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Messages - bdunbar79

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2251
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D2 vs 5D3 low light AF
« on: June 18, 2012, 11:41:28 AM »
All great points guys.  As a former 5D Mk II owner and current 5D Mk III owner, they're great in low light.  One other thing to add to the discussion is remember the lens matters too.  Max ap lenses of f/4, f/2.8, f/1.2, etc. tend to focus faster, especially on the 1D Mk IV than narrower max ap lenses.  Consider the 300mm f/4L lens on the 1DX vs. the 300mm f/2.8L on the same camera body.  The latter will focus faster.  Of course, stationary scenes who cares.

Had my 70-200 2.8II on the whole time.  Great, fast combo.   :)

I shot Wednesday outside with the 5D Mk III and 70-200L lens that you mention and it's hard to imagine a better combination.  Oh the sharpness and color...............:)

2252
Just catching up on the great information guys.  Ok, I'm now familiar with the AE lock button used as focusing per the manual and I did it and can do it just fine.  However, I'm a little apprehensive about this, as is Brian, because I just feel as though I'd have a tougher time with speed using another button to focus as I would the shutter and metering.  My idea was to blanket meter all shots upfront with the anticipation that the gym lighting won't change throughout the game, meter to the right, and then focus and shoot away throughout the game.  However, that feature is really cool!

Brian do you recomment using faux M mode with an ISO range set?  Or should I just set the ISO period.  Thanks.

2253
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D2 vs 5D3 low light AF
« on: June 18, 2012, 11:35:01 AM »
One other thing to add to the discussion is remember the lens matters too.  Max ap lenses of f/4, f/2.8, f/1.2, etc. tend to focus faster, especially on the 1D Mk IV than narrower max ap lenses.  Consider the 300mm f/4L lens on the 1DX vs. the 300mm f/2.8L on the same camera body.  The latter will focus faster.

True, but it's not necessarily about the aperture of the lens, per se - it's more about the AF motor in the lens and the design of the focusing group.  The 85mm f/1.2L II, despite having the fastest aperture currently available, is a very slow focusing lens.  The 400/5.6 focuses noticeably faster than the 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 @ 400mm f/5.6, although the aperture is the same.  In the example you mention, AF is faster with the 300/2.8 because of lens design, not aperture.  In fact, the high-precision AF point(s) activated by an f/2.8 lens may sometimes be slower to AF than the f/5.6 points, depending on the camera and the scene - the greater accuracy comes at the expense of focusing speed, such that AI Servo calculations are often driven by the f/5.6 sensor elements, and in some cases the f/5.6 part of the sensor first achieves focus, which is then refined by the f/2.8 part of the sensor (i.e. with a slower lens, the AF would be done after the f/5.6 step).

Cool.  Thanks for the explanation.

2254
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon T4i seems to be in stock everywhere -- WHY????
« on: June 18, 2012, 11:33:54 AM »

Compared to 5D III, the new release 4ti seems to be in stock everywhere. This wasn't the case with 5D III.

Is that means we have more FF shooters out there? Just wonder  ;)

Because Canon had the cameras built and ready to go prior to announcing the camera.

This.

2255
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D2 vs 5D3 low light AF
« on: June 18, 2012, 11:21:00 AM »
All great points guys.  As a former 5D Mk II owner and current 5D Mk III owner, they're great in low light.  One other thing to add to the discussion is remember the lens matters too.  Max ap lenses of f/4, f/2.8, f/1.2, etc. tend to focus faster, especially on the 1D Mk IV than narrower max ap lenses.  Consider the 300mm f/4L lens on the 1DX vs. the 300mm f/2.8L on the same camera body.  The latter will focus faster.  Of course, stationary scenes who cares.

2256
Lenses / Re: What is you wedding kit?
« on: June 17, 2012, 09:30:29 PM »
I recently sold my 70-200 f/4 IS so my 16-35 is my best piece of glass... So I tend to use it alot. I had a wedding yesterday and used two lenses... (16-35 II and 28-135 [for a few closer shots]) I think I need to get a 135mm L and I can shoot an entire wedding with a 16-35 and 135...

I love my 16-35 but I shoot with a crop body and 80% of my shots are at 35...

When I get a FF I am sure I'll need somthing longer (24-70/70-200 probly) but I am happy with the results I get from my 16-35 on Crop.

16-35L is GREAT with a crop body, but I agree in FF it's useless at a wedding IMO.  If you are even remotely serious about wedding photography with a FF camera, I don't know how you cannot have the 24-70L lens.  My kit with a 5D Mark II was 24-70L, 70-200L, 50 f/1.4, 85 f/1.2L, and 135 f/2L, with a backup 1D Mark III (I know, so weird calling this camera a "backup") and it worked absolutely fantastic.  5 lenses, 2 cameras, and a flash and tripod and I got everything I needed and then some.  If you go the wedding route, consider those focal lengths and pick up about $3k/weekend :)

2257
1D4 is fine at iso 6400 just remember to meter to the right by using ec+1

Ok Brian, so when I meter, I'll get a correct exposure.  THEN, go +1 EC after that?  Or, simply meter to +1 (either way I guess)?  Thanks.

Just set ec to +1 and take pictures as normal

Got ya.  Thanks!

2258
1D4 is fine at iso 6400 just remember to meter to the right by using ec+1

Ok Brian, so when I meter, I'll get a correct exposure.  THEN, go +1 EC after that?  Or, simply meter to +1 (either way I guess)?  Thanks.

