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Messages - Random Orbits

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466
Lenses / Re: Finding a used 35mm f/1.4L
« on: June 20, 2012, 08:14:18 AM »
It is a very nice lens.  I got it new during the large rebates earlier this year and am very happy with it.  It's going to be difficult if you're trying to get it for less than 1k.  Even at the Canon refurb store, it's about 1200, although that would drop closer to 1k during one of the refurb store's sales...

467
Lenses / Re: Lens Recomendation for Niagra Falls
« on: June 19, 2012, 11:27:14 PM »
Often, wide-wide-wide = boring-boring-boring.  You stand in a spot with a great, wide vista, and you look around and are inspired.  You take a shot with an ultrawide lens to try and capture that vista, and the resulting shot utterly fails to capture your feeling as you viewed the scene, and instead looks flat and uninteresting.

Why?  As tntwit stated, an ultrawide AoV renders even moderately distant subjects tiny and apparently more distant. For an ultrawide shot to have visual impact, you almost always need an interesting foreground element - and with a UWA lens, 'foreground' means within a few feet of the lens. Also, that subject needs to be something that works with the perspective distortion inherent in that situation (usually not a person, as most people don't find exaggeration of their nose/belly/hips to be very flattering). 

There's a good reason the shot you complemented was taken at a short tele focal length.  Not trying to dissuade you from a UWA lens, just saying composing a successful shot with such a lens takes thought and practice - and might be difficult when the most common foreground element you'll run across is a guard rail.

+1.  But a UWA lens would be a good choice for the Hurricane Deck/Cave of the Winds.

468
Lenses / Re: Ultra-Wide options for APS-C Body
« on: June 19, 2012, 01:02:12 PM »
How wide and how large the max aperture?  The EF-S 10-22 is a good general use lens - I've used it and it works well.  If you need something faster, you might want to look at the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8.  If you want something wider, Sigma makes a 8-16mm.

469
Lenses / Re: will canon make more pancakes?
« on: June 18, 2012, 12:51:27 PM »
What would make more sense for a competitor to the Sigma 30? An EF or EF-s Canon lens?


A fast EF-S.  For EF, the 35L is close in focal length and is already an excellent lens.

Yes but a competitor on price as well.

Canon does not seem to want to compete at the lower price levels with the exception of the 40mm pancake.  Maybe their video lens strategy will be different their their still lens strategy, where every lens revision brings with it a large price increase.  I don't see Canon replicating Sigma's lens line up at the same price as what Sigma offers.

470
Lenses / Re: will canon make more pancakes?
« on: June 18, 2012, 12:14:53 PM »
What would make more sense for a competitor to the Sigma 30? An EF or EF-s Canon lens?


A fast EF-S.  For EF, the 35L is close in focal length and is already an excellent lens.

471
Lenses / Re: Help picking lenses for vacation!
« on: June 16, 2012, 02:52:02 PM »
Thanks so much for the replies! While the vacation is for the family, I would love to take avange of the experiance and taking a lot of serious photos. We are planning on walking for the whole day, so personally the 70-200 is out of the picture. Its just way to heavy to carry for 6+ hours. I will though definitely bring the 35 and 24-105. Also I just recently bought a b&w polarizer. Now that's said and done. Do you think ithe fisheye would be a good add? Not only for the trip but to have in my "inventory" ..:)

I suggest bringing the 35, 24-105 and the 17-40.  For daytime, I'd bring the 17-40 and 24-105, and for nighttime, I'd bring the 35L.  The 17-40 should work well for buildings and architecture, and the 24-105 would work well for everything else.

The 8-15 is a good add, but not for this trip.  It's best used sparingly and the 17-40 works better as a primary wide angle lens.  That said, the 8-15 is a fun lens.

472
The 50mm f/1.2 L won't focus right with any AF sensor on any 5D. I've tried it on 5Dc, 5DII and 5DIII (and 7D for that matter). My lens, even at the best AF adjustment setting (-20) it misses more often than it hits (stationary high-contrast target from tripod). I wouldn't exclude the possibility of my sample being sub-par, but if you decide to get one of these, make sure the shop has a good return policy. I'd actually recommend getting the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 instead.

