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Messages - digital paradise

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151
Lighting / Re: Speedlite ST-E2 v's ST-E3-RT
« on: February 14, 2013, 07:02:10 PM »
If you want to go with cables

 http://ocfgear.com

152
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: New MFA method
« on: February 14, 2013, 08:09:34 AM »
I jokingly asked snapsy when he was coming out with software. I had in mind doing this test several times to include variation and get the best value. Obviously this was meant to be a quick method so software just slows it down. It is so quick to use that it would take no time to go through it several times putting the lens OOF between the tests. Next week I will give it a good run.

So East Wind. Are you saying that the same issues apply to FoCal and Focus Tune? I normally send my lenses to Canon because I prefer a trained technician with the correct tools to tune my lenses. It is a pain so I am always looking for new method.

I have not tried FoCal but did try Focus Tune with mixed results. Also I tried every other method out there in the last several years. I won't use any method where I have to visually make a decision. I want the method to tell me what value to use.       

153
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: New MFA method
« on: February 14, 2013, 12:57:07 AM »
Not sure if it was here or elsewhere that the author and testers determined that when you get to the point where the AF green dot flickers or delays then you went too far. It can do that for 3 or more values - negative or positive.

The last value where the green dot shows AF lock instantly is the stopping point. If the next value flickers or hesitates even for a bit use the previous value. Not sure if the members that are having mixed results are following this. It happened to me when I did not stop and kept going until there was no AF confirmation at all. Negative side was consistent but the positive side was +16 one time and +20 the next. 

I have yet to test this but Fred Miranda at FM forums stated it appeared more accurate.               


154
Lighting / Re: Speedlite ST-E2 v's ST-E3-RT
« on: February 13, 2013, 10:33:08 PM »
As long as you are aware that optical means line of sight and not as dependable as radio. I don't know a lot about the STE2 but if don't need all of the features there a lots of radio triggers out there you can get brand new for half the price of the STE2. I imagine there are quite a few used ones on the market.       

155
Software & Accessories / Re: Best Practices for using a Monopod
« on: February 13, 2013, 10:58:12 AM »

That is pretty good. I'm just not comfortable using it for BIF.  One day I'll pick up a gimballed head and use my tripod.

Thanks ... I'd like a gimball head too but for the 100-400 its overkill.

Yes it is. I only have the 300L F4 IS. Saving the gimbal for when I get my 500 F4 IS. When I win the lottery that is.

156
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 7D or 5D3 for low light candids?
« on: February 13, 2013, 10:00:46 AM »
1600 with 5D3. No NR.


157
Software & Accessories / Re: Best Practices for using a Monopod
« on: February 13, 2013, 08:32:36 AM »
Thanks for the replies ...

ballheads are no good with monopods. look for a monopod head or screw your 100-400 feet directly to the monopod.

Screwing the 100-400 directly on the monopod is not an option given I need the QR for birds in flight. I'll try monopod head and see if that helps.

are you mounting the monopod to the lens collar or to the camera?

Tripod Collar of the 100-400

I use a ball head on mine. If I'm shooting sports and sitting I can angle the pod away from me slightly. Helps with birds in trees as well. Even sports while standing. A mono pod is useless for birds or planes in flight.     

+1. This is the reason I use the monopod with the ball head. The QR comes in handy for the BIF. 

BTW, this is what I did click this weekend ...

That is pretty good. I'm just not comfortable using it for BIF.  One day I'll pick up a gimballed head and use my tripod.

158
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 7D or 5D3 for low light candids?
« on: February 13, 2013, 08:28:38 AM »
@wickidwombat: so you're talking about 3.5 stops in RAW from crop. That comes close. Coming from a 30D 1600 was highest I would dare to go in nightphotography (knowing there's some PP waiting). With the 5D3 now I go as high as 25.600 or 51200 without hesitation. Depending on your situation, even 51k without NR look quite usable  8)


Shooting my Cat at ISO 51k by Peter Hauri, on Flickr


That is not too bad at all. Anyone remember film? Bad grain (noise) at ISO 400. Digital has changed everything. I'd never go back.

