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Messages - Sporgon

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May I ask you for some advice:

My 6D has an temporary problem with the front wheel. I am (problem occurs sometime rare, sometime each hour one time) not able to change the setting (Av, time,...) with the front wheel. But the wheel on the high-format grip works well. (If I remove the battery grip, I does not fix the problem). I have to remove the battery for some minutes, then the front wheel works well again.
The second temproray problems belongs to the AF: In servo mode, it occurs that the AF stops working, although the trigger is pressed halfway. The I have to press the trigger button a few time, then it works again.
Did anybody have such a problem too? What was the problem of your 6D?

My problem is, that the CPS service company  returned the cam without finding anything. They just took 5 shots (as the numbers of shots is just 5 higher than my last shot).

Are you using genuine Canon battery grip or an after market maker ?

Pricewatch Deals / Re: 24-70mm f/4L IS: atomic rebate in Switzerland !
« on: November 03, 2014, 03:28:44 PM »
I've been predicting that we will see the lens for $700 by Christmas.  Few want one, and its undoubtedly cheap to make.

It may possibly be relatively cheap to make; it doesn't use a ground glass aspherical element like the 24-70 / 2.8 for one thing, but I don't think it is cheap to assemble. Roger at Lens Rentals stated that it has an unprecedented amount of adjustment on the elements, and I'm guessing that inexperienced / poorly trained assembly in the early days caused some of the bad reviews.

Pricewatch Deals / Re: 24-70mm f/4L IS: atomic rebate in Switzerland !
« on: November 03, 2014, 03:24:45 PM »
I've been predicting that we will see the lens for $700 by Christmas.  Few want one, and its undoubtedly cheap to make.

I wanted one, but since the good people of this forum insist on the awesomeness of 24-70 f/2.8 II, i find my self unable to resist getting the more expensive one.

Welcome to the corruption of Canon Rumors  ;)

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 7Dii vs Nikon D750 Dynamic Range Test
« on: November 02, 2014, 03:46:12 PM »

I doubt tinkering around with the microlenses will make a big difference, reminds me of what they marketed on 5d2->5d3 and we know how much of a difference that made.

No, the 5DIII has significant improvements over the 5DII, but they are subtleties that the philistonian user may not appreciate or recognise.

Unlike an increase from 12 to 36 mp.

Lenses / Re: Sigma or Canon (50mm 1.4)
« on: November 01, 2014, 04:23:20 PM »
Im in the market for a 50mm 1.4 but I would like if anyone can give me a suggestion of which lense to choose from sigma 50mm 1.4 (not the art) or canon 1.4 (pros & cons)  I shoot with a 60D

I would say the general consensus out there is that the Sigma 50 DG focuses much better on an APS camera such as your 60D than it does on a FF.

However don't discount the EF 50 1.4. It is actually capable of producing stunning results, fragile mechanism not withstanding.

And then the blacks:

To summarise, we have lost saturation in the lighter blue and have gained nothing in the smoothness of the blacks.

Here are the second two after applying appropriate curves etc..

Though I have found that well over exposed very subtle evening skies cannot be lowered to accurately reflect the tonality of a more traditionally exposed shot, I have never learnt why.

That is what I find, and I believe the reason that that we are losing accuracy with that level of over exposure, especially saturation.

I remember the original article produced by LL in 2002 regarding over exposure to achieve an improved raw file, and in those days they were dealing with( no surprise), digital tech from 2002, where tonal transition was poor compared with film, especially with CMOS, which was (IMO) inferior to CCD at that time. They were referring to the fact that if you did not have data recorded in the top one fifth of the histogram you were losing fifty percent of the potential information., which is correct in theory, but, doesn't deal with lose of accuracy and saturation.

It is now generally accepted that to maximise the IQ potential in a scene that includes bright and dark you want to pull the recorded data across to the right as much as much as possible in order to preserve information in the dark areas, allowing specular highlights to blow etc; it's all sound practice.

There is a benefit from over exposing a relatively small amount and then bringing the raw file back down in post. Look at the effect of pulled ISOs on SNR on some cameras.

