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Messages - tolusina

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1
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Can I copy camera pics direct to a tablet?
« on: October 22, 2014, 08:47:01 AM »
.....
Appologies if I'm not picking you up correctly here but when I plug my 7D into my PC (USB cable) it just appears in Explorer and I can copy files, no software installed. The only annoyance is that it's USB2.

Regards

Really? Nothing installed from the EOS Solutions disc? No Lightroom, Photoshop or any other cataloging type software?
I briefly had a Rebel years back, did not show in explorer without software, same with my current 6D.

I'm intrigued to learn that the 7D shows as a removable drive. Can you copy other, non-image files to the camera, use the camera like a very expensive thumb drive?
Canon, what's up with that? Some models do, others don't??

2
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Can I copy camera pics direct to a tablet?
« on: October 21, 2014, 11:19:08 PM »
Thanks for your responses guys.

What I need it for is so that when I am doing a job for a customer out in the field, I can download the camera shots directly into my tablet, preferably with a wire as wireless is too slow for high res images, then I can select the photos I want to transfer and then copy them onto a USB key or onto their phone, as well as having a copy for myself.

What I really wanted to know is if I put the appropriate cable into my camera and my tablet, will they talk to each other or not, without using other 3rd party software.
Just for this thread, I've been trying various combinations of 6D to ASUS tablet and 6D to Samsung Galaxy S4.

All wired attempts required a USB Host (OTG) adapter cable, mine is a genuine Samsung found in store at Best Buy.

Camera to device only worked using a 3rd party app, doesn't meet your desired spec.

Card reader worked flawlessly, transparently using the built into Samsung 'My Files' app.
Connect the OTG cable, Samsung device shows a 'USB connector connected' notification, that notification then goes away.
Connect card reader, insert card from camera, notification shows 'USB mass storage device connected', the Samsung 'My Files' app opens immediately and by itself showing the contents of the root of the card.
Browse to the files you want to transfer, 'My Files' will show a 'Gallery' thumbnail and the file name, a long press brings up a context menu relative to that file, or checking the box brings up a context menu at the top right of the app.
Check box select multiple files of your choice, use the app's context menu to move or copy, I suggest you choose copy.
Tap 'My Files' at the top left of the app twice to get to the level where you choose 'Device Storage', 'SD Memory Card' or 'UsbDriveA', drill down to wherever you want to go, paste where you like.
 
Files are now copied from the camera's card to the device.

Don't just yank the card at this point.
Instead, pull down the status bar, see the 'USB Mass storage connected' notification'? 'Select to remove USB mass storage safely'.

Open the Samsung 'Gallery' app, start by creating a new album from within the app, sort and select the photos you want to transfer to your client, copy them to the newly created album from within the 'Gallery' app.
 
Back to the OTG cable, connect an appropriate card reader or a thumb drive, reverse the browse/copy/paste procedure described above.
---
It took longer to write and probably to read than it takes to do.
--
TLDR:
Connect OTG adapter.
Connect card reader or thumb drive.
Browse/copy/paste files from connected device to device internal or SD Card storage.
Remove connected device safely.
In Gallery, sort and copy to a new album.
Connect another card or thumb drive.
Browse/copy/paste newly created album files from device internal or SD Card storage to connected device.
Safely disconnect.
Hand to client.
Profit.

___________
edit---
If your field work includes tripod work with considered exposure and careful composition, you will be blown away with delight if you do so tethered to your tab through DSLR Controller. DSLR Controller is worth a whole lot more than the USD $8 cost.
While you'll be blown away with delight, your client will be extremely impressed with your mad skillz, wonder why you charge so little.
Seriously.
Tethering, especially to the general public, looks (and is) rather high tech and exotic, very very professional.
---
Next job, quote higher.
Mo' profit.

