Sync issues w/ studio light, wireless triggers, and 70D. Please Help!

[jus2sho]

Hi,
I'm new to using a studio light and wireless triggers. I just bought a Godox 300SDI studio light and Neewer wireless triggers. I currently have a receiver connected to the 300SDI and another connected to the 70D. The receiver on the 70D is connected via PC Sync cable. As soon as I connect the PC Sync cable to the remote plug on the 70D, the camera is constantly adjusting its focus. Is this normal? When I use the Neewer wireless trigger, both the camera and the studio light flashes. Normally after each shot, without the PC Sync cable connected to the remote port on the 70D, I'm able to see a 2 sec. preview of the shot. However, with the cable connected, I no longer get the preview. Is that normal? With these issues aside, reviewing the shot taken, no matter what intensity I set the studio light to, the image stays the same as if there were no flash at all. What am I doing wrong!? Thanks for any help.

 

[FEBS]

Hi,
I'm new to using a studio light and wireless triggers. I just bought a Godox 300SDI studio light and Neewer wireless triggers. I currently have a receiver connected to the 300SDI and another connected to the 70D. The receiver on the 70D is connected via PC Sync cable. As soon as I connect the PC Sync cable to the remote plug on the 70D, the camera is constantly adjusting its focus. Is this normal? When I use the Neewer wireless trigger, both the camera and the studio light flashes. Normally after each shot, without the PC Sync cable connected to the remote port on the 70D, I'm able to see a 2 sec. preview of the shot. However, with the cable connected, I no longer get the preview. Is that normal? With these issues aside, reviewing the shot taken, no matter what intensity I set the studio light to, the image stays the same as if there were no flash at all. What am I doing wrong!? Thanks for any help.

Sorry to say so, but your trigger is using a very old technology, being the 433Mhz band. Newer triggers all use the 2.4Ghz band. But that does not explain your problems. Did you follow the setup instruction exactly as mentioned below?
•Make sure the channel selector of both transmitter and receiver at same position
•Insert the receiver's trigger output plug into your flash's jack
•Press the test button on your transmitter. The studio light should now flash
•Insert the transmitter's hot shoe socket into your camera's hot shoe jack
(if your camera does not have a hot shoe use a PC sync cord and insert into the socket)
•You should now be ready to start shooting
(you can use the 3.5mm sync cable for cameras without hotshoe or hotshoe is engaged).

The transmitter, so not the receiver as you mentioned, placed on a 70D, can be fitted on the hotshoe. So you don't need to insert any pc cord from camera to transmitter in that case. Also be aware that the sync speed of your 70D is higher (1/250) the max speed of your trigger (1/200).

 

[jus2sho]

Thank you for your reply. I followed the instructions exactly as stated. If I mount the transmitter onto the hot shoe (without PC Sync cable) and shoot like I normally would, the strobe is in sync like it should be. However, when I mount a receiver onto the hot shoe and connect it to the camera via a PC Sync cable, the strobe and camera are still controlled using the transmitter as a wireless remote. The problem in this situation is that the strobe is out of sync. In either case, my sync speed is less than 200, 100 ISO , 1.8 aperture. I'm still at a loss...

 

[FEBS]

Thank you for your reply. I followed the instructions exactly as stated. If I mount the transmitter onto the hot shoe (without PC Sync cable) and shoot like I normally would, the strobe is in sync like it should be. However, when I mount a receiver onto the hot shoe and connect it to the camera via a PC Sync cable, the strobe and camera are still controlled using the transmitter as a wireless remote. The problem in this situation is that the strobe is out of sync. In either case, my sync speed is less than 200, 100 ISO , 1.8 aperture. I'm still at a loss...

Sorry but I don't get it. Why would you install a receiver on the hotshoe of your camera? If you want to use it as a remote control, then your receiver should not be connected to the pc sync as this is an output on your camera, not an input. You should connect it to the remote control input of your camera (3.5mm jack ).

 

[Valvebounce]

Hi jus2sho.
If I understand, you are triggering a strobe from one reciever and the camera from another, both actuated by a remote trigger, I would think that what you are experiencing is the different reaction times, for the 70D 70ms shutter lag prefocused, probably longer if it focuses on the shutter button press, strobes have to react very fast to the trigger from the camera so it could be that by triggering it from the remote that is also starting the camera shutter it is beating the shutter?
Also you say that you are triggering the camera through the PC sync cable, I tried a 20D and a 7D and couldn't get them to work that way, is there a trick to making that happen, or do you mean a remote cable from the sync port (or remote port) on the reciever?

Cheers, Graham.

Thank you for your reply. I followed the instructions exactly as stated. If I mount the transmitter onto the hot shoe (without PC Sync cable) and shoot like I normally would, the strobe is in sync like it should be. However, when I mount a receiver onto the hot shoe and connect it to the camera via a PC Sync cable, the strobe and camera are still controlled using the transmitter as a wireless remote. The problem in this situation is that the strobe is out of sync. In either case, my sync speed is less than 200, 100 ISO , 1.8 aperture. I'm still at a loss...

 

[FEBS]

Ok, I see the reaction of Valvebounce, and now I can imagine, why you would connect the second receiver to the camera. What I would do then is keeping the transmitter of set A in my hand, The receiver of set A connected by a jack cable to the remote control input of your camera (so the receiver of set A definitely not in the hotshoe). The transmitter of set B in the hotshoe of your camera. The receiver of set B connected to the strobe. And set A and B should be placed on different channels. This setup will avoid any lag between the strobe and camera.