December 18, 2014, 06:28:24 PM

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Messages - Stu_bert

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PowerShot / Re: Canon EOS Smart 1 Phone
« on: March 31, 2014, 12:58:26 PM »
And not very good photoshop, look at the canon logo on the right hand device, perspective all wrong....  :-[

EOS Bodies / Re: 1DX Won't Power On
« on: March 18, 2014, 07:08:37 PM »
Rang, I only use Canon batteries-

Student of the light- I have formatted the cards- I format them when I traqnsfer the photos to the computer

Neuro- one more time- They weren't even going to perform the product advisory work UNTIL I approved of being charged for work that was covered under warranty- I had to fight with them to even perform the product advisory work- they simply had set the camera on a shelf and never even began work on the product advisory issue- they should have at least done that work then contacted me IF they felt there was an issue with the warranty concerning the other issue, and asked me how to continue. They did not- they apparently weren't even going to contact me- I was the oen who had to contact them,

I have had a horrible experience with this camera right from Day one practically, and now the stinking thing is dead, making a bad situation worse. I am not a smart person, nor do I explain things well- but I came here to explain to people that they might run into the horrible issues I've run into, NOT to be berated and made to feel stupid by you- but you seem hell bent on doing so apparently- You';ve done this several times with me in previous threads- not sure what your problem is?

In the uk, any canon repairs are covered by 6 month warranty, can't speak for elsewhere. So if you contact them as mentioned and point out the previous repair, the only cost *might* be the shipping cost. You should of course check as not all canon repair centres globally seem to work the same as this forum demonstrates....

Perhaps because if you need a whole bunch of cards, then whether you spend 50 bucks or 150 bucks does make a difference  :D.  And there's no guarantee that you will be able to use your cards in future as different standards come out and manufacturers switch to them....

If you indeed like to rattle off the frames, then the fastest you can afford indeed makes sense....

take a look over at magic lantern and there's some posts in the forums comparing video speeds....

In general, as the other posters have stated, your style of shooting needs to either have high framerate for stills shooting, or you're shooting video - not normal, using something like ML.

If you don't tend to do either, save your money  :D

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon won't offer a high megapixel body
« on: January 24, 2014, 05:47:53 PM »
Well, that should stir things up a bit.

Here's the setup: Phase One and Hasselblad have announced 50 mp sensors for their large format (I really don't feel that we can refer to these as "medium" format anymore) cameras.

Where did you get the information that Hasselblad had announced 50 MP medium format sensor? As far as I know, it's a CMOS censor that will appear in their new body.
flip over to lu-la (luminous landscape). Both the Phase One and Hassy use the Sony 50mp CMOS sensor...

EOS Bodies / Re: Will Canon Answer the D4s? [CR2]
« on: January 11, 2014, 10:02:02 AM »
I'm quite content with the DR of my 5D3 ;D

Lovely shot. But is it only me who feels that a bit more detail in the burnt out sun area would be nicer? A grad filter or change in lighting. Just wondering... I know the hot spot is interesting but JUST A BIT MORE DETAIL perhaps?

Personally, I like it how it is. I might actually increase the glare just a bit. Not every region of a photo needs more detail, sometimes lower detail and less contrast is exactly what you want.

It's a lovely shot and one I really like...but that sky is blown out. An ND grad would render the sky darker and probably lost detail in the darker sky areas. It would have increased contrast where it wasn't wanted. The only way to have fixed this here is to have taken a 2nd photograph but at a 2-3 stop darker exposure and then blended the highlight areas carefully in photoshop using a layer. Shadows can be pulled but clipped highlights are not recoverable. It's also important to render the sky brighter than the foreground, another error I regularly see where ND grads are employed. If an ND grad was used with the above photo, the sky would have been darker than the foreground and wouldn't look right.

Many people here are talking about the D800's extra DR, but the truth is that it's only in the shadows...or rather it's the push-ability in the shadows during post production with low iso noise is really what is being talked about. Highlight clipping / blown highlights occurs at pretty much the same between the 5DIII and D800. So it's not really any extra DR, just better iso thresholds in the deep black areas.

+1 on the picture but it is personal preference. I remember a Pro photographer giving a talk where he describes the best photos as where your eye is drawn into the photo to where you want it. You can take it on a "journey" around the picture, but it never leaves the shot and always comes back to where you want.

I love the car, I get the positioning of the sun, like how the lighting has been done on the car, the slight glare on the roof (don't disagree more might work also) and the composition / low vantage point (tbh far better than I could take) but my eyes still oscillate between the car and the sun, (sorry just personal affliction aka "pet hate").

EOS Bodies / Re: Will Canon Answer the D4s? [CR2]
« on: January 11, 2014, 09:52:20 AM »

Personally, I've taken about 55,000 photos at ISO 800 - 3200. I've taken about 15,000 at ISO 400, and less than 10,000 at ISO 100 and 200. Of the ISO 100 photos, I have needed more dynamic range than my 7D offers in about 2000 shots, however I am usually short by maybe one stop (and that is more because of the 7D pixel size...if I had a 5D III, I would have what I need for pretty much everything I've shot before.) In the cases where slight vertical banding noise did show up in the shadows (maybe a couple hundred at most)...I used Topaz DeNoise 5, and was not only able to remove the banding, but I also gained more dynamic range (that's what happens when you reduce noise gain DR, but Topaz has a feature that attempts to further recover DR that was lost to shadow noise due to a loss of tonal fidelity, which gains me even more.)

