January 25, 2015, 05:29:13 PM

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Messages - surapon

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Thousand Thanks to My Dear teachers and My dear Friends.
Now, I can understand the difference UNITS of Light per Camera Flash and Studio Flash/ Lights now.
Yes, As Hobby, I do not think I will need 2 of 500W Studio Light = $ 1,200X 2, US Dollars soon, Just Put  1, 2 or 3 Flashes on the 72 Inches Silver/ White Reflected Umbrellas, and That should be enough for Big Group Photos at the longer distant from Flashes.
Have a Great Weekend, Sir/ Madame.

Dear Surapon,

It is good to know that multiple lights even if set together in a single modifier, won't produce the same shadow as a single more powerful head. With multiple lights, you are likely to be able to see as many distinct shadows as thete are flashes. Sometimes it might look wrong and unnatural, sometimes its not a problem. This might not be that bad for large group photos, but might matter for headshots.

Thanks you, Sir, Dear Mr. IMG_0001 .
Your Logic  are Right on The Target About the Shadows of 2-3 flashes in one big umbrella., Yes, Sir, I will try and Report back to you, in next 2 -3 weeks.
Have a great Sunday.

Lenses / Re: Prime vs zoom for landscape?
« on: Today at 10:29:44 AM »
Dear Friends.
I will stick with my old-Cheapo , But Great Lens  17-40 mm ( 75%) to take the beautiful photos of Landscape, But  another 25% I use TS-E 24 MM. MK II for great photos of Panorama ( 3-4 Photos =1 Photo)



Thousand Thanks to My Dear teachers and My dear Friends.
Now, I can understand the difference UNITS of Light per Camera Flash and Studio Flash/ Lights now.
Yes, As Hobby, I do not think I will need 2 of 500W Studio Light = $ 1,200X 2, US Dollars soon, Just Put  1, 2 or 3 Flashes on the 72 Inches Silver/ White Reflected Umbrellas, and That should be enough for Big Group Photos at the longer distant from Flashes.
Have a Great Weekend, Sir/ Madame.

EOS Bodies / Re: 50mp Cameras Coming in March [CR1]
« on: January 24, 2015, 11:52:14 AM »
Explanation please? What is a low pass filter in this context? What is it for and if it's necessary, why build a camera without one? Is it the same as an anti-aliasing filter (another term I don't understand...)
Yes, the low-pass filter is the same as AA filter. These filters aims to avoid moiré and aliasing, which occur because of the repetitive format of pixels (all the same size and shape).

In ultra-high resolution cameras with low quality lenses, the AA filter does not lack. But put a razor sharp lens, as Sigma 50mm Art, moiré and aliasing will be visible. I'd rather have an AA filter and not worry about jagged edges and false colors in my images.

Thousand Thanks, Sir, Dear Teacher Mr. ajfotofilmagem .
I have learn some thing new and great knowledge  from you to day , about Low-Pass Filter.
Have a great Weekend, Sir.

Technical Support / No, Not Stupid question, But Question, Sir/ Madame
« on: January 21, 2015, 03:31:04 PM »
Dear Teachers and Friends.
Another question that I do not know and Want to know to compare and Make decision to buy light equipment  in the near Future.
Yes,  The question about Lighting, Sir/ Madame.
Why All Flashes are specify such as = Canon 580 EX  = 58m./ 190' @ ISO 100 ( for the Flash Power, Canon 430 EX II=43M./ 141 ' @ ISO=100, Yes I am Understand that 430EXII is less power than 580EX.
BIG BUT,  The Studio Light/ Flashes Such as Phottix Indra 500TTL power = 500 Watts Studio Strobe or 400 Full Power Flash---Yes, I complete understand of 500 Watts Power of Light.
BUT I do not know how to compare to Camera Flash 58m./ 190' @ ISO = 100----Yes? How many of 580 EX  to be equal 500 Wats Power of Phottix Indra 500TTL ?

Well, Yes, I have so many Flashes in my hand, and Do not want to spend $ 1,200 US Dollars for Phottix Indra 500TTL, If I do not need to buy 10 of  580 EX II.
Thank you, Sir/ Madame.
Have a great Wednesday.

