17-40 vs 16-35, which one got the mojo ?

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Feb 22, 2012
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Yep, I know there’s been lots of post on these two. Yet, since there’s not much new equipment announcements to make us quarrel lately, thanks to the community to kindly share the experience.

I still have the 10-22 to use on 60D. It’s sharp, yes. And I know lots of people swear by it. Personal opinion here, I find the pictures to be dull somehow, lacking depth or texture. So, imo and in short, 10-22 is certainly very capable but has no mojo !

For me, lenses like 35L or 85/II have mojo. Lot of it. Wow effet. Beyond words. With these two guys, I sometimes happen, with all settings to zero, to just convert to jpeg without any adjustment. In prints, the oomph effect is even more obvious than with pictures viewed on comp screens (downsized to 2 MB isn’t it).

Now, tried to love it but I’m going to sell the 10-22. So the question is, for 5D3, 17-40 or 16-35 ? Been reading every possible review, understand the pros and cons of each but I’m still wondering which one has the mojo – if one has any. It’s not for the 600 buck difference. It’s just no-nonsense decision. In reviews, it’s all about sharpness. There’s some on distortion and CA but that’s about it. Most conclude that if you don’t need the extra stop for low light, the extra mil and do mainly landscape at f8+, they both deliver the same result. I can read charts and can conclude that by myself, thank you. No word on the wow effect. No word on the lens mojo ! And you never know by how much, pictures seen on the net have been touched- up or altered.

So, will someone having or having used both lenses kindly share the experience and give advice/opinion on this delicate mojo subject, with some pics if possible ? I’d be delighted to be enlighted.
 
If the 10-22 does not have mojo, then neither will the 16-35 or 17-40. I find the 16-35 to be similar to the 10-22. If mojo is associated with subject isolation, then you might want to look at the 24L II instead. It's wide enough for most applications and faster than the zooms you're considering, which will help with isolation.
 
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I think if your waiting for wow with a canon uw zoom and If the 10-22 wasn't doing it for you then I don't think the 17-40 or 16-35 will do it for you either. So if that's the case and you want/need a ff uw zoom save some cash and buy a 17-40.
 
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The 17-40 has no mojo. The 16-35? Well I hope it does because I'm buying one next week. As for the 10-22….it did have mojo for me with the T2i and 7D, in fact it was my favorite lens while using a crop, even more than my L lenses.
 
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If you want a lens for it's "mojo", then get a Zeiss 21/2.8 ZE. There's mucho mojo in that...haven't used the 16-35/2.8L II since, except when I need it wider than 21. You could always do the 15-18-21 ZE setup and get tons of mojo.

If you want manual mojo, got 17TS-E and 24 TS-E II.

Owned the 17-40/4L, 17-35/2.8L, 16-35/2.8L and now the 16-35/2.8L II. The most wow I've seen is from the new version II. However - my Hasselblad SWC/M 38 Biogon puts out more wow. And, of course the microcontrast and dimensionalism on the 21/2.8 ZE is a whole new world. The 17-35 had the least and the 17-40/4L was just plain boring. My 24 TS-E v1 was much better, even if wasn't as wide.
 
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The photographer is going to make 99% of the difference to the image, maybe more, so the remaining 1% is what you are dealing with, no matter what lens you buy.
I could never really warm up to the 17-40mmL even thouugh it was a fine lens and sharp. I recently bought a new 16-35mmL, but do not yet have enough experience with it to pass judgement. Overall, I just don't seem to like ultra wide. From what I've seen, the new Zeiss 15mm might change my opinion, but I can't afford it for the very few ultrawide images I take. I did buy a Rokinon 14mm and found it to be worse than a Coke bottle.
 
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Here's a flickr stream of my friend. http://www.flickr.com/photos/35788721@N03/

She primarily uses the 16-35LII so most photos are taken with that lens. She also hates photoshop or post processing so she uses a lot of filters to get the image right out of the camera. You decide for yourself, does it have the "mojo" you're looking for?

I just ordered that lens. It was supposed to be here last Friday but UPS made a wrong turn and tried to knock from the backdoor. Now, I'm spending my time on the forum instead of shooting outside (not because I'm sick)

edit: forgot the link
 
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I've found the 17-40 comparable with the 16-35 between apertures of f/8 - f/11. f/4 is a bit tricky though and best avoided unless left without an option.

I've would recommend that the OP should go through the image threads for both the lenses and (i) try to see the difference in IQ; and (ii) decide which lens has "mojo" that you are looking for.
 
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bdunbar79 said:
Shermanstank said:
the 17-40 f/4 is a tool. It takes great pictures. I love mine for sure. :)

Taken with a Canon EOS 1V-HS Fuji 400H



BROOKLYNBRIDGEPARK#14 by TheShermansTank, on Flickr

You're making me long for the film days again...

Oh wait! I still have my EOS-3! You're just the person to get me back out shooting film for fun again :).

Good to hear! It's not for everybody; I am the kind of guy who has the patience to wait and see some magic when I scan the negatives. =)
 
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J.R. said:
I've found the 17-40 comparable with the 16-35 between apertures of f/8 - f/11. f/4 is a bit tricky though and best avoided unless left without an option.

I've would recommend that the OP should go through the image threads for both the lenses and (i) try to see the difference in IQ; and (ii) decide which lens has "mojo" that you are looking for.

I think that sums it up - if you are shooting primarily landscapes with a tripod or are doing studio work between f/8 and f/11 it probably doesn't matter which lens you buy - you may as well choose the cheaper option which is the 17-40. If you need to shoot at f/4, the 16-35mm is probably better. And of course if you want the subject isolation you get with f/2.8 or you want to shoot action, the 16-35 is probably your choice.
 
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