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Messages - The_Arsonist

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1
Canon General / Re: People that don't shoot in manual...
« on: August 03, 2013, 12:38:14 PM »
I'm surprised to see everyone saying they only use flash in M mode. While I am normally in M for flash work, I sometimes shoot flash in Av mode with a locked ISO so that the changes in ambient light will be picked up automatically by the shutter changes. Of course, I guess that is assuming manual flash; many people probably stick to E-TTL?

Using Av for flash and with a locked ISO will affect the one thing flash photographers need to control the most... shutter speed. If we can't control our shutter speed, we can't control how much ambient is mixed with our flash.

IE: Bounced flash mixing with ambient at a reception, event or mixed lighting situation.

Yes, that's my point, let the camera choose the ambient via the shutter speed. You can control the ratio of ambient to flash with exposure compensation, and control the flash power with aperture. That way, when the ambient changes, the camera compensates while keeping the same flash ratio/power/etc.

Yeah that's great but you'll still have wildly different exposures if the meter catches a bright light, and guess what? You have to dial in expo comp, then flash expo comp. then again when the light goes away... It's great if you like to fiddle a lot with that.

I find it easier to just set my settings in M mode, then simply control the flash exposure comp of the guests with ETTL. Then I have control of the ambient and the flash will be variable to changing light to get a good exposure on the guests. This works way better and I can concentrate on composition more than twiddling dials all night.
Ah, ETTL, that's the kicker. I only have manual flashes, and I am envisioning an ambient situation where there's not going to be something throwing off the camera's metering.

2
Canon General / Re: People that don't shoot in manual...
« on: August 01, 2013, 12:19:01 AM »
I'm surprised to see everyone saying they only use flash in M mode. While I am normally in M for flash work, I sometimes shoot flash in Av mode with a locked ISO so that the changes in ambient light will be picked up automatically by the shutter changes. Of course, I guess that is assuming manual flash; many people probably stick to E-TTL?

Using Av for flash and with a locked ISO will affect the one thing flash photographers need to control the most... shutter speed. If we can't control our shutter speed, we can't control how much ambient is mixed with our flash.

IE: Bounced flash mixing with ambient at a reception, event or mixed lighting situation.

Yes, that's my point, let the camera choose the ambient via the shutter speed. You can control the ratio of ambient to flash with exposure compensation, and control the flash power with aperture. That way, when the ambient changes, the camera compensates while keeping the same flash ratio/power/etc.

3
Canon General / Re: People that don't shoot in manual...
« on: July 30, 2013, 12:34:28 PM »
I'm surprised to see everyone saying they only use flash in M mode. While I am normally in M for flash work, I sometimes shoot flash in Av mode with a locked ISO so that the changes in ambient light will be picked up automatically by the shutter changes. Of course, I guess that is assuming manual flash; many people probably stick to E-TTL?

4
Lenses / Re: Lens flare.... I want it! :)
« on: July 23, 2013, 12:49:19 PM »
I have the FL 55 1.2. It does get some nice flare, and if you use it at 1.2, the image becomes quite soft and hazy

5
Lenses / Re: 17-55mm... should I keep it or sell it???
« on: July 05, 2013, 04:11:56 PM »
I'm in a similar boat...  my 17-55 has sat in my lens cupboard for the last 6 months (since i got my 5d)...  I was saving it for my back-up camera, but now i'm thinking of selling it.

My wife is getting a 100D and I was thinking she might use it with it, but attaching it to the 100D makes the combo so heavy/unbalanced i know she won't like it much.

My 450D is more use as a paper weight...  it is so bashed up and crappy (compared to the 5D) I don't see much point keeping the 17-55 for it, since i have barely used it anyway...

I vote sell it...  That is what i'm going to do, and put the money towards something else (I can get a 24 2.8 IS for not much more than the re-sale price...  A plus for the 100D/wife and my 5D alike). :)

Another one! We could start a club! Has anyone from this thread sold theirs yet?

Sold mine at the beginning of the week on Amazon

6
Lenses / Re: 17-55mm... should I keep it or sell it???
« on: June 29, 2013, 02:30:21 PM »
We need to make a poll to see how many Canon Rumors members are currently listing their 17-55 on Amazon. I believe I make it two for Amazon US

So you are my competition...  I hope you sell yours... after I sell mine.  But I'm talking only 10 minutes or so; it doesn't have to be a long wait.

Speaking of waiting, how long has it been listed?  I have put some lenses up at 10p.m. and they sold by 11p.m. that same night... but I'm guessing I'll have to play the waiting game with this one.

It's been up for about a month, but I originally started it around $800. I've only in the past couple days put it under $750. I think at $700 it would sell pretty quick: that's what I paid for mine when I got in on Craigslist a couple years ago.

7
Lenses / Re: 17-55mm... should I keep it or sell it???
« on: June 29, 2013, 01:03:28 AM »
We need to make a poll to see how many Canon Rumors members are currently listing their 17-55 on Amazon. I believe I make it two for Amazon US

8
Software & Accessories / Re: Camera RAW
« on: June 26, 2013, 12:41:48 AM »
I generally shoot RAW, but I have not always been able to get good results from it. It is something that you need to learn through experience what the benefits are, if any, for your style of shooting. For me, I generally use RAW in difficult lighting circumstances to get better dynamic range or where light temperatures may change rapidly. I will shoot JPG if I can see that I won't need to do much post processing to the image or if I don't plan on editing at all.

If your RAW editing leaves photos looking flat, try increasing the white slider if you decrease the highlights, and decrease the black slider if you increase shadows.

9
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Fuji x100(s) to Supplement an SLR
« on: May 13, 2013, 10:04:23 PM »
Thanks for the responses, everyone!

