August 22, 2014, 04:42:51 AM

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Messages - wopbv4

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1
Lighting / Re: Canon MR-14EX I vs II?
« on: July 25, 2014, 10:50:05 PM »
A bit of topic, I use the MT-24EX.
The advantage is that you can take each of the two flash heads of the mount and position them anywhere you like on small light stands.
Please be aware that this is NOT an easy flash to operate. First of all, it is not recognised by my 7D or 1DX, so you have to change all the settings on the flash it self (E-TTL works!). Furthermore, "balancing" the light is very tricky as you are working close to the subject. A change in working distance of a few centimeters will mean that you have to change the power output of the flash.

I have had great results with flowers and insect, using a macro 100 II, but it takes a lot of effort to get it right.
Furthermore, please check that the flash fits on the lens that you want to use e.g. for the 100 mm macro you need an adapter ring.

Hope this informs

Ben     

2
Animal Kingdom / Re: Yard Bird
« on: July 23, 2014, 09:49:52 AM »
Some in my backyard

3
Reviews / Re: Please help me love ef 35mm f2 IS vs 40mm pancake
« on: July 21, 2014, 12:53:57 AM »
Hi,
I think you got a lemon. I was very pleased with my 40mm until I got my 35 f2 is, which is extremely sharp from f2 and at f2.8 was sharp border to border.
This is my most used lens for street photography specially at night time

+1

I have both lenses and I like them both. If I would have to make a choice , purely on sharpness, then I would take the 35

4
Canon General / Re: Colombia
« on: July 14, 2014, 03:45:06 AM »
Hi,

My last visit was in 1996, so that is a long time ago. In those days, Medellin was very dangerous, Bogota was alright at least in the better part of town. If you have the time, fly to Carthagena, which is fantastic and super safe

5
Technical Support / Re: CF CARD speed question. Am ignorant.
« on: July 07, 2014, 12:17:34 AM »
you mention that your main concern is shooting at 12fps.
Think about the following, A RAW file is appro. 20-25 MB, so at 12 fps, you need to be able to to have a write speed of let's say 12*20=240 MB/s. The current cards do not have write speeds that can keep up with this.

So, what will happen is that the internal buffer will fill up and then things will start to slow down.
As far as I know , the 1DC and 1DX have a 1 GB buffer, so that is ~ 40- 50 RAW files, which means four seconds continuous shooting at 12 fps.


I use the 12fps a lot on my 1DX for BIF, and sofar I have never shot a sequence of more then 20- 30 photos in one go.
If I do, I notice a short delay of two , three seconds for the buffer to write to CF cards (Lexar 32Gb, 1066).

In short, the card write speed is such that it will not be able to keep up shooting 12 fps in RAW format.
What it will do, is influence the time it takes to write from the buffer to the card.


I am more worried about cards that fail. I have bought many lexar and sandisk cards all of them 16GB or 32 GB and I have had failures on both brands. Failure: unable to read/write to card, unable to format, so they end up in the bin.
This is for me the main reason to use many smaller cards instead of going for a few high capacity ones.

6
Software & Accessories / Re: Neutral Density Filters
« on: July 05, 2014, 08:46:11 PM »
So, I've recently invested in a 16-35 II. I'm looking to use an ND filter for long exposures, but I'm having trouble settling on one. [...] I've just seen a NiSi filter on amazon. 10 stop coated filter in 82mm for £49.98.

I've recently researched this (and ended up with a Heliopan 10x for  €100), so here it goes:

* for cloud blur in daylight 10x isn't enough, get a 16x, also helps for removing moving objects and improves iq since you don't need to use the smallest f

* cheap filters have worse color casts, just don't.

* you don't need a premium-coated version because a nd is there to stop light (you might get more flare though)

* most important thing: both b+w or heliopan 10x produce color casts due to infrared leakage, if you want to avoid this (it's not that easy to remove in post) get a filter with integrated hot mirror ir blocker - it costs more, but with wider lenses than 35mm you cannot stack an ir blocker with the nd filter.

Indeed the heliopan 10X produces significant color cast

7
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: to 600rt + st-e3 or not....
« on: July 05, 2014, 08:37:47 PM »
The only issue... and this is minor at best... with the 600's and the st-e3 is knowing which flash is a and which is b... I know I can just look... but I get lazy and I say screw it... I just want a 2:1 ratio and I'm good enough.  But I'd like to be able to say... set off A alone... and I probably can do it... but how doesn't come to mind.

Put labels on the flashes, and/or have a system.  A is key, B is fill, C is hair/rim, D is background, etc.  You can disable groups from the master (I use the camera menus) – that's great for setting up, so you can optimize the power for each flash (e.g., the amount of fill) in isolation for each light, all without stepping away from the camera.

I usually put my a's to my left and in the alphabetical order going from left to right... but I was lazy yesterday and didn't feel like getting up from my kneeling position. 

