Documentary / highlight roll, not a static 'coaches/spectator' view. We are putting together highlight footage and our regular videographer will be unavailable. I am hoping to learn more from him, but I don't meet with him regularly, and I appreciate the info I get from this forum too.
We capture isolated plays, emotions of the moment.
Currently, I use a Induro GHb2 gimbal head (or a 327RC joystick, or a 57 series ballhead) on a Manfrotto 055CXPRo 4 (or a 695 series monopod) to stabilze a 70-200 2.8 II on either a 1dIV, 5d3 or 7d.
Also use any of my primes (135/2, 85, 35) if lighting is bad - which it usually is....
Need to decide soon on the value of getting the loaner pro camcorder or learning the 5d3 (or 7d/1d), but really hoping to have quickest learning curve to achieve least. amateurish looking video (despite the fact I am an amateur at video
)
Links to readable resources on the basics of DSLR videos is appreciated, I read the Canon stuff, but am hungry for knowledge outside of the marketing....
First off, your tripod (head) is not suitable if you want any sort of motion (panning) because it's not a fluid head. If it's not going to move, it doesn't matter what you use as long as it's stable. The good news is there are some very affordable entry level "fluid" heads, if you're willing to spend about $70.
You don't need to rent a video camera - what you want to do can be done with a 7D. I do it for a living. In terms of focus, yes, you may have to stop down a bit for some of the action. You have to practice focus pulling, and get fast at it. Many still photographers I've worked with on video shoots are really really slow at pulling focus, because they are so used to setting focus, taking a single shot, and that's it. Practice - sit down and let a little kid or a dog run around you and try to keep it in focus, ideally with a viewfinder (LCDVF).
In terms of the frame rate, think of 24p/1/50th shutter as "normal" (for cinema). If you want a more video look, go to 30p (1/60th), or if you don't mind dropping the resolution to 720, go ahead and shoot at 60, (with a 1/120th shutter) but it will look like TV - 60 frames is what most live television is shot at. I don't use it but I come from a cinema background.
If you're handholding, the 60p will be easier to deal with, and it depends on how close you can get, a 135mm prime is very hard to handhold even with a rig. 35mm is much easier. In terms of capturing just a play, you have all the equipment you need, except perhaps a LCDVF (which also adds stabilization as it's pressed against your face) and perhaps a rig of some sort.