September 21, 2014, 08:14:13 AM

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Messages - J.R.

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Photography Technique / Re: Panning
« on: April 21, 2014, 09:38:56 PM »
Thanks a lot for the replies. I'll keep in mind your suggestions the next time I shoot ... can't wait for this weekend.

Slower is better.    At f/2.8, you're getting both motion blur and OOF blur in the background.  Here's one from a sunny day where I should have brought an ND filter, 70mm (with the 24-70 II), 1/40 s and f/18 (so the blur is all motion).

Thanks, I see your point.

BTW, do you also mean to say that a narrower aperture (than f/2.8) should be preferably used to accentuate streaking lines?

Another way to get more blur is the subject moving faster - but I'm not sure moms like it when you yell at the kids "faster faster"  :P

Haha ... I was shooting right outside my house and when I suggested this to my daughters, I got shouted down by my wife from the window above   :'(

As you were with IS mode II, and Servo AF with one AF point selected, put that point on the face before it gets to where you want the image shot, steadily hold that AF point on the face until you get to where you want it, then gently press the shutter, keep the fluid motion going right through the shot and after, like a golfers follow through. Lots and lots of practice.

I was actually in multiple AF point selection mode. The focus was on the faces of my daughters.

BTW, you got motion blur in your shots at 1/125s! I can see what is possible if one gets his technique right.

Try an external viewfinder - to enhance tracking over longer periods, just an idea.
 Or use a tripod if you can control the path of the subject in someways: With a ball head lock the ball and use the panning capability of the base of the head (e.g.).

 Never checked it both measures work ... just time for me to do that soon :)

I've never used an external viewfinder but I'll try to find out more.

I was actually thinking of camera mounted on monopod, used in sitting / kneeling position. I'm not sure it'll work perfect but may be worth a try.

1st photo looks good to me :)

Thanks Dylan!

for bicycles going slow like that i'd go with 1/15 to 1/30th

As for technique, it just needs tons of practice

first off brace your left elbow into your ribs and let the lens barrel rest on your left palm
next make sure you also keep your right elbow tucked in but dont squeeze everything too tight this will just add shake so be relaxed about it.
next make sure your stance is stable balanced and comfortable
to pan keep your legs and torso all firm and just use your waist to pivot.
begin tracking early and make sure your movement is smooth
i find with race cars you can get a nice smooth rythem going and once you hit the groove the keeper rate comes up

First off, those are excellent shots!

Thanks for the suggestions. I typically shoot with both my elbows drawn in but don't really remember how I was moving for these shots. I may have ended up rotating the camera in my hands and will be more careful as to what I'm doing next time.

It helps to put more distance between your subject and the background, less between you and the subject.  This magnifies the movement of the background to create more motion blur.


Now you've got me thinking. I'll try using a shorter focal length while at the same time getting closer to the subject and see what happens. 


Can someone please explain dumb me what does focus at "-3ev" actually mean? Thanking in advance.

Exposure values were initially used to merely compare exposure settings, and settings independent of film speed. EV0 was defined as 1sec at f/1. In this context, it is assumed to be at 100ISO (ISO100, aka light value). EV0 light would require f/1 at 100 for 1 second or equivalent to properly expose. EV-3 is three stops darker, or f/1 at 100 for 8 seconds, or f/0.7 at 200 for 2 seconds, etc. In other words, it's dark.

Thx much. So 6d center point would focus better in low light?

As per the theory, yes.

However, I find that EV3 is the extreme of low light and I'm not sure what can be shot handheld.

I'm sure AF at EV-3 is useful to some people, but as far as I'm concerned I don't shoot too often in extreme low light. When I do, I (a) use the tripod and AF is pretty much irrelevant; OR (b) use AF assist with a speedlite. 

PS: I'm sure someone will come along denouncing me for not trying the AF at EV-3, but personally, I haven't found it too useful. I'm also yet to be faced with a situation where my 6D could achieve AF and the 5D3 could not.

