« on: April 10, 2013, 12:07:40 AM »
Charge it fully, just as your manual tells you to on pg 29. It takes about 2.5 hours.
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The subject got me thinking of how I loved my 40D's. I sold my old backup 10D with a few old EF lenses last weekend, and picked up a nice relatively low usage (13,000) 40D for $250 this evening. Original box, manuals, looking like new.The 40D is a very nice camera, I've had five of them. I'd consider buying another if the price was right. $200 - $250 is a good deal if its a nice low usage body. The problem is that on our local Craigslist, prices are silly.
I have seen 40D bodies on Adorama for $250-$275 bucks and believe me they sell as quickly as they are posted. Local prices range from $300-$350 for a body only. Once the rumored 70D hits the market I bet you will start seeing a lot more 40D's in the range of $200-$250. I still think $300 for a good used 40D body is very reasonable, esp for what you get for that price.
So then is the canon 35l the better buy or should I pursue getting this lens adjusted? The quality is worth it not the money. I doubt I will shoot at 1.4 much more like 1.8 2.0 or higher just to have a walk about lens which is also why I was wondering about the 35 f2 is but the reviews do not seem so glowing.
I hear that the Kenko maybe better than the Canon II, but not he Canon III. Anyway if your not sure you can always rent the Canon to compare and if you find that it's a real difference that you can't live with between the Canon and the Kenko then return it and keep (purchase) the other.The 1.4 DGX I bought was not quite as good as my Canon MK II, I bought it to use for f/8 AF on my 5D MK III. I particularly hoped to use it on my 100L and my 100-400L. It worked great on my 100-400mmL, but not at all on the 100L. The 100L needs a lot of AFMA, so it turning it off would have required totally manual focus which I did not want.
Its very difficult to design a ultra wide angle lens and get sharp undistorted edges, and still sell it at a popular price. Most users of rebels would not consider a high price for a truly excellent lens.
The new15mm Zeiss is easily the best.
I totally agree with you.
However, if you are looking for a very sharp and even cheaper ultra wide angle lens, you can check for the Samyang 14mm f/2.8. The biggest down sides? Very heavy "mustache" distortion, no possibility to put filters and the fact that it is a manual lens, though at 14mm, autofocus is not very useful, especially if you use hyoerfocals. If you can live with those, you can have a 14mm almost as sharp as the 2360$ Canon 14mm, but for about 400$.
Couldn't download your original file, so I took the JPeG from ksuweh's post then took into PS
There has been a recent thread on CR regarding Nik Software plugin for PS and LR, so I tried Silver Efex Pro 2 in Photoshop -> selected Modern template and Neutral, but then just added a Control Point to the face of the singer (placed the centre of the circle on his nose, then adjusted Brightness, Contrast, Structure, Fine Structure etc.)
Basically the problem area is the two-tone shadow on the singer's face. This is precisely what Nik Software plugins are designed for - to edit localized areas of the picture without destroying the rest of the scene.
I really like the Fine Structure detail option as it allows the face to really pop-out (eyebrows, nose etc.) and is great for fixing soft focus too. Finally, I reduced the image size to make it acceptable size for upload.
Avoid current confusion and possible current and future incompatibility - buy the Canon 1.4xIII (or II for lower cost).Quote from: malte_pps:
i don´t want the protruting element on the canon TC, i maybe want to use the TC one day on other lenses too, so it´s kenko for me.
the canons are nice for the white ones starting from 70-200mm but can´t be used with most other lenses.
i think the kenkos give me more flexibility.
They give you the flexibility of turning your camera into a brick. The Kenko Pro DGX 300 1.4x locked up my 5DIII with several lenses but worked with some, as reported by others for their cameras.
Hi,What editing software do you use? Someone could do a edit for you and explain the settings.
This weekend I have shot my very first concert, and I came up with some pretty good shots and some that I dont know how to edit.
I uploaded to wetransfer.com a RAW shot that I took, to see what I am talking about.
My main problem is that I have really big contrast between some highlights and shadows. On the skin of the singer you can even see clearly the line how it goes from highlight to shadow.
Is that any way to save it?
I would like to have the final result in B&W.
Any advice is appreciated.