Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Which grass is considered greener (do nikonians complain as much as canonians)?« on: September 01, 2014, 06:07:48 PM »
Who cares about grass? I'm carnivore.
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Who cares about grass? I'm carnivore.
It's too bad your thread didn't come a few days earlier -- Amazon had the i1Display Pro on sale for $189.
Getting a tool to calibrate your monitor really is necessary if you want the best results. Another thing to keep in mind is that your monitor will need to be recalibrated periodically, as it will drift over time. I recalibrate mine every month or so.
Monitor calibration is just one half of the situation. The other is the printing side. Not sure if they will, but if Costco can provide you with an ICC/ICM profile for the printer/paper combination they use, you can load that in Lightroom to "soft-proof" your images before sending them out to print. I agree with others in asking their techs what colorspace to edit in for best results.
Just a side note, I have a Dell IPS display calibrated with the i1Display Pro. It's paired with the Canon PIXMA Pro-100 that I picked up from Adorama (with 50 sheets of 13"x19" paper) for $34, after rebate (I tell you this because they tend to do these deals a few times a year). As long as I turn OFF color management in the printer driver's advanced settings and then load the Canon profile in Lightroom and tell Lightroom to manage the color, I get beautiful prints that match my display. In fact, I was quite giddy at my first batch of prints (after figuring out to turn off the printer driver's color management -- it gave a magenta cast).
I hope this helps some!
Bro, the simple truth is, if you want to play in this league, you're going to have to sack up and invest a little bit. I'm assuming, and truly hope, that when you print you turn off any color correction or management by the printing lab. That means, if your print comes back not looking ideal, you're out the money and can't get a refund. Hardware like the DataColor will easily pay for itself. It's just one of those pieces of gear that you need, kind of like a tripod if you do landscape photography.
It's such a jaw dropping, amazing, and enlightening experience the first time you run the color calibration software on your monitor. It allows you to switch back and forth between calibrated and uncalibrated at the click of a mouse button, and you just begin to wonder how you ever even edited photos on the vomit-like uncalibrated settings of the monitor.
Worth noting is that the shuttercounts reported by the camera do not actually appear to be completely reliable. I've done a bit of testing across various EOS models about 18 months ago and the shutter count does not always increase exactly with the number of shutter actuations. Before you ask, yes, I have tried turned the cameras off and on again and pulling the battery between actuations and readouts.
Simply put, I've seen variances up to 30% during my tests, though I'm not at all sure why sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't update. If you care about this sort of thing it is easy enough to test yourself, though I have no idea if your camera will behave the same way. Of course, for most uses even a full 30% difference isn't all that relevant, just found it curious enough to mention.
Your plan sounds good. In addition to your colour bars, I'd also get a few regular photos printed to work with, too. But you're probably doing that anyway.
Keep your eyes open for some good printer+Paper deals (such as the Pixma Pro 100). Having your own printer is very convenient and helps with consistent output.
As noted, the US and the Canadian dollar is quite strong against the yen, so the price needed to be dropped to offset gray market sales. Due to the stronger dollar, companies can purchase camera inventory overseas for less and sell it in the US at deep discounts and still pocked a lot of profit.
The British pound is strong against the yen, but any price changes will be decided by Canon Europe. The same issue of gray market imports should force the price down.
Those $250 "M" cameras are a good example of the weaker yen plus poor sales.
If I were you I'd buy a 50 1.8 and see how often you actually use it.
It's a fine lens. So is the 85 1.8.
The 85 1.2 is good in a studio on a tripod. It's harder to use in the fly. At 1.2 there isn't much forgiveness in depth of field and you need an ND filter in sunlight.
The 40 2.8 Is an option I don't use it enough but is also quite a nice lens.
With your buying pattern I'd say the Sigma art is the best choice for you.
Fishing championship... funny... really funny. or the Neighbors annual Labor Day backyard Corn hole event. I hear ESPN 8 (the ocho) will be doing wall to wall coverage.
September announcements are for products for Christmas - user cameras/accessories. Pro bodies should be expected before major event - like fishing championship
Photokina is right around the corner. Nothing on 5D 4 and 1DX II? No rumors, nothing...
I bought the 85mm 1.2 II because of its ability to shoot @ 1.2.
This allows me to take very creative portraits. It's a heavy and slow focusing lens (relatively speaking).
I personally don't understand comparing 1.2 lens to anything else but 1.2 lens.
Stopping down to 1.4 and comparing at 1.4 to the sigma art doesn't make sense to me.
I have a Canon 50 1.4 (and had a 50 1.. I would consider it a fair comparison to compare it to the Sigma 1.4.
I quite like the Canon. It's not the sharpest at 1.4 but it has a lovely vignette and creates a nice look.
If I were buying a canon 1.2 it would only be for its shallow depth of field @1.2. If I was going to mainly be stopping down Id buy the 1.4 or 1.8 which are much lighter.
I love all these types of discussions and comparisons because I always want to know which is the best.
But I am also experienced enough to know a bad workman blames his tools..
A 50 1.2 might be better than a 50 1.4 but I like 99% of the members of Canon Rumors are not good enough to show this in real world photos.
I got up at 05:00 yesterday morning and took out of focus photographs of a beautiful sunrise over the sea with a 24mm TS-E II. It wasn't the lens wasn't sharp.
It was the brain of the photographer .
But it was a wonderful privilege to witness the sun rising. That memory will last a lot longer than the out of focus photographs.
Drop the charts for a while and try it for yourself.
But keep these discussions going because they are enjoyable too
I'm curious to see if someone knows how to adjust color calibration with a flat image, but I don't.
Same for rentals, but one of those calibrators is something you could share with a group of friends - x-rite doesn't bother with DRM for the software because you need the device to accomplish anything with it.