August 22, 2014, 05:53:24 AM

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Messages - Vossie

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Canon General / Re: A Rundown of EOS 7D Mark II Information
« on: August 16, 2014, 07:29:11 AM »
What is professional? For me the only difference between an amateur and a professional photographer is that the latter one makes money with photos.

Exactly. A pro does it for a living. Some pro's shoot with 1D series, some shoot with xxxD series.

I do agree though with jrista that having many dedicated buttons typically allows for more rapid adjustments of settings compared to touchscreens.

I am really curious to see the final specs and performance of the 7D2. I now have only 1 body, and I would be interested in a 2nd body to cpmplement by 5D3. I would be really interested in a APC-C body with ~20-someting MP, 5D3 like AF, ~10 fps and ISO performance that is max 1 stop worse compared to the 5D3 if it would be priced similar to the 6D.

EOS Bodies / Re: Exmor vs DualISO
« on: August 15, 2014, 03:51:57 AM »
Great article Raptor, with a nicely detailed comparison.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Another Nikon full-frame
« on: August 10, 2014, 10:50:00 AM »
I´d love to see Canon following that move ... instead of ONE 5D IV ... two of them: a 5D-X with 24MP/10 fps sensor plus a 5D-H with 40+ MP/5 fps sensor. Everything identical except resolution, fps and max ISO.
And then offer them separately and also as "2-body kit" @ 33% discount. Sales would go through the roof. :-)
+1 I like that idea.

Canon General / Re: Which Lens to Take
« on: August 08, 2014, 05:13:15 AM »
I will be bringing at least 4 batteries i have the battery grip for my 5d mk3 and will hopefully keep enough charge in them to last the trip.
I would leave the grip at home an just bring the batteries. Your back will appreciate the reduced weight after a couple of days.  ;)

Canon General / Re: Which Lens to Take
« on: August 07, 2014, 09:16:36 AM »
The 24-70 II is quite a bit heavier than the 24-105. The 24-105 sound like the right choice. In case you need to go wider, you can always stitch and if you need to go narrower, you can crop. I would leave the 50 1.8 behind.

Lenses / Re: Help deciding on a macro lens
« on: August 04, 2014, 02:21:42 PM »
The article says the voigtländer is more expensive.
The important thing about this lens is that it's very rare and that makes it expensive.

You are right, the lens is no longer being made and goes for about EUR 2000 / $2600 on Ebay. The Zeiss is about EUR 1700 in Europe ans $1850 in the US.

Strangely, it is still on the Voightlander site, where it is listed at EUR 999 (which is what i based my prvious statement on):

Lenses / Re: Help deciding on a macro lens
« on: August 04, 2014, 01:26:58 PM »
As this is a thread looking for a 100mm-ish macro lens, I'd like to mention the Apo Lanthar 125mm from Voigtländer.

I don't own one.
People are saying it's a very nice lens and a pretty rare one, too.

Did not know about that lens; but just found this comparison with the Zeiss:
This review is very positive about the Voigtländer, which is about half the price of the Zeiss!

Lenses / Re: Help deciding on a macro lens
« on: August 04, 2014, 10:15:41 AM »
For the price of the Zeiss 100 macro, you can almost buy a Canon 100L + a 135L. That way you can have f2 for portrait work and 1:1 reproduction for macro work for less than 116% of the price of the Zeiss.

I have not used the Zeiis, but when looking at TDP, I slightly prefer the 100L's bokeh (comparison @ f5.6) shown in the TDP review) over that of the Zeiss.

As pointed out by some others, macro can be quite static, but when shooting bugs on a hike, it can also be very far from static. Having AF and IS, can help quite a bit in such situation (much more helpful than the extra stop of the Zeiss).

Lenses / Re: A nice UWA lenses comparison
« on: August 01, 2014, 04:13:58 AM »
Very nice comparison indeed. Roger always does a very thorough job. The new 16-35 f4 seems to be a real gem.

Especially this bit says a lot: "The MTF charts clearly show the TS-E is better at . . . tilting and shifting. That’s huge for me, because I often used it as a straight lens, never intending to use the tilt-shift features, simply because of its resolution."

IF "Are you giong for many full day hikes?"= YES, THEN "NO 300 2.8"
ELSE IF "Are you mostly driving/boating?"= YES, THEN "YES 300 2.8"
AND IF "Are you taking small planes for transfers?"= YES, THEN "check weight restrictions first"

Hey Northstar, how do you like your gopro black 3 so far? 
I wanted one (3+) until I heard about the focusing issue and have decided to wait for the new one (assuming there is one).

West...I like mine!  I don't use it a lot but when I do, I find that I get some interesting video and time lapse stuff.

Same here; I do not use it a lot, but when I do, I am generally happy with the results. Especially using it in the water gives some nice pictures that otherwise could not have been taken (within this price range). Battery life is quite poor (especially when using the LCD bacpac or wifi), so I recommend to get a few spare batteries.

Since it's so small, it's never a burden to take a long. I have also used in on a handlebar mount with my kids learning to ride a bicycle. Quite funny to see their facial expressions :)


Don't be afraid to turn your flash up either, as you may need all it's got to overpower the sun. It's good if you can overpower the sun, as the background will look darker and hence the people will pop out of the shot rather than blend into a bright background.

Thanks guys for sharing your experience.. This is a basic good concept to remember.

Do I need color gel for my flash, to balance color with sunlight.

I might need ND filter, to battle sunlight..?

If you shoot a group, you probably need to stop down to get sufficient DoF to have the whole group in focus, so I would not worry about needing ND's. If you use a speedlight, you can use high speed sync allowing you to use shutter speeds above the x-sync speed of your body.

As mentioned by the others, it is best to have the sun somewhere behind the group. You can then overcome the shadows on their bodies and faces by using a flash (prefereblay with diffusor) or reflector(s), or a combination thereof. Reflector(s) will give you more smooth light like whith a softbox, but with large groups, you may need multiple relfectors to get an even illumination on the subjects. When using reflectors an extra hand to hold them in position is helpful. Some extra tripods to position them against may also work. Using "gold" reflectors may give you nice warm photos even mid day.

If you can place your group in the shadow of the tree, you will get an even shadow that is more easy to overcome than a mixture of hard lights and hard shadows on their faces.

I have no experience with on-flah gels, but can imagine that they offer the same potential as "gold" reflectors.

If you shoot in RAW, you can do quite a bit of color correction to balance colors in post.

EOS Bodies / Re: Patent: Canon EF 180mm f/3.5 DO Macro
« on: July 29, 2014, 03:03:49 AM »
(3) DO elements create onion ring bokeh, but that's ok because bokeh is totally unimportant in macro shooting.

Neuro, I probably miss the meaning of the ::) smiley, but for me the aesthetic quality of the out-of-focus areas  make or break a good macro photo.

I have never used a DO lens myself, but have looked at many photos from DO lenses on the net and agree that OOF areas typically look a bit nervous and not very pleasing.

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