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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5d2 vs 6d
« on: November 18, 2012, 12:15:49 PM »

But my main complain: Does the focus of the 5d2 really suck balls in low light (sorry for the words)?
I know how good High-ISO is and i love the body and the button layout but i never handled one in low light.
Up until the 5D MK III, the 5D MK II with center point was the best low light AF body Canon made.  Its wonderful.  This is a well known fact.  its also well known that the 5D MK II does not do nearly as well with other than center points, don't even bother with them.
I loved the 40d, I had five of them, and have had two 5D MK II's, which are a much better camera.  I also noticed that the 2nd 5D MK II had a much lower sensor noise than my first one, I think Canon's sensor manufacturing quality has improved over the 4 years its been out.
The 5D MK III is better.  I have no issue with low light AF speed and the 5D MK III. 
We just do not know about the 6D yet, but Canon has cut some features to justify the lower price.  I think you will be very happy with a 5D MK II.  As they begin selling out, the price will rise, much as it did with the original 5d a few years ago.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Nikon D600 price drop $1,996
« on: November 18, 2012, 11:56:45 AM »
As Christmas approaches, and sales are slow, we will see lots of special deals.  don't be suprised to see some 10% off specials for a very short period.

The standard sync speed for a flash will probably work well for what you describe as slow moving subjects.  Don't make things more difficult than they need be.  I'd try several different methods, thats how you learn.
I'd think, however, that bouncing flash off the blue mats will result in a mixed color, which is difficult or impossible to totally correct without extreme editing.
I'd also be wary of the lights in the gymn.  Often the lights they use flicker at the line frequency, or they cause color issues.  This means you will need the full power from your flash to overcome this.
The only way to tell is to try different things and see what works best for you.  Things that work best for others may not work for you due to the different lighting in your gymn.
BTW, use manual or TV, don't play with AV in your situation.  The 5D MK II will be fine, just use the center point.  You are not going to use the AF points to track movement anyway.

Lenses / Re: BIG MEGAPIXELS small lenses?
« on: November 18, 2012, 12:10:13 AM »
Again my boss told me the light might not hit the sensor in a perfect 90° angle with analog lenses what resolves in blur towards the corners. Even more extrem on wide angle glass. Is that true? Because if so, the lenses i mentioned aren't that old beside the 50mm, so they should be corrected for canon dslrs, right?
That is certainly true, and always has been true, the light rays only strike the film / sensor at 90 degrees in the center.  Digital has little to do with that.
Lenses are corrected to focus at the edges, but its never as good as the center.  This has little to do with the number of photosites, its true for film cameras as well.
There is a issue with digital cameras that makes light falloff at the corners and edges worse, the photosites have depth to them, so the outer photosites are partially shaded and do not receive as much light as the grain at the outer edges of film.  The signal from the outer photosites is amplified to account for this, and that creates more noise and less resolution at the edges and corners.
Generally, large sensors also have larger diameter photosites which helps compensate for the shallow angle.  As the number of sensors increases, and the photosite size dimishes, the light falloff increases.
My explanation is likely confusing, its difficult to explain.
I believe your professor probably understands the situation well, but its a complex thing to grasp and teach.
There is some good reading at this site that might help.
Good luck, its always good to see a new member who wants to learn.

When you are purchasing a camera, you are not just buying a body, but are buying into a system.  The body is important, but the lenses are much more important and more expensive.  Then, there are accessories like flash, and be sure to look into manufacturer support and service turnaround times.
I bought a D800 along with a few high end lenses.  At ISO 100 the camera is truly impressive, as ISO increases, there is less DR and at about ISO 800, I started to be disappointed, but it is fine with a lot of NR.
Thats where the problems begin.  NR processing of large files means wait, wait, and wait.  I took 500+ images at a low light event, and DR was poor, and processing took several days.
I also found that Nikon has yet to have but a few lenses that can match the sensor. 
If you are taking landscape images at ISO 100 and have the top lenses then I highly recommend the D800.  For all around use, it is a struggle, particularly if you use raw and process a lot of images.
So, it is great for some and frustrating for others. I won't recommend either, but be sure you price a entire system and make sure you have the fastest computer available with a ton of memory.

