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Messages - Drizzt321

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691
Lighting / Re: Speedlite Remote Trigger Question
« on: April 25, 2013, 07:05:14 PM »
Using the YN-622's you don't have any of the speedlites being 'master', that's what the Yongnuo triggers are for. You stick the transmitter on your hotshoe, and the receiver on the bottom of the speedlite and you have you're wireless RF TTL.

In order to get TTL you'd need a possibly very long cable, if it'd even work due to there likely being a max length for ETTL cable. Using PC-Sync triggering you have a very, very long max length, but you lose any TTL/remote setting and you need to make all the changes on the speedlite itself.

Hopefully all of that made sense. So short answer is, you don't need to worry about master/slave with that kind of wireless TTL system, however there are certain limitations. However they're a great deal, and I've heard nothing but good things, and if you eventually hit their limitations you'll work around them or there will be a new version that's fixed it or you'll just have to fork over for pocket wizards.

692
Portrait / Re: Need advice, what can I do to improve?
« on: April 25, 2013, 07:00:53 PM »
Was the off camera flash below the model? I think since these seem to be going for a natural look you need to balance the ambient light with the off camera flash and the reflector better- Ie: A lot of the shadows on her face (especially shadows cast by nose) are going UP! This just looks odd and isn't flattering on an otherwise beautiful face.

I'd suggest raising the light source higher so the shadows fall more naturally.

OP was using a reflector, not a flash. Although you're point about being careful about the shadows on the face is a good one, and just as relevant with any lighting setup.

693
Portrait / Re: Need advice, what can I do to improve?
« on: April 25, 2013, 04:33:52 PM »
I'll put in another looks pretty good. I'd say you used your reflector(s) well, although I think the other 2 posters have some good comments. While the model is pretty, there's just something in the composition, or the way she's holding herself, or something so that the images generally aren't grabbing me, even though they otherwise are reasonably good. Sorry I can't zero in on it a bit more for you.

694
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Zeiss 135mm f2 Apo Sonnar Preview
« on: April 22, 2013, 07:54:22 PM »
Looks to be a great lens, but it still has no AF, weighs a lot (2.02 lb), and costs double the current 135L price  :'(

So it'll cost as much as the next Canon 135L then? Joking, I kid. I kid. No really.

Joking aside, I'd love to get some Zeiss glass, but just too expensive for me and for what I normally do. So, perhaps some day...

695
Canon cameras contain information about all the EF lenses and the commands to send to them.  Third party lenses tell the camera that they are a Canon lens and then translate the command they receive to their lens.  This can cause even another step that adds to inaccuracy, but it can be adjusted by AFMA as well.
 
Its a lot more complex that a person might think.

Again, all of that would be solved by closing the loop. Then all you'd need is a correction for sensor/vs AF array, which would be body specific and programmed by Canon at the factory.

It is sounding like the whole phase detect AF system is fully open loop, which really surprised me. Is Nikon like this too? Do they also have an AFMA type feature on their bodies?

Wish there were a Canon engineer I could speak to this about, would be a fascinating discussion!

Even with a closed loop, you may not be able to guarantee that it will always be correct since there's long term wear and tear, if the body is sent back to be cleaned and things shift slightly...plus it'll be different if you're using it in cold weather vs hot weather since parts expand/contract and at different amounts.

696
If it was closed loop, with a second look, we would be only a few steps away from a self-learning AFMA built in into the camera. Now that would be nice, wouldn't it.
More than nice ... it'd be AWESOME!

The problem is you can't really, unless you also look at the actual image projected onto the sensor. AFMA fixes the situation where the AF detects "in focus", while due to small differences between lens + body combinations, the image projected onto the sensor is not quite in focus. So if the lens mount on the body is every so slightly thicker than the specs but still within tolerances, and the sensor is positioned ever so slightly closer to the back, then while the AF might be in focus, what is projected onto the sensor is just slightly off leading to images that might be a bit software than the might otherwise be. This is most obvious when you have a very shallow DoF, because the plane of focus is very thin where being slightly off from the focus is noticeable.

697
You say your monitor is uncalibrated? And then you export as JPG to sRGB I'm guessing? Is your image viewing application color aware? Sometimes when shifting between color spaces and your viewing application doesn't have any concept of color space, the viewed image can be off from what it really is.

698
Lenses / Re: 24-70mm upgrade?
« on: April 17, 2013, 12:30:05 AM »
I've rented the Tamron 24-70 a few times now (still saving up for it) as needed, and it's quite a good lens. AF can sometimes be a touch slower to get going than most of the rest of the L lenses I have, but in general it's quite good. Heavy though, but so is the Canon 24-70 v2.

699
Software & Accessories / Re: Adobe Lightroom 5 Public Beta Available
« on: April 16, 2013, 02:51:48 PM »
It's slow going due to general buggy-ness

My experience when trying it is quite the opposite: LR5 feels like turbo-charged, as if the build a wait loop into LR4 to make people wish for an upgrade :-> ... this and some new features like the heal/clone brush are enough to upgrade, let's hope the RC phase doesn't take the better of a year's time.