Press "test" button" on ste-e3 and the 600s will fire in sequence according to the groups they are assigned to.

Easy way to find out which group is which

Only in Group Mode, and they fire pretty close together, but it is a nice feature.

Indeed, sorry forgot to mention that

8
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: to 600rt + st-e3 or not....
« on: July 05, 2014, 08:28:40 PM »
The only issue... and this is minor at best... with the 600's and the st-e3 is knowing which flash is a and which is b... I know I can just look... but I get lazy and I say screw it... I just want a 2:1 ratio and I'm good enough.  But I'd like to be able to say... set off A alone... and I probably can do it... but how doesn't come to mind.

Put labels on the flashes, and/or have a system.  A is key, B is fill, C is hair/rim, D is background, etc.  You can disable groups from the master (I use the camera menus) – that's great for setting up, so you can optimize the power for each flash (e.g., the amount of fill) in isolation for each light, all without stepping away from the camera.

I usually put my a's to my left and in the alphabetical order going from left to right... but I was lazy yesterday and didn't feel like getting up from my kneeling position. 

Press "test" button" on ste-e3 and the 600s will fire in sequence according to the groups they are assigned to.

Easy way to find out which group is which

9
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: to 600rt + st-e3 or not....
« on: July 04, 2014, 12:01:43 AM »
I'm with neuro, privatebydesign, and Random Orbits on this one.  Get the 600/ST-E3-RT setup.  Everything about the reliability and power of the system is true, and the convenience of making adjustments from the camera/transmitter is wonderful.

I used to have three 580s with st2 and finally I changed over to three 600s and the ste3.
It was as if stepped into a different world. No more line of sight requirement, able to trigger the 600s over very large distances, up to 100 m  and last but not least the ease of control and setup using the camera menu is just fantastic.

Probably the best upgrade i have have done in last five years, worth every dollar

Hope this informs

Ben

10
Software & Accessories / Re: Apple to Cease work on Aperture
« on: June 29, 2014, 04:03:43 AM »
Let's hope that Apple also fixes the problem that OSX 10.9 only support 8 bits/color channel.
I complained many times about this before. Adobe, Eizo, Nec, most graphic cards.... all support at least 10 bit/color channel, the bottleneck is OSX.

11
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Macros with APS-C or Fullframe?
« on: June 28, 2014, 08:51:23 PM »
Hi,

I use a 7D and a 1DX for macro, with 100 mm macro II ISM and extension tubes.

Because of the Effectice Focal Length increase with the 7D , it gives you more freedom with a better working distance.
So, I prefer the 7D for hand held shots as long as there is ENOUGH light. I do not want to go above iso 800 with the 7D and at 1/100, F16, it gets tricky in darker areas.

So , on a rainy day, the 7D stays home and the 1DX with it's superior iso (noise) quality is the preferred choice.

If I go for the full monty, so tripod, focus stacking, extension tubes ...... then I use the 1DX because of the better IQ.

Hope this helps

P.S Canon Angle finder C ~200$ is an extremely useful tool for low to the ground shots

12
Downloaded ans installed it on my Mac Pro (latest version) and on my Macbook Pro also 2014 model.

This version of EOS Utility does not support a connect via a aUSB cable , so either LAN or wifi

What?!?
... I'm on Mac also, and this version is working with USB cable.



Deepest apologies. It does work with a USB cable. I always use LAN or Wifi, so the intro screen of EOS Utility confused me


Again sorry !!!!!

13
Downloaded ans installed it on my Mac Pro (latest version) and on my Macbook Pro also 2014 model.

Installation is flawless.
Interface looks a lot cleaner now.
I had no time to play with DPP, just opened a few files and it does what is expected.
What has improved a lot is Remote shooting via PC/MAC in EOS Utility
The camera bit has not changed, you still have to click through about a dozen of screens, but from there on life has improved a lot. the "pairing" juts works instantly and you are ready to go. The interface is soooooo muuuuuch better that is definitely worth a try.

This version of EOS Utility does not support a connect via a aUSB cable , so either LAN or wifi
Both sets of software install next to the existing versions, so you can run both.

Hope this helps a bit


Ben

14
Lenses / Re: What was your first L lens?
« on: June 16, 2014, 10:44:14 PM »
100 mm macro IS. I am surprised who many people picked this as there first L lens. It is one of the  "cheeper" L lenses , so that probably helps.

Anyway, this was the start of spending a lot of money. I bought (not in that order) 8-15 fisheye, 16-35, 24-70, 70-200, 85 F1.2, ts 24,  30 f2IS. I know that the 30 F2 is not an L lens, but it pretty damn good, I just love it.
Only disappointment I had was 17-40, just couldn't make it work for me and sold it.

Most used 24-70 and 70-200

15
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