« on: May 01, 2013, 05:08:47 PM »
Be the first to try it and then let us know.
LOL...I've never been one to test the water with both feet...
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Be the first to try it and then let us know.
Hi, back now. I captured 24 pictures during a 75 minute period. I had good help of a friend who is also an enthusiast like me but has some more experience. I will process and post at least one of them by tomorrow.OK, thanks for the gear tip. I am actually moving back to Europe in a few weeks and will hold any further investments until getting back. Also, this is a first try and I will see if I get hooked, looking at your pictures and if I could at least get close to that, I am sure I will be.
We have some beautiful landscape areas with creeks and a big lake close to our summer house. I'll likely continue to practice there before I'd go all in on more gear for this area.
Interesting comment about how you meter. You're on a quite advanced level. I have a lot to learn just starting out with it. I checked out a couple of videos and will shoot in AV and let the camera give me the shutter speed. It's a start and I don't want too much to think about.
Again, many thanks for all the info.
Good luck. You are blessed to have those potential subjects around you. Make do first with what you have and shoot in the golden hour/blue hour for optimum results. Long exposure photography is indeed a very interesting genre. As you already shoot in RAW, I also suggest you shoot in either MANUAL or BULB mode for more flexiblity as you don't have enough control of the shutter speed in Av mode. The key to long exposure photography is controlling your shutter speed but watching out with your aperture as well. Also, set your ISO as low as possible. Long exposure may also result in high noise(even at ISO 100) and this you'll have to find out yourself as you get along. Vignetting is also another issue but this can be addressed easily in LR or PS.
I am very grateful for yours and J.R.'s advice, it's really helped me. Not sure the result will reflect that though - All I know is that it was fun and I already have plenty of ideas of where I want to try this again and under which circumstances.
Thanks alot guys!
Interesting. Cook hasn't really proven himself (at least to me) to be a terribly effective leader in the wake of Jobs death. Now Jobs was definitely a visionary, if also a huge @sshole from time to time, but he seemed to get the best out of his people and they either loved him or hated him for it. Cook seems almost like a place holder until apple can invent the iSteve. Personally I'd rather meet Warren Buffet or michael Bloomberg (buffet also auctions off his time for a charity each year if I remember).
For your MBP, Thunderbolt is the way to go. No, you can't daisy-chain from your monitor, but if you select the right bits, you can have the monitor at the end of the chain.Hmm...very interesting. A question bout your drives...are these single, external drives in enclosures you're talking about? Just trying to get a picture of what exactly you're plugging into the thunderbolt hub.
There are several Thunderbolt Hubs (plug that into Google, and look at this:http://www.macrumors.com/2013/04/09/caldigit-thunderbolt-station-adds-to-growing-ranks-of-thunderbolt-docks/) out there these days. Belkin, Matrox, CalDigit and a few others. Some have many different ports, others are one-trick ponies.
I have a Retina MBP, so I have two TB ports, and USB3. For external storage, I went with LaCie Thunderbolt to ESATA hubs ($180-$200 plus cables. I got my last as a refurb from LaCie for $99.) These connect to your TB bus, and you can connect two external drives via ESATA. I chose this mainly because I already had drives with ESATA (I was using the FW800 ports on them previously). They also have two TB ports, so I now have one TB-ESATA daisy-chained off another TB-ESATA. I could still plug in my external monitor with a MDP-DVI adapter, or another TB device.
Now I didn't really need extra USB3 ports (I use a Belkin hub for those), but many of the TB hubs will have some combination of FW800, Ethernet, USB3, USB2, MDP, ESATA, etc. You'll need to shop around for the one that you like best. One added bonus, is if you take the MBP places, you only have to disconect one TB cable!
I have to say that in addition to a much faster MBP (quad i7/16GB/512GB), the drive I/O speed has dramatically improved by putting everything on either USB3 or ESATA. Dumping 1000+ RAWs, with rename and back up, from a 32GB card is very quick with the Hoodman USB3 reader and UDMA7 CF cards. Oh, and my only solid-state storage is in the MBP with just the system and apps. Everything else is on spinning platters...
I have a 12TB NAS but its not the way to go for editing directly from it. Even with two 1 GB network cables in parallel, its slow for editing. I won't even edit still directly from it unless its urgent.What do you recommend for working from them, that is external to the computer (in my case a laptop)?
Its great for storing files and backups, which is what I use it for.
I have a great suggestion for you to look into. I wouldn't suggest RAID 1 either because what you gain in speed, you lose in protection. Why back up only to lose it all- right?
When you say "scratch disk", I think of the setting for scratch disk in photoshop. It needs to be very fast and if you use a external disk, USB and Firewire are painfully slow.
You might be better off getting a large fast SSD, a 960GB Crucial SSD costs $600.
A rule of thumb method to calculate the maximum exposure time, for a particular focal length, before star trails become noticeable. It's simply 600 / focal length = exposure time (in seconds).I can't help you with the stacking thing unfortunately
but I gotta ask why use f/8?
I use 2.8 on my 16-35 with the focus set to infinity..
That way you can keep your ISO down to a minimum and get less noise at
the same amount of time.. using the 600 rule...
If you have a 30 Sec exposure using ISO 6400 @ f/8 you can go down to
ISO 800 @ f/2.8 and still have a 30 sec exposure..
You'll still get the sharpness you need..
What is the 600 rule?
For a 50mm lens, 600/50 = 12 seconds.
For a 15mm lens, 600/15 = 40 seconds.
By keeping the exposure to those times or less, the stars appear as dots, not trails.