I had no issues shooting my 5D2 at 6400 for important events if I had to. 12,800 would be a nice option with my 5D3. I'll have to check it out.

159
My question is whether my light modifiers for the 580EX2 (e.g. stofen diffuser, Rayflash ring light, etc) will also fit the flash head of the 600EX? Thanks!

It is actually not a bad thing. We can use the stofen for what it was intended. A spare battery holder, etc.  ;D

160
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 7D or 5D3 for low light candids?
« on: February 13, 2013, 01:40:35 AM »
I have both bodies. I don't have an issue shooting my 7D at 12,800 for sports and such if I have to but I sure would not do that for a wedding. 7D @ 1600 is comfortable and 3200 if I have to. The 7D will yield great even higher ISO shots but I call the sensor light hungry. It needs correct exposure so it is not very forgiving.

The 5D3 on the other hand will do better at higher ISO's and is a little more forgiving. If I were to shoot a lot of low light I would get a FF sensor. It is just basic megapixels, sensor size and math.

Here is my 7D at 12,800. NR using PS/LR - they are both the same. I really can't tell you about AF acquisition as I don't suffer with either.

   

               

161
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5d Mark iii noise at 1600
« on: February 12, 2013, 07:32:49 PM »
I haven't read through this whole thread, so I don't know what was previously discussed, but I've found the default lightroom sharpening to be too agressive... accentuating high-iso noise. Also, under Camera Calibration:Profile, try Camera Faithful or Camera Neutral...it may give you a better rendering than Adobe Standard depending on what you are going for. Let me know if any of that helps you out. I'm genuinely curious.


Thanks for the info. I tried the Neutral/Faithful profiles and they didn't do much to alleviate the noise. As you said, Lightroom's Standard noise level (25) is far too harsh, and I had better results when dragging the Sharpening slider to '0.' There was still a bit of noise left when compared to the raw file in DPP.

Digital Paradise, I love the photo of the dog shot @ 1600 ISO. You mentioned applying no NR for this photo. Do you mind me asking which program you ran it through, or was it straight out of camera?

I'll post a comparison of a LR photo and that same photo in DPP later this evening/tomorrow to show the difference I'm getting. As mentioned, I'd love to find a way to mimic DPP's effects directly in Lightroom. However if I have to, I suppose I'll just add DPP as the precursor step to Lightroom in my overall workflow, to alleviate the noise.

I'm curious, has anyone with a 5D3 + LR noticed this (Seeming) software problem? Or is it just a few?


I used PS but LR which I own is the same. Straight out of camera but there was an oops. PS/LR color noise defaults to 25 and I forgot to turn it off. Here is another one with colour NR off. Made little difference. I mask at about 80 in the detail pallet which helps.


162
Software & Accessories / Re: Best Practices for using a Monopod
« on: February 12, 2013, 02:00:36 AM »
I use a ball head on mine. If I'm shooting sports and sitting I can angle the pod away from me slightly. Helps with birds in trees as well. Even sports while standing. A mono pod is useless for birds or planes in flight.     

163
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5d Mark iii noise at 1600
« on: February 11, 2013, 07:00:44 PM »
ISO 1600 with my 5D3. No NR applied


164
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5d Mark iii noise at 1600
« on: February 11, 2013, 05:24:17 PM »
That is why it is so critical to use masking in the Detail pallet. I usually wind up around 80. If you don't then you just sharpen any existing noise in the smooth/background areas. You only want to sharpen edges.

And yes most of those images were underexposed. Add high ISO you are going to get noise. Chrominance noise will really
show the splotches.   

These two with my 5D2 at ISO 6,400. I used a flash so I got good exposures. I did do some NR using LR.




165
Lighting / Re: Do 600EX-RT not work with Cybersyncs?
« on: February 10, 2013, 08:51:18 PM »
A dumb question but you don't have the 600 on master or slave do you? 

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