October 23, 2014, 02:02:29 AM

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Messages - Maui5150

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Don't forget this also has a built in 1.5x converter, in essence a 75 - 1500mm lens.

That is quite a bit of ZOOOOOOOOMMMMM

I sort of thought this was a given.

150K is a general guideline.  Can be frustrating if it fails early, but no idea how camera has been treated or cared for.  Shock and drops, even if the camera is protected in a padded case/bag can play havoc on the insides. 

Send it in to CPS and send a note with it.  Maybe you will have to pay for it, maybe you won't.  Also depends what Canon finds, like if their is some metal debris that has been kicking around then they may change you.  Depends on what is considered wear, or what is abuse. 

My car may have a 100K mile warranty, but if I never change the oil and drive it until it is dry, something tells me I am paying for the new engine. 

Reviews / Re: Gizmodo reviews the Canon 7D Mark II
« on: October 21, 2014, 11:57:02 AM »
I think when you look at some of these reviews and reviewers, you have to understand what the PURPOSE and Audience of a camera is.   It is evident that while many people can general judge something, whether those judgements have any real value remains to be seen.

The 7D MK II is targeted as a Prosumer / Pro Crop camera. 

If I am shooting sports, I want the 1Dx... well now with the 7D MK II, The pros may want this as a backup, just as for the Prosumer level a few years ago the 5D MK II and the 7D was a solid combo for the more economically minded.

While Nikon has raised the bar as of late in some of their FF offerings, their crop offerings are MEH!   Comparing the 7D MK II to the 7100, only think Nikon has is a few extra MP, other than that, the Canon has twice the FPS and probably 10x with buffer.  AF?  Canon.  Low-Light?  Canon.  Weather sealing and construction?  Canon. 

I like the video of my 5D MK III but will probably wind up using the 7D MK II more for the AF feature, especially with the customizable rack focus features.

I think there may be some nice video capable P&S and Camera phones out there, but having watched the Canon "Cello" one thing became apparent, just how nice using a ton of lenses is.  Not as helpful if you are doing single-camera continuous shooting like some events, etc, but in terms of producing a "film"  the number of quality lenses and their contribution to a NLE environment can't be understated.

The 7D MK II appears to be well on its way to being the King of the Crops.  Does make me excited because I do have a feeling the Canon has 3 other beasts in the wings, a high MP, and upgrades to the 1Dx and the 5D MK III.  I think these will be substantial improvements and also highlighting a trend of more deliberate products.  With Nikon there seems to be faster turnover and more of what the hell did I just buy.  D800 was quickly replaced with the D810, I would have been pissed to have my camera mothballed in just over a year.  The D750 seems solid, and only took Nikon 2+ years to compete with the 5D MK III, but I have a feeling it is about to be upstaged.

The 7D MK II seems to be a serious beast when it comes to not only AF, but the serious amount of not only fow fast it shoots, but how long it shoots... Seriously... Grind up some Viagra, Crystal Meth and swirl that concoction and go on a serious romp.  This is a hard pounding, gear-jamming, balls-to-the-wall buffer.

That also tells me Canon has been taking a serious look at bottle necks and some of their core architecture is being improved. 

I expect in the next 3 Canon releases we will be seeing similarly improved buffers as well.  I am expecting RAW bursts to be over 5sec, and looking at the JPG burst on the 7D MK II... a minute and a half?  That is insane

Lighting / Re: Yongnuo YN600EX-RT at Photokina?
« on: October 21, 2014, 07:46:15 AM »
These are available now and are around $180 a piece. 

I did pick up their YN-E3-RT last year and have been waiting on these for a year.  Definitely please with the price.  Seems like from what I heard, results are mixed with the YN-E3-RT.  While it has focus beam assist, seems like the alignment is slightly off so only upper focus points work, and on crop sensor, you are pretty much SOL, though with the 7D MK II and wider spread, may not be as bad.  Then again, while the Yongnuo's implementation is shoddy, it is 100% better than Canon's lack of implementation, so I guess this is one of those, if it works for you and your situation, it is a bonus. 

