5D3 Custom Settings

  • Thread starter Thread starter digiitch
  • Start date Start date
Status
Not open for further replies.
D

digiitch

Guest
I canceled my 4 week old Amazon order and pulled the trigger on Adorama and my new 5D3 shipped in less than a day! So, as I await its arrival, I wanted to see how other folks tend to configure a couple things. First, for custom shooting modes (C1-C3), how do you set yours up? I've been a 7D user and always struggled with how best to use these modes. Do you configure them once and use them that way forever (or a long time), or do you configure them differently every time you go to shoot? What do you find to be the most useful configurations?

Also, I'm considering disabling AF on a half-shutter press and switching to the back AF button, but wanted to hear from others who might have thoughts on that. What are the advantages/disadvantages of going that direction. I've only tried it a bit on my 7D, but not enough to get comfortable with it.

What other customization do you make to your controls, and how does it benefit your ability to get good shots? I want to get a setup that lets me concentrate more on the shot and less on the controls.

Thanks in advance for your input!

5DIII (soon!) | 7D | 35/1.4L | 10-22 | 17-40/4L (soon!) | 24-105/4L IS | 70-200/2.8L IS II | 50/1.4 | 85/1.8
 
I am a 7D user. AF on rear AF-button, AI-Servo-Mode, single AF-point, matrix metering, EC +2/3 EV, slow series drive speed are among my default settings in all modes.

the 3 presets are used as (starting point) for the following "special modes":

* C1 - "snapshot mode" ... that I switch to, when a person not familiar with my camera wants to take a shot ... = P-mode, Auto-ISO, low-series speed, one-shot AF, automatic AF point selection, jpg, AF on shutter button, custom functions mostly set to default

* C2 - "tripod mode" - Av f/4, single shot, one-shot AF, single AF point active, ISO100, LiveView active, mirror-lockup, self-timer/IR remote control with 2s delay, plus some more settings - eg. noise reduction on long-time exposures

* C3 - "action mode" - Tv 1/1000s, fast series, AI-Servo-mode, AF-point extension, ISO 400, and a few more settings e.g. flash sync on second curtain, etc.

in C2 and C3 I adjust parameters if/as required in situation, but do not overwrite register with changed values. That way I know exactly, what I get, when I turn the mode wheel to C1, C2, C3.

Advantages of AF on rear button - please use search, this has been discussed many times over, no point for me to repeat.
 
Upvote 0
I personally don't use them much, except to setup c3 as a "just take a shot as quickly as possible" ie. auto most things. It's meant to be in an emergency. They don't happen often though so as I say they rarely get used by me..
 
Upvote 0
AvTvM said:
I am a 7D user. AF on rear AF-button, AI-Servo-Mode, single AF-point, matrix metering, EC +2/3 EV, slow series drive speed are among my default settings in all modes.

the 3 presets are used as (starting point) for the following "special modes":

* C1 - "snapshot mode" ... that I switch to, when a person not familiar with my camera wants to take a shot ... = P-mode, Auto-ISO, low-series speed, one-shot AF, automatic AF point selection, jpg, AF on shutter button, custom functions mostly set to default

* C2 - "tripod mode" - Av f/4, single shot, one-shot AF, single AF point active, ISO100, LiveView active, mirror-lockup, self-timer/IR remote control with 2s delay, plus some more settings - eg. noise reduction on long-time exposures

* C3 - "action mode" - Tv 1/1000s, fast series, AI-Servo-mode, AF-point extension, ISO 400, and a few more settings e.g. flash sync on second curtain, etc.

in C2 and C3 I adjust parameters if/as required in situation, but do not overwrite register with changed values. That way I know exactly, what I get, when I turn the mode wheel to C1, C2, C3.

Advantages of AF on rear button - please use search, this has been discussed many times over, no point for me to repeat.

For action (C3), wouldn't it be better to set Auto ISO?
 
Upvote 0
Hesham said:
For action (C3), wouldn't it be better to set Auto ISO?

yes, that would also be possible, but normally I like to have more control over exposure parameters and use Auto-ISO rarely, since its implementation is rather limited on the 7D. I may switch to Auto-ISO if the light is constantly changing and to such an amount, that it does require changing ISO.

If in Mode "M" and Auto-ISO I could still use +/- exposure correction, I would probably set C3 to that setting. :-)
 
Upvote 0
digiitch said:
Also, I'm considering disabling AF on a half-shutter press and switching to the back AF button, but wanted to hear from others who might have thoughts on that. What are the advantages/disadvantages of going that direction. I've only tried it a bit on my 7D, but not enough to get comfortable with it.
I disable AF on the half-shutter press on all of my cameras - it's useful for keeping metering separate from AF - and being able to reshoot something you've already completed the focussing for. It is also useful if you use the centre AF-point focus and re-compose method for your photographs. But you don't really need to use that method so much with the 5D3 due to its glorious AF point selection abilities... :)
 
Upvote 0
I've been doing back button focussing for years and thoroughly recommend it. I can prefocus and then wait for the moment, or take extra shots with the same focus settings.

I'd never go back.
 
Upvote 0
Well, I'm going to try and make the switch to back-button AF with the 5D3 since I'll already be getting used to new changes. There are lots of good reasons to do it that way but I will have to re-program my hand.

By the way, I chose 7-10 day shipping from Adorama on Sunday night, but UPS says the camera will be delivered on Wednesday. Can't wait!
 
Upvote 0
I switched to af on focus only about a year ago and love it....ESP with af servo which I have my dof preview button mapped to activate for those quick shots you need to go off. Never used the button before now I find it very useful.

Turned off all noise reduction and set picture style to faithful since I shoot raw...helps the back LCD image look closer to what I see in LR.
 
Upvote 0
Isn't "AF on back button" precluding the use of registered AF points? I like those...

I found that while many people use the SET to change ISO and I love this too, sometimes I need the right thumb to review, magnify and toggle 5-10x in Lifeview while MF-ing with the left hand. If you change SET to Loupe in any of the Av Tv or M it stays like that for all of them, if you put this option on a C1-3 than you can still use it for ISO on Av, Tv, M and the rest.
Otherwise an action mode is always good - I use Tv 1/750-1000 with ISO-shift.
I like the snapshot-idea - will use it, thanks.

BTW, what do you use your M-fn button for? I can't find anything really useful except for RAW-L hold. Poor value for me. Hope for a firmware update with more options on the buttons. If this camera doesn't impress with DR (which doesn't bother me much) it should impress more with UI tricks... (film & stills)
 
Upvote 0
te4o said:
Isn't "AF on back button" precluding the use of registered AF points? I like those...

I found that while many people use the SET to change ISO and I love this too, sometimes I need the right thumb to review, magnify and toggle 5-10x in Lifeview while MF-ing with the left hand. If you change SET to Loupe in any of the Av Tv or M it stays like that for all of them, if you put this option on a C1-3 than you can still use it for ISO on Av, Tv, M and the rest.
Otherwise an action mode is always good - I use Tv 1/750-1000 with ISO-shift.
I like the snapshot-idea - will use it, thanks.

BTW, what do you use your M-fn button for? I can't find anything really useful except for RAW-L hold. Poor value for me. Hope for a firmware update with more options on the buttons. If this camera doesn't impress with DR (which doesn't bother me much) it should impress more with UI tricks... (film & stills)

I use the M-fn. to change AF-areas.
 
Upvote 0
I use the set button to change ISO - you hold down set and use the front dial to move ISO up and down. It means, in manual, you can see the meter and therefore see what's happening with your exposure.

It's a function I use a lot and something I've wanted for years!
 
Upvote 0
Status
Not open for further replies.