I wound put pulling the proverbial trigger on the x100s Saturday night.  It's backordered from B&H, but hopefully I'll have it in the next week or two.  While I really wanted to grab the TS-E 24mm, I ultimately decided to go with the x100s because I feel I'll get more use out of it.  And I started a 365 project a couple weeks ago, and I think I'm more likely to do well at it if I have a smaller camera with me instead of having to go out of my way to ensure I have my 5Dm3 with the appropriate lens on hand.

But I'd love to get more feedback on the x100s or sample pictures.  :-)

I ordered mine around 4/19 from B&H and got it last Friday.

10
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Fuji x100(s) to Supplement an SLR
« on: May 12, 2013, 05:26:30 PM »
Ive had the X100 for a while now. On most occasions I will prefer to use my 5D3 with the 40mm over the X100, unless I want to travel really light. To me the 5D3 is so much better at everything. The X100 is fun but mine doesnt come out too often. IQ aside my biggest annoyance with the X100 is the exposure +/- dial. I cant tell you how many times I am shooting for a while then look down and see I have changed the setting by accident. Bad location I think. While I have seen some remarkable photos come out of it, I would say I consider it more of my point and shoot camera for when I dont want to lug the 5D3 around.

I see the X100s has a reccomended max sync speed of 1/2000 while it is possible to shoot at the max speed of 1/4000. I have never shot with a leaf shutter. What kind of power settings would you use on your strobes for this kind of sync?

That largely depends on the equipment. At those speeds, many studio strobes are too slow (t.1 time) to sync that fast. Another issue is if you are using radio triggers they will become a limiting factor around 1/640 to 1/1000. The aperture also limits that; F/2 maxes at 1/1000, any faster speeds will need a smaller aperture.

11
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Fuji x100(s) to Supplement an SLR
« on: May 12, 2013, 02:53:55 PM »
I just received my x100s, which I will be using in addition to my 50D, 70-200 2.8 IS and 8mm Fisheye. The X100s is a purpose built camera; and for it's purpose, it is excellent. Much better image quality, sharpness, color, ISO usability, etc than my 50D. Especially for low light, the Fuji is an entirely different, beast than my 50D, and that's exactly what I want. I decided to get this camera instead of a 30 or 35mm 1.4 for my 50D. It is really nice having a second camera without having to drop the cash for a full-frame option (6D + Sigma 35 =~$2700 vs $1300 for the Fuji)

12
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: iPhone5 or 1Dx
« on: May 10, 2013, 12:17:59 AM »
Sell one one between your 5D2 or 1D3 and buy your Iphone 5 + 1DX.  Problem solved.

So you will give me the $5000 price difference between the 1Dx and the used 5D2 and 1D3?  If not, PROBLEM NOT SOLVED.  If I sell both, I'm still $3500 short.  Your Republican math is an epic fail.

I believe he meant that if the $300-$800 price of an iPhone 5 is the only thing holding you back from the 1dx, then either of those cameras would more than cover the price of the iPhone. As in, "I had $6.5k for a 1DX, but I had to buy an iPhone and now only have $6k and can't get the 1DX for a while"

13
Don't overlook the 30D either, there were probably more of those made and it's not that much less of a camera than the 40D. I've still got one of each, don't see a point in selling them as they just won't get me enough money to make it worth selling. I use them when I can, just to keep them operational, and they will serve as emergency or beater cameras when needed. Whenever I do use them, I marvel at just how good they were for the time, and still quite good unless you need high ISO performance (higher than 800 at least).

I agree that the 30D is a really good camera, but Canon added a ton of new features to the 40D that makes it "pop" over the 30D. The live view is nice and well as the sensor cleaning. The larger screen is always a plus and the 1.5 fps addition is always welcome. But I would have to agree, the 30D for the price right now is a very good camera.

D
The 30D doesn't really have anything over the 20D other than screen size (but the 20D is still great!). I'd say the leap from 30D to 40D was more significant

14
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Introducing the MōVI Stabilizer
« on: April 07, 2013, 02:05:48 PM »
I feel like most of the comments on this are made without realizing the degree of precision and actual mechanical workings of this device. It is not just a mechanical stabilizing rig like a Steadicam is, this is a smart, microchip/software controlled motorized rig. For everyone scoffing at the cost, consider these points
  • It is made of carbon fiber to keep weight down (it is the same rig they use to fly cameras from their radio controlled hexacopters)
  • There are several motorized gimbals that are controlled by the computer to keep operator motion from translating to camera motion
  • There are motors that are controlled via radio/joysticks that allow camera pan, tilt, and focus
  • It is built to handle cameras that normally are mounted on tripod heads that cost as much or more than this whole rig. Check out the Sachtler Video 25 Plus head if you don't believe that.

Then consider all the things this can do for a filmmaker that needs to work on a budget and on a time crunch. This can replace a dolly in many cases; that means no transporting and setting up dolly tracks or slider systems. It can replace the traditional head controls on cranes and jibs, and can even make replace a jib in some instances; think walking up a ladder or stairs. It can replace a Steadicam, which many people couldn't afford to even dream of including in their movies. On top of all that, it can create shots that would be completely impractical to impossible with traditional support systems. Plus, there is always the option of adding the hexacopter to this system to get aerial shots.

That being said, I'm sure the cost will come down some as more manufacturers get into this market, but people saying it should cost under a thousand bucks are completely off base. How much does adding IS to a 70-200 cost?

15
If it's even close to being as good as the new 35mm from Sigma, I'll buy it in a heartbeat. I've tried to live with Canon's 28 1.8, but something is just not right with that lens. It's either soft, has inconsistent focus, or just has strange aberrations that make it useless for me. I usually live at F/2, so hopefully this new Sigma gets nice stopped down to there.

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