5ds/r not for me after reading this.
- Thread starter sanj
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Great point. The old rule-of-thumb of 1/f may be fading. The slowest shutter speed I use when hand holding is 1/2f and usually faster. The tiniest shake that I used to be able to get away with, is now more apparent, especially when crop zooming.
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my personal believes as a wildlife shooter is to use as fast a shutter speed as I can. it always meant more keepers !!neuroanatomist said:
most of my work has been with birds @ 840mm 600+1.4 I learned the hard way 1xfL wasn't working 4/5 times fL was more like it
shooting early and late it was always a fight between shutter speed / iso / F/stop
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neuroanatomist said:
+1
But I think most of you guys that are pointing out 1/2FL and 1/2.5L are missing the point.
1/FL might have worked up to 12MP, may be even 16MP cameras.
But once it started getting into the 20s... you guys already started adjusting for it with 1/2FL and 1/2.5FL
So what will 50MP need? 1/3FL to 1/5FL????
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mkabi said:
That's why we said these were the minimum (slowest) shutter speeds. I found that when I moved to the higher res cameras, I was often shooting at the 1/3f and faster depending on the subject. The hardest part was realizing that I needed the faster shutter speeds even when taking pictures of non-moving landscapes if I were handholding.
Of course, this is one of the many reasons why most of my stuff is taken off a tripod.
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Here is a question and answer related to this issue. The interview was on a Canon-Asia website and someone interviewed some of the folks who designed the cameras. They were talking about camera shake and how the design of the camera was considered in relation to this issue. They asked a question on how to figure out the get the shutter speed fast enough to avoid camera shake. Here is the question and answer:
"- Is there an easy-to-understand way to determine the shutter speed based on the focal length?
Urakami: This is my personal view, but a rule that would be rather useful is to increase the shutter speed by about one stop from “1/focal length”. That being said, it is still ideal to set the camera on a tripod, since it would not be possible to eliminate camera shake fully if you are taking a handheld shot."
That isn't too bad. I mean most of the time, as a portrait photographer, I will be using the 85 1.2 and the 200 f/2. I usually shoot the 200 at 1/400 anyway and that is a stop above focal length. I think it will be absolutely fine in 95% of situations.
"- Is there an easy-to-understand way to determine the shutter speed based on the focal length?
Urakami: This is my personal view, but a rule that would be rather useful is to increase the shutter speed by about one stop from “1/focal length”. That being said, it is still ideal to set the camera on a tripod, since it would not be possible to eliminate camera shake fully if you are taking a handheld shot."
That isn't too bad. I mean most of the time, as a portrait photographer, I will be using the 85 1.2 and the 200 f/2. I usually shoot the 200 at 1/400 anyway and that is a stop above focal length. I think it will be absolutely fine in 95% of situations.
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The high MP bodies will sell a lot of IS lenses.
The issue of blur across tiny pixels has been known for years, since the Nikon D800 became popular. You will not get worse images hasndholding the camera, but if you are wanting to get the ultimaste, a tripod is going to be needed.
Shooting at 1/2000 sec and a small aperture will require a high ISO, even in bright light, and in dimmer light, forget it.
The issue of blur across tiny pixels has been known for years, since the Nikon D800 became popular. You will not get worse images hasndholding the camera, but if you are wanting to get the ultimaste, a tripod is going to be needed.
Shooting at 1/2000 sec and a small aperture will require a high ISO, even in bright light, and in dimmer light, forget it.
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jaayres20 said:
Is the 56Dsr really the camera you would be looking at if you do portraits? I would not think any resolution advantage would outweigh the resolution disadvantages.
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As far as aperture goes I test each lens that I have throughout a fairly broad range of settings. I set up the camera and lens and focus precisely on a fairly detailed subject some distance away (usually having having printed text). Then I take the same shot several times in aperture priority mode only changing the f stop. Then I compare all the shots at 100% crop in Lightroom. There is definitely a sweetspot range in which the lens delivers the sharpest photos. I then shoot my real photos in aperture priority mode always keeping the lens in that range. This has worked well.
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AcutancePhotography said:
Sure I can't wait to use it for portraits. I have a 1DX for everything else. The 5DS and the 5DSr are studio and landscape cameras. Just because my portraits don't take place in a studio, the subjects will still be the same. Peter Hurly, a famous head shot photographer loves the new 5DS and plans to switch from his medium format cameras to Canon now. Why would resolution be a disadvantage for portraits?
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gary samples said:
Perhaps the person who made up the 1/f rule was not thinking about wildlife photography, which hardly existed in those days. Photography has changed enormously the last sixty years or so. Anyway, I would prefer to use a 5D4 with its extremely high ISO settings which would enable me to use fast shutter speeds above the hi-res 5Ds. I have no use for 2x3m blowups anyway. And I also do not want to lug a tripod anywhere I will go. Stll waiting for the 5D4. (5D3 was stolen.)
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