I use GND filtration for my landscape photography, so dynamic range is actually something I have a lot of control over in the field. I would actually greatly appreciate more native sensor DR, as it would reduce my need to use GND filters. It would also help me avoid that unsightly GND artifact where mountaintops end up dark or even black when you need to use more than two to three stops of filtration. That is the single situation where I think having more dynamic range would actually be the most important factor for IQ...ONE situation. I also suspect that tonemapping 14 stops into 8-10 stops without ending up with quirky shifts in contrast and color fidelity would still be very challenging, and I highly doubt I would stop using GND filters even if I had a D800. I still doubt I would push shadows around more than 2-3 stops....but it would be 2-3 stops along with fewer GND filters, which still makes the job easier in the end.

I've been used GNDs for 20+ years, but that's because I have to. However I would not say that gives me control over DR. It allows me to compress it into a range which the sensor can capture. But if you didn't have to use a GND, wouldn't that be better?

Re low ISO - surely the point is that where possible, post processing should be kept to a minimum. It's not the fact that you can push, it's the fact that if you could avoid it, then you can spend more time doing the things you want to, and less effort after.

Third, the more you can see the picture as is, in the field then the less you have to visualise what post processing will do for you.

As a landscape photographer, I would like lower ISO (<100, ideally ISO 12 as I used to shoot in slides), and yes I would like the ability to have better DR and less noise in the picture full stop (but there are also a lot of times where you don't want greater DR and you will reduce it to focus the viewer where you want to)

When I do wildlife, urban or sports the same is true. But that does depend on the shots you are trying to take.

However, does the 1Ds III still take amazingly good photos? Sure does. As does every camera in the last 5-10 years. But is not the point that we still want better/improvements, and aside from the UX/Software features, where else can Canon improve (AF for movies, DR, tracking algorithms)? Like you, I'm not saying it's the end of the world for my photos if I don't have these features - you work with what you have, it's just that it would make it easier.

As for stats on ISO ranges - surely that changes with time? With the 10D I hated going to ISO 200, let alone 400. With a camera today, I'm not bothered about ISO 1600. So I'm not sure that's too helpful.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: The unbreakable is broken.
« on: December 31, 2013, 04:47:55 AM »
I would suggest the case was damaged before shipping, not during. Given what you say about the box it came in, and everyone's experience, it was like that when it was packed  :(

For me, death before your time is tragic no matter the age, the location or the "how"...

He was indeed talented and brave. OP - thank you for sharing the link

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: What a waste of 1-serie camera
« on: December 23, 2013, 05:18:44 AM »
The bottom tape seems to be protecting the contacts!? The "Mark Xyz" is usually closer to the lens and it seems to be a 1dx anyway. Would you need to tape the covers to avoid them to open?.... Or worse ...holding together the camera from a previous "attack".
Yup, given the position it is to protect all the interfaces on the 1Dx. It is a 1Dx based on the dual buttons which were introduced with that body. I would guess the photog is being a little cautious given the unpredictable nature of british weather  ;)

Canon General / Re: procamerashop?
« on: November 06, 2013, 04:06:41 PM »
If it is CE/IR I wonder if they would/could come after people who have bought through them for duties retrospectively?
Nope. The "contract" was set when you paid for the goods. Unless they are illegal then if the vendor has not covered the costs, it is their issue not yours. Same if they did not add vat to their prices. They would have to pay IR and therefore effectively have charged you less.

EOS Bodies / Re: EOS-1 Announcement Q2 2014? [CR1]
« on: November 01, 2013, 05:04:07 PM »
Curious to see how Canon will balance this with their MF manufacturer acquisition later in 2014....

Wonder if the sensor tech for the new MP body is theirs or from the MF company  ::)

Canon General / Re: procamerashop?
« on: October 27, 2013, 06:51:57 AM »
I'm still in contact via email and they still claim to be honouring warranty which is good, but they can't trade. As was mentioned previously, would concur they're in dialogue with customs & excise / inland revenue, and right now they can't sell anything...

Lenses / Re: Does IQ vary with focus distance?
« on: October 13, 2013, 08:19:28 PM »
This may be not what you were asking, but atmospherics will always impact quality and therefore subject distance will affect IQ... You can correct some lens deficiencies, but you can't change the weather  ;)

Of course it depends on what you're shooting, but MTF show best quality in controlled conditions...

Lenses / Re: Advice on dream African photo safari
« on: October 13, 2013, 08:14:50 PM »
I think to start off you need to decide what sort of photography you want to take, and what sort of wildlife you want pictures of.

I've been lucky enough to visit Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Zambia, Tanzania & Kenya, but it depends on what I want to shoot as to where I go...

A few snippets:

Tech: If you want birdlife, then you want longer reach than the 400mm even with 1.4x built in
Style: If you want water, then you're talking more Zambia or Botswana.
Composition: Do you want lush green or straw coloured surroundings?
Subjects: Do you want to see the great migration? do you want to see young being born?

if this is your only trip to Africa, then I would start with the shots that inspire you and the mammals & birds you really want to capture. Probably those two elements will help focus your itinerary, and then the tech (what to buy and take), comes after that....

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