2259
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5DMKIII Autofocus help required
« on: June 17, 2012, 04:55:56 PM »
The DOF seems to be very shallow for F14?

I was thinking 1.4 personally.  In that case, I'd shoot f/8 if I were conerned at all about DOF and in focus subjects with 5D Mk III.  If the background interferes too much, practice maybe at f/5.6, then f/4.  That's what I usually do.

2260
I have been shooting indoor high school basketball for a couple of years now.  I am curious when (what time of day) you took your practice shots.  I ask because, in my experience, in Jacksonville, Florida, the games are taking place after 6:00 in the evening, in the winter time. This means that, while you can get situations where you have sun coming in some windows in the gym, creating odd lighting conditions for short period of time near sunset, the bigger issue for me has been an overall lack of light. Some of these high school gyms are seriously dark.

I do find that using spot metering, tends to give me optimal results in those moments where there is residual daylight to worry about, so I recommend trying that and using either aperture priority or shutter priority. 

You will not have this problem because you're shooting with a 1D Mark IV, but because I shoot with a 40D (soon stepping up to the 1DX), I have had to shoot with shutter priority in order to stop the action. Aperture priority would result in too slow a shutter speed most of the time (for my camera).  I cannot shoot at ISOs higher than 6400 at all, and at 6400, I get some pretty bad noise.  So, with this old camera, I tend to get shots which stop the action but are under-exposed initially. Then I can boost the exposure and deal with the noise in post. As you might imagine, I am REALLY looking forward the the major improvements that will come with the 1DX.

I went to an OPEN GYM to practice.  It's June, and it was 6pm, so there was a lot of light.

Anyways, thanks for your advice.  When I go to the next one here in a few days, I am going to practice with spot metering.

2261
It's called using a DSLR people.  No, DR will not be infinite and superb, on any DSLR camera. 

2262
EOS Bodies / Re: EOS-1D X now or wait for 1D neXt?
« on: June 17, 2012, 01:53:32 PM »
Is anyone else sitting on fence over the decision to buy the 1D X right now (when available) or wait to see what is coming next?  After using my pair of 1D Mk IV bodies for over two-years now, I am debating about the benefits of selling one of them and buying a 1D X.  As the 1D4's have met all of my needs; auto racing, landscape, travel, existing light, in other words, just about everything, I am hesitant to make the purchase of a 1D X right now.  On the surface, it looks like the 1D X would be a great addition to my bag of tricks...it's just that the 1D4 meets all my current needs and the jury seems to still be out on the yet to be available 1D X.  So, maybe it would be better to just wait a little while and see what Canon does next as there seems to be a lot of discussion of just that ?  The good news in all of this, is that it has been easy to find prospective buyers for the 1D4, as there is quite the demand for them right now!  Makes you wonder why/if Canon is discontinuing the model?

Steve, I use a 1D Mark IV too.  For me, I got that and a lens vs. the 1D X.  That combo is doing everything I need right now.  There are complaints of the AF tracking on the 1D4 but I haven't noticed anything yet.  If your two 1D4's are doing everything you need and you're not missing a lot of shots, not really a reason to upgrade.  2 more mp's will not matter.  However, if you need ultra-fast fps in very low light without the luxury of missing shots, then the 1D X at least LOOKS like it could handle that extra.  You could probably sell a used 1D4 right now for $3500-$4000, so on the other hand the 1D X would only cost you maybe $2700.  I'm sure it will be a better camera but if you don't need the added features, don't waste your money.  Use that $6700 saved up on a few lenses.

2263
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5DMKIII Autofocus help required
« on: June 17, 2012, 01:35:42 PM »
That's pretty good quality.  I think you're doing well.  The other thing I did was practice different metering and see how it affects the exposure.  For instance, you could do spot metering on the bright side of the bird, take the reading, and adjust the shutter speed accordingly for proper exposure.  Usually, when I do something like that, I'll take 3-5 photos with AEB, -2/3, -1/3, proper, +1/3, +2/3, and then do two metering sites.  You have 10 photos then, and one will certainly be the way you personally want it.  That's just what I do.  I know it can add a lot of RAW pictures that you're not going to use and have to sift through, but in this case it might be worth trying once or twice and seeing what your options look like.  And it's fun!  :)  However, in this case you may not have had time to do that, as the bird probably took off within seconds, maybe.  I think the 5D Mark III can do spot metering everywhere (all 61 points) in single shot mode can't it?  I can't remember.  AI Servo is different.

2264
No doubt I'm wasting my breath, no-one has listened up to now about DR being only a small part of the whole. The photographer will make a much larger difference than any perceived deficiencies in a camera, whatever it may be.

DR is a small part unless you hit a wall, just like AF, MP, and high ISO are 'small parts' unless you hit limits with them, at which point they become big deals.

I regularly hit DR limit of my camera and need to use HDR to make the shots work, though I am planning to invest some grad ND filters, but those have their limits (i.e. are best when you have a nice strait horizon).

HDR is okay to do as long as you know what you're doing.  I've seen some bad HDR photos, haha.

2265
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mark III vs 5D Mark II Raw Image Quality
« on: June 16, 2012, 11:49:38 PM »
I was wondering for those that actually own the 5d Mark II and III, is there a difference in image quality with RAW files around the lower ISO ranges (100-3200).  I have heard that they are the same quality?

Pretty much the same quality.  However, color rendition and saturation seems to be slightly better in the RAW images I'm shooting with the 5D Mark III, but post-processing they are the same quality in my opinion.  5D Mark II is a great value camera.  I don't think the differences between the cameras is IQ.

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