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Messages - Drizzt321

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946
Lenses / Re: Long lens recommendation for surveillance.
« on: December 17, 2012, 02:19:00 PM »
What does this mean: "Oh, and doesn't Canon have some kind of strong signing of an image that it comes from a person/camera? Maybe he should look into that, since it probably would help with chain of custody kind of thing for any evidence." Strong signing?
Canon offers a Data Security Kit for some cameras, although a quick google suggests it's been cracked.

Yea, that's what I was referring to. Too bad to hear it's been completely cracked.

Oh, and maybe he should also get the GPS logger for the 1DX/5d3 if that's what he gets? That will help place the location of where he's shooting, and I believe even a digital compass to say which direction he's shooting in.


How far away does he need to do surveillance?
This is the question.  Because it determines the focal length of the lens.  The ultimate low light telephoto is probably the 200 f/2 ($$$), but whether that is the appropriate focal length depends on the subject distance.

Pro-level tripods are big and easy to spot.  Leaning the camera on something sturdy, perhaps with a bean bag, may be more practical.  Or perhaps a monopod or a very short tripod/stand, like what some sports photographers use for their remote cameras. 

The essentials are going to be:
- high res, high ISO camera = Canon 5D3, 1DX, 6D, (or Nikon D4, D800, D600?)
- wide aperture (f/2.8 or faster) prime or zoom with image stabilization, probably a discrete non-white lens (Nikon, Sigma) or white lens with an appropriate dark cover.
- practice focusing; practice steadying the camera.

Depending on the distance, a camera with quiet shutter mode may be of use (5D3, 6D).  Also, it will be important to learn how to turn off / tape over anything that lights up on the camera.

The 200 f/2.0 would probably be overkill, although I'd love to own one :)  The 70-200 2.8 IS would probably do just as well, and be much cheaper as well. Add on the 2X TC, and you get the 140-400, even though it does go to f/5.6 it probably could still be usable at high ISOs like on the 5d3/1DX.

Great point about the big tripod. A beanbag on a car/wall or good quality monopod would be less obvious and easier to move around with. I'd also make sure to be using the lens-hood, even though it'll make it bigger and bulkier, it might help prevent reflections off of the front element of the lens. Most photographic lenses aren't made with the non-reflective coating like military/surveillance binoculars/scopes generally have on them.

947
Lenses / Re: 2.8 vs F4
« on: December 17, 2012, 12:39:40 PM »
Is it like freeway numbers? Take the 55 to the 5 to the 10 the 15 to the 395 or take CA55 to I5 to I10 to I15 to US395. :-X

You left out the 405 to the 101 to the 170 to the 118 to the 210 :P

948
Lenses / Re: Long lens recommendation for surveillance.
« on: December 17, 2012, 12:37:06 PM »
How far away does he need to do surveillance? As Neuro said, the 600 f/4 with 2X TC on the 1DX or 1Dm4 for the 1.3x FOV crop. Don't forget to get one of those lens wraps to hide the great BWL if that's a concern. If he's at closer distances. you can go for the other, shorter primes, or go for the 100-400 for more versatility between closer and further reach. Oh, and don't forget he should get a really good tripod or other support devices if he's going to be shooting at night with the BWL glass. Hmmm...the other thing might be a good laptop which he tethers to the camera to view the images on a larger screen.

Oh, and doesn't Canon have some kind of strong signing of an image that it comes from a person/camera? Maybe he should look into that, since it probably would help with chain of custody kind of thing for any evidence.

949
Nice work :)

I've started doing a similar thing with my 5D mk3. The last attempt of mine, taking 325 images over 4 hours ended up with heavy dew after image 24  :'(

What lens did you use?

I was worried about fogging up, but I got lucky. I think the combination of a cold camera (matching the temp outside), and the wind bowing around the lens kept it clean. I was shooting on the 24mm 1.4 II, which is one of my favorite lenses

Oh, I love that lens. I'm hoping to get one sometime, but I've got a 24-70 (looking at the Tamron, I'm pretty impressed so far), 70-200 2.8 IS v2 to acquire first. Then I can start going after the lovely, lovely primes :)

950
Canon General / Re: DxO Mark explained
« on: December 17, 2012, 03:03:21 AM »
the d800 is equal to 5dmk3  up to 12800iso, i have them , i have tested them and compared them step by step and Im talking raw files.

this is 5dmk3 together with 70-200/4 and Nikon d800 with the new zoom 70-200/4  6400iso, my purpose was to se if Nikons new zoom is good as Canons.
Nikon file size down sampled to Canons 5dmk3 and  latest Camera Raw
canon to the left

Not saying your method isn't valid for you, but remember as you sample downward, you remove more and more of the noise that appears. So if you regularly use the D800 files at the 5d3 size resolution, you may see similar or better performance for some of the higher ISOs, while if you often use the full resolution, you'll be more likely to see the noise in the D800. Try down sampling both to 18, or 12, or some other size and see what happens to the noise in both. For example, when I export for the web (1200px long edge), often much of the noise disappears, unless it was truly horrible to begin with.

