August 18, 2017, 04:41:13 PM

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61
If you've got dials and sliders, you can modify more than one parameter at a time, such as contrast and exposure or blacks and shadow that are not really independent. Much faster than going back and forth between sliders with your mouse.
LOL! Nice idea, but I'd like to see anyone perform this feat in a productive way.
62
Lenses / Re: Review: Canon EOS 6D Mark II by DPReview
« Last post by tomscott on Today at 07:33:53 AM »
This thread is frankly a snore fest.
63
Animal Kingdom / Re: Your best animal shots!
« Last post by Nat_WA on Today at 07:25:11 AM »
A somewhat older one, still with my 50D + 100-400 II
It was an overcast and slightly misty winter morning, little light so I had to use relatively slow shutter speed (with the 50D I do not want to exceed ISO800 for reasonable quality...) - but thanks to the excellent IS of the lens no motion blur.

Yes! yes, yes yes.
I love how you managed to stop the two dear overlapping (with those antlers, it wold have been too easy).


I know it was misty and that is part of the appeal, but I wonder what it would be like to use a small bit of dehaze or contrast on the nearer deer to make it stand out a bit more? But that is a minor point. Print on gloss paper, add a frame and voila

Thanks Mikehit, I'll try to follow your suggestion in my current workflow - at the time I was working with LR4, only dropped black level a bit to reduce the haze (no other dehaze in LR4 to my knowledge).

Actually, I did print it on 40x60cm glossy paper and framed it ;) It was even exhibited on our yearly photo-group exhibition and won the visitors preference award  ;D.
64
Animal Kingdom / Re: Your best animal shots!
« Last post by Mikehit on Today at 07:14:02 AM »
A somewhat older one, still with my 50D + 100-400 II
It was an overcast and slightly misty winter morning, little light so I had to use relatively slow shutter speed (with the 50D I do not want to exceed ISO800 for reasonable quality...) - but thanks to the excellent IS of the lens no motion blur.

Yes! yes, yes yes.
I love how you managed to stop the two dear overlapping (with those antlers, it wold have been too easy).


I know it was misty and that is part of the appeal, but I wonder what it would be like to use a small bit of dehaze or contrast on the nearer deer to make it stand out a bit more? But that is a minor point. Print on gloss paper, add a frame and voila
65
Animal Kingdom / Re: Your best animal shots!
« Last post by Nat_WA on Today at 07:02:04 AM »
A somewhat older one, still with my 50D + 100-400 II
It was an overcast and slightly misty winter morning, little light so I had to use relatively slow shutter speed (with the 50D I do not want to exceed ISO800 for reasonable quality...) - but thanks to the excellent IS of the lens no motion blur.
66
Lenses / Re: Review: Canon EOS 6D Mark II by DPReview
« Last post by BillB on Today at 06:55:15 AM »
LIGHTING is impractical for the outdoor world.

And this hardly makes your case any better.

you must be thinkin' small or you have a huge lighting budget :)

let's see you light the shadow-side of a mountain range so it looks natural across 3 miles of view

Wait for the right light (or make it)? :o

well, "making it" would likely require an airburst from a small nuke with a suitably robust set of barn doors. LOL
sadly, no "modelling-mode" for setting up.

Quote
If you can't, you don't get the same IQ. There are a series of techniques available but a 1/2 stop (or even more) base DR difference hardly saves the day. ..or just show us that we are wrong and back up your words with images!

HAHA!  Tough talk from the guy with a 5d4.  ;)
Yes, there's not a big difference between that camera and the ABCs I use for landscape but what about your lesser brethren shooting things like 5d2/3 or 6d2/3 or older crop?...
There are definite advantages to having every bit of noise-free DR possible in tough situations.  more is always better here. :)

For quite a while now, you have been bashing the Canon 5D2, 5D3 and 6D, and ridiculing the people who continue to use them.  During this period, you have spent a fair amount of money buying new cameras, and recently got the new MFT Olympus, which you say has IQ almost as good as, or perhaps comparable to, the Canon's you have continually bashed.  At the same time, Canon buyers that you ridicule, without needing  to spend any money on new cameras, have continued to use the cameras that you bash, cameras with IQ comparable to, or perhaps slightly better than your new Olympus MFT.  If the IQ is acceptable when you shoot with your Olympus, why wasn't it acceptable when they shot with their Canons?

You say that you are enjoying your photographic journey, and I wish you well in that journey.  I also hope that you can see the humor in the current situation.  All of us camera geeks are at least a little ridiculous.

