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Messages - phoyager

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Canon General / Re: Is it Genuine? Canon LP-E6 Battery [SOLVED]
« on: September 10, 2013, 07:49:24 AM »
code on the top right of the blue.
If you are talking about the 2INR19/50 then that is smth my "Made in China" is missing. (And also not to be found on the others.)

I am also going to contact my guy at Canon Australia and suss it out.
Yep, I guess asking Canon would be the best solution.

I guess it isn't 'Solved' just yet. Sorry guys jumped the gun.
Please keep this thread updated.
Thanks in advance,

Canon General / Re: Is it Genuine? Canon LP-E6 Battery [SOLVED]
« on: September 09, 2013, 07:34:18 PM »
My authentic LP-E6s read "cell made in Japan, further processed in China."
I checked six eight of my LP-E6 and while 6 have "Cell made in Japan, further processed in China." imprinted on the sticker, 2 just state "Made in China". I consider all of my LP-E6 genuine.

The thread now has a [SOLVED] label. Would be nice if you would tell us how you decided to proceed.

Edit: When I wrote this post it was late and I first checked only the LP-E6 I had at hand (6); only later I additionally checked the two that were in my camera, but forgot to correct the total.

Lenses / Re: Need daily lens suggestion
« on: August 20, 2013, 04:17:41 PM »
What does a used 5DMkii vs new 7d do here? Am I crazy? Can I do sports with the 5D?
IMO you should stop this thought right now in his tracks, 'cause I doubt that you will be very happy with a 5D Mk II. While it's certainly possible to shoot nearly anything with any camera, the 5D2 certainly wouldn't be what I would choose to shoot sport, maybe with the exception of chess and Tai chi. ;)
I'm not saying that the 5D2 is a bad camera, but it wasn't designed for such use. Downsides are: low FPS and a AF which is far from ideal for fast moving objects and you would be more or less stuck with the center AF-point. Of course, if you know the sport very well and are able to anticipate the moment to release the shutter you can take excellent pictures, but the amount of keepers will be significantly lower than with a 7D. The full frame is another 'downside' if it comes to sports, 'cause you don't have the crop-factor and will need longer and more expensive lenses. 70-200 on a 1.6 APS-C results in framing equivalent to 112-320mm while on FF it's just 70-200. With a 7D you will also warmly welcome the AF with its 19 AF fields and sophisticated options.

It think you are pretty much set with the 7D and the 70-200 for the sports stuff. So that leaves you with the question what else you're going to do with the camera.

Lot's of advice here based on people's own preferences but I'm not clear yet what your other use may look like. Do you have a need for wide angle (such as architecture, landscape, etc)? Do you have any use for fast lenses (and to me that means control over depth of field and not so much being able to make pictures in the dark...)? Will you try to shoot portraits and if so what is your preferred focal length for that? Again, how important is good "bokeh" for you? Is weight and size a concern? Do you want to get into flash photography or not at all?

So in other words I'd be very careful with some of the blanket statements here about what constitutes "general purpose" use. Everyone has a very different view of that I suppose. And some of this is always a compromise - especially with the limitations of a cropped sensor if you answered "yes" to any of the questions above...

I personally would always go with the fastest lens I could afford in the desired focal range. But that's me and may be completely irrelevant for your preferences.

Thank you for the insight.

Being outdoors and shooting the sports is priority #1. However, I do know that once I get into the gear I will want to explore other options. Landscape, portraits, etc. When not shooting sports, I do know that I want to take photos that pop and have that "gooey" feeling when not in focus.

Please be gentle, I'm coming over from a very old Nikon D70 with bad glass.
+1 on what 7enderbender wrote.

For other stuff than sports the 5D2 has its upsides (better image quality at low ISO, 'sexier' depth of field), but since sport is your #1 priority and money is of relevance, I would - again - suggest that you go with the 7D. Otherwise I probably would suggest a 1D4 or a 5D3.
With the 7D you will have no problem "exploring other options" and can decide in a year or two if you want to change the body. Well, this brings us - again - to the topic of the sustainability of lenses... ;) Changing lanes is easier (and cheaper) if you don't have to consider the cost of new glass.  ;)
If you want to play with portraits, the 50/1.8 wouldn't be a bad choice, 'cause it's a rather cheap but not bad lens from what I hear (sorry, no personal experience with it.)
On the other hand if you want to try landscapes you probably should think about investing into a wide angle lens like to 10-22 or the Sigma 10-20.

farmdwg - one thing that I found that helps me decide is to go to 500px.com and type in the camera and lens in the search bar.   It gives me an idea of what the kit can do. [...] you can see the IQ in those situations.
Personally I would be very careful! Postprocessing can do A LOT to a image and this is much more valid when we are talking about 'online'-resolutions. It's a quick job to bring a bad image, be it because of the photogs skills, the lens and/or the camera, to a point where it looks fabulous, as long as viewed only on a screen at low resolution. Online galleries are swampy terrain when it comes to judge a photog or some gear.

