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Messages - Quasimodo

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571
to blow out the background you need your background lights to be at least 2 stops over your key light
so you might be best off using your elinchroms to blow the background and the speedlights as the main lights

but you dont want your back lights too much over the top otherwise you will start getting light wrap which can look bad so basically you want some control. A light meter is an easy way to tweak all this when you are starting out but after not a very long period of time you just know what setting will get you in the ballpark and then its just fine tuning tweaks.

read this in detail and all will become clear
http://www.zarias.com/white-seamless-tutorial-part-1-gear-space/

Thank you very much!

How do I shoot off the elinchrom AND the speedlights at the same time? I have an ST-E2 that I have used on my four speedlights (600 RT EX, 2x 580 EX II, and a 430 EX II). Now with the Elinchrom I have another remote control on top of camera to trigger the strobes. Can I use that to set off my flashes, or can I use the ST-E2, or the 600 RT EX (without actually shooting light from this) as a remote for both the elinchrom strobes and my non-radio canon speedlights? I am guessing that ST-E2 on top of my camera, and the remote trigger for the elinchrom in my hand shooting off the same time is too hard?
the easiest way is to fire the speedlights with your st-e2 and enable the optical slave on the elinchrom units
check the manual for the heads you have but it should be the button with a picture of an eye then the elinchroms will detect the speedlights firing and fire themselves when they see the flash

forget the elinchrom trigger here unless you also have the expensive elinchrom recievers which can be plugged into your speedlights

Thanks Will T :)

Wickidwombat.. I will go straight to the studio to check it out now. Thanks a lot for your advice :) I will report if I manage this :)

572
to blow out the background you need your background lights to be at least 2 stops over your key light
so you might be best off using your elinchroms to blow the background and the speedlights as the main lights

but you dont want your back lights too much over the top otherwise you will start getting light wrap which can look bad so basically you want some control. A light meter is an easy way to tweak all this when you are starting out but after not a very long period of time you just know what setting will get you in the ballpark and then its just fine tuning tweaks.

read this in detail and all will become clear
http://www.zarias.com/white-seamless-tutorial-part-1-gear-space/

Thank you very much!

How do I shoot off the elinchrom AND the speedlights at the same time? I have an ST-E2 that I have used on my four speedlights (600 RT EX, 2x 580 EX II, and a 430 EX II). Now with the Elinchrom I have another remote control on top of camera to trigger the strobes. Can I use that to set off my flashes, or can I use the ST-E2, or the 600 RT EX (without actually shooting light from this) as a remote for both the elinchrom strobes and my non-radio canon speedlights? I am guessing that ST-E2 on top of my camera, and the remote trigger for the elinchrom in my hand shooting off the same time is too hard?

573
The short answer is that they don't translate.  Guide number factors in distance and is affected by the zoom head on the flash (i.e. the 580 and 600 flashes have the same light output, but the GN of the 600 is rated higher because the head zooms to 200mm, while the 580's zoom only to 105mm.  Watt-seconds ignores distance, and furthermore, the actual useful output of a monolight is determined by modifiers (e.g. the angular coverage of the reflector).

But, for comparison purposes, most estimates put the output of a 580EX II as equivalent to about 60-80 watt-seconds.

Thank you Neuro. I shall never be easy should it...?:)

So basically, I am now with at least four times the strenght. They have a range of F stops from 1-5, so I will just try to put it as as little as possible and hope for the best :) My back is killing me for carrying all the equipment back and forth (having no place to lock them in at work), so it would be great to be able not to carry the speedlights (the elinchrom is my workplace' property, thus stationary).

574
I have a set up in an improvised studio at work where I tried to blow out the background with a 600 and a 580, and using my other 580 as main light on the right side, and my 430 as the fill light. The main light and fill works great, but I have seen that the blow-out-the-background light works only so and so (they are both on full blast (+3). The problem is that they give only a semiblasted background, and the recharge time is slow, thus making me loose several shots. I have now borrowed a couple of Elinchrom sets at 200 watts per lamp, hence my intitial question at how does they translate from what I own myself?

Second, When testing the set up today I saw that it was way too bright/stronger than what I am used to with my canon speedlights.. but I think that I can reduce the power by changing aperture (I was shooting at ISO 165, Aperture 5,6, and 1/250 and this worked great for the sidelight and fill). I am thinking maybe in the vicinity of f11 now to get it equal?

Thank you,

G.

Maybe my question is not coherent here, but my problem is that I have never shot with strobes before, and I am used to my canon speedlights and their power..

575
Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: January 21, 2013, 03:48:43 PM »
The totally white shots reminded me of why I left Minnesota for California.

LOL, I have been in Minnesota several times, and it feels colder than Norway due to the lack of moutains :)

Those last two were my bad because I think they were shot with a Nikon.  But this one was shot on the 19th with the Canon 5D3 and the great 70-300L.  I love that lens (@150.  Same location as first shot.

I actually like this shot much better, and not because the previous were shot with a Nikon, lol. I could care less. However, I like the overall composition on this one. I have actually never tried the 70-300L, but I hear great things about it. I think it is because I never really thought of it as an option since I have the 70-200L II and a 2x III TC, which I think (?) gives me at least equal quality and a 100mm more in focal lenght with a AF speed that is not really slow at all :)

These days I am having a great time with a lens I am borrowing for an undefined timespan, the 200 F2L and it is great, although quite heavy, bulky and a AF sound that you notice. There is a something je ne sais qua about it.