---edit
__________
edit the 2nd--------

Ok, now I'm on to an anti Canon rant, one of many I have available, I find Canon is just lame beyond description in many ways, still I buy and shoot Canon because among my far fewer Nikon rant topics, Nikon has a couple of absolute deal killers that make Nikon's superiority over Canon in many ways absolutely irrelevant. Nikon wins all the battles but quits just in time for Canon to win the war and my $$.
---
Anyway, plug a Nikon, Olympus, probably Sony into a USB socket on a PC, there's your device as an external drive, no drivers or software needed.
I just plugged one of my old Nikons directly into my Sammy G4 via USB OTG, same thing, root of the Nikon's SD Card just popped up on my home screen in My Files ready for browse/copy/paste.
 
In contrast, plug a Canon into a PC, the OS screams back I ain't gots no drivers for dis ting, whatcha 'spec me to do now boss, huh?
So you run the software disc that came with the camera, now you can use Zoom Browser or whatever to copy from your directly connected Canon. No way possible to write anything back to the camera installed card, none.
Considering this 'feature' of Canons, there's no reasonable reason to expect a phone to access a Canon directly without 3rd party software.
 
Many Canon shooters prefer using a card reader for these very reasons. The card shows as a removable drive no matter what device the reader is connected to, simply use Windows Explorer, Finder, My Files, Nautilus, whatever file browser your OS uses by default, drag/drop/copy/paste all work normally.
 
So, if you care not for tethering but only want to transfer files around, Canons, when directly connected, suck to the point of fail at the task, use a card reader.
 
Nikons etc. are so transparent as removable drives, any type file can be transferred directly from PC to cabled camera whether the camera can do anything with the files or not. Nikon with a USB cable can serve exactly like a thumb drive and/or a card reader.
Canons just cannot do this.
 
Sorry Nikon, you excel at this topic. But you are the only camera maker with flocked, dust generating and collecting mirror boxes, that's one deal killer.

--- edit the 2nd


 
 
 
.
 

3
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Can I copy camera pics direct to a tablet?
« on: October 21, 2014, 04:44:08 AM »
Just tried downloading .CR2s and .jpgs from 6D to Asus tablet, pretty straightforward and easy.
I can't say regarding video as I've zero interest.
I used DSLR Controller from Google Play, USD $7.99.
Transferring images is just one of many features of DSLR Controller, its primary function is tethered remote control where it fairly well excels.
You'll need a USB Host adapter, also known as USB OTG (on the go) connected to your tab, that will connect to your camera's standard USB cable.
Samsung's Host adapter cable runs around USD $20,00, similar can be found on Amazon for around USD $3.
 
If you've used Canon's free EOS Remote app for Android, you'll leave that freebie behind once you try DSLR Controller. Never mind, I see EOS Remote is only for 6D and 70D over WiFi.
DSLR Controller can connect over WiFi or USB to most recent Canon DSLRs.

4
Software & Accessories / Re: Windows 7 install
« on: October 18, 2014, 11:30:57 AM »
 
There is a tutorial on Seven Forums for the only correct way to set up a SSD + HDD and move the "User" folders off of the C: drive when the OS is installed.......

Now you tell me. Where where you a year ago when I needed this info, huh?

 

"tolusina" did something wrong, do not follow his/her advice......

Sure enough I did do something wrong, otherwise I'd be totally happy with the results. Do not follow my procedure, it fairly well stinks. That said, the goal I was after, had I achieved it, is delightful to work with, it worked great on 2K and XP.

 
...... Programs do NOT save to "My Documents" by default. They save to a folder called "Program Files" or "Program Files (x86)", typically located on C:. "x86" is the folder for 32 bit programs.....

Here's some misunderstanding, I'll take my part of the blame for writing less than concisely, you can share some, unless of course I'm totally wrong.
 
Programs, by default Install to "Program Files" or "Program Files (x86)", typically located on C:\, most always in a sub folder in Program Files.
Programs, once installed and running, by default, will then Save files created or modified by those programs to sub folders in My Documents.

