Canon Stealth Adds RF24-105mm F4 L IS USM Firmware 2.0.7

Weirdly enough. I don’t use the control ring at all. Not sure if it is because I had a lot of EF lenses to begin with or that the 3 wheels on the R5 already do what I need or that I can't access the ring underwater.
I imagine shooting underwater is a whole different thing, including the setup. I've never experienced it so far, but it sure would be a fun thing to try it one time.
 
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The 70-200 4L is an exception to that. Great performance throughout the range.
The 70-200mm F4 is a stunning lens! Sharp throughout the range, the nicest bokeh of any F4 zooms (probably due to the focal length), great handling and a near perfect balance of size and weight. Plus, imho the control ring is "in the right place" at the end of the lens. I don´t like where the control ring is placed with 70-200mm F2.8 (collapsible) lens. It makes reaching for it kind of awkward imo.

Especially between 70-105mm it performs better than the 24-105mm although I have the feeling the 70-200mm excels at the long end. I agree that the 24-105mm is fairly strong at the wide end.
 
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Indeed, this zoom has quickly become my second most used lens, after the 15-35 f/2,8.
By the way, my 24-105 f/2,8 had mushy corners at 24mm, and was a bit on the soft side at 105mm. Q.C. had seemingly failed...
Hehe, I have a familiar case: my two most used lenses are the RF 14-35mm F4 L and the 70-200mm F4. It is also a neat way to avoid the 24-105mm :) Currently, I´m taking a lot of family pics so I use the 50mm F1.4 and 85mm F2 a lot.
 
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Personally, I use the control ring for ISO.

I rarely need to change aperture, so having access to ISO with my left hand means I can change it without releasing the back focus and shutter buttons. That way, I can simultaneously perform autofocus, adjust exposure and keep shooting without changing shutter speed.

Shutter speed with my right index finger, autofocus with my right thumb, aperture is mostly a constant, and ISO with left thumb, pinky or index finger, depending on the lens.
 
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Hehe, I have a familiar case: my two most used lenses are the RF 14-35mm F4 L and the 70-200mm F4. It is also a neat way to avoid the 24-105mm :) Currently, I´m taking a lot of family pics so I use the 50mm F1.4 and 85mm F2 a lot.
The only lens I miss is a 50mm macro, but I don't believe it will ever come from Canon. The Zeiss I currently use disappoints at infinity, and the RF 50mm 1,4 or 1,2 don't focus close enough. The gap between 35mm and 70mm is a bit too wide...
 
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What function did you assign to the control ring?
As another Control Ring user, I wanted to chime in: I set it to Exposure Compensation, as usually I have auto ISO (still linked to back panel dial - aka Quick Control Dial 1 - if direct control is needed) it helps in making fast exposure corrections as a proper 4th dial.

With flash photography, I set it to Flash Exposure Compensation.

In both configurations, it only registers inputs while the shutter button is half pressed, to prevent unwanted changes.
 
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I imagine shooting underwater is a whole different thing, including the setup. I've never experienced it so far, but it sure would be a fun thing to try it one time.
Lensrentals offer some underwater housings via https://www.lensrentals.com/catalog_search?q=ikelite for rent but otherwise you need to buy it outright. Minimum you need for a DLSR/MILC is the body housing, the port extensions and zoom gear (for the zoom lens you want to use) and either a dome or flat port (macro) at the end.

For compact/fixed lens bodies then there are cheaper options as long as you are happy with the image quality/AF etc. I had different compacts for probably a decade until it got to the point that a new compact body plus housing was about the same cost as a housing for my main camera.

Pros/Cons: Much more expensive/larger/heavier housings needed for DLSR/MILC but can mix/match with different lenses.
Plus other bits like: vacuum pumps, trim weight/float system, handles/tray/arms, strobes, sync cords.

Hard to sell second hand if you upgrade although certain bits can be upgraded depending on the OEM placement of buttons and physical dimensions. Ikelite have a different "back" for the R5ii vs R5 housing for USD850 although the power switch needs to be on before closing it. A new housing is USD2000.
Ikelite are at the cheaper end of the spectrum. Aluminium housings start at about double the Ikelite cost and a Nauticam setup for a R5ii +RF14-35mm would be about USD10k (plus the camera/lens :) )
Nauticam do have a zoom gear that can use the control ring for the EF-R adapter but otherwise not.
 
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Lensrentals offer some underwater housings via https://www.lensrentals.com/catalog_search?q=ikelite for rent but otherwise you need to buy it outright. Minimum you need for a DLSR/MILC is the body housing, the port extensions and zoom gear (for the zoom lens you want to use) and either a dome or flat port (macro) at the end.

For compact/fixed lens bodies then there are cheaper options as long as you are happy with the image quality/AF etc. I had different compacts for probably a decade until it got to the point that a new compact body plus housing was about the same cost as a housing for my main camera.

Pros/Cons: Much more expensive/larger/heavier housings needed for DLSR/MILC but can mix/match with different lenses.
Plus other bits like: vacuum pumps, trim weight/float system, handles/tray/arms, strobes, sync cords.

Hard to sell second hand if you upgrade although certain bits can be upgraded depending on the OEM placement of buttons and physical dimensions. Ikelite have a different "back" for the R5ii vs R5 housing for USD850 although the power switch needs to be on before closing it. A new housing is USD2000.
Ikelite are at the cheaper end of the spectrum. Aluminium housings start at about double the Ikelite cost and a Nauticam setup for a R5ii +RF14-35mm would be about USD10k (plus the camera/lens :) )
Nauticam do have a zoom gear that can use the control ring for the EF-R adapter but otherwise not.
I sometimes wonder why the housings are more expensive than the camera itself
 
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As another Control Ring user, I wanted to chime in: I set it to Exposure Compensation, as usually I have auto ISO (still linked to back panel dial - aka Quick Control Dial 1 - if direct control is needed) it helps in making fast exposure corrections as a proper 4th dial.

With flash photography, I set it to Flash Exposure Compensation.

In both configurations, it only registers inputs while the shutter button is half pressed, to prevent unwanted changes.
I also set it to Exposure Compensation. It helps shooting in M mode and Auto ISO
 
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Wow - just saw this. It fixes one of my biggest gripes of the RF system, and the lack of manual full time override focusing has been an absolute show stopper in terms of my spending money on RF lenses (fun to play with, but half useless to me without the functionality). I hope this gets rolled out to all RF lenses. Shame that power is still needed, but this is a good step in the right direction. Bravo!
 
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