My guess is that Yongnuo took a lot of heat for issues with the YN-E3-RT and have been working on improving the 600-EX-Rt... Though it is not surprising this long fabled gun finally shows up to market, there is a 3rd player in the market who has another 600 clone coming out so still waiting on hearing if Yongnuo got their act together on this, or if they rushed to market to try and fight off the competition. 

Canon General / Re: Does "Banding" exist
« on: October 20, 2014, 01:06:09 PM »
On my 15'' Retina display I see bending on the "picture" above. Anyone else too?

Of course you will.  Macs I believe are only capable of producting sRGB or less for colors.  The image posted is has 10-bit color.  You need a display and graphics card capable of 1.07 Billion colors

OSX only supports 24-bit color (8-bit per channel)

This is why the display is a POS. 

If you look at some of the Samsung, ASUS and even Dell which I dislike, they may be 4K displays, but they will display 1 Billion plus colors.

So what will be a more accurate picture?

A 5K display (more pixels) that only has 16.7 Million colors (less colors) or a 4K display that has 1 Billion plus colors. 

To my original point.  I am sure banding does occur, but how much of the "perceived" banding is because the monitors and screens being used are not capable of properly displaying the colors captured in the raw file?

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Yongnuo YN600EX-RT now available for $186
« on: October 17, 2014, 09:25:51 PM »
I seriously have to consider this if the quality is semi-decent.  I know it took Yongnuo a year to release so hopefully they realized they were rushing products to market like the YN-e3-Rt and that was hurting them and they really have made improvements. 

Canon General / Does "Banding" exist
« on: October 17, 2014, 11:36:45 AM »
the new crappy iMac 5K display got me thinking.

This iMac is 8-bit color (16.7 million) where monitors like the one I use are 1.07 Billion (10-bit color per channel)

To achieve an environment capable of 1 Billion plus colors, you need more than a monitor, you need a capable video card as well as you need applications capable of running 30-bit vs the standard 24.  some earlier versions of Photoshop, for example were not 30-bit capable

A simple way of seeing if you are capable of 30-bit are images like this

My monitor at work shows banding... at home it is crisp and clean gradient that is as smooth as butter.

Got me thinking.  Always hear about the 5d MK III has banding, the Nikon D810 has banding... on and on. 

Is this banding on the sensor, or like, in the image above, is it the LCD screen on back of camera, or even that pricey monitor that only handles 8-bits per channel

Not saying that issues may not exist, but would be curious if when people are doing reviews, pixel peeping images and the like, more quantitatively environmental variables were specified. 

I have really seen no issues with banding with my 5D MK III, then again, most of the time I am in a 30-bit environment

Just food for thought

It is a POS!  Who cares about a 5K display if it is only sRGB

What is the colour space of the Internet and almost every computer screen? sRGB.

Funny.  Most of the professionals I know are using wide gamut monitors.

Most of the people out there don't use color calibration either.

In the end you must decide what you value.

Does it matter?

I would much rather shoot in RAW and work with a full color calibrated atmosphere and see the difference of color depths, than work in a downscaled sRGB environment. 

And yes, I do down scale and convert the images I post to the web to the sRGB color space, but the base of all I do is Adobe RGB.

I would much prefer having a 4K Asus ART monitor with 1.07 Billion colors than a 5K iMac Retina with 16.7 Million colors.

color and color depth are kind important

And why would I want an sRGB monitor????

It is a POS!  Who cares about a 5K display if it is only sRGB

"5120‑by‑2880 resolution with support for millions of colors"

Millions?  What about BILLIONS... like 1.07 Billion give or take to be exact.

This is the problem I see with most 4K or 4K plus displays, lack of color depth. 

The ASUS PB287Q may only be a 4K monitor but it handles 60x more colors.

All you hear people harp on is Dynamic Range... Dynamic Range... And then you throw away a BILLION colors?

I am sure it is a "nice" display, and it is a "big" foot print.  But I like colors... Lots of colors.

And even if you do get one of the few 1 Billion+ display monitors that are out there, so still need a card that can handle that as well. 