 
I have, in the past, used a Program Files installation location on other than the C:\ drive, seemed a clever thing at the time, long term there's no advantage I can see.
I now leave Program Files right in the root of C:\, exactly where Widows wants them.

 
I do see many significant advantages to saving files I create to someplace other than C:\ such as a second drive. That's what I was after with My Documents on a second drive, should I have moved “User\me” instead?

 
…....
All other folders (My Documents, My pictures, My Music, My Videos. My Downloads) can be easily relocated at any time to another HDD in W7, quickly and painlessly without registry edits or tricks during the OS install. You can install multiple HDD's and put "My Pictures" on a HDD all by itself if you want to. There are many places to find info on how to do this, including Seven Forums.

When the relocation is done properly, the folder locations will not be on the C: drive when you click "Properties" of the folder locations.....

Yes, YES, this is what I was after that didn't work in 7 the same as it did in 2K and XP.
I guess some quality time on the SevenForums is in my future.

 

 
.....As far as backups go, multiple HDD's does not make it any easier. If you lose the OS, you still lose all of the links to the program files stored elsewhere. You need backup images of all HDD's to do a restore.....

Yes, er, no, er, I must sound confused and confusing by now.
Yes, Program installs to other than C:\ is needlessly complex with no advantage. Yes, I agree, no, don't do that with Programs.
I've done Ghost images in the past. They did restore quite easily and cleanly. The problem I found with doing that was most all programs had had subsequent updates since the original image was created, I found it preferable to reinstall the OS from scratch along with the latest versions of programs. I never Ghosted anything but a fresh and unused install though often versions with and without programs.

 
 
......However, places like the "My Pictures" folder on another HDD can be accessed by using the HDD as a giant jump drive on another computer, as long as the drive itself didn't fail.

This, and, should a Windows reinstall on C:\ be needed sometime in the future, your My Pictures, My Documents etc. will be safe if on a drive other than C:\.
As danski has indicated, Programs installed off C:\ will be borked should Windows need to be re-installed, they'll be effectively just as borked if on C:\, since they'll need re-installation no matter what, keep it simple and install programs to C:\.
 
.......including the slipstream install and partitioning.…..

I've slipstreamed 2K and at least one Service Pack, XP with both SP2 and SP3, worked well.
Should be no need to even think about slipstreaming for the OP though, If he buys Windows 7 SP1, Service Pack 1  is already slipstreamed in by M$.

I used to go partition crazy, no longer see much need or want. File sizes for .CR2s, TIFFs, videos and such are large enough to quickly fill smaller partitions, massive back up hard drives are downright inexpensive.
 
....I would strongly suggest spending some time over here: http://www.sevenforums.com/ before taking much of the computer advice you are given on this forum. ….

And that ^ sounds like the best advice in this thread yet. I'm sure going to head there. I expect a lot more experience and experience in depth with be found there, I certainly hope for more coherence.

 

 

 

5
..... I want it to be one of the high grade graphics design/photography displays like the NEC PAW line or Eizo ColorEdge. .....
Be warned, I have a PAW, the clean, crisp and brilliant colors are so brilliant they almost hurt to look at, a price in the quest for accuracy.

6
Software & Accessories / Re: Windows 7 install
« on: October 17, 2014, 08:02:38 PM »
Thanks a lot everyone.  That is really a lot of great information and some great tips.  It will come in handy at build time.
During the initial Win 7 install, leave the machine disconnected from the internet until you are satisfied with the initial configuration. Only then should you connect up, register Windows and first run Windows update.

During my build, I installed three times. The first was making the partitioning mistake, finding that it was a mistake, then starting over.