Lenses / Re: Inconsistent reviewing of lenses
« on: January 21, 2015, 03:09:03 PM »
I tend to prefer actual data and properly done tests rather than my or someone else's calibrated eyeball. 
I come from a technical job running tests in my lab for clients like NASA, and I'd have lost my job if I did tests like those.  "Real World Targets", meaning a bookshelf with natural and varying amounts and colors of light falling on it, and then comparing other products under almost certainly varying conditions.
To properly compare products, they need to be tested under the exact came conditions, which includes light levels and colors. 
A sloppy test procedure only causes me to wonder if any of the other parameters were properly controlled.  Maybe the solid tripod was affected by every truck rolling by, that's real world, after all.
Most of the online lens testers are limited by funds and test equipment, but some of them at least manage to turn in consistent results.
I have no reason to say his results are right or wrong, but I do not trust the test procedure he reveals.

+100 With you, Sir, Dear Teacher, Mr. Mt Spokane.
As my Professional Architect, Yes, I can Use my Eye balls and My Dip stick to test the Strength of Ready to pour Concrete from Concrete Truck  and use the Slump Test Cone to test at the job site too, BUT, I must send the poured  Cylinders of 10 to test in the Lab. for the REAL LAB TEST Strength of Concrete, Before to make my decision  of accept or reject that batch of concrete.
Yes, Sir, Too many Factors at the field to mess up the test by eye balls, such as the great 1200 US DOLLARS Tripods or 59 US Dollars Tripods, Or the Moisture in the air that create the mini-fog/ mini haze that interfere of the quality of Lens in that mili-seconds of the press shutter to recorded the picture.
Have a great Wednesday, Sir.

Dear friend Surapon. Yes there are wide angle converters (0.65x for example), to be threaded in front of video cameras.

However the loss of sharpness, and high levels of chromatic aberration and barrel distortion, do not encourage Canon and other serious manufacturers to produce this kind of thing.

There are wide-angle converter lenses manufactured in china, which cost a hundred dollars, but will steal the picture quality, much worse than a tele converter 2x.

I personally am not a big fan of fish-eye effect, and I wish there wide angle lenses like Sigma 12-24mm rectilinear high quality. The Sigma 12-24mm (new model) has good image quality at F8, and very good in F11. Those who want quality similar in F4, should prepare the pocket for something like $ 3000.

Thousand Thanks, Sir, Dear Great Teacher, Mr. ajfotofilmagem.
Yes, Sir, Your answer are right to the point, When we watch the Video 20-40 years ago, Just on the 24 inches or 40 Inches MAX. Standard TV 550-700 Lines ( ?)---Ha, Ha, Ha, Not just Right Now Super LED 80 Inches TV screen= Yes, Long time ago Bad Video from 0.65X  or 2X plastic Lenses adaptor= No one can see the Difference quality of video.= You are Right Sir.
Yes, Sir, Now  and the Near Future WE have 22 MP and will go up to 100 MP DSLR soon, and we can not stand for " the loss of sharpness, and high levels of chromatic aberration and barrel distortion", which made by $ 500 US Dollars adapter.
Have a great Day, Sir.

Hi Surapon

Here's my stab at a stupid answer  :)

You can gather more light at the front by using a convex adaptor, as the light still passes through the master element block the image projection will cover the sensor.

If you put it in behind you are stretching or bending the light path that the objective lens has given you, you are restricted by the field of view of the objective lens. 

Now, some smart cookies have actually done what you have suggested, and put a wide angle converter behind the lens, but it only works when there is image circle to spare, such as using an EF full-frame lens on an APS-C sensor camera.

Metabones speed boosters are basically using redundancy in the lens only available because of the crop factor.

I think  :)

Thanks you, Sir, Dear Friend Mr. Tinky.
Your answer are Clear and Make Logic sense to me, And I complete under stand Now. Yes, Sir, Canon Co. want to sell us $ 3000 US Dollars New Wide Angle Lens = Better to sell  0.65 X( If they made), 1.4X and 2X at $ 500 Us Dollars.
Have a great work Week, Sir.

« on: January 19, 2015, 10:53:50 AM »
Hi Surapon,

I am sure the lack of comments has nothing to do with the fact that the flashes are made in China, if we all stopped using items made there then we would all be in a terrible state, besides, Apple products are know for their quality and have been made in China for years.

With regards the Phottix setup. When I upgraded from my 550EX's to the 600-EX-RT system the only other radio system I seriously considered was the Odin system, unfortunately at that time they didn't have the Mitros+ and I really wanted to get away from the separate triggers with the additional batteries etc that they entail. However now Phottix have come out with the Indra that fully integrates with the Odins, and the much nicer interface with the Odin II than the ST-E3-RT, I think if I were to make the decision to upgrade today I'd go for the Phottix.