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: So what makes a camera a "pro" camera?
« on: October 14, 2014, 02:03:58 PM »
Build, Performance, Features.

A solid photographer can take great photos with crap equipment and a n00b can screw up even the best of top end gear.

A pro camera is often more metal allow than plastic and has better weather sealing. 

Photography Technique / Re: Noise in 5D III - Concern or my fault?
« on: October 14, 2014, 09:56:51 AM »
My understanding is for some of the "expansion" of the ISO, the lower is pushed and the upper is pulled, and the pulled ones, because under exposed, are cleaner. You are losing some DR, but you gt less noise, so if that is your concern, 160 will produce less noise than 100 or 200.

Generally, "pulling" means just digitally(!) moving the data to the left side of the histogram, the "analog" sensor setting is exactly the same as in the base iso it's "pulled" from. It's all bout Canon's very high read noise that drowns dynamic range on lower iso (hence the flat nearly flag dr curve at the start != Nikon exmor). But "160 better than 100" is an urban legend, at least with the camera models I have (60d 18mp sensor & 6d).

Read this where I've asked the Magic Lantern people about this, and their answers are in-depth: "Do have iso160-multiples have more dr & less noise?" http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=9867.0

Part of my argument is made in there.  See the following graph:

The graph shows at least for the 5D MK III and the 7D:
ISO 160 < 1SO 100 < ISO 125
ISO 320 < 1SO 200 < ISO 250
ISO 640 < 1SO 400 < ISO 500

I read the thread, and there seems to be mixed confusion. 

It is fairly easy to test.  Do same shooting for a longer exposure with lens cap on, and increase ISO and compare image noise seen:

I think this may have been the link I have originally found:


Lenses / Re: Do date codes matter?
« on: October 14, 2014, 08:41:43 AM »
Only thing date code matters for is how old the lens is.  most of the time it is inconsequential, but can give you some idea,  especially for lenses that have been around for a while, just how long your lens may have been out there. 

For most lenses, new, it does not matter much, though if you buy a lens that has been sitting on a shelf for 2 years, you use it a few times and sell it, a buyer may wonder why the lens you say is 6 months old and shot twice has a 3 year old date code.  , bets to keep your receipts handy.

For other lenses, it can be important.  Take the long in the tooth 100 - 400.  This lens has been around for 16 years and while an L lens, the push - pull mechanism seems to be a dust magnet.  I would give a 10 year old version of this lens a much thorough looking over for dust and internal issues than say a 1 year old version. 

I ended up purchasing at MicroCenter

If there is a Microcenter near you, highly recommend them, as well if you put a little time in and figure out what you want for hardware, you can save a ton if you time and wait. 

If you do build (which is really not that tough) DON'T SKIMP on the power supply.  Easily one of the most important components... Smooth, clean, constant power is the lifeblood of the system.  I never go below 600W and generally go more 800W or more. 

You will pay more building versus buying, but the machine you build, if you build it right will run longer and stronger and much faster because you hand picked the best components.

Order of Importance:

1)  MB
2)  Memory
3)  Power Supply
4)  CPU
5)  SSD
6)  Case
7)  Other HDs

Really Memory and Power Supply are probably 1 and 2, but MB is the base and having right number of slots, connections, etc can be important.  I have seen a lot of great mother boards that only have a few SATA connections (like 3 or 4) where 6 can be prime.  Always nice to be able to add another drive or bay, especially if you want to have more than one Blu-Ray.

6 may seem excessive, but for me.

1)  SSD
2)  Blu-Ray
3)  Main Program HD (3 TB)
4)  Archives HD (3 TB)  (Music, TV shows, Streamed Content, Back-ups, Install files, etc)
5)  Hot-Swap Bay
6)  External HD array (6 TB ) - Photos

#5 is one of my faves - allows me to just throw in a 3TB or larger drive and treat like a flash drive for either back up of off site storage of content. 

I probably could combine 3 and 4, but I have a ton of FLAC music, like 300GB of AC/DC concerts and video alone.  I am also old school and like to have 20% or more free space on my drives

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