However in the recent article, suggesting that the optimum exposure for the black cat is the one on the right is just a load of bull. You might get away with it when the majority of the tones are black, but that doesn't mean it is sound technique.

I took a couple of comparison shots to try and show what I mean, and have incorporated blue as it helps with the difference.

The first picture (ending 5) is exposed using settings determined by an incident light meter. The matrix metering of the camera was wanting to overexpose by two thirds of a stop more.

The second picture (ending in 6) is over exposed from the 'correct' exposure by two full stops. This was then reduced by two stops before converting the raw to 16 bit TIFF. Even with the pictures reduced for web display you can ( hopefully, I haven;t seen them yet of course) see the difference in the blue.

In the second two images, both at 50%, I have applied the appropriate curves and saturation, and then balanced the lesser exposed one in levels to equal them up. The loss of saturation in the blue bucket is clear, and I cannot get it back to being identical.

The final two images are at 100% of the black buckets and there is no difference in 'IQ' or noise. Overall the correctly exposed image is the better one.

Lenses / Re: Canon 6d vs 24-70mm mark ii
« on: October 30, 2014, 02:18:52 PM »
A lens is always above a body... Go for the 24-70, great lens! :)

Not at all sure that that is always the correct way to look at it, especially when there are leaps forward in technology.

I would go for a 6D and get your 24-70 f2.8 tuned up by a Canon 'L' lens specialist service centre.

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 7D Mark II Owners first thoughts
« on: October 30, 2014, 10:01:43 AM »
I'm fascinated by your frame numbers; you haven't got to 9967 already have you ?

EOS Bodies / Re: Modular DSLR Coming from Canon? [CR2]
« on: October 29, 2014, 02:10:23 PM »
Wouldn't surprise me if the modular bit is the interchangeable viewfinder / prism, one the usual optical pentaprism for use in 'still' photography, and another an EVF primarily intended for video use.

Technical Support / Re: failing shutter on 60D
« on: October 29, 2014, 05:51:00 AM »

Glad it is sorted, but there goes your excuse to upgrade!

I disagree. If ever Don needed a really thorough weather sealed camera, here is the proof. Or rather a fur sealed camera.

HDR just looks tacky,IMHO, even carefully done.

I think jdramirez was referring to creating a higher dynamic range picture through bracket and blend rather than 'HDR'. I agree with you, HDR programs can make the picture look cartoon-like; pretty awful to my eye.

Exposing correctly for the highlights and shadows is vastly superior to pushing data, and blending is very easy to do nowadays: handheld is no problem as cameras shoot faster and programs can auto align. Generally someone is going to get much better results by upgrading their computer / software rather than 'upgrading' to the latest high DR camera.

Technical Support / Re: failing shutter on 60D
« on: October 28, 2014, 06:29:32 PM »
Fixing a failing shutter can be done with a $6 part, assuming that you are able / willing to tackle the job, and, of course, that the issue is not with the shutter motor.

Oh my, why didn't anyone mention this before?! You might just have saved me €1000 for a new crop backup dslr.

* Are there any differences between the shutter blades offered on ebay (the price varies a lot), or is this just the sellers making a different amount of profit?

* Did you know how complicated it is to chance the shutter myself, any links on this? Of course I'm going to google it myself, too, but since you brought it up you might have some more insight than the first random search engine hits.
It was an even cheaper repair.
I brought the camera in to work today, so that I could look at the shutter under magnification...I spent my lunch removing tightly wound fine cat hair (thank you Fluffy) from around the pivot point of the shutter with precision tweezers and a scalpel. It now works to 1/8000!

You've got to be joking !?
If you have to leave the camera in the cat's basket try leaving a lens on next time. Or better still get one of those toys shaped like a mouse and put that in instead.

Technical Support / Re: failing shutter on 60D
« on: October 28, 2014, 05:53:08 AM »
It's trying to tell you it's time to buy a 7DII.....

Sounds like a shutter failure one way or another to me  :(

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