Messages

1

Lighting / Re: PocketWizard Noob

« on: Today at 08:11:41 PM »

Are you using on-camera flashes that do TTL or a strobe system that can be controlled remotely?  Yes, you need one PW device for each strobe you want to fire, unless you're plugging the PW into a pack.  Basically there are 2 types of PocketWizard systems:

PlusII/PlusIII/PlusX/MultiMax - these are basic 'fire' commands to a strobe.  You get to adjust each strobe independently of each other, but this can be a pain.  The MultiMax can be setup in zones, and you can turn on and off each zone from the master.  These are best as transceivers, as you can use 1 on camera, and 3 on strobes, or 2 different cameras each controlling their own strobes (if you set them to different channels).

FlexTT/MiniTT - these have transmitter only and transceiver models, and are designed for situations where you're controlling power manually or via eTTL.  The times I've played with them, the MiniTT1 was more of a pain than it's worth, and it was just better to work with all TT5's.  Now the key thing to remember is the AC3 accessory needs a TT1 or TT5 to sit in (this confused me until I played with it).

Depending on the strobes you have, there are additional modules for specific brands, so you may or may not need certain pieces.  Then again, depending on what you're using for flashes, you can also set them do optical slaves, so as when one fires, it triggers the others to blink  (not good when other flashes are going off).

2

Lenses / Re: $1000 .. what to buy

« on: Today at 02:30:40 PM »

If Macro is something you're looking at, pick up a used 100mmF2.8 non-L for ~$400.

You don't say if you have any strobes, so spend the rest on a 600EX or a macro lens light setup.

Otherwise the 17-40L is a great lens - especially since you can purchase used and sell it later at the same price point.

3

Software & Accessories / Re: New Macpro teased at Mac Conference

« on: June 11, 2013, 03:47:32 AM »

I think my only issue is that they're teasing these now, and expect folks to be ok with the wait.  Apple historically says here it is, you can buy it tomorrow/next week/next month...  I don't see it being able to hold enough RAM, like 64gb or higher, so you're doing 16gb RAM sticks?  That and AMD does single socket CPU's with 16 cores, so doing 2x 6 core is (fill in here)....

This also kills the ability to rack mount them, as Apple killed the xServe.  It should also help push down the price of thunderbolt options, as we're getting screwed with the huge markup to plug in anything currently.  I still want a 4k Apple Thunderbolt display with a built-in 1-2gb graphics card.

4

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Looking as tall as the Eiffel Tower - best ways to take this pic

« on: June 04, 2013, 06:59:17 PM »

set small aperture: yes, but then u risk losing focus of the person surely?

Nope - person in focus too.  Depending on what size sensor - full frame f11 is fine, and on crop f8 is fine.  Auto-focus will be in the middle of the DoF.  So focus looks to be half way between the guy and the white Ford Transit van - so the person is in the front half of the DoF with the ET at the far end of the DoF.

F16 - f22 are all fine, but you'll get softening from diffraction, so be aware of it.

5

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Looking as tall as the Eiffel Tower - best ways to take this pic

« on: June 04, 2013, 02:26:34 PM »

Your issue is depth of field - aka your subject is too close to the camera that what's in focus doesn't include infinity (aka the background way far away).

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

http://petapixel.com/2013/04/27/silhouettes-in-a-giant-moonrise-captured-using-a-1200mm-lens/

6

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Do I need a light meter? Can I use Android or iPhone??

« on: June 01, 2013, 11:38:45 PM »

So to answer the original question, both are a solid maybe.  iPhone and Android based light meters can be used for constant lights - stuff you'd use to shoot video.  Light meters that understand what a strobe is are worth their weight in gold, as it allows you to construct a photo, building an image in layers, and lighting each layer independently.

So the next question is if you need a light meter.  Long story short it depends on what you're shooting.   Light meters are used in fine art and portraiture, mostly when using strobes.  If you do this style of photography AND you are doing off camera flash, then it would be a good idea to pick up a light meter.  Otherwise, save your money.

7

Pricewatch Deals / Re: Refurb 1D X in stock for $5439.20

« on: May 30, 2013, 03:25:34 AM »

As of yesterday, the Canon Loyalty program did include the refurb 5d mk3, so $2,380 (I called).  I wonder what discount the 1Dx would get.

8

Technical Support / Re: Going medium format for studio work?