EOS Bodies / Re: 1d IV vs. 7D II
« on: April 20, 2014, 09:28:14 AM »
I wouldn't call the difference in noise between the 1D IV and 70D a "wash". Compare the noise test results from DPR:

Why on God's green Earth would I compare RAW files with no NR when I never work that way and neither does anyone else?

I can't help but feel that I'm missing something. If you were working with raw files from both cameras, wouldn't the 1DIV give you a cleaner image in the final result because the RAW image itself is cleaner to begin with?

I'm not trying to be smart here ... just want to understand  :)

Photography Technique / Panning
« on: April 20, 2014, 09:22:47 AM »
I tried some panning shots today. Gear used was 5D Mark III and the 70-200 II. I shot a reasonable number of images today and these are two of the few shots that I liked. The first shot is at ISO 50, 70mm, f/2.8 at 1/50s. The second shot is at ISO 100, 70mm, f/2.8 and 1/60s. The lens was in IS Mode II.

Issues -
1) I wasn't able to generate a more streaking background despite shutter speeds which I thought were reasonably low;
2) Dropping the shutter speed lower resulted in an extremely poor hit rate;

Please suggest as to how can I improve my panning technique.

Thanks in advance,

Regards ... J.R.

Get the 85L II.

That said, assuming you love shallow DOF photography and buy the 135L now, you will certainly get the 85L II in the not too distant future. 

Lenses / Re: Canon 50L - Love or Hate?
« on: April 17, 2014, 09:16:41 AM »
I purchased a used 50L a few months back for a pretty decent price. The seller was a hobbyist and a member of the local photo club. He was struggling with the lens and wanted to get rid of it quick. I bought it in mint condition for the equivalent of approximately $ 700.

Now how can I not love this lens???  ;D

Go for the Sanyo Eneloops. You'll be surprised with the short recycle time when you compare it with your normal Duracells.

I use the Sanyo 2450 mAh in four 600EX RT speedlites and they work beautifully. They hold the charge for considerably longer too. I would have gone in for the 2550 but they weren't available at the time.

I agree with Neuro, there isn't a difference in the power output between the Duracells and the Eneloops.

If you have more than one speedlite, you may also want to buy a charger that charges more than four batteries at one time. Look around and you might find one that will charge in your car. Personally, I'm using a third party 8 cell charger.


While your image of the girl looks sharp, all I can say is, her nose occupies the right side of the "center 50%" of the image.  My previous point, had to do with the nasties that come about when you go outside that 50%, with an f/1.2 lens, shot at f/1.2.  I thought the side AF points of the 5D3, were well outside this center 50% image area.  In fact I'm pretty sure they are.  The 6D's side point is almost at this location...but would be closer to her ear ring...hardly a matter of much focus and recompose.

Not sure what you mean. The focus was on her left eye with the outer AF points

EOS Bodies / Re: 1d IV vs. 7D II
« on: April 16, 2014, 09:51:48 PM »
Hilarious  ;D

While it is true you are more limited with your AF points on the 6D, keep in mind you can focus and crop instead of recompose.

Certainly, but I'd consider it a a workaround in the extreme.

More importantly, the 6D allows for easy switch to Eg-S focus screen unlike the 5D3 - so IMO 6D actually has a significant advantage for manually focusing the f/1.2 lenses and seeing their true DOF in the viewfinder. 

Yes, the focusing screen can be installed (I have the Eg-S screen) but I'm specifically commenting on the AF which doesn't work too well with very large aperture lenses.  Comparing the 5D3 AF with the 6D MF with Eg-S screen is like comparing apples to oranges. The 5D3 outer AF points will lock on with superb precision and you would have already taken the shot and moved on to another in the same time you would be focusing manually with the 6D. 

One could argue you are looking for trouble in general if you try to autofocus at f/1.2 all the time no matter what camera you use.

