July 24, 2014, 10:06:54 PM

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Messages - tolusina

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Good video work, but I prefer Jeff Cable's work with the Phantom drone:


He will be doing a B&H presentation next month on flying the Phantom.
There's a tough call to make.
I'm seriously a Jeff Cable fan, love his work ethic, his work and his presentations.
San Francisco is far and away my most favoritest city.
And, yup, I too like the youtube vid you've posted, I especially like the segment rising from behind trees on Angel Island to reveal the Oakland-Bay Bridge.
But I'd 100% rather be up in and shooting from a real helicopter over S.F. than shooting R.C. model footage.

Photography Technique / Re: Black & White
« on: July 23, 2014, 05:21:32 AM »
Shoot RAW + .jpg in monochrome and you'll have both.

Your on camera review and the .jpgs will be monochrome reflecting both the software engineers' intent as well as your own.

The RAW files will have full color information so that you can tweak in post to exactly suit your tastes and artistic vision.

Software & Accessories / Re: Help..
« on: July 23, 2014, 02:09:48 AM »
After clicking the .dmg it creates a drive.....

Creates a drive? Must be a MAC thing, ignore my incredulity.

…...It's on the card, in the right spot(root)...

Is the IT that's in the right spot (root) of the card 7D000205.FIR ?

Software & Accessories / Re: Help..
« on: July 23, 2014, 12:52:06 AM »

Double checking, the file you copied to the root of your freshly formatted CF card, it should be named
The Mac download file is named eos7d-v205-mac.dmg, the Windows version is eos7d-v205-win.zip.

Both eos7d-v205-mac.dmg and eos7d-v205-win.zip are compressed files for each platform that must be uncompressed to find the 7D000205.FIR file inside.

The eos7d-v205-mac.dmg file should self extract it's contents, the 7D000205.FIR that the camera needs is a couple levels deep.
I don't use anything Apple, I'm in the “Friends don’t let friends use Apple” camp, so I cannot offer specifics as to how to get to the needed 7D000205.FIR file, but on Windows 7 using 7zip (7zip is an open source Windows file compression and decompression program) I was able to open and find the 7D000205.FIR file inside both the downloaded eos7d-v205-mac.dmg and eos7d-v205-win.zip files.

I imagine that you just double click on the eos7d-v205-mac.dmg file, hopefully you are offered options as to exactly where the eos7d-v205-mac.dmg file should be decompressed so that you can easily find and copy the needed 7D000205.FIR file, then paste it to the root of the CF card.
If, after double clicking eos7d-v205-mac.dmg you cannot easily find the 7D000205.FIR file, there must be a find or search function in Apple's Finder, use that to find 7D000205.FIR, copy, paste and reboot the camera, follow the rest of the instructions.
The 7D000205.FIR file IS the firmware update file. Neither Mac nor Windows has any idea what to do with the .FIR file extension, they need only to be able to copy or move that .FIR file to the root of your CF card where your 7D does indeed know exactly what to do with that file.
Do not simply rename the eos7d-v205-mac.dmg to 7D000205.FIR, that should not work at all.

....make sure my planes are all parallel, kill all ambient light, shoot at about f/8 with mirror lockup, either live view or shoot tethered to fine tune focus......

To square your tripod mounted camera to the viewing surface, lay a mirror flat on that viewing surface. When the center focus point in the viewfinder is centered in the reflection of the lens, you're squared up.
With some lenses, you'll be able to see a refection of your own eye out through the finder, prism and camera's mirror to the viewing surface mirror and back again when all is squared.
The petapixel page that Don Haines linked mentions setting a custom white balance, yes indeed, do that.
I've not tried the rest of those petapixel techniques but they all sound great. I especially like the one about focusing on the film's grain though I'm unclear why each subsequent shot would need to be re-focused.
When I last DSLR'd film, I had no live view, no tethering, no extension tubes, a marginal PC. Your posting here inspires me to give it another go.
If you stitch multiple frames together, another free stitching program is Microsoft's ICE, very easy to use, can take .cr2s, output tiffs and several other easily configured options.

Software & Accessories / Re: laptop for tethered shooting?
« on: July 20, 2014, 08:29:08 PM »
.....missing the point with DSLR controller. usually the point of shooting tethered is to ….
2. have a hard drive that the images can be stored on immediately outside of the CF card. DSLR Controller doesn't solve those issues.....

