And not very good photoshop, look at the canon logo on the right hand device, perspective all wrong....
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Rang, I only use Canon batteries-
Student of the light- I have formatted the cards- I format them when I traqnsfer the photos to the computer
Neuro- one more time- They weren't even going to perform the product advisory work UNTIL I approved of being charged for work that was covered under warranty- I had to fight with them to even perform the product advisory work- they simply had set the camera on a shelf and never even began work on the product advisory issue- they should have at least done that work then contacted me IF they felt there was an issue with the warranty concerning the other issue, and asked me how to continue. They did not- they apparently weren't even going to contact me- I was the oen who had to contact them,
I have had a horrible experience with this camera right from Day one practically, and now the stinking thing is dead, making a bad situation worse. I am not a smart person, nor do I explain things well- but I came here to explain to people that they might run into the horrible issues I've run into, NOT to be berated and made to feel stupid by you- but you seem hell bent on doing so apparently- You';ve done this several times with me in previous threads- not sure what your problem is?
flip over to lu-la (luminous landscape). Both the Phase One and Hassy use the Sony 50mp CMOS sensor...Well, that should stir things up a bit.
Here's the setup: Phase One and Hasselblad have announced 50 mp sensors for their large format (I really don't feel that we can refer to these as "medium" format anymore) cameras.
Where did you get the information that Hasselblad had announced 50 MP medium format sensor? As far as I know, it's a CMOS censor that will appear in their new body.
I'm quite content with the DR of my 5D3
Lovely shot. But is it only me who feels that a bit more detail in the burnt out sun area would be nicer? A grad filter or change in lighting. Just wondering... I know the hot spot is interesting but JUST A BIT MORE DETAIL perhaps?
Personally, I like it how it is. I might actually increase the glare just a bit. Not every region of a photo needs more detail, sometimes lower detail and less contrast is exactly what you want.
It's a lovely shot and one I really like...but that sky is blown out. An ND grad would render the sky darker and probably lost detail in the darker sky areas. It would have increased contrast where it wasn't wanted. The only way to have fixed this here is to have taken a 2nd photograph but at a 2-3 stop darker exposure and then blended the highlight areas carefully in photoshop using a layer. Shadows can be pulled but clipped highlights are not recoverable. It's also important to render the sky brighter than the foreground, another error I regularly see where ND grads are employed. If an ND grad was used with the above photo, the sky would have been darker than the foreground and wouldn't look right.
Many people here are talking about the D800's extra DR, but the truth is that it's only in the shadows...or rather it's the push-ability in the shadows during post production with low iso noise is really what is being talked about. Highlight clipping / blown highlights occurs at pretty much the same between the 5DIII and D800. So it's not really any extra DR, just better iso thresholds in the deep black areas.
Personally, I've taken about 55,000 photos at ISO 800 - 3200. I've taken about 15,000 at ISO 400, and less than 10,000 at ISO 100 and 200. Of the ISO 100 photos, I have needed more dynamic range than my 7D offers in about 2000 shots, however I am usually short by maybe one stop (and that is more because of the 7D pixel size...if I had a 5D III, I would have what I need for pretty much everything I've shot before.) In the cases where slight vertical banding noise did show up in the shadows (maybe a couple hundred at most)...I used Topaz DeNoise 5, and was not only able to remove the banding, but I also gained more dynamic range (that's what happens when you reduce noise anyway...you gain DR, but Topaz has a feature that attempts to further recover DR that was lost to shadow noise due to a loss of tonal fidelity, which gains me even more.)
I use GND filtration for my landscape photography, so dynamic range is actually something I have a lot of control over in the field. I would actually greatly appreciate more native sensor DR, as it would reduce my need to use GND filters. It would also help me avoid that unsightly GND artifact where mountaintops end up dark or even black when you need to use more than two to three stops of filtration. That is the single situation where I think having more dynamic range would actually be the most important factor for IQ...ONE situation. I also suspect that tonemapping 14 stops into 8-10 stops without ending up with quirky shifts in contrast and color fidelity would still be very challenging, and I highly doubt I would stop using GND filters even if I had a D800. I still doubt I would push shadows around more than 2-3 stops....but it would be 2-3 stops along with fewer GND filters, which still makes the job easier in the end.
The bottom tape seems to be protecting the contacts!? The "Mark Xyz" is usually closer to the lens and it seems to be a 1dx anyway. Would you need to tape the covers to avoid them to open?.... Or worse ...holding together the camera from a previous "attack".Yup, given the position it is to protect all the interfaces on the 1Dx. It is a 1Dx based on the dual buttons which were introduced with that body. I would guess the photog is being a little cautious given the unpredictable nature of british weather
If it is CE/IR I wonder if they would/could come after people who have bought through them for duties retrospectively?Nope. The "contract" was set when you paid for the goods. Unless they are illegal then if the vendor has not covered the costs, it is their issue not yours. Same if they did not add vat to their prices. They would have to pay IR and therefore effectively have charged you less.