October 31, 2014, 11:23:09 PM

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Messages - privatebydesign

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Nothing touches Photoshop, and nothing does skin retouching like frequency separation and dodge and burn.

FOR SALE Photo Equipment / Yongnuo YN-E3-RT
« on: Today at 10:52:59 PM »
Here is my barely used mint condition YN-E3-RT. I have the Canon ST-E3-RT also and simply never used the Yongnuo.

It comes as you would get it new, even the screen protector film is still on it! Both cables, the FW updater and the Canon release cable, heck I'll even throw in the two brand new Duracell AA's that are in it. Includes instructions, original box and all packaging, this is as new, but you have the benefit of knowing you get one that works!

$95 firm.

It can manage three zones exactly as the AC3. If you want 15 speedlites you could go Godox/Cheetah/Neewer flashes and that has a basic controler but totally no support for Sekonic. ;-)

I only said 15 because the Paul C Buff Cyber Commander can control 16 lights individually, it has a flash meter in it too....

The Canon RT system does up to 16 flashes and or controllers in up to five groups. As can a variety of third party Chinese speelite and radio trigger systems. The Phottix Odin II's now have full five group mode, and several firms also have Profoto B1 style crossovers now that integrate with group radio systems too.

It is an exciting time for lighting, like the cowboy early days of digital cameras where a new or heavily improved function comes out nearly every week. To get the best advice for a particular user it really helps to get as much feedback on use and expectations as possible, the combinations of available gear are nearly limitless.

I have the Canon RT and PCB Einsteins but they don't play particularly well together, though I do use them both at the same time often. It seems the Odin II's are the leader in general functionality and radio control.

With the PW module you have in fact a AC3 available sn screen so you can control the flash from the Sekonic.

I hadn't noticed that with the new touchscreens, very slick. But does it still have three groups as per the AC3 or can you do per light? I am thinking it is a nice clean way of working my Einsteins with the PW module. If you can adjust per flash like the Cyber Commander can (up to 15 lights) then it looks like a nice piece of kit. If you can't then even for the 600's it is an expensive way of going from five groups to three!

Photography is a complex, creative process. To proclaim axioms as if everyone has the same creative goal is more than a little <please insert appropriate term because I'm a loss for words>.

The suggestion isn't about everybody achieving the same end goal, it is about utilizing the hardware to give the most potential to realise that personal artistic goal. Capturing the maximum potential is to the benefit of everybody that uses RAW. Who cares about jpeg shooters!  ;)

Besides, if you don't want to do it, don't, it doesn't alter the fact that an 'optimum exposure', as talked about in the article, is one that retains the most post processing potential.

Yupp, that seems to be the easiest way. I have sent off a request to Sekonic. Maybe we all should and thereby improve their motivation ...

I suspect LPA have a pretty good legal agreement with Sekonic that would limit other sensors. But even if they didn't I am sure Canon wouldn't be overly interested in making one, besides, even if they did, you'd still need to go to the flash to adjust the power which kind of defeats a lot of the utility, using an ST-E3-RT in your other hand you have the advantage of actually having control over settings as well, the Sekonic PW module doesn't do that.

If you want to do manual control of up to 5 flash groups and they are meters apart, it does take a bit more time. But the benefits of having the built in radios and avoid the PocketWizards outweighs the downside. I may just skip the entire manual ambition and try to make it work with TTL ... but I´m a control freak when it comes to setting up my cameras, so all this automation is a bit against my nature ...

Don't skip M mode, ETTL is an exercise in frustration when you want complete control and consistency, ETTL is good, but it's strength is differing flash to subject distances, not rim lights, hair lights etc.

Just do what has been suggested, hold the ST-E3-RT in one hand and the Sekonic in the other, use the Sekonic in Cordless Flash Mode and fire the 600's via the ST-E3-RT or a Master 600 in your hand, take the reading and adjust the power levels, then repeat, when you are all set up put your ST-E3-RT or Master 600 back on camera and you are done. Full wireless control, no additional stuff in the way.


Though I have found that well over exposed very subtle evening skies cannot be lowered to accurately reflect the tonality of a more traditionally exposed shot, I have never learnt why.

What software are you using?

Most of them.

Seems like a long-winded way of saying "expose high, process low."  I already use this method when I have time, and I have one quibble with his explanation: the goal, for me at least, is not to put the brightest areas at 99+% exposure, but to put the brightest areas I care about at 99+% exposure.  In some cases I'm willing to allow some areas to blow-out, either because they're too small to affect the final image or because it's a trade-off I'm willing to make for the rest of the image.

And let me see if I can avoid derailment of the thread: sensor DR irrelevant here because no matter how much DR you have (current sensor tech) you can still apply these principles to optimize your exposure.  Can we please not argue about sensor DR in this thread?

Agree on all counts.

Though I have found that well over exposed very subtle evening skies cannot be lowered to accurately reflect the tonality of a more traditionally exposed shot, I have never learnt why.

I've got an argument about that...

Which bit? I am always up for a good argument discussion  :)

So you have a new toy.
So you can post images in all the 7D MkII threads.

I doubt the 1.6 crop factor will actually amount to any more actual image resolution over a cropped 1DX file in real world shooting anyway, so in truth, unless you need another camera, the answer to your question must be no.

Post Processing / Re: Why isn't there a magic wand in Lightroom?
« on: October 30, 2014, 11:35:50 PM »
It's there, or a version to do exactly what you want.

Just use an adjustment brush with Auto Mask selected. Easy.

I am sorry, I had to look up what SCN is. DOH!

One of the reasons I prefer exposure stacking over HDR is that, for me, it looks more natural than HDR

Exposure stacking is HDR.

HDR just looks tacky,IMHO, even carefully done.

I think jdramirez was referring to creating a higher dynamic range picture through bracket and blend rather than 'HDR'. I agree with you, HDR programs can make the picture look cartoon-like; pretty awful to my eye.

And my eye too. There are very few HDR images that I like.

I expect that many of the "well just use HDR and it'll be fine" comments are from folks that haven't tried to use it a whole lot because what HDR programs do typically isn't what we want HDR programs to do.

What I typically want a HDR program to do is something like this:
- image A is overexposed +2 with blown highlights and no shadows
- image B is correctly exposed
- build image C primarily from B but include data from A for all of B's shadows so that noise is removed and detail retained.

HDR does not simply mean HDR programs!

You can use tone mapping, go to 32bit, use luminosity masks on multiple exposure etc etc these are all HDR techniques.

I guarantee you couldn't pick a well masked multiple image out from a selection of single images.

You can do exactly what you want with your A+B=C scenario, just not automatically, there are tons of techniques, tutorials, videos, and even luminosity mask actions so you don't even need to know what you are doing!

You just have to look past your blinkers and realise people have passed you by, they are not crying about camera limitations, they are making images you don't and you can't even see how they can be done, meanwhile they are traveling the world doing it!

HDR just looks tacky,IMHO, even carefully done.

That is only because you don't believe the ones that are not tacky are HDR, remember, HDR is an all encompassing term that just means any method of increasing the dynamic range over the capturing mediums innate capabilities.

Just because you don't think it is an HDR shot, in any of its forms, doesn't mean it isn't.

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