scottburgess said:
Hey Jrista, would you be consider buying a 7Dii for conversion as a full-time astrograph? What feature set would be ideal for that application--fewer or more Mp, sensor technology, add on features... ??
Well, that question is not really as simple as it might sound.

Astrophotography is a different beast.
In normal photography, there is pretty much NOTHING wrong with having more resolution...more resolution is pretty much always a good thing. While, in the context of cropping, pixel size can affect noise levels, sensor size and quantum efficiency are generally the primary determining factors of image noise...so the general rule of thumb should pretty much always be: Get as much resolution as you can.
When it comes to other features...like the AF system, metering, frame rate, etc. (all of which I generally consider AT LEAST as important as sensor IQ, if not more important depending on your style and type of photography), you should generally go for the best you can that meets your needs. The 7D II is an action photography camera, and while sensor IQ is important, it's really the frame rate and AF system that are paramount.
When it comes to astrophotography, none of the "add on features" matter. They are pretty much worthless, so long as you actually have AF. (More on why in a moment.) Resolution in astrophotography is also evaluated in an entirely different way as well, and for the most part, you want to "match" sensor resolution to lens resolving power in a specific way. The term used to describe this matching of resolutions is "image scale", and I'll go into detail in a second here. Lets start with a couple of exceptions to the image scale guidelines.
First, for those who like to image star waveforms (diffraction patterns), for the purposes of analysis of things like double and multiple-star systems, exoplanet investigation, etc. resolution is absolute king. You want as much resolution as you can get. It is not uncommon to use focal lengths of thousands of millimeters, even ten thousand millimeters or so. The smaller your pixels, the better your sensor will be able to resolve the airy pattern. In terms of normal resolution in normal photography, you really aren't gaining "resolution" here. These systems for surveying star patterns are usually fully diffraction limited. Were talking about F/Ratios in the range of f/29 to f/40 or beyond. In regular photography, that would cause significant blurring because diffraction is softening the image. In star surveying, however, your working with individual points of light...there is no blurring, your just magnifying the actual diffraction effect, and your analyzing it directly. A LOT can be learned about stars by analyzing heavily magnified diffraction patterns.
Second, planetary imaging tends to be high focal length/high f-ratio. Planets are pretty small in the grand scheme of things, so again it is not uncommon to see thousands of millimeters focal length and high f-ratios in the f/10-f/20 range. Planetary imaging is quite different than normal astrophotography, it is usually done with video, at high crops and ultra high frame rates (320x240px @ 200fps is not unheard of), and having lots of resolution helps. Planetary imaging is all about superresolution and "seeing through" atmospheric turbulence. Having a lot of sensor resolution in this circumstance is also helpful. In the end, many thousands of frames, some of which may appear quite blurry due to atmospheric turbulence, are processed, the bad ones are thrown away, the best ones are kept, and stacked with a superresolution algorithm to produce crisp, high resolution images if planets.
In both of the above cases, small pixels are a huge benefit. When it comes to imaging larger objects, DSOs or Deep Sky/Space Objects, resolution is a bit different. This is where Image Scale comes into play. Image scale is an angular measure of arcseconds per pixel (angular, because pretty much everything in astrophotography is done in angular space...pointing, tracking, coordinates, etc.) You determine the arcseconds per pixel (image scale) by using the following formula:
Code:
imageScale = (206.265 * pixelSize) / focalLength
In the case of the current 7D, with a 600mm lens (what I've been using so far), my image scale is 1.478"/px. In the case of a larger, longer telescope, such as the AT8RC astrograph, which has a focal length of 1625mm, the image scale would be 0.546"/px. If I was using that telescope with a 2x or 3x barlow on it, which multiplies the focal length like a teleconverter, image scale would be 0.273"/px and 0.182"/px, respectively. The image scale becomes critically important once you understand how the resolving power of a telescope affects the distribution of light at the sensor.
Before we get into that, a quick sidebar on star sizes. Star size, from earth-bound telescopes, is ultimately a product of their native size combined with the impact of seeing. Seeing, the term we give to how well we can see the true form of stars due to atmospheric turbulence, can blur stars and make them larger than they actually are. On a night of excellent seeing, where atmospheric turbulence is low, the average star size for naked-eye star gets close to their true size, around 1.8". When seeing is worse than excellent, the average star size can increase to 2" or 3", possibly even larger. For the most part, we figure average seeing produces stars around 2.2", or a little over two arcseconds. Ok, now that you understand star size, back to the discussion of image scale.
