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Messages - Quasimodo

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31

I might have given up to easily... Which brand do you use?

I use Sensor Swabs (Brand)  and moisten them with eclipse fluid.  I've had a lot of junk get on my sensors from the pec pads I bought, and from the pre-moistened Sensor Swabs.
Good sensor swabs are not cheap, and when it takes 5 of them plus the expensive eclipse fluid, I cringe. $32 for a dozen  ff sized  dry ones plus you need the eclipse fluid.
 
Most of the time, a rocket blower does the job, but I've had some gunk that was difficult to remove on my 5D MK II and my 1D MK III.
 
Amazon has them.

I am wondering if those are the ones I have. I have to check when I get home from the office :)

32
The next thing must be for me to learn how to make an action in LR and PS6 to remove dirty spots from the sensor without leaving any trace :) It is a tedious job to attack one and one of them....


You could try an action a little earlier in your workflow…   ;)

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2010/04/how-to-clean-a-camera-sensor


lol! You don*t think that I have not tried that route... :) I have, both blowing, dry swab and wet swab on my 1Ds III and 5D II, but I am pretty sure I made it worse than it was. I am scared to apply to much pressure that might destroy the sensor.

 
It can be tough to remove some dirt from sensors.  I've had to use five or more swabs on a particularly dirty one.  Its easy to make it worse if you stop with just one or two swabs and the sensor is still dirty.  Keep using clean swabs until the job is finished.
Also be aware that some swabs do introduce fibers and other nasty stuff.  they are not all equal.  I've had pre-moistened swabs do this while dry swabs of the same brand that I moistened with eclipse were fine.


I might have given up to easily... Which brand do you use?

33
The next thing must be for me to learn how to make an action in LR and PS6 to remove dirty spots from the sensor without leaving any trace :) It is a tedious job to attack one and one of them....


You could try an action a little earlier in your workflow…   ;)

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2010/04/how-to-clean-a-camera-sensor


lol! You don*t think that I have not tried that route... :) I have, both blowing, dry swab and wet swab on my 1Ds III and 5D II, but I am pretty sure I made it worse than it was. I am scared to apply to much pressure that might destroy the sensor.   

34
So if I am understanding this correctly: hot, dead... pixels does not matter so much in practical life, as long as there are no negative effects of LR or CS remove them. I have never seen any such thing on my pictures, which makes me believe that I probably have some, but that the software has taken care of it for me.

The next thing must be for me to learn how to make an action in LR and PS6 to remove dirty spots from the sensor without leaving any trace :) It is a tedious job to attack one and one of them....

35
Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: January 21, 2014, 05:38:52 AM »
Here is an old picture, framed on an early september morning 1967, shot with Kodachrome II and my brand new Pentax Spotmatic with a Takumar 50mm 1.4 lens.
The horses are grazing at the Bygdøy Royal Estate, Oslo.

Beautiful shot :)

I have been there many times, although I was not born when you took this photo :)

36
Canon General / Re: Why Scott Kelby Switched to Canon
« on: January 21, 2014, 05:27:20 AM »
I also bought Kelby books. Terrible waste of money and paper, that haunts and pains me for a few years already, every time I see trees :'(
Personally I'll try to keep out of my mind that switch.

On my part I love his books. Imho, they are well written, humorous, and I have learned lot's from him. I actually got a book by him this very Christmas. I have a few camera books, but the one I got now was the first that showed how he worked in studio (detailed instructions). And this is where many books stops.. And then he showed step by step how he PP the files. (you can even download his pictures to walk with him step by step.

People in this forum have different levels and skills, but for me this book was perfect. I could really not care any less if he shoots for Canon or Nikon or whoever :)

37
Please close this thread and delete my acc. It's wasting my time and for some reason making you suspicious.......

Oh btw plz stop smoking that stuff it's making you paranoid ;)

And I thought the message before the last two was your last? The This is my last post argument; only works if you are actually able to pull it off :)

Btw: I thought it was sad that you wanted to leave this community because your last thread was pulled, a society which on my part has learned me so much, but hey...?

38
Canon General / Re: Why Scott Kelby Switched to Canon
« on: January 20, 2014, 03:56:39 PM »
OK, let's really discuss this. Canon wants Scott's social media reach. They offered him(the contract reads his company but remember he owns it) a mid 6 figure sum to "sponsor " him. That of course includes a ton of "permanent" loaners(nikon and canon give away very little so you don't sell it but it is loaned forever) but camera gear in the grand scheme of things isn't that much to companies the size of Canon, Nikon or Kelby publishing(in 2007 it was a $20 million a year company, imagine how big it is today http://usatoday30.usatoday.com/tech/products/2007-05-08-kelby-photoshop_N.htm).
Canon and Nikon have been dumping sponsored working pros and replacing them with big social media guys because the average amateur is an internet geek and get their info from non pros like Rick and Scott. Times are changing and he who yells the loudest wins. Kelby isn't a pro and has found a small stock agency to be sponsored by because he gets them a ton of publicity, not because the photos are good(imaging him turning those pictures into SI?) That said he is a GREAT teacher. Absolutely amazing teacher so it makes total sense Canon will pay for that placement. Nikon is a much smaller company and couldn't match that deal. I expect Canon and and on a smaller scale Nikon to be doing more of this in the near future. Fans of both sides want it to be about the cameras but it's not, it's about business.
So let's cut the ergonomics talk and call it what it was, a great business deal for him, his company and Canon.


While you might very well be right, I mean who knows... I seriously doubt that it was because Nikon could not match the offerings. Ego*s like I am sure that Scott Kelby has a lot of, tend to be very emotional characters imhe. It does not take more than a new mid-manager who takes him for granted to switch between the two systems.