Having said that, both the 35mm and 50mm focal lengths are useful for weddings, and the 35L is excellent.

Looks like you should have the lens sent in to be calibrated.  Mine works OK on a 5DII with AFMA.

473
Lenses / Re: 50mm 1.2L + 24mm 1.4L on crop body?
« on: June 13, 2012, 07:50:51 AM »
While your DoF explanation is right, the focal length does not change hence "angle of view of the lens doesnt change either" doesn't make any sense.

What is focal length? Focal length alone doesn't dictate angle of view. Focal length + frame format dictate angle of view. (Simple trigonometry: half angle of view = atan(half frame length / focal length)). When you "crop",  you change angle of view.

You could argue that but the lens still projects FF equiv. angle of view, it's just the outer area of light falls outside the sensor. Well, who cares about the light outside of sensor? The term "angle of view" is always a relative term which really means the angle of view the current sensor is able to see.

That's all I have to say.

Focal length is a property of the lens.  For example, the 14L has a 114 degree angle of view diagonally.  The 50L has a 46 degree angle of view.  To get an object to be the same size with the 14mm lens, you have to be a lot closer, but the angle is still 114 deg.  Try it for yourself.  Take photos of the same object at two different focal lengths and fill the image with the object.  You will see a lot more background with the wider lens due to its angle of view.

474
Lenses / Re: 50mm 1.2L + 24mm 1.4L on crop body?
« on: June 12, 2012, 08:17:18 AM »
Remember, a 50mm lens on a 1.6 might be about 85mm, but you still have the 50mm perspective.

What the heck are you talking about? What's might be a 85mm but have 50mm perspective?

That's the biggest mis-concept ppl have been stating over and over again.

focal length and frame size determines angle of view. Angle of view AND position determines framing. Position alone determines perspective.

Putting a 50 on crop, putting a 85 (approx) on FF, stand at the same position, frame the same picture, the perspective are exactly the same.

Conclusion? 50mm on crop will have 85mm equivalent angle of view as on FF, and will have 85mm equivalent perspective as on FF.

Position alone does NOT determine perspective.  Focal length has a major impact on the relative size of FG and BG ojbects (AOV).  Using a lens on a crop camera is like taking scissors to a print and enlarging it back to the original size.  It does not change the perspective or ratio of near/far objects.  That is why short telephotos are recommended for portraiture -- wide angles tend to empahasize features closer to the camera (i.e. nose).

475
Lenses / Re: He tells me: Compare these lenses and keep any you like!
« on: June 08, 2012, 03:30:42 PM »
What if a second lens needs adjusting? If Canon adjusts camera for one lens, will you lose its adjustment if you re-adjust the camera for a second lens?

Canon would adjust both the body and lens and adjust them toward the ideal setting.  I had a 24L II that was out of focus.  It was covered by the warranty, and I sent it in and Canon adjusted its focus.  I got it back and it worked fine now.  However the note they sent may stated that next time it might be better to send the body in too, so they can adjust both independently and together.

What I am trying to say is if your body is the one that has the tolerance error, then it might require all your lenses to have a AFMA of +15 for an example.  If you got a new lens that needs a +8 adjustment on a neutral body, the closest you will be able to get is +20 (camera limit) but it needs a +23, so your perfect shots would be slightly OOF.  If you send the camera in, then they can adjust it so that it is closer to zero, which would give you the full +/-20 range to make adjustments with.

You can check how well a lens' AF works by taking pictures with phase-detect AF and LiveView.  A good lens would give you similar sharpness across the frame with either method.  A bad lens might give you good LiveView performance, but be blurry with phase-detect AF.  That is what I experienced with a 50mm f/1.4.

476
Lenses / Re: He tells me: Compare these lenses and keep any you like!
« on: June 08, 2012, 02:59:51 PM »
Check with Canon to verify whether or not it is a Canon approved reseller.  If he is not, I would not do business with him.  There are tolerances on all lenses and bodies -- even if your body and lens are both in spec, you could still have to use sizeable AFMA values to get optimal performance.

