1st time printing (for sale): Matting? Paper? Print size? Border? All noob questions......

cayenne

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Mar 28, 2012
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If you just need a reliable solution without much hassle, why not? Canon sells a lot of overpriced stuff... not only inks :)

If you can find another reliable supplier delivering constant ink quality, why not? Precision Colors, which Cayenne linked, is transparent enough to tell you its red ink for the Pixma 10 can't match Canon one - others may not be.

With different inks you may need to create specific ICC profiles for your preferred papers, for best result - but you prefer to make a lot of test prints, I know.

While the worst scenario is when inks specs are not constant - you may have to profile each batch.

Do you put cheap CF cards in your cameras?

Good Points all.

Well, I'll likely at least for the first replacement, do Canon inks. If nothing else, this cheap printer (dang, need to mail in the rebate before I forget!!)....is something I got to experiment with, so I figure I'll try to do the hack the cartridges, refill and reflash the chip thing to see how it works and how well it works.

I would definitely likely be doing new profiles on refill ink solutions....

Anyway, something fun to play with!!


Thanks again for ALL the great input here!!

Lots to work from. I got it finally set up, was fairly painless, wireless...so, will try test printing with papers that came with it this week/weekend.

cayenne
 
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cayenne

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Mar 28, 2012
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<snip>

What could be useful is a good paper trimmer (I prefer a rotary one) - especially for larger paper sizes when using an hand cutter becomes less comfortable and precise - so you can get the exact size you need, even if the original paper size is different, unluckily many paper sizes follow the usual printer/office sizes (i.e. Letter, A4, etc.) instead of more photographic size, so you may need to trim them.

<snip>

Can ya'll recommend good options for paper trimmers?

I'm still trying to digest all this great info.....but had a question about this.

Thank you,

cayenne
 
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Don Haines

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Jun 4, 2012
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Can ya'll recommend good options for paper trimmers?

I'm still trying to digest all this great info.....but had a question about this.

Thank you,

cayenne
I have never liked rotary cutters for cutting bevels. You can do it, but you often need an exact knife to finish off the corners....

Ages ago, (sometime in the 70’s) I got one where the cutter fits into a groove of the ruler, one cutter for vertical, another for bevel... and it saw lots of use until i used the last spare blade, and it is so obsolete I can’t get more. I’m in the market for a new one, so I am very interested to see where this thread leads.

BTW, the old one was quite similar to this one
https://www.adorama.com/lg4401.html

I found that the longer ruler was well worth it
 
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LDS

Sep 14, 2012
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have never liked rotary cutters for cutting bevels. You can do it, but you often need an exact knife to finish off the corners....

You're right. Rotary cutters are OK to cut photos and the mat you can (and should) put behind them in a frame - to cut a passepartout there are specific cutters, if you don't want or can't use premade ones. Logan products looks good, there are some made exactly to create beveled frames, uisng guides to help - like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Logan-Graphics-Compact-Versatile-Portable/dp/B004J1B0BO
 
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ethanz

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Valvebounce

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Hi Kelly.
I have never printed for sale, I rarely print and when I do it is just standard sized prints from my little HP printer for family. My first thought was a digital signature, if your going to sign them why not use the same ink as the photo?
Just thought, are you signing all of your shots, or just if someone asks you to sign just in case you become famous? ;)

Cheers, Graham.
 
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LDS

Sep 14, 2012
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Ok, one more question. What do you sign your prints with?
Does it matter?

If you're going to sign your prints, for whatever reason, you should use something that won't create issues later. If you went a long way to use archival-rated papers, inks, mat, etc., you can go the last leg, and get a specific pen as well. Pencils usually don't work on the coated side of glossy and lustre paper. There are pens that uses the same kind of inks that are used by printers, so they work. Or sign on the back.

Today for photos a signature is more an artist's "final touch" for fine arts prints than a proof of origin, mostly a proof an artist approved the print as his/her own (and for ego reasons, of course :D). There are specific holographic stickers and certificates that could be a better choice for "proof of origin" and limited editions - but their use depends on the worth of the prints.

Prints are usually signed in the blank space below the print, or on the back, so it could be hidden when framed. Use a signature you use only for the prints, usually not the one you use on any legal document.
 
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cayenne

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Mar 28, 2012
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Hi All,

First let me THANK all of ya'll who have been so helpful on this thread and so informative.

I have found out about paper, and am now enjoying the results currently for my latest project on RedRiver Palo Duro Etching paper, looks really great with the B&W's I'm doing.

I bought mats and plastic bags, and tape...and will tomorrow start trying to mount prints in the pre-cut mats.

I'm doing mostly 8.5x11 prints, and then matting them. I may do a few 13x19 prints and mat them too.

I have a friend that has a table at a show this weekend. I'm going to set up there with them, and see if I can sell some of my prints.

Being this is my first time EVER to try to sell some of my art, can someone give me some ball park pricing that would be reasonable for my prints?

Again, thank you in advance for all of the great info and support here!!!

Cayenne
 
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