I think this is the real power of the newer generation(s) of high megapixel-high ISO sensors. The ability to get pretty good files straight out of the camera at full resolution, and be able to down-sample to a smaller resolution and get stunning results in lighting that would previously be considered next to impossible to shoot in.

951
Very awesome :) Thanks for sharing. What'd you do for power? Was that on just the 2 batteries in the grip? They lasted the whole 6 hours of continuous shooting in that cold? Wow!
The 1DX only takes a single battery, and it is different from the batteries in the 5D's (maybe someone here can explain what makes them different as I'm not entirely sure). I was worried that the cold might zap it a little quicker, but it held up just fine. At the third hour I swapped out for a fresh one, but there was still a bar left.

1D-series use 3 cells in series (~11V), compared to 2 (7.2V) for others. In terms of mAh, the higher voltage gives 50% more capacity in theory, but if you calculate energy density, it comes to same number. So it's all about volume, and 1D batteries are roughly same size than 2 "standard" batteries, thus giving roughly twice the capacity compared to one normal.

Cold hurts batteries, at ~-15C (~0F) you typically get only 50% of the nominal capacity.

I knew is twas higher voltage, didn't realize that the 1D only took 1 battery, I thought with it's built-in grip would take 2 like the other battery grips.

952
Reviews / Re: Review - Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD with Pictures
« on: December 16, 2012, 10:55:33 PM »
The focusing is a bit slower than the L lenses I've used (24-105, 135, 17-40, rented 14L, 24-70L v1, 70-200 2.8 IS v2). Not bad really, but not snappy like I'm used to. I shot most of the night in AI-Servo, since they were dancing and moving all around. As I said the lighting was quite challenging, but even when the AF points I was using was over the subject in decent lighting, I always felt like I had to wait a second or two for the camera to lock focus and start tracking. Quite annoying actually, and nothing something I'm used to. Part of it may have been, as stated above, my fingers rested right on the focusing ring so I may have confused it.

Leaving aside the IQ, if I can't figure out the AF in this kind of lower light, I might have to not get this lens, which would make me sad as this is exactly the environment I'd use this in. I'll try using my 24-105 briefly in the same lighting conditions to see if it shows similar hesitation, and if so it's the camera/lighting, and not the lens and I'll have to test out in other dim lighting conditions.

FYI, the low light AF Lock issue probably isn't the lens, it's the 5D3.  That's why TWI didn't have AF problems.  If you look around on this forum, the canon forums, etc you'll find a LOT of low light AF complaints with the 5D3 using any lens.  Your comments sound a lot like the same thing.  Some bodies seem to be affected more than others.  I myself had to return my first copy of the 5D3 it was so bad.  So it very well may have nothing to do with the lens.

Yea, that's kinda what I was feeling by the end of the 2nd night. I expect normally there would even be somewhat more light. It was just exceptionally bad lighting.

953
Very awesome :) Thanks for sharing. What'd you do for power? Was that on just the 2 batteries in the grip? They lasted the whole 6 hours of continuous shooting in that cold? Wow!

954
Reviews / Re: Review - Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD with Pictures
« on: December 15, 2012, 05:13:29 PM »
Yea, lighting conditions were cray. but I got some good shots! Anyway, I think I will be getting it, as I said.

Whenever you do get the 5d3, I would recommend holding onto the 5d2. Backup camera is always a good thing, and you can always 2-gun it, put one lens on one, and another on the other so you don't have to wait to switch lenses before continuing to shoot. Put a wide/super-wide on the 5d2, and your normal or telephoto on the 5d3. The great part is you can share both CF cards, AND batteries!

That is what I am leaning towards.  I do something similar with my 60D, but it works less well now that I have reoriented my lens collections towards all FF glass.  Fortunately my 60D does share batteries with the 5D already, but not memory cards.

One thing I'm sorely missing from the 1DX that I'd love is the spot-linked metering. Obviously not so useful when shooting full manual, but if I can even leave ISO on auto with spot-linked metering, I can worry less about the subject that I'm AF on to have blown out highlights in changing lighting conditions. Ah well, when I hit the lotto I'll buy me one  ::)

You know, if you've got a spare 60D laying around, maybe you can throw MagicLantern on it and maybe play with doing some video. If you can even have just a bit of video of the ceremony, some clips of the reception party, a bit of crying when people are giving toasts, that's probably worth something good. Just need a pretty good tripod, and a lot of practice.

955
Reviews / Re: Review - Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD with Pictures
« on: December 15, 2012, 04:34:35 PM »
Yea, lighting conditions were cray. but I got some good shots! Anyway, I think I will be getting it, as I said.