67

Thanks for replying Tom. The reason I asked about the slow shutter speeds is that I, being an old man, can no longer hold the camera steady at those low speeds. About the best speed handheld I can do without IS is around 1/125 to 1/250. I am impressed!
I have only taken landscapes with my 24-70 and I am trying to find a model to try the camera out with people, therefore no closeups as you have taken.
Anyway, great pictures and thank you again for sharing them with us.

Brian

PS Yes I have noticed that the camera does a great job of brightening up dark scenes and I would not hesitate to take indoor shots without a flash.

I see! TBH unless its the version II it might be worth having a play with the 24-105 MKI and MKII or the 24-70 F4 for landscape work with them being a lighter more compact and most importantly having IS. One of the reasons I haven't bought the MKII version of the 24-70 my copy is very sharp seems to be one of the better and  last off the line. Although the MKII is sharper and lighter I dont see the benefit without IS especially for the cost again double. Really hoping they will bring an IS varient out as it would help.

Of corse even the most experienced gets a little anxious when photographing these situations and your heart is going etc it certainly would help when working quickly to steady the camera. Its also difficult moving between my lenses with and without IS as you can get a way with a lot more with an IS lens and when working quickly its another thing to think about.

People can be more difficult to shoot than first thought. An example I like to tell people is like photographing sheep. You would think they are easy to photograph because they are slow etc but the way they gring the grass in their teeth basically vibrates the whole head so you have to shoot at 1/640+ to get the head sharp. People although they seem to be still they are always moving - a blink, smile, shift of the eye or even a heartbeat can blur an image. In fact the first image she blinked and the lashes are not tack but the rest of that area is.

I shoot a lot of motorsport too and getting decent pans at 1/15th and 1/30th takes a lot of practice and is much harder with a FF sensor than it is with crop. I think ive honed some skill from there. Like you say I would much prefer to be up in that high range as you get much more keepers and dont have to worry all day that the images are critically sharp. Again depends on situation a lot of these wedding venues are very dark and adding flash without multiple large difusers can add strange lighting artifacts in the background and I like to work quickly without big set ups like that. The 6DMKII handled it extremely well. Its by no means perfect and the MKIV will give you better results but for nearly 50% less it offers a hell of a lot for the money, probably far more than I need except for those 1-2% of situations.
 
68
EOS-M / Re: L-plate for the Canon M3 found
« Last post by VooDooZG on Today at 05:46:19 AM »
The L plate I have for my M3 does not fit my M5 (I have the M3 one from Gumptrade, which I was very satisfied with).  I was unable to find a cheapy L plate for the M5 (from Gumptrade or anywhere else) so I bit the bullet and bought the L plate for the M5 from Really Right Stuff.  Bonus:  Really Right Stuff now is integrating a pin type connector into their new L plates.  Great for attaching, for example, a Black Rapid strap.

Do you maybe have link for that L-bracket for M5 ? having hard time to find some good grip or plate :(

thx
69
Talys,

let me share some experience with you:

My best and strongest tripod is Vanguard ABEO Plus 363CB:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/896075-REG/Vanguard_abeo_plus_363cb_ABEO_363CB_3_Sec.html

3 sections, 16kg load capacity (according to Vanguard) , legs are 36mm thick.
My guess is that your tripod is ABEO Plus 364CB - 4 section version, same loading capacity of 16kg :)

I use it in studio and if I need to support my heaviest lens (3.8kg).
Load capacity of this tripod is heavily underrated by the Manufacturer. with 36mm thick legs it will support 24kg, no worries at all. It extends up to 2m high. I can hang myself of this tripod, the thingy would not care a slightest bit. It is 80cm long collapsed and 3.5 - 4.0 kg heavy. Not a hike friendly, way too large.

the tripod I have recently ordered has not arrived yet, but I used my friends new Neewer 67" carbon for a load test. legs on that one is only 25mm thick. pretty normal for the CF tripod of claimed 15kg of MAXIMUM capacity.
Outcomes: it holds the weight of my 5d III, L-Bracket and Sigma 120-300 F2.8 Sports with hood (5kg all together approx.) and feels solid. now, sigma lens is quite long so lens shake is very noticeable. As I said - up to 7-8kg this new Neewer is good to go. not 15kg though, No.

on the other hand, the one that I have ordered for myself, comes with stronger legs - 28mm and much much stronger ball head. (45mm ball head) and is rated by manufacturer to support 20kg.

the reality is that all this knock off ballheads are rubbish. I bought the tripod for US$150.00 and am palnning to replace the supplied ball head with a good quality Sirui 20kg rated one.

oops, how about this one here?  :D

seems to be 4 section portable travel tripod and rated for 25lbs.:

https://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=20499.msg387490#msg387490

"... The Really Right Stuff TQC-14 is their 'travel tripod', the lightest and weakest one they make. It's rated for 25 lbs. That load capacity might, just might, be a bit conservative...."

