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Shooting a moonrise - Need advice

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Promature:
I figured I'd take the opportunity on night shift to get a few shots of a moonrise along the beach.  Does anyone have any advice on when the best lighting would be for reflections on the ocean (i.e., how long after the offical moonrise)?  Any other advice that you could offer too would be appreciated (besides bringing a tripod) such as color temperature settings, wide or narrow aperature, etc.  I know it's going to be a waining crescent, so light is going to be minimal.  Camera and lenses are limited to what is listed below (no high ISOs for me).

Hector1970:
Hi ,
I'm not an expert on shooting the moon.
It's a relatively small object compared to the width of the sky (although it's the largest object in the sky).
They recommend shooting at around F11.
If possible set the ISO to 100.
Shutter speed would want to be at least 1/125 ~  1/1250 as the moon is a moving object
Manual would be the way to go.
A steady tripod and a remote if you have it or the timer on your camera to steady the camera.
If you have mirror lockup, use this to stop and mirror slap shake.
You'd have to use your longest lens. 70-200mm at 200mm the moon wouldn't be very big.
You could bracket shots as well to get the best exposure +2,+1, -1,-2.

I tend to focus manually with Liveview (if your camera has it).

Any best of luck with it. I'm not an expert but I have tried.
This link might give better advice http://photographylife.com/how-to-photograph-moon
This is a recent moon shot I did. It's not spectacularily sharp (I didn't do everything I suggest above - I was messing with an extender to see how good it was)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fergalocallaghan/8162548104/#in/photostream

Promature:

--- Quote from: Hector1970 on November 09, 2012, 03:33:08 AM ---They recommend shooting at around F11.
If possible set the ISO to 100.
Shutter speed would want to be at least 1/125 ~  1/1250 as the moon is a moving object

--- End quote ---

LOL, seriously?  I thought you were joking until I read the article, and then I realized you weren't kidding.  I'm going to be shooting near some rocks, so I am hoping to get a little flash to still a wave crash and then a longer shutter speed to get the moon and the ocean reflection.  I'll have to try and experiment.

SwissBear:
It vatly depends on wether you want to photograph the moon for "scientific" reasons, menaing that you can make out details in it, or it is only an "artistic" source of light.

For the latter: on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value#Tabulated_exposure_values you find a table with approximative values to start experimenting. (these values are for the landscape, not the moon, so the moon will be totally overexposed)

For rocks, wave-crashes and so on, id go bulb (experiment on aperture) and light the scene with the flash (handheld) starting the experiment with half power or less. it's possible to walk around and iluminate a rock from several sides ;)

Shoot in RAW, as white balance is rather impossible set on field.


Hillsilly:
You'll get the best outcome when the moon is very low.  Typically within an hour or so of moon rise.  If you're there when the moon starts rising, you can't go wrong.  One standard classic shot has the moon half risen on the horizon.

This is a useful program for working out where the moon will appear...

http://photoephemeris.com/moonrise-photography-the-moon-in-the-landscape

Google Sky is also very useful, too.  Along with another app - Sundroid.

Its good that you're taking the flash.  As mentioned, the moon is surprisingly bright.  The shutter / aperture combination that you'll need to keep detail in the moon won't give you enough exposure for rocks and waves and well lit reflections.  But if you bracket a few exposures, then you can always manipulate the images later.

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