I disagree on this second point, or else I'm missing this second point.
I'm not using a tethered tablet to store my entire catalog.
I have only 47 apps downloaded onto my ASUS MeMO Pad™ FHD 10 with 32GB internal storage, as I write this, 23.5GB of that internal storage is available.
This ASUS tablet accepts up to 64GB mircoSD cards, I'm using a 32GB card, 22Gb are currently free. These microSD cards easily pop in and out of an external slot much like our camera's CF/SD cards, they are incredibly tiny and so easy to carry many. MicroSd cards are not as fast as CF cards but speed isn't a priority for me when tethered.
Between the tab's internal and removable microSD storage I have plenty storage for a shoot.

.... usually the point of shooting tethered is to 1. have a large screen to preview images....

This ASUS has a 10.1" LED Backlight WUXGA (1920x1200) Screen. It's marvelous for 10X live viewing.
- - -
I chose this tablet primarily for it's screen, it's main reason to be purchased was to tether my 6D.
My usage pretty much mirrors the OP's stated intent and quite economically too.
Take another look at DSLR Controller’s capabilities and features, the list is quite impressive.
Mind, I'm not trying to sell anyone on this particular ASUS, it's just the one I chose. There are many to choose from.
Also, as need or situation dictates, I also use my smart phone for tethering, same app, a single app purchase price and it runs on all my androids.

Another feature I've found but isn't listed is shutter count.
- - -
Regarding BBF and DSLR Controller’s balking when BBF is set; I've found pretty much all my base hand held settings differ from my tethered settings so I set all my base tethered settings including shutter button focusing as a Custom Shooting Mode, all I now need to remember is to rotate the mode dial to 'C1' before tethering. Of course I usually forget this little step and have to re-connect.
- - -
Do you have to turn off back button focus settings with CamRanger? I'm intrigued for macro shooting.

Can't say about CamRanger, but DSLR Controller rocks for macro shooting, stacked shooting is built in, no touch the camera's BBF, all focusing is done remotely.
From what little I know of CamRanger, it's the thing if you need wireless tethering over a distance.
If cabled tethering will serve, DSLR Controller is less hardware intensive, plug it in and it just works.

1D X Sample Images / Re: Any Thing shot with a 1Dx
« on: July 20, 2014, 07:35:50 PM »

Joe Buissink .......... only ever uses P mode.
Wanna buy a bridge?

......he uses P mode 100% of the time.
P mode and Program Shift are two different things.
Your statement that he uses P mode 100% of the time is not supported by the work displayed on his web site.
…..Ever watch him shoot? I have....
Really? A $10k+ Wedding Photographer just let you puppy along so you could watch his every finger twitch as he worked? He mirrored his LCD to your smart phone so you could see every setting?
That scenario sounds as credible as a camera forum poster who presents as an authority yet never posts his own examples.

There are many bridges. Any preferences?

1D X Sample Images / Re: Any Thing shot with a 1Dx
« on: July 20, 2014, 11:25:11 AM »

Joe Buissink .......... only ever uses P mode.
Wanna buy a bridge?

Software & Accessories / Re: laptop for tethered shooting?
« on: July 19, 2014, 01:26:41 PM »
DSLR Controller on most recent Android phones and tablets.
You'll need to add an inexpensive USB OTG Host cable between your Canon's USB cable and the Android device, the app automatically launches as soon as a powered on and compatible Canon is connected.
DSLR Controller is loaded with capabilities, features.
There are several users here, I've not seen any complaints posted yet.

Lenses / Re: Camera setup for dental clinic
« on: July 17, 2014, 12:11:48 PM »
...They probably have crop bodies because no one told them the difference between crop and FF....

.....I wouldn't look at cost too much as you can write off all this gear.

Yes, this ^^.
I'll start by stating that I know absolutely nothing about medical imaging.
I do know that I'd really prefer my medical professional not make surgical decisions based on photographs with fun house mirror type distortions.
To avoid visual compression or fish eye effects one must use a near normal or natural focal length, that natural or normal focal length being one that's as close as possible the sensor's (or film's) diagonal.
I looked up specs for a 7D that uses a typically sized Canon 1.6 crop factor sensor with dimensions of 22.3 x 14.9 mm, diagonal of that sensor is approximately 27mm.
I'm unaware of any macro lenses with a focal length near 27mm.
Diagonal of a full frame 36 x 24mm sensor is approximately 43mm.