Lenses / Re: Need daily lens suggestion
« on: August 20, 2013, 09:58:20 AM »
About to pull the trigger on a 7d body as I need the speed for football and baseball games.
Good cam for this but be aware of the not-so-nice ISO performance.
I have access to a 70-200 2.8 IS for this which is great,
If sport is your primary area of interest you will probably want to upgrade to a 300 soon. The new 120-300 from Sigma would be an option, 'cause colleagues say it's optically close to the old 70-200/2.8; just the AF is a bit slower.

I need some suggestions on what I should get for my daily lens.

Canon 24-105 f/4L IS
From my personal experience a very nice bread-and-butter lens. Sturdy with [depending on the specific sample of this lens] good to pretty-nice image quality. On the short end it's a bit long when used with a 1.6 crop (field of view 38mm) but the crop gives it quite a bit more reach on the long end, which from my experience is many times nice to have.
The f4 might be a bit slow, but it's not too bad unless you work a lot under low-light conditions without the ability to add flash. In regards to your implicit question about low light, 2.8 and a 50mm I would say that most of the time you will want to have smth faster than 2.8 when working in low light while rather needing a wider lens, especially on crop. Therefor I wouldn't so much aim for a 50/1.4 but rather a Sigma 35/1.4 or a Canon 24/1.4.

Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 DI VC
I bought this lens and while the image quality is really good it drove me crazy that everything works contrary to what Canon implements. Might be a lesser problem when you have only 1 Body and don't change lenses a lot, but it's still smth you should try out [by renting the lens] before you spit out the cash. My lens is looking for a new owner after just a few days of use....

Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8
I never owned or used this lens and while it's certainly an option I wonder if it's worth the money. Especially if you take into account that it's EF-S and therefor useless in case you ever upgrade to APS-H (1DMkIV) or Full Frame.

Canon 24-70 f/4L IS
Have no experience with this lens. But despite the presumably better image quality when compared to the 24-105 I would still choose the latter because of the 105mm vs. 70.

If I were you, I would buy the 24-105. I bought mine in 2006 and it's still working on a daily base despite many harsh working conditions like rain, dust, expeditionary off-road, riots and war. Not all of these lenses offer the same IQ and it was a difficult moment, when I had to return a borrowed 24-105 which, as I found out, was quite a bit sharper than mine.
FWIW, in all these years I had three repairs: First one in early 2012 when it wouldn't zoom correctly, one in the end of 2012 because the lens developed a severe Zoom-creep (from wear) and another one in 2012 when I decided to replace the rubber-sealing on the mount during a C&C because it looked like been attacked by mice...  ::)

Canon General / Re: Thrown in deep waters... throw me buoys pls..
« on: July 28, 2013, 01:15:45 PM »
I think you already got some great advise, but let me add some points that come to my mind:
- The hint in regard to the various brands and models is imo very valid and it's good that you already downloaded some manuals. In your position I would probably try to get for an hour to some shop and gain first hand experience on several models of the two, three major brands. And if you have a way to get in touch with the participants now, then think about a 'happy to meet you folks in just a few days' eMail. There I would also include the kind request that they bring their own manuals, in case they think they will need help with their cams.
- One of the best advises I got from a trainer was to always criticize in a positive way or at least in a 3:1 ratio.
- Also you can always help them by asking their opinion: "What do you think is the best aspect of your picture?" "What would you think could have been done better?"
- While you own them and you should be the leader it doesn't means that you can't throw in some anecdotes of moments where you struggled or failed.
- Take a moment and try to google up some 'In my bag' posts of wedding photographers. I' m not talking about the gear they use but of the stuff they bring to a wedding for the bride, the groom and the guests. A lot of these things would be things I would bring too. E.g. some headache-pills, some tissue, insect repellent, some lens cleaning microfiber (there are so cheap ones, that you can hand them as a present, who cares for 1 buck?), some band-aides, one or two multi-outlet powerstrips, maybe one or two spare plug-adapters, ......... and many other things.
If you are not only the teacher but also the problem-solver and helpful hand, it will give you a much better standing with your group and there will certainly be quite a lot of "I forgot ...", "I ran out of ...", "I need ..." moments.
- Don't let their gear fool you! Within the group of well settled people is a significant amount of Noobs with high[est] quality gear. Ppl I met: Mrs. Dr. med who ownes a 1Dx, some nice L glass and shoots on high-ISO in P-Mode pics of her newborn. Or Mr. Executive who started with a 1DsIII, then switched to D3 and after establishing that it's just a piece of junk finally(?) settled for a Phase to shoot his holiday snapshots.
- On the first day, during the greeting-session, ask them what they expect from the tour, what they would like to learn.
- Half way into the time you could ask them how satisfied they are and towards the end have a ups-and-downs session. What they liked with you, what don't.
- Finally, if you ask me what to teach them there would be some positions on my list, marked in red:
-- A good picture creates emotion in the person looking at it; a bad picture only revives memories an the person that took that picture.
-- 'Only show your best.' Rather show 10 good pictures instead of torturing your friend,guest,whoever with 100 bad or mediocre pictures.
-- How to hold a camera
-- Portrait orientation is not only for portraits (or landscape sometimes sucks.)
-- Why a tripod is not an obsolete piece of equipment and why the $$$ for a better one are a good investment

Hope at least some points were useful for you.

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