The second install error I made was when I failed at implementing a My Documents symbolic link manipulation that I had used with ease during Windows 2000 and XP installs.
In 2K and XP, I installed the OS to the primary drive as normal, then connected and formatted a second drive.
On the second drive, I then created a New Folder that I cleverly re-named My Documents.
Back on the desktop, I right clicked the My Documents shortcut (which is actually a symbolic link), selected Properties, there I re-directed the My Documents shortcut to point to the new My Documents folder on the second drive.
The reason I went through all this My Documents stuff is that most all programs will, by default, save to My Documents. When set up properly, it works (apparently) seamlessly from within most programs' save dialogue.
WIN 7 didn't work the same way. I expected My Music, My Photos and the rest of the default My Documents folders to transfer right over, didn't work that way and I failed at figuring out how to cleanly correct my errors.
So I started a third time correcting the My Documents trick the best I could figure though I'm still not happy with the way it plays.
 
Expect to install Classic Shell.

 


7
It is a POS!  Who cares about a 5K display if it is only sRGB

What is the colour space of the Internet and almost every computer screen? sRGB.
This ^ from the guy so thoroughly dissatisfied with Canon camera's current DR???
You desire (but cannot afford) the ultimate in DR but are also satisfied with limited gamut?

Understand that my comment above does not express any personal desire or lack of desire or opinion, it simply reflects the facts with respect to computer displays.
Your disclaimer appears to be a load of bull.

8
Software & Accessories / Re: Hello Windows 10
« on: October 17, 2014, 06:26:16 PM »
Surely UFRaw or RawTherapee can handle 5D3 files, no? The big downside in Linux is the lack of 16-bit final stage editing. GIMP is nearly there though....
Really GIMP, hurry up already, would ya please? I use GIMP on WIN, 16 bit GIMP might finally get me to the Linux camp.
On WIN, UFRaw has always left me wanting, RawTherapee looks excellent in comparison though I do need to spend more time with it, just found it recently.

9
Software & Accessories / Re: Windows 7 install
« on: October 17, 2014, 06:19:10 PM »
...
One possible pitfall is partition size - you probably don't want one large partition, but a system and data one. Im that case don't chose a system partition size too small. Good luck!

This is one I forgot about. I think the suggested minimum size we went with, at the company I was with, were 30GB for the System partition. I would say increase that to, possibly, 50-100GB. Profiles, and installed programs have a tendency to make it eat up the System partition quite easily over the years.
Yikes!
On my current build, on first Win 7 install run, I tried partitioning the primary drive though I forget just how big a partition I tried, Once that install run completed, the C:\ partition was already mostly full and I hadn't yet installed any programs.
Back to the beginning I went, deleted the partition, used the entire 256GB SSD for C:\.
Currently, C:\ with WIN 7 and what I consider a reasonable software load takes 105GB.
My data resides on E:\, a 1TD HD, about 200GB and on F:\, another 256 GB SSD, there's about 100GB there.
 
I suggest you use at least two physical drives, a 250 GB or so SSD for the primary C:\ drive, a second and maybe a third for your files as budget allows.
HDs give the most capacity for the money, SSDs allow faster access to your files.
 
Just to clarify, your files, your data includes anything you create, documents, photographs, videos, whatever.
Consider keeping your files and data on a separate partition or drive as an enabler of tidy housekeeping. Should you ever need to re-install the OS, all your files are safe away from the OS' files. Moving all your files and data en mass to another machine is as simple as physically moving the drive they are stored on to another machine.
Separating files and data in this manner makes for easy back ups too.
 
Hey Harv,

If memory serves, I believe it took Win 7 to install on my new build, with a 250 GB Samsung 840 SSD, 16GB of RAM and an i5 3570K Intel CPU less than 15 minutes to install.  My nephew and I were doing simultaneous builds and windows installed so fast that I actually ran the install a 2nd time cause I didn't believe it    :o .   

I've installed Windows OS going back to Windows 2000 on servers and desktops and I have to say, it was the fastest OS install I've ever done.

No pitfalls per se -- locating and installing the drivers and running Windows Update takes longer than actually installing the OS.  You should be able to find videos, etc. on doing a clean install. 