I would not buy two sets of lenses.  You are taking all the risk because he has your money.  I would get one, try to match it to the body via AFMA.  If that doesn't work, then I'd contact Canon and have them adjust your camera and lens together.  You'd pay shipping once, but then you'd have a well-matched body and lens combination.  Calibrating the body may also make your future lens purchases easier if they are able to "center" the error.

Complete duds are rare.  Finding a lens that is perfectly matched to your body is also rare. 

477
Lenses / Re: 50mm 1.2L + 24mm 1.4L on crop body?
« on: June 08, 2012, 08:05:49 AM »
Yes, L lenses make sense on a crop body.  What you get is better IQ, build quality, consistent AF, and weather resistence, but it costs you money, size and weight.

I've used the 50L and 24L II on my crop body and FF, and they work great.  Increased control over DOF/OOF blur is big reason why people choose prime over zooms.  That said, the DOF/OOF gets a bigger effect when you move to full frame, but lenses retain their value much better than bodies.

478
EOS Bodies / Re: Used 60D or new 650D/T4i?
« on: June 08, 2012, 07:42:45 AM »
I'd go with the T4i.  Even if the sensor is the same as the one used in existing Rebel/60D/7Ds, then it will be a huge increase in IQ compared to a P&S.  The T4i is much more friendly for video users with auto AF.  The T4i is basically a combined HD camcorder and a SLR, which is a good value and it reduces the amount of gear you'd need to do both tasks.

Battery life is so much better for SLRs compared to P&S.  If that concerns you, get a spare or two.  You could also shoot just RAW to increase burst rate according to the spec.  I never use jpgs out of the camera anymore.  Everything goes through LR, which is then used to generate jpgs after all the changes are in.

479
Lenses / Re: Can a UV filter affect IQ (sharpness) on a lens?
« on: June 07, 2012, 10:26:35 PM »
However, I talked to one of my best friends today...He gave me his professional opinion that with current technology (coatings, etc.) the minimum effect on image quality per air to glass interface is 3%.

For example, after 10 filters there would be 73.7% transmission with an optically perfect set of filters (.97)^10 = 73.7%.

Depending on the angle of the light ray passing through the filter, the abberations / MTF deficiency will vary, but once again, 3% is basically a minimum level of effect.


Sorry, going to disagree again. First off, I'm not sure you're distinguishing between transmission loss and IQ decrement. Transmission loss with modern lens coatings is much less than 1% per interface.

Now, take your friend's value of 3% IQ loss per interface leading to a 6% loss of IQ from a filter.  Roger Cicala's (lensrentals.com) tests of large filter stacks refutes that.  Moreover, optically there's no difference between a curved glass-air interface and a flat one - the magnitude of refraction and reflection is the same, only the vector direction differs.  So, let's look at the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II - arguably the best zoom lens in existence. It has 19 groups, meaning 38 glass-air interfaces. At 3% loss per interface, that means absolutely no light hitting the sensor if you mean transmission, or over 100% IQ loss if you don't mean transmission. I don't think either is even close to true.


The lensrental page below cites that "a modern coating that is 99.9% effective, and total reflection changes to less than 2% for the simple lens and just over 3% for the complex lens." and that "Without coatings each interface would reflect about 4% of the light that reaches it."

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2011/12/reflections-on-reflections-the-most-important-part-of-your-lens

480
Lenses / Re: Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM Information.
« on: June 07, 2012, 10:21:29 PM »
But why it has to be longer? Cant they bend light sharply enough to use big glass in a very short lens? What are physics restrictions to this? (Just curious :), an article regarding this would be an interesting read)

Material properties restrict how much the light can be bent.  To make fast aperture short lenses, you'd need new glass-like materials that have a higher index of refraction and have lower chromatic abberation properties.  Diffractive optics with their gratings can bend light more than traditional optics, but the technology is not yet good enough to deliver comparable or better IQ.


Really? And why can Voigtlander do this, for example? Their Nokton 35mm F/1.4 doesn't look that much bigger. I'm sure there are plenty of others that are fast, in that same focal range and pretty small and flat - and "full frame"...

Isn't the Nokton you cite for a range finder camera, without a mirror box?  What example can you find of a small profile lens that is f/1.4 for a full frame sensor DSLR that also has autofocus?

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