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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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Tens of thousands of users have not been reporting the issue, so it is a puzzle as to what is happening.  Problems with equipment often are batch related, for example, a certain microchip or other hardware or firmware can be bad for a lot of product.
From your description, its not even clear if its a lens issue or a camera body issue.  It could still be a lens issue, and just not showing up yet.
Let us know if it happens again.

Canon General / Re: How do you display your pictures?
« on: November 12, 2012, 09:38:36 PM »
My large flat screen TV can display images via the SD slot or network connection in my DVD player.  It will continuously produce a slide show, which prevents burn-in of the screen, and is available in most recent DVD players.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Bauer flash question
« on: November 12, 2012, 09:31:17 PM »
Early DSLR's were susceptable to high voltage at the triggering of a flash.  Canon redesigned the flash circuits so 250 volts is not a concern, but I'd stay away from flashes that produce 400v or higher.
here is a popular list
Old flash units can be had for $5, so just pick a low voltage one, imho.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Dslr upgrade: I found my Niche
« on: November 12, 2012, 09:16:39 PM »
Hey guys, I've found what I specialize at, and I'm looking to upgrade.
I'm now specializing in sailing(action sports), and I enjoy portraits and landscapes. Im trying to decide on a dslr, and it's hard to decide.

What I need:
-aps-h or full-frame sensor: I can maneuver close enough to boats where I can use a 70-200 at 200mm, or I can use my 2x extender
-good focusing: the sailors are moving fast
-good ISO performance: I need high shutter speeds, at f4 and 5.6 if I use my extenders. Fps isn't a big deal, 5-8 works.

I'd prefer the 1d series due to the bulk since the weight will prevent shake, and the weather sealing is important, even though I'll have a cover, I don't want to take any chances.
I'm wavering between the 1diii, iiis, and 1div.
I really don't want to go to the mark ii, because even my friend who owns one is confused by it.
Rather than use a extender, I'd recommend a 1D MK IV.  I had to give up and sell mine because of hand problems holding it, but the 1.3 crop and f/8 AF makes it excellent for focal length limited situations.
The 1D X is also a excellent choice, but putting a TC on or off a lens while in a boat is risky, and using a big white in a boat is even more difficult.

maybe you guys just haven't read as many reviews and opinions as I have. A few times I've read that the 1dmk4 had much better lowlight AF using the spot AF setting.
How much have you used the 1D MK IV, or have you just read about it?
The 1D MK IV, unlike the 7D only has spot AF with the supertelephoto lenses, which are not typically used for weddings. It does not have spot AF for ordinary lenses.
1D MK IV is inferior in low light to the 1D MK III and to the 5D MK II.  The 5D MK III and 1DX have very good low light AF, but I've found, like others here, that if you wait for the AF to display the red grid, it takes a long time.  However, if you just press the shutter down, it focuses and opens the shutter quickly. 
I do not understand why it takes so long for the focus indicator to light, but since I get in-focus shots quickly by just holding and pressing the shutter, thats what I do.

Lenses / Re: lowlight lens Af action resource?
« on: November 12, 2012, 08:58:49 PM »
well, just the other day i noticed that someone somewhere on here said something about how they loved their 135f2, but the focus was not so great. now, i know that's bull cause i've used one for an indoor soccer tourney, but this is the sort of stuff you can find all over the net. So no one has made an even somewhat scientific test minded test? with all these sites out there, nothing?
just stupid stuff, like the site i read the other day where the guy was recommending a 24TS for sports, and a 50mm1.2, and 75-300 IS L as good beginner's lenses.  I forget what the recommended the 90mm TS for, but it was retarded. actually, I don't even have a clue what a 90mm TS might be really good for, but i bet it has a use. 

 it must... right? 

Most will tell you that the lens focuses quickly. 
In regards to some sort of a scientific test, in order to be scientific, you need a test procedure that is repeatable so others can run the same test and confirm the results.
Any given lens will focus differently on different subjects and test charts, on different camera bodies, and, of course different brightness or color of light.  This means that one person could use the lens in a situation where it was slow to focus while another might use it where it focused quickly.
So far, no one has stepped up to coming up with any sort of test method to determine the speed of a autofocus lens that is scientific or repeatable.

EOS Bodies / Re: Has Canon entered the Graveyard Spiral?
« on: November 12, 2012, 03:52:48 PM »
Just stating a unsupported opinion as fact is not very impressive and leavs a trollish taste in my mouth. :)

Unsupported opinion as fact is acceptable, 47% of people are aware of this and accept it.
Well, there do seem to be plenty who believe that way.  I guess that having worked for now Ford CEO Allen Mulally, I was brainwashed into being a data driven manager ;)

Lenses / Re: 85 1.2 L2 not sharp at 1.2
« on: November 12, 2012, 03:14:08 PM »
i got a new copy and what a difference it is at 1.2  :D . im going to test it out.

thanks for the replies.
Lenses do get damaged in shipping, or just have quality issues.  If you cannot get sharp images using liveview live AF, then get it fixed or get a replacement as you did.
I'm glad you recognized the issue and did something about it. 

Lenses / Re: For those who say 85L is too low..
« on: November 12, 2012, 03:08:45 PM »
I did not see any images that I thought would tax the autofocus of any Canon or even a third party lens.

