March 04, 2015, 03:40:39 PM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Chris Burch

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 9
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: EOS-1D X Firmware Version 2.0.3 Released
« on: January 09, 2014, 09:19:44 AM »
This would have REALLY helped to have last week when I was shooting an outdoor wedding basically in total darkness...on New Year's Eve...when it was 32 degrees outside.  AI Servo was pretty much useless on locking onto the walking couples.  I had to use one shot (with focus assist) and walk backwards with them to get clean shots.  This update might not have improved it enough, but any boost would have helped.

PowerShot Cameras / Re: New Vixia Camcorders Official
« on: January 06, 2014, 01:31:29 PM »
One of the specs here might be inaccurate...

The Mini X doesn't seem to have any zoom capability according to the specs on the Canon website (  It appears to be a fixed focal length with either a wide or up-close option, but no variable lengths in between.

If your setup is causing the flash to fire at or near full power, it will take 2-3 seconds to recharge even with an external battery like the Propac (which I have and use regularly).  You could either slow down your rate of shooting to accommodate or make the flash do less work (change to manual, slow the shutter, increase ISO, etc.). 

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS M2 Not Coming to North America
« on: December 04, 2013, 12:13:38 PM »
I am personally quite happy to see this "upgrade" launched in the US because it allows me to keep up hope that a better version is coming here.  The new version is disappointingly low on improved features.  I REALLY REALLY REALLY want DPAF on this camera and would buy it in a heartbeat if it comes out that way.  It will save me from having to buy yet another full-sized DSLR for the few times a year I shoot video, plus I could use a decent compact camera.

I'm planning to expand my speedlite system next year. I like where the Phottix system is headed. I'm thinking about getting the Odin and a couple of Mitros flashes. Does anyone know if the Mitros has the receivers built in or will I have  to get the new Mitros +?  Any comments/reviews are appreciated. From what I've seen so far, it's a great system.

The Phottix Mitros speedlights don't have the built-in receivers other than optical TTL.  The whole point of the Mitros+ is to introduce built-in receivers.  That said, the Mitros+ looks to be pretty pricey for a third-party system.  I have been using the Phottix Stratos II triggers for over a year now and can't speak highly enough about them, so I'm def a fan of Phottix, but surprised their new flashes are so pricey.  You should definitely wait to see how the new YungNuo gear turns out for performance and price.  I suspect they will be really well priced and hopefully as (or even more) solid as all of their previous gear. 

This is an exciting period because the options for remote control of speedlights pretty much didn't exist at all, and now there are lots of options on the horizon.  I'll be making the same decision after the YN release myself.  My current setup works great, but I would love to have remote manual power control.

Lighting / Re: Why was Godox first to think of this?
« on: October 22, 2013, 05:21:21 PM »
The charge indicator alone is a break through, which is just total nonsense.  There is simply no excuse for that not to be a standard on every flash made in the last decade or more.  I'm quite pleased to see the lithium battery though, as the requirement to charge several dozen batteries before a large shoot is getting way old.

EOS Bodies / Re: EOS M Update Information [CR1]
« on: September 19, 2013, 09:25:34 AM »
A "new" 55-200 IS STM was posted for pre-order on Adorama last night?  Is that the same one mentioned in the inital post?  If so, at least half of the rumor is true.

Technical Support / Re: monopods and telephoto lenses
« on: August 20, 2013, 06:10:10 PM »
Keep in mind that IS and tripods only fix camera movement and have no effect at all on subject motion.  If you're shooting a moving object, 1/100s may be too slow to capture a crisp shot that's free of motion blur. 

I just got the new Sigma and my friend has the new Canon 300, so I'll try to get some direct comparisons done soon and will share the results.

I am have been using Neuro's solution for the past 4 months or so and really like it.  Only once did I have an issue when I didn't fully seat the Kirk clamp into my arca-swiss plate, but I immediately caught it and am now more careful about making sure it's locked.  Once it's clamped in I haven't had the kirk clamp come loose at all, which I was initially quite worried about.  All of my cameras and large lenses have an arca-swiss plate that stays on all the time.  Having the kirk clamps attached to my BR Sport and BR double makes swapping around of cameras super easy and far less prone to problems than when I was clipping and unclipping the BR hook.  It also means I can tripod mount my cameras in seconds. 

One addition I have to Neuro's setup is using the Op-tech straps as an added backup in case the clamps come loose.  I already had the Op-tech connector straps on my camera all the time so I just clip them around the strap after I tighten the clamp.  You can get just the connectors if you aren't already using Op-tech straps:

Or the entire strap with connectors:

These are great and very secure straps if you aren't familiar -- pretty much all I have used for the past 10 years.

Lighting / Re: photographing paintings that have thick paint
« on: June 30, 2013, 12:15:14 PM »
You can turn on a grid display in your 5D3 that will make lining up the art in camera WAY easier.

I think you're going to have to end up using cross polarization to get anything usable with the textured art you described. I used to shoot my friend's work and most of his had a lot of 3D texture.  The problem with cross polarizing is that the complete lack of glare will turn the image into a 2D shot and you'll loose the perception of depth in the photo.  Obviously you're converting 3 dimensions into 2, but you don't want to completely kill look and feel of the original.  I would suggest you try varying levels of polarization once you have everything set up and then review them with the artist to get the look they think best represents the original art.

Lenses / Re: Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L II
« on: June 26, 2013, 04:24:05 PM »
Has anyone else had an issue with the rubber grip on the zoom ring? Mine is now stretched out some how and there is a raised portion that is no longer snug against the lens.

Portrait / Re: Portraits C&C
« on: June 25, 2013, 04:24:27 PM »
1.  Don't really like the would work, but with him looking down and seemingly hunched over, his face is distorted (big cheeks, small chin).  Possibly all resolved by moving his head up or the lighting on axis with his head.

2.  Bad crop, otherwise I like...good lighting...good post colorization.  They eyes might be a tad too intense to remain natural.

3.  I quite like, but the perspective bothers me a little.  Her feet are too big and head too small.  Keep the same basic framing and move the camera up eye level and that will be solved.

4.  Love the color and composition, but the pose is incredibly one voluntarily sits like that.  A more natural pose would give the picture some life or the model a believable mood.

5.  Perfect processing, but same thing here with the perspective.  It looks like she's leaning back as she walks and her thighs are bigger looking than they should be. 

6.  Pretty perfect as is...I would move the crop up a little to get a little more hair in and a little less neck/sweater.

7.  Pose is okay for me...would be better if he were smiling.  The lighting makes this a miss though.  It's too bright (might be correctable in post), but the more problematic part is the angle.  It looks like you're shooting across his face and as a result, there's a very sharp shadow under his nose...kind of looks like a mini Hitler stache...def not a good look.  If you moved the light in front of his face and about the same angle, you be broad lighting and the shadows would look more natural or at least what one would expect from natural sunlight.  I would lower the magenta, too...his lips are way too pink...a warmer tone would mimic the setting sun, too.

EOS Bodies / Re: Moire in the 1DX and 5D3
« on: June 20, 2013, 10:44:57 AM »
The fine detail explanation makes sense now that I am shooting with the new 24-70, which is incredibly sharp.  I never had this issue with the old model.  This is an inconvenience I can definitely work around, though, because the new lens is exceptional.  I'll have to think about looking for it based on fabric patterns, because I doubt I'll ever notice it in the viewfinder.

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 9