Out of curiosity: OSX or Windows? I've thus far only used it on Windows 7. May load it up on my Mountain Lion machine this evening.

It does feel peppier than 4, and I'll note that I always work each photoshoot in its own fresh catalog, so there's no "few hundred versus tens-of-thousands" effect at play.

What I meant was: getting through the entire set is slow going, because I have to restart LR every couple of frames. Most common failure has been the adjustment brush. It repeatedly stopped working, i.e. I'd select the tool but when I clicked to place it it merely zoomed in an out. Restarting the software remedied it. Other times it crashed outright.

Ouch, that sounds quite buggy. If I keep hearing this, I might wait for the next beta or RC before trying it out.

700
Lenses / Re: EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x Availability
« on: April 16, 2013, 01:33:29 PM »
So over 8 lbs? Yikes. :o

Holy cow, not that I'd be in the market for a 10k lens, but I'm wondering what users Canon has in mind - at this weight, most photo-journalistic or quick action shots seem to be impossible?

But probably it's really a small pro sports (and maybe wildlife?) market, and those few people are fine to shell out that money for top notch iq & reach flexibility.

Until you put it on a monopod/tripod and shoot from the side of a major sports event or out stalking wildlife. Or you're a paparazzi and needs to be able to go from shouting "Hi there" to being so far away as to be unnoticeable.

701
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Confusion about Macro Photography
« on: April 16, 2013, 12:39:29 PM »
The definition I've heard is when your subject is reproduced on your recording medium (film or digital sensor) near or at 1:1 or better. So if your subject is 5mm long, it's near or at 5mm long on your recording medium. Or possibly more, so if it's 2:1 magnification, it's 10mm long instead of 5mm.

702
Technical Support / Re: MacBook Pro : Best RAW Processing Software?
« on: April 16, 2013, 12:36:26 PM »
Well, there's RAW processing, and then there's assent management (e.g. keeping track of all those photos you're taking). DPP is pretty decent software for general RAW processing. Not fantastic, but for a free tool it's quite good. Then there are other standalone processors like Photoshop (really Adobe Camera RAW which imports into Photoshop). Finally, there's full image processing & catalog management such as Lightroom, Aperture, and Capture One. Most people choose Lightroom or Aperture, although having just checked Capture One actually isn't too expensive at $300, but from my understand it's definitely geared towards the working professional and tethered capture for photoshoots.

For myself, I use Lightroom with very occasional edits in Photoshop.

703
You're welcome! Comes from hanging around film guys too much. Sometimes it seems that's all there is here in LA, but really just the friends I have.

I'm in L.A. too. I hear you... seems like half my friends are either shooters, editors, or screenwriters. After years of resisting the dark side, I'm looking at getting into the business myself. But I still have a lot to learn.

Good luck, there is some _expensive_ equipment out there for video. Even more so than for stills, especially if you start going cinema lenses and such. I've flirted with it a bit here and there, but so far mostly stayed away unless my friends said "hey, we need your help", which really means I have a 5d2/5d3 and they want to borrow them :)

704
Software & Accessories / Re: Adobe Lightroom 5 Public Beta Available
« on: April 15, 2013, 08:03:01 PM »
From what I read it looks like performance in general, and especially in the Develop module has been a major focus of this version. Definitely going to check this out!

705
I'm a video noob. And I'm curious... What's wrong with shooting at 60fps?

I understand how ND filters work with aperture, but if slo-mo is what you want, why would you shoot at 30fps with an ND filter, rather than 60fps without one?

Nothing wrong with shooting at 60fps, in fact it's often used so that in post-production you cut the output framerate in half to get 30fps output so you double the time it takes, which give slow-motion.

Beyond that, the general rule in video is to get a 180-degree shutter which gives a nice, smooth look you shoot at 1/(shutter speed * 2). So for 30fps you shoot with a shutter of 1/60, and with 60fps you shoot at 1/120, or as close to that as you can get (so 1/125 on most DSLRs). So the only way to control exposure is with ISO or aperture, or to use ND filters to cut the amount of light. Since the OP wanted a very shallow DoF he needed to use some ND filters to cut the light to allow his aperture to be wider since he undoubtedly had his ISO set very low (100-200). Since he had no ND filters, he had to raise the shutter speed significantly. This can give video a more stilted look, since every frame is much 'sharper' and there won't be any motion blur like you can sometimes get with the slower shutter speeds.

Very well explained! Thank you. I'm saving up for a variable ND filter.

You're welcome! Comes from hanging around film guys too much. Sometimes it seems that's all there is here in LA, but really just the friends I have.

I'd take a look at http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=14219.0 thread in which there's a good video about variable-ND filters. They may be useful, but they also have their downsides.

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