If you do not need a lens, its probably not a good idea. Personally, I always find a excuse for buying a new lens. I could buy a 16-35mm l, 70-200mm f/2.8L, and several others that might be part of the deal.
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Wondering if someone can help me here, I have only had my 5d3 for about three weeks. I tried to do a few macro shots today, (Close ups of flowers) using the kit lens.The 24-105mmL kit lens is not a macro lens, so if you get too close, it will not achieve sharp focus and if your camera is set to single shot, the shutter will not release.
Autofocus was spot on looking through the view finder but I could not get the camera to take the picture, nothing happened when pushing shutter. If I dropped to manual focus on lens or zoomed further out it worked fine. I haven't done much Macro before, is there something I am missing?
Or was the camera telling me I was too close even though it looked ok?
*chimes in* If AI Servo gets to have black focus points I'd be happy, always a red confirmation would be even better.AI servo shoots whether in focus or not. Thats why it doesn't light. USE AI Servo when you will be happy with near focus shots, or maybe totally out of focus shots if you force it to fire. On the 5D MK III and 1 DX, you can select in focus priority for only the first shot, or for all shots, it depends on the subject.
I use a 5D and a 20D, and I always use them in AI-servo. I shoot from weddings to airshows. The unlit points have never even crossed my mind. Is there something about the cameras in question that makes this an issue on them where it's not on my 5D and 20D?Yes! The 61 AF points are tiny and have thin lines around them. Those lines identifying the AF point are near invisible in low light. The 7D has a similar setup, but with fewer and larger AF points and thick lines they are much more visible. Itd even easier to see the points on my 5D MK II, only nine of them, and they light up nicely upon focus. You can even see them light up in the daylight, but not with the 5D MK III.
Hell no! I spent 2 weeks looking at all these fake sites in New York. They have fake scammy reviews that are 5 stars then a few real 1 star reviews. They all do the same thing. Take your money, call you to try to up-sell you before they ship the item( if they even try to ship it). Then they usually give you a grey market, used, opened, or bootleg item.Yes, I've noticed a lot of good reviews lately for known scammera. As long as they post from various IP addresses, they can beat the system. I have zero trust in Reseller Ratings, they just cannot prevent companies from scamming the system.
I've just taken delivery of a new Canon 7D (body only) for work. I've been recommended three lenses by the supplier who know what I'm going to be using the camera for:Of the Canon Cameras, only the T4i (so far) will autofocus for video and track motion. Its probably not going to work well for fast moving subjects, but far better than the 7D, which does not autofocus doing video ar all.
50mm F/1.2L prime lens
I'm going to be using it mostly for shooting videos in the mountains (in all weather types) in the UK, indoor/outdoor and under studio lights. I know that the lenses are just as important as the camera (or more important depending on what you have) but there seems to be a huge range in pricing for the range I've been recommended.
Unfortunately, the company I work for has a tight budget, but I don't want to get something cheaper and then find it's not going to get the best results.
I shoot a wide range of stuff, from a static shot of presenters in a podcast, to tracking someone skiing past me or with me skiing with them.
Could I ditch the prime lens and make do with the 70-200 and the 15-85?
Someone else recommended the Canon 50mm f1.8 which they said although a bit plasticy produced great results. Plus the Sigma 10-20mm F3.5 EX DC HSM as another option.
I haven't shot video with a DSLR before so please excuse my ignorance!
My budget is around £1500 (US$2300)