Whenever you do get the 5d3, I would recommend holding onto the 5d2. Backup camera is always a good thing, and you can always 2-gun it, put one lens on one, and another on the other so you don't have to wait to switch lenses before continuing to shoot. Put a wide/super-wide on the 5d2, and your normal or telephoto on the 5d3. The great part is you can share both CF cards, AND batteries!

956
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D3 vs 6D AF in low light
« on: December 14, 2012, 07:57:41 PM »
100L

Ok, so at a minimum the center point should have used the extra high precision AF sensors. And you tried the 6d under identical conditions? It's a fact that the 6D has a more significant -ev sensitive center point. However, have you tried shooting with more points, or used AI-Servo across all points, or other similar shots where the large number of AF points and higher precision AF points would come in useful? While I'll definitely give you the center point on the 6D will almost certainly function better in extremely low light than the 5d3, I question calling it a joke.

957
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D3 vs 6D AF in low light
« on: December 14, 2012, 07:47:48 PM »
So I just sent a 6D back for issues other than AF and ISO and get in a 5D3 and after a couple of hours with it all I can say is the 5D3 center point is a joke compared to 6D in low light. 5D3 won't focus at all on fabrics in moderately low light that 6D locks in well under a second. 5D3 is noticably noiser at hi ISO as well.

What lens were you using with it? If it's the 24-105 f/4, the extra high precision points aren't used. Not sure if that's the case or not with the 6D. If you've got a f/2.8 or better lens, at the least the center AF points can use the extra high precision points.

958
Reviews / Re: Review - Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD with Pictures
« on: December 14, 2012, 07:39:34 PM »
OK, as promised, here is a blog post about using the lens in a wedding photography environment.

http://www.dustinabbott.net/2012/12/a-wedding-photographers-look-at-the-tamron-sp-24-70mm-f2-8-di-vc-usd/

Thanks Dustin! That is one thing I noticed as well about it, it's heavy!

I haven't had a chance to get up many photos from my time with it, but I'll put some up this weekend (I hope). The 2nd night shooting with it went better on the AF I think, but it was still quite challenging. Unfortunately I didn't have a chance to try out better lighting conditions (You think your lighting was bad? Try ISO 6400, f/2.8, and being 1/60-1/125 with dancers moving all around and a few, seemingly almost random 'spot' lights. I'd have killed for the lighting you shot with). So, I'm not feeling as bad about the AF, and I'll probably get this lens in the next couple of months.

959
The 135L vignettes at F/2 on FF. On your 550D, It doesn't see this because of the crop sensor and the 5D will show this. I believe it just the learning curve of getting used to the MK3, and how the Camera "behaves". You might have to expose more to right or stop down to remove the vignette.

Have you tried turning on peripheral illumination correction? Or added the 135L profile to the camera (Looks like it's not). On your JPGs this can help reduce the vignetting, although it's (more or less) just boosting the edges exposure before storing it as a JPG.

With the overall dimmer images, what settings would you normally have shot on your 550D? Those should still be valid, but you are able to go up to a much higher ISO and still get pretty clean shots. You can also change around the metering modes which would affect the Auto-ISO on M which it performs. If I recall, there's some (artificial) limitations that Canon has done with Auto-ISO on M mode. With the Metering, most of the time (depends on mode) it'll take what's in the center of the image and weight that a bit more towards the determining the correct exposure. Personally, I'd go with something like 1/500, f/2-f/4, ISO 3200. That'll give you pretty good shutter speed, and if you can managed to stop down a bit to f/4 it'll give you a bit more DoF which will be useful in getting more of your subject(s) in focus. Using this calculator, at f/2 and 20 feet, your DoF is .79 feet. Pretty shallow. If you go to f/4 you get 1.57 feet which gives you a lot more leeway.

Final words of advice, experiment! The 5d3 is a vastly different beast than your 550D, and congratulations on getting it. I know going from my 5d2 to 5d3 was a pretty large change with the somewhat different ergonomics and the vastly more complex AF system. It'll take you at least a few weeks of constant shooting in a variety of situations before you'll start getting comfortable with the AF system. Don't be afraid to experiment with the different modes and settings, it's a fantastic system and you'll get it!

960
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1D X AF in Low Light action
« on: December 14, 2012, 11:42:25 AM »
@Shawn L

Yes, if I remember correctly, the center column (in landscape orientation) is double cross type, with extra sensitive points if used with a compatible lens (I'd be 24-70 v2 and 135L are). Do you have FoCal software? I'm pretty sure you can do a test on all of the AF points to determine which one(s) are reading with high accuracy, and which ones aren't giving as great of accuracy. Something I've been meaning to do, but I'd be it takes quite a while so I haven't taken the time.

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