(c) Neuro




Really, about 6-7KG is the maximum I would ever put on ANY 4 section travel tripod, and the vast majority will make you feel like it's not only unstable, but dangerous.  Most of these have spindly, thin, light legs, and putting any heavy lens on there will give it just too much flex.

Nice one :D  RRS has really nice tripods, no doubt about it. 

A couple of things, though:  It looks like Neuro only has it extended to 3 sections.  Now obviously it would handle 25lbs (which is a little under 10kg I think?)  fully extended.  I don't think the Neewer tripod will handle 50% more than the RRS :D

I have a Vanguard 4-section (the heavy one that they make) which I actually use as a 3-section with my Sigma 150-600 on the go without any problems.  It works for me because I'm not so tall anyways :D  And I use the large Manfrotto ball head that adds a lot of height, especially when you add in a lens ring mount too.  When it's extended to the 4th extension, I just don't feel good about stepping away from it.  Part of it may also be balance, because most of the travel tripods are lighter, and I'm afraid a small bump will cost me thousands of dollars.

Who knows, maybe it's just me!
70
6D Mark II Sample Images / Re: First 6DMKII photoshoot (WEDDING IMAGES P3)
« Last post by hbr on Today at 05:12:40 AM »
Thanks for sharing those photos with us, Tom. Great shots. Sorry you are having problems with your 24-70 f/2.8. Fortunately mine works perfectly. May have to do an AFMA? I am loving my 6D2 but still in the process of getting familiar with what it can do. I notice you were using very slow shutter speeds. Were you using a tripod?

Brian

Have you shot anything critical with it yet? Seemed fine in my test shots and then wasn't amazing at the wedding, just adequate. It seems sharp enough with still subjects just doesn't keep up with moving subjects in AI servo. I know the newer lenses MKII are a lot faster with the newer AF systems, my 70-200 was spot on.

No tripod just handheld.

I had the camera on auto ISO all day with it ensuring minimum shutter speed matched focal length. On the indoor shots on the stairs I was using a 16-35mm hence the slow shutter speed which was an error on my part and should have been higher but thankfully I have a steady hand and the subjects were static. They all came out really well, helps with it being a wide angle but have now compensated the auto ISO an extra stop so 24 for example would shoot minimum 1/60th. It did mean the ISO was nice and low it could have really got carried away in there and although I dont mind 3200-12800 for those types of images, sort of showcase shots it wouldnt have been suitable.

Its also a lot darker in there than the images make it look, it was a very overcast and stormy day with very little light coming through the clouds. There was a large window above the stairs which is where the light came from to illuminate the scene. I also only had 10 minutes with them before they had to be announced so all was go!

For inside the marquay I was using flash so the slow shutter speed wasn't really an issue as the flash would freeze the action.

Anyway in hindsight you are correct should have been shooting higher and usually would but thought I would see how I got on and will make changes in the future.

It is nice that its one less thing to think about, although it needs to work properly. I think it would be a lot better if you could set max and min shutter speeds per lens rather than per focal length as it works great if your subject is still or if your lens has IS.

The auto ISO can go crazy too I have it set up to 25,600 and in a church 24mm at 2.8 at 1/60th could easily hit 4000/6400 so worth keeping an eye on. I didnt find the ISO to be an issue at all very pleased with all the images in terms of IQ and noise. Wouldn't have issue printing large.

Hope that answers your question.

Thanks for replying Tom. The reason I asked about the slow shutter speeds is that I, being an old man, can no longer hold the camera steady at those low speeds. About the best speed handheld I can do without IS is around 1/125 to 1/250. I am impressed!
I have only taken landscapes with my 24-70 and I am trying to find a model to try the camera out with people, therefore no closeups as you have taken.
Anyway, great pictures and thank you again for sharing them with us.

Brian

PS Yes I have noticed that the camera does a great job of brightening up dark scenes and I would not hesitate to take indoor shots without a flash.
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