All EOS cameras AF with the lenses wide open, so a f/1.2 lens will AF wide open at f/1.2 no matter what settings you use to shoot. The cross type outer AF points work extremely well on the 5D3. See below photo taken with a 5D3 with 85L II - 100% crop of the AF area also provided - I have been using this combo for quite a while now and am happy with the results.

Not saying that 6D is a bad camera, but the whinging that takes place over the AF happens deservedly so.

Edit: I'm not sure how to post the 100% crop. The 100% crop image that I can view here on CR is larger than what I see in LR with a 1:1 view - any tips on how to post the exact image? 

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS 1Ds MkIII
« on: April 16, 2014, 08:58:57 AM »
If you can get a good body for a reasonable price, why not? Personally, I liked the files out of the 1Ds III (shot briefly with it when I borrowed it sometime back). The skin tones were the most awesome thing with the 1Ds III and to me is still unmatched. Also, the files seemed sharper and smoother at the same time - not sure I'm making sense here but that was my feeling about the 1Ds III.

I wish I had one of these but $$$  :-[

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Back Button Focussing and AF Points
« on: April 16, 2014, 07:44:17 AM »
Yes it is great to be able to have the two functions, AF and shutter release work with separate buttons when you need time between locking focus and releasing the shutter.

However, personally I use both methods depending on what I am shooting. I also believe that benefits of the BBF are overhyped. For most shooting, it makes very little difference which method you use - there are situations where using BBF does little except exercising the thumb ;)

I have both the 6D as well as the 5D3. I've tried and did not like using the 50L or the 85L II on the 6D except when I was shooting with a tripod and LV. The positioning of the AF points on the 6D is such that lots of focus-recompose is needed and with the 50L and 85L II, it's just asking for trouble.

Strange as it may sound, the 135L doesn't give me nearly half as much trouble - and yes, I AFMA all my lenses using FoCal.

OTOH, I hardly ever face trouble with the outer focus points on the 5D3 - it is pointless comparing the AF systems on both cameras. The 6D isn't built for fast action shooting - you may be able to get some shots in focus, but the chances of an OOF shot are higher.

EOS Bodies / Re: New DSLR and PowerShots in May [CR2]
« on: April 07, 2014, 11:34:01 AM »
I believe next Slr will be a eos rebel/kiss/xxx series camera to replace the eos 700d.  7d replacement might come at photokina. also any word on when will canon replace ef 50mm macro? that is the oldest lens in canon line-up and needs to be replaced soon.

one of the oldest. :)
the 135mm f2.8 soft focus is from 1987 (october) if im not wrong.
and it´s still listed.

not that i need a refresh of that lens....

the 50mm f2.5 macro is from december 1987.

completely forgot about the 135mm soft-focus. although last time I talked with a canon dealer in India, I was told 135 soft focus is not available anymore in stock. probably that lens has been discontinued. even adorama doesnt have that lens listed on their site.

if you want it give me a call. it´s available here in germany. ;)

I dont want it, but a friend of mine was looking for one couple of months back. he bought a used one as new 135 soft focus were not available. In India people are dumping used cameras and lenses at crazy prices just two days back saw an advert for a used 5D mk3, seller was asking for just 95000INR(Divide by 60 for usd). even there is a used 7d with 400 f5.6l for 1,10,000 INR.

Don't trust these deals. Most of the are scams through and through with sellers located offshore. Personally. I buy used stuff only if I can personally meet the seller, inspect the gear & documents, pay cash and walk out with the gear.

Lighting / Re: Reasons to get a ST-E3-RT?
« on: April 07, 2014, 11:29:56 AM »
Thanks for the replies.

I got a used transmitter for about 40% of the price of a new one. The previous owner had managed to get a couple of scratches on the LCD which helped me bargain and bring down the price substantially.

For the price I paid, I feel this is a great accessory which has freed up one of my flashes which was consigned to be used as a non-firing master. Not sure if buy one new.

Cheers ... J.R.

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