I believe Newegg has a video, also check Tom's hardware (http://www.tomshardware.com)and Motherboards.org (http://www.motherboards.org) as well as MaximumPC (http://www.maximumpc.com) for PC build articles.






Can anyone give me an idea how long it will take to do a 'clean' install of Windows 7 ???  It will be installed on a new machine with an Intel i7 4790 4GHz processor and 16GB of DDR3 RAM.

Also, are there any potential pitfalls to be on the lookout for ???

Thanks.
I'm thinking it was about 20 minutes to install here, an inconsequential difference. Compared to earlier WIN installs, it was indeed fast.
In comparison, the first run of Windows update seemed an eternity, go have dinner or something.
 
The links quoted above are all good indeed, I found ASUS had excellent build videos too, I suspect most other MB manufacturers do too.
 



10
It is a POS!  Who cares about a 5K display if it is only sRGB

What is the colour space of the Internet and almost every computer screen? sRGB.
This ^ from the guy so thoroughly dissatisfied with Canon camera's current DR???
You desire (but cannot afford) the ultimate in DR but are also satisfied with limited gamut?

12
Photography Technique / Re: DoF question
« on: October 14, 2014, 04:07:57 PM »
.... I don't know if GIFs work here.......

 
Nice gif!

13
...

I work in IT ….

…......Install the service pack and run Windows update.  The drivers should be updated before you attempt any application installs.

If you can swing it, get yourself a 250 GB SSD and install Windows 7 on it and all your applications.  You will be surprised how fast Win 7 install on a SSD drive.  Save your HDD as a data drive, ….

I built a PC and helped my nephew build one for himself about a year ago.  Sourced all the parts except for the motherboard, cpu and power supply from newegg.com.  I live about 2 hrs drive from the S.F. bay area and found a good price on a package deal (motherboard, CPU and PS) from a local computer store in Santa Clara:

http://www.microcenter.com/default.aspx?

It's actually fun to build a computer  .  Really.  Just allow yourself about 8 hrs. if its your first build. 
I believe newegg had some DIY videos at one time on YouTube as well as their website......

 
For those of us not in IT, it's difficult to keep up with the state of the art, well, for me anyway, I suspect for many others as well.
Having not kept up to speed, the most difficult and time consuming part of a new PC build is researching component selection, I spent months.
I reverse showroomed my build, that is, I did a lot of research on line, final purchase was made in a retail store.

I chose ASUS for the motherboard based on features and prior experience with the brand, read a lot of reviews.

I found NewEgg very helpful, many individual product pages have links to the corresponding Manufacturer's product page(s).

I ended up purchasing at MicroCenter as there's one not too far away from my current location in MI.
I've since placed some other orders with NewEgg.
When I lived in the Monterey Bay area of California I built a couple of PCs from Fry's, another from Central Computers in Santa Clara as they specialize in ASUS and only a few other quality motherboard brands. Perhaps Central is who lilmsmaggie is thinking of?

I've been quite satisfied dealing with NewEgg, Fry's, Central and MicroCenter with some qualifications to that statement.

NewEgg's web site has a ton of information which is very very helpful but I found no way to get any sort of human assistance in purchasing decisions at least by phone, I didn't even want to try on-line chat on the matter. Contrast with B&H phone ordering where staff understands your questions and has (or gets) answers.
Fry's are Walmart huge, getting knowledgeable help is hit or miss. Best if you know what you want going in.
Central and Micro Center are much smaller and more personal, generally more knowledgeable than at Fry's. Still helps if you have a good idea what you want going in.
I would buy from any of those four again.

The actual physical build time was maybe two hours on my latest, earlier builds took about an hour with simpler gear.
Minimal tools are needed, a small Phillips, magnetic is good, small needle nose or large tweezers, a cutter of some sort to open packaging and trim ties, good light and maybe a magnifier.
OS install on modern hardware was pretty quick, maybe 20 minutes or so.
Service pack installation should not be needed, just buy Windows & SP1 and the SP is already integrated in.
Drivers come with motherboards and some other components, often there are updated versions on line.
Installation time of other programs varies widely according to program selection.