If  a photographer is capturing a series of photos of a subject rapidly moving toward him and needs them all to be in focus so he can catch a critical moment, thats where excellent and fast focus makes a difference.  Then, its a combination of body and lens that makes a difference. For example, 1 series bodies use more voltage to drive the focus motor faster than say a 5D MK III can.  They have a 12volt battery versus 7.2 which is a huge difference.

Using one shot AF, try focusing on something close, then point the camera at a distant object and press the shutter fully.  The camera will take the image when the lens is focused.  Compare that with a 85mm f/1.8.  You will see a huge difference in the time it takes to focus.

However, its only that one initial focus that takes the long time. Subsequent shots that are more or less at the same distance, focus will be fast.  Thats why its not a problem in actual use.

EOS Bodies / Re: Has Canon entered the Graveyard Spiral?
« on: November 12, 2012, 02:54:53 PM »
A thoughtful analysis of sales and profits by quarter over the past 4 or 5 years might be some actual data that would support such a theory.
Just stating a unsupported opinion as fact is not very impressive and leavs a trollish taste in my mouth. :)

Lenses / Re: Revenge of the Primes
« on: November 12, 2012, 01:14:08 PM »
Its likely that the 24-85 range of primes use the same or very similar optical formula.  the 24 might not.  A ultra wide like 20mm is going to be difficult to make, so Canon will look at potential sales volume versus the amount of money they can charge.  I suspect the sales volume will be low, so the price would be high.  Can they charge $900 for a 20mm f/4 or $1500 for a f/2.8?

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Semi-Erotic Photography: Questions...
« on: November 12, 2012, 01:08:57 PM »
OK, I read though this.  All good suggestions.  I don't have experience with erotic photography per se but I would offer this common sense advice about location...

Strip clubs are a different world.  You live in New Orleans, you should already understand that better than most.  Whenever you bring strangers to your home, they know where you live.  They also know what you own.  You become a target for theft, or worse.  What if a shoot goes poorly or a perfectly good shoot pisses off a boyfriend or husband.  You're screwed.  Re-read the law enforcement inspired post above about what habits these people may (or may not) have.  These girls live a rough lifestyle.  Even if they are trustworthy, someone they know may not be and after hearing about your place, may decide it's a payday.

If you drive a car with a fancy stereo and people know it, it will eventually be broken into.  Same goes for your house/apt with a bunch of photo equipment.

I don't care who you know or how nice they are.  Other people they know have the potential to cause you grief, loss or harm.  If it were me, I would always work on location with a partner (for your safety and theirs).  No one on one, always have another person there with you.  Meet at another home or hotel room with background equipment and lights.  Don't bring a bunch of strangers parading through your home where you live and keep everything you own.  It's just a bad idea.  You will either arrive back to a trashed home or worse, have someone visit you with bad intentions.  (Are you the A$$Hole Pervert that took pictures of my wife naked!!??)

Sorry, some things aren't worth the risk and you don't owe these people any favors.  Don't shortcut this, do it right.  There's a reason the pro studios actually have studios.  With locks and alarms.  It sounds like to me you are moving into the business too fast.  Figure out how to go to them and then work your way up to a studio as the business grows.

Yep....I've been quite hesitant to bring anyone to MY house...I was thinking to rent a hotel room or something....maybe something down IN the Quarter....nice rooms, and the girls would be near work..etc?

I is likely going to be after the first of the year before I have time for, will pondering the parameters and logistics...

Thank you to all for the great advice....keep it coming as you think of things...

I'm sure that there are photo studios for rent, and they might even include some proper lighting.

Raw is corrections or in camera adjustments will be made even though you have the settings configured in your camera.  All Raw adjustments must be done in post processing.

Configured corrections will be applied ONLY to JPG files.

Note, that in some bodies, the corrections will affect the drive mode buffer by reducing number of shots that can be taken in sequence.  This is due to the extra processing required to make the corrections.  Also note that once the corrections are made to a JPG, they cannot be undone.

Most bodies support creating a corrected JPG from a RAW image in camera so you can have both.

Distortion correction is not supported in camera. The other corrections do exist.
Now I have enabled both features. However, unless I activate the lens correction in Camera Raw (which contains the lens profile) I do not see these corrections.
So I am cannot tell if something is happening in the Camera ! I have a question here  :o
THANKS! It seems I have missed the obvious! (plus I usually shoot only raw so there was no hope that I would see these corrections).
You can make them in DPP, but do it sparingly, since the size of the corrected cr2 image file will be approximately 2X - 3X the size of the uncorrected one.

Software & Accessories / Re: Eye-Fi Card on 7D
« on: November 11, 2012, 11:53:26 PM »
Why do you need this?  I thought it was cool and got it for my 5D III, and it gave me "error 80"s about 1 out every 50 shots.

But again, why?
There are plenty of valid reasons to want a wireless download or a transfer to a tablet or to the internet immediately after a image is taken.  Sometimes there is a person  miles away waiting for your image.  The eye-fi card is a budget way to do this, it just isn't working on a 7D.

I've found that if you half press the shutter button and wait for the AF  light to and point to flash, it takes 3 sec or more.  However, if I just press the shutter button down all the way, it focuses in about 1 second or less and fires with perfectly sharp focus.
It does this regardless of AF-Assist or not.  So, if you are waiting for the AF- Assist to stop flashing to take the image, just press and hold the shutter button.  It fires as soon as focus is reached rather than delaying another 2-3 seconds before the focus points light up.

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