On a B&H listing of Canon mount macro lenses

there is a Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro Lens

a Sigma Normal 50mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro Autofocus Lens

and a Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro Photo Lens

All with focal lengths fairly close to the 43mm full frame diagonal, for sure a lot closer to the 43mm full frame diagonal than the 27mm crop diagonal.
 - - -
Note that the Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens and the Tamron G005 SP AF60mm f/2.0 Di II LD 1:1 Macro Lens are both for APS-C crop sensor bodies and cannot be used on full frame bodies.
- - -
Regarding concerns about how close to a patient you'll need to be with these shorter focal lengths, um, you will soon be close enough as to be in the patient's mouth when actually working, is closeness of a camera really relevant?
Regarding LED ring lights, I've made and used several. As they were not real bright, a steady camera and subject are both helpful. They did indeed cast even and mostly shadowless light.
Being continuous light, you get a very good idea what your photo will look like through the finder or live view before triggering the shutter unlike with flash where you find out after.
This might be a consideration towards minimizing patient discomfort by avoiding multiple flash discharges as you dial in the exposure.
Then too, likely, once you've a small bit of experience you'll know what settings work and will need but a single flash exposure.

Canon General / Re: Colombia
« on: July 14, 2014, 04:30:30 AM »
If visiting a Third World Country causes concern, consider not taking and flaunting your First World extravagances.
Take only one, un-gripped body, mount a 40mm pancake and call it good.
Hang the camera from a Kevlar UPstrap or a stainless cable reinforced Carrysafe, no big gear bag, only a small belt looped accessory bag.
I consider essential accessories to include a battery charger, spare battery, spare memory cards, a CPL, an infrared remote.
If you want some minimal support, a weighted string with a clasp, a 1/4" - 20 eye bolt screwed into the tripod socket for the string's clasp.
I'd leave laptop and tablet home, use a smartphone for tethering, appropriate cables.
You may just find traveling and shooting gear light and minimal to be liberating and exhilarating, you may just find fresh creativity without the aids of multiple focal lengths.

Animal Kingdom / Re: Animals at Night
« on: July 12, 2014, 08:14:52 PM »
... I think I would prefer this blue look.......
I most likely would prefer this blue look too. As I posted above, it is quite dramatic and places the subject well (under black light).
What I am suggesting, since black light is so radically different from 'normal' light, setting white balance to black light will produce very different results, those results dramatically demonstrate the effects of setting a custom white balance.
Again, results from a black light white balance setting may not be as pleasing as AWB, the exercise is highly worthwhile just as an exercise, you'll at least start becoming adept at moving away from AWB in other circumstances if and when needed.
To set, shoot a gray card or something white under whatever light you wish the camera to think of as white.
Don't know what model you shoot, on 6D, 3rd menu from left, scroll down to 'Custom White Balance'. > Set > only compatible images displayed. Scroll left or right to your reference photo, hit the set button. That puts you back to the 3rd from left menu, scroll up one to 'White Balance" > set > scroll to the custom icon.
Once a custom WB has been set, go back into the menus or use the Q button to activate it or any other of the WB options.

You're essentially lying to the camera about what is white and giving the camera no choice but to comply.
Do give it a try, the capability to set and use customizations like this are among the reasons to buy and use DSLRs rather than accept smart phone limitations.
WB and Custom WB are DSLR power tools and good to know how (and when) to use.

Canon General / Re: Dragonfly, Powered by Canon Lenses
« on: July 12, 2014, 06:33:30 PM »
A couple questions come to mind;
Are Canon engineers going like "whoa, I had no idea our stuff could do that!!"

Are any astronomers building similar arrays using Zeiss, Nikon, Sony, Pentax or any other off the shelf glass?

I chatted with one of the guys on this project ....
What do such arrays use for image recording?

Lenses / Re: Polarizer filter on the 70-200 2.8
« on: July 12, 2014, 10:31:22 AM »
Any time and every time I take my camera I bring a circular polarizer.

Animal Kingdom / Re: Animals at Night
« on: July 12, 2014, 10:25:04 AM »
.......with black lights to find them (since scorpions fluoresce under black light).

Canon 5D3, Sigma 85 1.4 lens, 1/80 second at f3.2, iso 3200, tripod.

What, if anything, did you do with/about white balance under black light?
I've shot under black light only a few times, auto WB produces a result similar or same as yours here, setting a custom white balance with the black light aimed at a gray card, sheet of paper, white tee shirt or what have you produces a very different result.

Mind, I'm not criticizing how you've shot here, it's actually quite dramatic and certainly places the subject well. Just saying you will find setting custom WB interesting for sure, though the look may be on the clinical side, therefore less eye pleasing. I do think it's worth a look.
Last time I set a black light WB, I intentionally left that WB set and then shot under florescents, boy and howdy that came out wrong but sure was interesting and educational. You'll likely only do that once, but that once is worth doing.

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