How to shoot jewellery and NOT get reflections of the camera

Status
Not open for further replies.
May 1, 2013
114
0
5,981
I'm taking shots of jewellery and getting the camera as a reflections on the rings

What can I do about this?

I've tried putting a white paper with a hole around the camera
This is better - but still getting a black dot!

Any advice would be great

Thanks


Omar
 
The color of the paper will depend on the kind of reflection you want on the jewerly, usually one look for reflections, but I have never encountered yet a situation where the reflection of the camera is that visible, specially because usually the light is controlled in a way that not a lot of light is spilled out of the area of the piece to photograph.

You can find great advise in this website : http://www.photigy.com/
 
Upvote 0
ksagomonyants said:
Don Haines said:
polarizing filter and move the lights around.....

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought that polarizing filter does not help with the reflection from metal surfaces.

I could kill some highlights, but is not going to hide the camera, and you want highlights in jewelry. My guess too much light is getting spilled onto the camera body. I have shot pieces at a distance of 3 inches probably, and I don't see my camera unless shooting a mirror in the right angle to see the camera.
 
Upvote 0
thanks for some great replies

@victorwol: photigy.com is just awesome!
i'm going to learn a lot from there

@LewisShermer: i've got a canon 60d and a canon 100mm IS F2.8 macro lens
is there anywhere i can see ur pics? would love to see

ok... let me show u the problems
see the 2 pics below. the first one isn't that bad i suppose - the black bit is the camera
the second one though, the black line going all around the ring is the damn camera

P9WJir9.jpg


vXhwxGw.jpg
 
Upvote 0
100mm macro is the best lens I've ever used for this type of work. all items will be big and you'll be far enough away from them to not be reflected. always have your lights infront or level with the camera. put white card behind and in-front to reflect nice bits. you shouldn't have a problem. if you're using one of those shitty tents or a light box you'll have no end of issues. if you're not using soft boxes and just bare flash you'll never get good results. i recommend bowens...

people often ask me what I'd suggest for getting their own good shots: about an £8000 budget to start with, good knowledge of lighting and a splash of creativity.

when they say "oh, we need it for cheap..." accept that you'll have "rubbish" shots... unless you have a ridiculous amount of lighting knowledge and an infinite amount of creativity with it...

good job I'm spot on in both scenarios ;)
 
Upvote 0
Off the wall thought....what if you set up your jewlery the way you want it with lighting, etc....then place a mirror in the right place and take a picture of the ring in the mirror? You would then be taking a picture of the opposite side of the ring, and shouldn't get the reflection from the camera.

Also, you could place the camera at an oblique angle, so its refelction was at least mostly bouncing away from the lens.

I see you posted as I was typing....you've got some pretty sharp highlights from your light source there. They also look underexposed. Try absolutely blasting your flash at that thing, and fire it through a diffuser like a soft box that is much larger than your subject, or bounce it off a piece of foam board. The idea is to make the powerful light come at the subject from every angle. You may then be able to overpower the reflection of your camera.



-Brian
 
Upvote 0
That is too big to be the camera. If you don't want to have any black anywhere. You need to have either enough white cards to reflect, or shoot inside a shooting cone. Anyway, some black is also good because it add contrast to something otherwise would be flat. If you believe is the camera, just put a little red piece of cardboard on the side of the lense and look if you see it. My guess it is will be just a red point because of the curvature of the object. I usually use a huge white card with a little hole for the lens. That hole should not be more than a tiny dot on the jewelry.
 
Upvote 0
"the second one though, the black line going all around the ring is the damn camera"

It can't be, it is a reflection of the camera and the scene around it, the edge of the table and studio etc, the angle of reflection can only equal the angle of incidence, the camera would need to be huge to take up that much "horizon". You can't have used a hole in white paper for that shot, if you had, as you have said, you can only get a dot, which is comparatively easy to remove in post.
 
Upvote 0
@LewisShermer: erm... yes... it's a light box - costs a lot of money as well!
oooh... OMG, those pics are just amazing
+ thanks for the advice - golden nuggets of help there

privatebydesign said:
You can't have used a hole in white paper for that shot, if you had, as you have said, you can only get a dot, which is comparatively easy to remove in post.
no... i was misleading in what i said
i did use a paper with a hole in for other shots - but not the ones i showed off

@bbasiaga: mirror is an interesting idea - just not sure if it will work!?

@victorwol: great comments... will follow the advice
 
Upvote 0
There was some great advice on this topic in the book "Lighting for Digital Photography: From Snapshots to Great Shots" by Syl Arena. He says when shooting highly reflective subjects like glass, jewelry, etc. you should "light what the objects sees" rather than the object itself. For example point your light/flash at a reflector next to, above or behind your subject and let the reflected light hit the jewelry. Combined with some fill this has worked great for me shooting metallic stuff.

Great book for getting started with multi-flash still life and portrait work. Highly recommended. Beats the pants off a $200 class I took at my university.
 
Upvote 0
Status
Not open for further replies.