Now that Kelby has jumped in with Canon with both legs really ties him to a brand. It now becomes really hard for him to switch system without being the laughingstock.

39
Canon UK replied to my email concerning dead pixels.
'In reference to your email I understand you were received 2 EOS 700D which had a dead pixel using a long exposure. If it is the LCD screen which has a dead pixel that could indeed be the case. Allthough the lcd monitor is precise manufactured there may be a few dead pixels.

If you have imported the images onto your computer and they are showing dead pixels then the camera needs to be send in for service.

Once again, thank you for contacting Canon. We trust this information is of use to you. Should you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact again.'

I guess the guy was not a UK rep, as his reply was a little bit awkward. But he clearly says send in the camera if I am seeing dead pixels.

I have had 4 700d bodies. All 4 have had pixel issues. My previous 1000d and 600d were fine. So my conclusion is that canon are shipping dodgy sensors or I am very unlucky.

Are you sure they are Dead pixels (Black).
There are Stuck pixels (Red all the time), Dead pixels (Black), and Hot pixels which can only be seen after a long exposure, and are normal. 
If you post a image, perhaps someone can help, but right now, it sounds like you are not defining the issue correctly.
http://photographylife.com/dead-vs-stuck-vs-hot-pixels


Thanks for the link. Very informative.

40
Lighting / Re: Looking for a macro ring light for 100mm L
« on: January 18, 2014, 08:50:43 PM »
if you have a flashgun already the rayflash is a good ring flash for around £150. Wonderful ring flash for macro, portraits, anything!


You can cheaper versions on amazon for around £40 but I can't comment on the cheap knockoffs quality

I know the ray´s. But would you not have troubles with the famiy of angles?

41
Lighting / Re: Looking for a macro ring light for 100mm L
« on: January 18, 2014, 02:17:29 PM »
Do you know if there are any options where there are two arms? A buying version of the DIY of Surapon. I was thinking today after posting here, that it would be great if one existed with a type of arm like the gorillapod; that are flexible in all directions, but still stiff enough to not move when taking a picture. Straight arms would be a good second.

BTW. What is your opinion on the family of angles point I made? I would assume that the options from Canon runs the risk of creating strong direct reflections?

There are a few options like that which turned up by searching 'macro flash bracket' on Amazon.  But...brands like CowboyStudio and DSLRKit don't inspire confidence, and the reviews are consistent with that.  There's the Novoflex UNIMARM that I'm sure would work well, but it's not cheap. 

You're right about the 'family of angles' issue.  Plus, the reflections from a ring light are quite characteristic and can be distracting if not removed in post.  Also, when considering reflection angles you have to account for convex shapes. With water drops, insect eyes, etc., you're almost certain to get reflections in the shot no matter how you position the flash(es).

Personally, I have a pair of Wimberley F-2 macro brackets (in addition to the RRS B91-QR, and the Manfrotto 233B which I don't use much and should probably sell).  They are very flexible (not quite a gooseneck arm, but close). I usually use them with the MT24-EX twin heads for more positioning flexibility than the Canon ring that attaches to the end of the lens.  However, they are strong enough to support a 600EX-RT.

Thank you Danski, and Neuro. The F2 looks quite promising, and I like the fact that you can use it with the 600.

I did not think about the convex shapes, so it would be hard no matter what, but at least you can get more pleasing results. 

Again, thank you for your answers :)

Gerhard.

42
Actually after taking a look, it seems you've blown the highlights by having your flash too close? and tried to recover with a pink overlay? Maybe not highlights cause its in a weird place? You definitely did something dirty though.

+ 1


Having a bad day Cinto?

I looked at your photos and thought "wow, these are great", and then you ruined it all for me by following up with consecutive disrespectful criticisms about Surapon's photos and technique.

Not cool.

43
Lighting / Re: Looking for a macro ring light for 100mm L
« on: January 18, 2014, 11:31:42 AM »
Working tanks in aquariums, I prefer to put a standard flash onto a flash bracket since greater illumination is needed

If you have a Speedlite already, this can be a relatively inexpensive solution.  Lots of flexibility with the Manfrotto 233B, mini ballhead, and 3rd party OC-E3, for under $100.

Do you know if there are any options where there are two arms? A buying version of the DIY of Surapon. I was thinking today after posting here, that it would be great if one existed with a type of arm like the gorillapod; that are flexible in all directions, but still stiff enough to not move when taking a picture. Straight arms would be a good second.

BTW. What is your opinion on the family of angles point I made? I would assume that the options from Canon runs the risk of creating strong direct reflections?

44
Dear Friends
Yes, If I shoot the beautiful flower in the bright sun light, but want the Super dark or Black Back ground= What should I do ?.
Yes Very easy---Use Flashes and  bright support lights for both sides of the  flower( Spot Lights at the flower only), Shoot  with High speed shutter, And Carry the Black umbrella  to shade the larges back ground= Yes, The Back ground that in the shade of umbrella and do not get the light from flashes , will be black back ground from the Effected of high speed shutter.
Enjoy.
Surapon



Surapon...thanks so much for taking your time to share this great idea with us!

Also, I just have to say that it is such a delight to follow your posts and commentary.  Your enthusiasm, passion, and positivity are very refreshing, and a great addition to this forum.  IMO.

Thanks again,
North

+ 100 Hear Hear

45
Lighting / Re: Looking for a macro ring light for 100mm L
« on: January 18, 2014, 05:03:45 AM »
I don´t know the actual cost (you would have to ask him), but Surapon in this forum has made a DIY solution, that might work for you. http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=19127.0;topicseen

In addition to being probably cheaper, I would with my limited knowledge say that you better can control or avoid the family of angles (thus avoiding or getting the direct reflections you want).

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