I agree that you made a great choice moving south, although the twin cities are beautiful, and I still regret that I did not bring a camera last time I visited the St. Paul Cathedral.

576
Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: January 21, 2013, 01:30:35 PM »
The totally white shots reminded me of why I left Minnesota for California.

LOL, I have been in Minnesota several times, and it feels colder than Norway due to the lack of moutains :)

577
Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: January 21, 2013, 12:56:40 PM »
Got a few nice wintry landscapes lately... :o


Early Morning - 20th January 2013 by K3ntFIN, on Flickr


Cold & Damp - No. 6 by K3ntFIN, on Flickr


Cold & Damp - No. 2 by K3ntFIN, on Flickr

What do you think? :)

As a Norwegian I feel your pictures very well :)
Very nice

578
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Ultra long daytime exposures - 5D mkiii
« on: January 21, 2013, 12:05:27 AM »
I was able to track down an 82mm ND110 for my 16-35mm f/2.8L II from www.2filter.com.  The website seems a bit sketchy, but I had no issues (other than the fact that they sent me a Scheider optics filter instead of the advertised "B+W" filter).  Below are some shots I took this weekend with my 24-105 using the B+W ND110.  The first is an 88 second exposure (before the sun went down).  The second is a 4 minute exposure


Atlanta cityscape sunset by ryotnlpm, on Flickr


[19/365] - Atlanta skyline from the Jackson Street Bridge by ryotnlpm, on Flickr

Nice pictures!

I believe that B&W is produced by Schneider. When I got my slim UV filter for my 16-35 II it came with a plastic protector which had the name Schneider optics on it, but the name on the filter itself said B&W.

579
Landscape / Re: Need critique for future improvement
« on: January 20, 2013, 11:54:50 PM »
Hello, im newbie in photography, im love to capture landscape... here im attaching some picture for C&C. i'm very pleased to hear critique from you all to improve my picture.

tqvm.. love u all.. peace  :)

Not a critique, but the second picture is magical! :)

580
At the Coca-Cola museum in Atlanta, GA


Very cool :)

581
Lenses / Re: I want a 135mm 1.8 IS L
« on: January 18, 2013, 04:52:48 PM »
Where's RLPhoto? He is ready to ditch his Holy trinity member for this baby

Haha, when I saw the title of this thread, I really thought that it's RLPhoto who started it :D

+ 100

583
Hi

584
Dear Original Poster,

If this is your first experience with White Balance ... stop looking at this post and immediately run into the other room where your significant other is sitting and give them a big hug.  Then swiftly seize your camera and using whatever settings are full auto (green box) take a bunch of pictures.  Burst, Timed, Horizontal, Vertical, anything.  Then download them onto your computer and look at them together and talk about the great expressions, and the fun you had taking the pictures, and then go get an ice cream.  When your done, come back home and snuggle and then right before bed, when you are sitting up reading a book... reach over, grab your camera, and snap another few pictures under the soft white light of the lamp on the nightstand.  Maybe even splurge with a couple of hilarious self portraits together.  Then go to bed and dream about how you'll look at these great pictures tomorrow. 
This is immensely important.  If you don't do this, you'll be missing out on your last chance to take a picture and ... deep breath everyone ... not be critical of it.  The fact is, white balance is an enormous rat hole.  Once you start down this path you won't ever go back to that happy place where a sorta exposed, lamp lit, color suppresed, low contrast image will do.  Oh no my friend, from now on its not about taking pictures ... its about taking pictures with grey cards and modifiers and obsessing about Kelvins.  In fact, you wont even be able to walk into someones house without thinking 'You really should have used color balanced 5500k bulbs in those lamps with white shades'.  And for awhile folks will think ... maybe he's got something there.  But then after hanging out with you and your custom white balanced buddy's for a night, the rest of your friends will start to think ... 'Man, if I'm not wearing a shirt with a red ring on it or holding a grey card this guy doesn't even notice me'.  And they couldn't be farther from the truth because you and I both know you for sure noticed them.  In fact, you noticed they were lit with a 2700k soft white bulb from home depot and its not doing much for their skin tones.

:)  Cheers!

LOL! Well written and funny :)

However, and I make no claim to be good at this. There are people here who have serious game in this (I have used a recycled napkin in a pinch). I got the great advice in here to buy the ColorChecker Passport by X rite, and I have to say that it is brilliant. I normally shoot with AWB (always only in RAW) for private use. However, right now I am shooting quite a few people (portraits) for a commercial campaign, and I have found that using the Colorchecker which works so well and integrated with Lightroom is saving the day and night of not having to salvage the pictures in post. All ad agencies have all adobe products, and so I shoot my pictures with the colorchecker, and I leave it to the artdirectors and designers to get it right :)

585
Lenses / Re: Sigma 35mm F/1.4 Reviews - Vignetting Disparity?
« on: January 15, 2013, 05:39:57 PM »
I also reacted on that point i Digital Picture review. I have not noticed vignetting when shooting wide open on mine.

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