Lenses / Re: 600mm Lens serial number
« on: November 17, 2012, 06:34:38 PM »
There is no table of serial numbers.  I recommend not interefering with a auction, if you cost a legitimate seller money or a sale, and he can track you down, he'd likely file a criminal complaint, since it is unlawful to interfere with a auction.

Lenses / Re: When to switch lenses during events?
« on: November 17, 2012, 02:06:23 PM »
Thanks Neuro! I'd probably have to carry my bag around then, as I don't have a belt for my lenses.
One question, f4 would indeed be a tad slow, so should I leave my 24-105 at home?

If you can use a flash, it will be fine.
At parties, there can be mixed light, or bright and dark areas that you cannot control.  I'd strongly recommend a flash, you will likely need it for some shots.

EOS Bodies / Re: Bracketing Focus (automatically)
« on: November 17, 2012, 12:08:40 PM »
Magic lantern does this, its a handy feature for stills and used in a process known as focus stacking.  There is other software Helicon) that will do it to a tethered camera via the usb link as well.
I've used it in the past.  Its popular with Macro photographers, since stacking images that are each focused at a slightly different place can result in a image with a huge depth of field that no lens can achieve.

Pricewatch Deals / Re: Black friday - Canon rebates?
« on: November 17, 2012, 12:03:49 PM »
Usually, online discounts happen on black friday.  Usually there are bigger discounts the following Monday (Cyber Monday).
I expect them this year as well, MAP or not.

If you go to a store in person, you can often negotiate a discount on a large purchase.  Its difficult for stores to discount the rebate deals, they have to advance the rebate, and then send in all the proof that they gave out the rebates and charged the Canon specified price.  They sometimes throw in some extras, but the rebate prices seem to hold firm.

One exception is Profeel (PMI) who sells on ebay at a big discount.  They are a authorized dealer but operate on a tight budget.  You can call them and try to negotiate a discount.

Lenses / Re: How long are the current lens instant rebates slated to last?
« on: November 17, 2012, 03:06:35 AM »
The rebates have been going continuously for several months, and continue to get larger.  Don't worry, they will continue until the economy gets better.  Look for some really good deals in December.

Lenses / Re: Kit for travelling around the world for 2 years!
« on: November 17, 2012, 03:04:31 AM »
I think you have the right gear.  Presumably, you have batteries and storage means or plan to back up images somehow.  Large memory cards are expensive, but laptops can fail or get stolen while memory cards can be tucked away safely where they might not be easily found by a thief.

Does anyone know why the 50x figure is often recommended? Personally I use the distance I normally use the lens at most. For example 50x for a 100 macro is 5 meters and on the odd occasion I use it at that distance f/2.8 isn't that focus critical, for true macro I usually manually focus so I set mine at about 1 meter which tends to be about the range I use most for quick handheld snaps where AF is important.

Its fine to use it at your commonly used distances.  25-50X is recommended because that provides a wide range of correction.  If you move much closer than 25X, many lenses will start to front focus, so if you always shoot close, thats fine, but longer distances may not be focused as accurately.
Also note that it is not really crucial to have a lens perfectly focused, most of the time, a small error of a few points AFMA is not noticible.
The actual curve below shows this,  there is little difference in sharpness at the peak of the curve, even if AF is off by +/- 3 points.

EOS Bodies / Re: 5D3 lens correction profiles - only jpg?
« on: November 17, 2012, 02:49:27 AM »
Does LR4 not recognise that metadata?
No, it does not recognize if the lens correction is turned on in camera.  It does not see the lens correction data that DPP adds to the CR2 file.
LR4 has its own lens correction data which can be applied automatically, or just for images you want.  It is not saved to the cr2 file.

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 5DmIII for $2,199
« on: November 17, 2012, 02:39:48 AM »
Right now, $2799 is the lowest price I see.

Lenses / Re: How long and how much: new 100-400L
« on: November 17, 2012, 02:37:56 AM »
People keep predicting a replacement, and have been for the last 7 or more years. 
IMHO, its wishful thinking.  There is really no competition for the existing lens, Nikon has been rumored to have a improved 80-400mm coming, but their existing one is more expensive and inferior.
Why make a slightly better one for 2-3 times the price?
For the quality and price, the 100-400mmL is a bargain. 

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