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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Why does Canon watermark their manuals
« on: March 10, 2013, 03:03:23 PM »
It does not show in my old version of Adobe Acrobat 8 (Standard), but its locked and I can't print it.  Its a full version, not a reader.
I then tried it in Adobe Reader X and it did not show either.
I did not spot any obvious settings to turn it on or off, but there is probably something that toggles visibility of a watermark.


Thank you for this detailed input. I think I'll forgo adding the expense of the tc. Remind me that if I ever meet you and your wife, I owe you dinner  :)

Just experiment.  The MP-E 65 is a pretty special lens, not hand holdable, for really serious macro shooters.
I like to walk around and snap a bug or flower without disturbing it.  I've been able to get reasonable closeups with my 100L.  It seems to like my 7D very well.
Here is a bumble bee on a chive blossom its handheld, but I did sit on a 5 gal bucket and braced my elbows.  Its cropped a bit as well, and I may have used a short tube.  The IS on the 100L is great, far better than I expected.

I've had no trouble e-mailing them and getting a answer.  Certainly, the markings will be different.  None of my lenses are close to your dimensions, but they are not the big whites.
There is also Midwest camera who may have parts, they also buy up old parts. 
I'd probably get some plexiglass and cut it to size and heat / bend it.  Then grind the edges to a bevel.  The black double sided adhesive strips are available.  My son has a milling machine which might make it easier.

I'd ask the software seller.  They might have a tip.  It sounds like one of them has a problem, but it might just be a setting.

Lenses / Re: Weddings - prime only advice
« on: March 10, 2013, 02:14:52 PM »
I'd only use primes if I have enough camera bodies to hold them.  Changing lenses can result in dropped lenses, bodies, and lost shots.
Keep one prime on a body, and a zoom on the other.
Perhaps a 24-70mmL on one body, and a 100L or 135mmL on the other body.
I do use primes for some theater photography where I have a 6 foot table and I can line all of them up without any danger of them dropping.  Even still, I hate to change lenses frequently.  I use 35mmL, 50mm, 85mm 1.8, 100mmL, and 135mmL.  I bring a 16-35mmL just in case I need really wide.
I get to shoot rehearsals where no one is running around to knock my lenses off the table.  I'm considering selliing them and buying a 24-70L.  The 5D MK III is good enough in extreme low light to barely get by with f/2.8, and I'll keep the 100L and 135mmL.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Lexar CF cards FAIL - Sandisk?
« on: March 10, 2013, 02:02:56 PM »
No,  my Lexar cards are fine.  Sandisk is reported  on this forum to have some issues.
How many cards failed?  You make it sound as though you have a lot of them and they all failed.
Individual cards fail, and, of course, counterfits fail frequently.  Even batches of a certain lot can have a die flaw.
Which cards failed,?  Is there a serial number laser engraved on the back edge of the card.  I'd ask for it, but mine is a very long code and I'd likely make a error copying it. (Its hard to see, because its engraved on black)

Pricewatch Deals / Re: 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II Refurbished for $1699
« on: March 10, 2013, 01:51:10 PM »
Although it ends up only saving $200 net, I ordered one just now. 
Thanks for the tip.
I'm going to sell off some of my lens collection to pay for it.

I'd be a little careful buying filters on ebay.  They are so easy to counterfit that there are tons of them being sold.
You might be better off buying Quantaray, they are claimed to be currently produced by THK, same as Hoya (USA) and Kenko (Europe).
THK is a acronym for Tokina, Hoya, Kenko and is the parent company.

I've read that one forum administrator had his fail in the middle of a wedding shoot.  I think the flashes are fine for casual users, but putting your expensive wedding shoot at risk to safe a few bucks might bite you.  I guess you could always buy spares, and toss them as they die, but you might still lose a critical shot.
They did have a modification to the 560  in 2011 after the early models were dropping like flies, haven't heard a lot of complaints lately.
Canon flashes die as well, so you have to asses the risk.

Lenses / Re: Need help with choosing a telephoto for $800 and under
« on: March 09, 2013, 11:21:43 PM »
I'd also vote for the 70-200mm f/4 either non IS or a used IS version.

I'd be concerned that the issue with the focus ring is the common damage to the collars that guide the lens barrell as it moves.  If one or more cracks, focus gets rough.
You can pay to have it cleaned, but you may then pay again to have it fixed.
Canon no longer sells parts to small camera repair shops, so even for a 2 cent part, you may have to send it to Canon or one of the very few authorized repair centers.
This article discusses the issue with the collars:

EOS Bodies / Re: Really...How "Bad" is the T3i For Video?
« on: March 09, 2013, 10:28:53 PM »
Sound is 50% of the video, and the live sound is pretty noisy, she needs a proper mic, or to overdub the sound.  She should also hire someone to run the camera.  Its just apparently mounted to a tripod and looks itUsing multiple cameras would be a help.
The T3i is fine, the weakest part is the sound and the look of the camera just sitting on a tripod.  I liked the music.

If they were the same part, Canon would (or should) have the same part number on them. 
Did you contact Pro Camera Repair in San Diego?
Give them the dimensions and they might have one close that could be trimmed a little.

If it were me, I'd stick with 5D3.  1DX and 5D3 got the same AF (almost).  As for low light performance, 1DX is just a little bit better.  I suggest getting 1DX only if more than 6fps performance is crucial to you.  Your macbook is also important since it is so good to edit raw files using mac.  If I were you, I'd like a good TS-E lens instead of the 35 though.  :)

Sorry if this sounds stupid but what would be the application for a ts-e?
Its a good question, a TS  is a specialized lens why would someone recommend it for you instead of a 35mm lens without knowing what use you would have for it??

You can use the Kenko TC by turning off AFMA in the camera body, or use the canon TC by inserting a extension ring.
Just for the heck of it, and since it is a sunny afternoon, I tried some different combinations with my 5D MK III and my 100mm L.
First, a short extension ring.  That worked and so did autofocus, its a reasonable handheld near 1:1 solution.
Then, I put the camera on my light table mounted to a sturdy bolted down head.
I used liveview to try the tube, tube plus canon 1.4X, tube plus Canon 2X, and tube plus both TC's.  In all cases, I was able to use live autofocus, but the image without TC's and just the tube was the clearest.
I also had a old non reporting 2X TC (Quantaray) which came with a used film body.  It did not need a tube, live AF worked fine.
Then, I took the tube and Canon TC's outside into the bright sunlit outdoors to try phase detect AF.  It was unacceptable in all cases, and could only rarely fix on the target.  I tried both AI Servo and one shot.
Just the short tube worked fine.
So, with a tube and TC, the camera will not autofocus in any soet of reliable manner.  This is my second 5D MK III, as I recall, the first one worked the same way.
If you are doing live view AF, use a self timer, and it will be acceptable with a 1.4X, but just tubes might be better if you can get close enough. Manual focus works as well, of course.
Good Luck.

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