« on: May 28, 2013, 06:45:32 PM »

So for the OP, MF makers are much more demo oriented than we're used to, the folks who sell them are also a notch or two above normal camera store employees.  They have events, like the PhaseOne World Tour where they take these tools out and you can learn about them.  I saw one 2 weeks ago that was a Mamiya/Leaf and I was meaning to get over just to play with one.  Personally I'd love a Pentax 645D, but I would get shot before the charge cleared my credit card.

The biggest issue is that if there isn't a local retailer you can visit, it's really hard to get a bit of hands on with the systems.

http://www.phaseone.com/en/FooterMenu/Events.aspx
http://www.mamiyaleaf.com/events_usa.html

9

Software & Accessories / Re: Web Gallery Plugin/Software - recommendations?

« on: May 21, 2013, 02:26:04 AM »

Slideshow Pro looks really great...but like it or not we're heading into the post-flash era.
Plenty of clients and AD's are viewing on iPads or actually request non-flash delivery.

-PW

I fully agree, iPads and their high resolution screen are the defacto review platform for clients.  I don't seem to have an issue viewing the site from my iPad, as their Director product actually switches to HTML5 for iOS and Android devices.

10

Software & Accessories / Re: Web Gallery Plugin/Software - recommendations?

« on: May 20, 2013, 07:51:15 PM »

Caught this one when Sal Cincotta did a marketing your photography business on Creative Live.

http://slideshowpro.com/ - hosted, but monthly fees
http://slideshowpro.net/ - buy it to host yourself

http://www.creativelive.com/instructor/sal-cincotta

I haven't had a chance to play with it yet, but give it a go and let me know.

11

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Need help with video lighting!!!

« on: May 16, 2013, 04:47:26 PM »

Also, when filming indoors, change out your practical lights to match your lights you buy. It makes life so much easier when trying to set white balance, and for color correction/grading in post.

Huge detail that most folks forget about.  Adding daylight (5600k) to warm (3200k) will drive you nuts in post production.  Gel any other light you can see or swap the bulb to the color you're working with.

So if you're going to be shooting in daylight, what do you use for additional lighting?  Thanks!

Keep in mind that 'daylight' can be two different things - color temp of a light in kelvin, or actually being outside during the day.  And then there is the 'golden hour'.

If you use a warm like like a TOTA, you'd use a CTB gel to change it to daylight, unless you're using it as a key light and you want to warm up your subject (aka they're pale or from Oregon).  Or use a light that's balanced to daylight (for example Arri HMI).  CTO and CTB gel's allow you to color correct one temp to another.

Basically you don't want a mix of the bulbs below used in the same shot.

12

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Need help with video lighting!!!

« on: May 16, 2013, 12:02:06 PM »

A better question can be asked of any camera rental shop that does lighting - what's your basic kit for video.  AKA what do you send out of here when you don't want a customer to b**ch and moan about the equipment not working how they expected it to.

The kit most likely would be a set of Lowel TOTA lights.  Key thing to know is that they don't dim, so you're switching bulbs if you want to go between 1kw, 500w, 350w.  So toss in a set of CTO and CTB filters to get your color right from the start.

LED's are nice and battery friendly, but depending on the work you are doing, they can be the most expensive method to light something.

Also, when filming indoors, change out your practical lights to match your lights you buy. It makes life so much easier when trying to set white balance, and for color correction/grading in post.

Huge detail that most folks forget about.  Adding daylight (5600k) to warm (3200k) will drive you nuts in post production.  Gel any other light you can see or swap the bulb to the color you're working with.

13

Lenses / Re: EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x Announcement Tonight

« on: May 13, 2013, 10:26:02 PM »

I wonder if the flip on/off function can be built into a separate 1.4x TC.  That would be a killer accessory.

I think distances would really screw with it, but if Canon wanted to spend the time and engineer the 70-200 2.8 with a built in 1.4x, it would solve a number of issues folks have.  Just to have a perfectly tuned set is worth an extra $1k.

Wonder how soon LensRentals and BorrowLenses will get their copies.

I wonder if Roger will do a tear down for us.  He might end up being shot at in the process, but lens porn comes at a high cost.

14

Lenses / Re: EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x Announcement Tonight

« on: May 13, 2013, 05:51:30 PM »

Who pukes first, AmEx, Visa or MasterCard?

15

Pricewatch Deals / Prices trending higher?

« on: May 09, 2013, 01:28:41 PM »

I'm itching to click the buy button on the 5d mk3, but the last week or so it's jumped $400.  Is MAP really starting to effect things?  Or does wedding season really lower inventory this much?  I view the body as a solid $3k and the kit a solid $3,500 price point.  Might need to check to see if the loyalty program is valid on the refurb mk3's.