Instead of a single 250GB SSD I used two, one for the OS and programs, the second for files. I added a   1TB HD for back up, an optical bay mounted slot loader bay for additional and redundant back up.
- - -
 
Choosing components is the part I found most difficult.

I started with the desire to have a fully color controlled work flow for stills.
I decided on a wide gamut monitor with an integrated calibration solution from NEC. DisplayPort was the video interface that sounded most attractive so that choice narrowed motherboard and processor choices.
I have no interest in shooting video so I went with on board graphics instead of a discrete video card. Modern on board graphics are very capable.

I'm fussy about memory, I'll choose only from the motherboard manufacturer's recommendations and max out from there, same for the processor.

I like excess capacity from the power supply and modular connections to keep the inside of the case tidy, both for aesthetics and air flow.

Choose a case for fans and air flow, drive mounts and then appearance to taste.
 
Noctua makes exquisitely beautiful fans and coolers though the colors are bland to say the least.
Whatever brand of fans and coolers you choose, if the motherboard supports Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) fans, spend for those.
Stock processor coolers are barely adequate, two steps up is plenty, no need to go nuts.
 
The final bit of color management is a printer/ink/paper profiler.
Calibrate the monitor when it's well warmed up with minimized ambient light, profile the printer/ink/paper combination to be used, soft proof in Lightroom or whatever using the desired profile and minimized ambient light, what you then see on your screen will match the printer output very closely.


 

 

14

Instead of buying a new PC, you can simply buy a decent SSD, install as an additional drive in your computer and setup dual boot, so you can choose which to load.   Be sure when doing the OS install you disconnect the other drives. I would then have 3 drives in your PC, Vista boot, 8.1 boot then a high capacity drive for data. You can then slowly migrate stuff to the new OS as you wish. 


+1
 ;D


Quote
Adobe cloud is a bargain. 10 bucks a month or 120 per year for LR and PS.  If I bought packaged software it would cost me years of subscriptions anyway, and then I'd miss out on all those free upgrades along the way or I'd need to pay extra each time.

-1
 :(

(that said, as others have mentioned, LR is still available without the nasty rental model (note that I refuse to call it CC or cloud, since it's nothing to do with distributed computing, oops I mean 'cloud' computing. They simply went to a rental model. Nothing more and nothing less. Although it's mostly less  ;D .))
While I too like the concept of adding an SSD and installing Windows 7, I suggest you first visit the Microsoft Windows 7 Upgrade Advisor Page, and run the software available there, see if the rest of your current hardware is up to snuff.

Based on my personal experience, I consider 4GB memory an absolute minimum requirement for Windows 7, 8GB or 16GB is desirable, I'm using 32GB so as to future proof this machine as best I can considering the unknow-ability of future developments.
As I write this with little open but the browser and a few programs that start themselves at boot, the system is using 3.38GB of memory.
Shortly after installing Windows 7 SP1, I ran the system update giving it free reign to update everything it saw fit. Memory use went up to 10 or 11GB during that update. Had the system had less memory available it would have fallen to a swap file to make up the difference which would have excruciatingly extended an already length process.

15
I feel a phone cam sneer coming on, sorry in advance, hokay?
 
I, for one, welcome the plethora of phone cams and their massive proliferation, everyone has one everywhere, no scene escapes.
And then facebook, instagram, Flickr and the rest become inundated with phone cam output, um, er, ugh.
 
All this phone cam output makes the output from larger and far more capable cameras look all the more impressive in comparison. 
Thank you phone togs for making photographers look so competent.
 
Time lapse, done, played, cliched. Less than 1% of the time lapse I've seen in the last year has been worth the click to view it. The links posted above? I want my clicks back.

Instagram, thank you, please keep it up.
Canon, thank you even more, please keep on.

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