortened with the Custom Function, it will be approx. 0.036 sec.)
2) Time lag between simultaneous SW-1/SW-2 ON and start of exposure: Approx. 0.2 sec.
- Time lag with the aperture stopped down by 3 stops or less. Excludes AF operation time.
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Focal plane shutters like on the 5D3 have two curtains. The first curtain moves (i.e. opens) to expose the sensor to light from the lens. The second curtain then closes to block light from reaching the lens. At moderate shutter speeds there is a time when the entire sensor is exposed. You want the flash to fire when the whole sensor is exposed otherwise you get some type of shadow from one of the shutter curtains. At high shutter speeds the 2nd curtain chases the 1st very closely so only a slit is open at any instant. The X-sync speed is the fastest shutter speed for which the entire sensor surface is uncovered long enough for the flash to fire and expose the whole sensor at once. Using the rated X-sync speed requires the flash to be ready to fire the instant the camera signals it to flash. A slightly slower shutter speed just allows a little margin to compensate for flash response delays.
At much slower shutter speeds some cameras provide the option to sync the flash off the 1st curtain (normal operation) or to fire the flash just before the 2nd curtain begins to close. If the image includes moving light sources (like car headlights or tail lights) the effect of 1st curtain vs. 2nd curtain can be quite different.
At much slower shutter speeds some cameras provide the option to sync the flash off the 1st curtain (normal operation) or to fire the flash just before the 2nd curtain begins to close. If the image includes moving light sources (like car headlights or tail lights) the effect of 1st curtain vs. 2nd curtain can be quite different.
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Yep, as everyone said that is the very basics of flash photography. Focal plane shutters have a maximum synchronization speed (contrary to central shutters that can use all available speeds). So with the 5D series you are limited to 1/200th of a second (which by the way is a bit primitive considering Nikon could synchronize it's FE2 with 1/250th in 1983). However, if you use studio flashes, especially triggered by radio, I would limit my speed to 1/160th or lower. I personally limit myself to 1/125th when working in this configuration.
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privatebydesign said:
Surely this. Shoot faster than sync (without HSS engaged) and this will happen.
See 1/200s vs. 1/250s example here:
https://digital-photography-school.com/understand-flash-sync-speed-so-you-dont-sink-your-photo-shoot/
(This article is off on the specifics: all Canons are not remotely 1/200 sync! Check your manual or TDP)
- A
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