Good Monday Morning and Happy Holiday to my friend Mr. privatebydesign.
Thanks to answer my request, Yes, You are right on the Target, If we do not buy any Product from " Made in China"---We just walk on Naked Body, and Barefoot too, Yes, Yesterday, My dear friends from Thailand want me to buy the Top line of NIKE Shoe/ Made in USA. and send to him---I try, But Fail- All the Sports/ Walking shoes made in CHINA----Ha, Ha, Ha, Well, Just one = Made in Germany and cost $ 255 US Dollars.

Yes, Sir after 3-4 years of my awesome Phottix Odin I, and just up date Firmware 2015 for Better High speed Flashes Sync. and Can Communicate with Canon 1Dx , 7D MK II and EOS-M , that a big plus for me.

Sorry, I do not know what kind of Improvement Of Phottix Odin II from Odin I.

Yes, Sir, In the Near Future, I will get Phottix Indra 500 W, Monolight TTL capability , and  Wireless control by Phyottix Odin and Phottix Mitros+( Yes, $ 1,200 from B&H + $ 400 US Dollars for Indra Battery , Each)

Have a Great Day, Sir.

« on: January 19, 2015, 08:42:56 AM »
Well, Many of my friends come to read this post and do not want to answer or give any Opinion, because of High Cost of " MADE IN CHINA" Product= $ 400 US Dollars for just Flash, and might not worth any penny( ???), And Why I not just by the New Canon Flashes---Not Like $ 60  to 200 US Dollars Youngnuo , or Neewer Flashes.
Have a great WORK WEEK, Sir/ Madame.

Lighting / Re: My DIY for MACRO Photography LIGHTS
« on: January 19, 2015, 08:36:03 AM »
Happy new year, Surapon!  Happy new idea!

Thankssss, Dear Friend Mr. OKO-SAN.
Happy new Year 2015 to your family and You too.

Lighting / Re: My DIY for MACRO Photography LIGHTS
« on: January 19, 2015, 08:34:52 AM »
Surapon, thank you for the ideas.

Thankssss, Dear Friend Mr. sanjosedave.
Happy New year 2015 to your family and you too.

Dear Teachers and Friends.
Another stupid question from me again which I never see in any post in CR. ( Or I miss this one).
After I see the Post "EF 11-24 f/4L USM Coming Shortly" and Almost $ 3,000 US Dollars, The More I Think about my Dumb Quistion.
Long time ago, I use to do the video/ film  record movie  as hobby, Start from 8mm., super 8 Sound, VHS, MINI-DV, and hard drive system.
Yes, When I want longer range / tele. picture, I just put my add on tele.(1.5 X ) Lens on top of my Video camera lens. And If I want to shoot more wide angle, I just pop my Wide angle ( 0.65X) Lens on the top of camera Lens= Similar to filter.
Yes, Now , Some of Canon Lenses for DSLR , we can use 1.4X and 2X to get the Longer Range picture with out spend money arms and Legs.  BUT FOR ADD ON LENS(AT THE BACK OF THE NORMAL LENS) for Super Wide angle effect= Why no one do this add-on wide angle lens ?
NO, I do not want to spend $ 3,000 US Dollars for EF 11-24 just F=4.0, Because I already have Tamron 11-18 mm.F/4.5-5.6 , Canon EF 17-40 MM L. Plus TS-E 24 MM L MK II and  Rokinon 14 mm, F/2.8.
Yes, Sir/ Madame, That is my Stupid question.
Thousand thanks to answer.
Have a great work Week.

I am looking to get me a BlackRapid strap or something in that line which I can use with my 5D3. In most scenarios I use my the 5D3 on my tripod for landscape shots, but at times I like to detach it from the tripod and shoot handheld. When handheld, I like the camera to have some form of secured strap which I can use to wrap around my wrist or leave it hanging on the side of my shoulder.

I am looking for something that is reliable, secured, and I can attach/detach the strap with ease depending on my shooting scenarios. The heaviest load it will need to withstand is 5D3 + 70-200 IS II. Any advice or recommendations? Oh also anyone used a wrist strap, any recommendations on that? Thanks.

Dear Friend, Mr. Killswitch
 here the link that you might want to see 




PS, For my Self, I use Free Camera Straps from CPS. Canon Professional Services.

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