In astrophotography, we aim to match lens resolution to sensor resolution in such a way that our image scale falls somewhere between 0.75" to 1" per pixel, or 0.75"/px to 1.0"/px. For stars that are 2"-3" in size, this results in each star covering about a little more than a 2x2 pixel grid of pixels. This avoids a problem where, when image scale is too large, stars end up looking like square pixels, instead of round dots. It also avoids another problem, the light spread problem, which I'll go into in a bit. In my case, my seeing makes my stars about 2.8-3.2" in size (I don't have very good seeing most of the time here in Colorado) in most nights. On the best nights (like two nights ago) I've had my seeing as low as 2.2". For the average case, my image scale of 1.478" is pretty decent, although for smaller stars, it does tend to make the smaller/dimmer stars a little square. An image scale of 1-1.2" would be more ideal.
Beyond simply avoiding square stars, keeping your image scale at a reasonable level can be important to achieving the right exposure "depth". This isn't a term we use in normal photography, as we tend to work with relatively gargantuan quantities of light. It only takes a fraction of a second to saturate our pixels with normal photography, and we often have significant problems with dynamic range in the sense that our scenes contain considerably more than we can capture in those extremely small timeslices. In astrophotography, we often have the opposite problem...it can be very difficult to saturate our pixels and achieve a reasonable signal to noise ratio. If our image scale is too small, say 0.5", 0.2", 0.1" then that means that the light from one single star is spread out over a 4x4, 10x10, or 20x20 matrix of pixels. The smaller our image scale, the less saturated each pixel is going to be. This is a problem where light is being spread out over too great an area on the sensor, which greatly impacts our ability to get a saturated exposure with a strong signal, and therefor high SNR.
If you are using a monochrome CCD camera designed for astrophotography, you usually have the option of "binning" pixels during readout. A sensor with 4.5µm pixels can be binned 2x2, 3x3, 4x4, sometimes even nxn. That gives you the option of having 8µm, 13.5µm, 16µm pixels if you need. As you increase focal length, binning, usually 2x2, becomes very useful as it helps you keep your image scale within that "ideal" range. Electronically binned pixels are effectively equivalent to having larger pixels, which is a bit different than averaging pixels in post with downsampling. With downsampling, you reduce noise and increase SNR, but don't actually improve signal strength, where as with binning, you DO increase signal strength.
When using a DSLR, it can be difficult to achieve an ideal image scale, since you cannot bin. That limits you to using a certain range of focal lengths, or else means you have to expose for a much longer period of time to get the same results. Now...in with the 7D II. I do not yet know what it holds (I think Don wrote a humorus post on that very subject last night on one thread or another, basically epitomizing how we really don't know JACK about the 7D II, despite all the "informative" rumors!

) Assuming the 7D II gets the much-needed boost to quantum efficiency it really needs to perform well (I'm really hoping it lands somewhere around 56% Q.E.), then I think, for its pixel size, that it could be a very good performer for astrophotography.
It would ultimately depend on the other sensor factors...the most important of which is the IR filter. DSLRs are, in the grand scheme of things, are actually really CRAPPY for astrophotography, The IR filters block out most of the red light at the most critical emission band: Hydrogen-alpha, or 656.28nm wavelength. Most of emission nebula in our skies are comprised of hydrogen, which when excited, emits light in a few very narrow bands. Hydrogen has two key emission bands for astrophotography: Hydrogen-alpha (Ha) and Hydrogen-Beta (Hb). Ha is a very red band, and Hb is a very blue band, which results in a pinkish-red color. Most DSLRs pass a mere 12% or less at the Ha band, while a monochrome CCD will usually pass anywhere from 45% to 80% at the Ha band.
You did mention a full-time astro mod of the 7D II. There are a few astro conversion mod options available for DSLRs. You can simply replace the IR/UV filters in the filter stack with Baader or Astrodon filters that are better-suited to astrophotography, where they pass 90% or more of the light through the entire visible spectrum, with a "square" falloff into IR. You can also get full spectrum filters that will block UV, but pass the entire visible spectrum then gradually fall off into deep IR (useful for infrared imaging as well as astro imaging so long as you use an additional IR block filter when doing visual work). Finally you can do full mono mods, where the CFA (and the microlenses) are actually scraped off the sensor. With a full mono mod, you can greatly increase the sensitivity of the sensor, but it becomes useless for any other kind of astrophotography. It should also be warned, converting any DSLR for astro use can greatly diminish it's usefulness for regular photography. Even a basic astro IR/UV mod has a considerable impact on the reds in your photography, and you will forever be bound to using custom white balance modes...none of the defaults will ever work again.
So, if the 7D II comes in with a much-needed Q.E. boost, and so long as you are using moderate focal lengths (400-1200 I'd say), it would make for a decent astrocam. If you modded it with a Baader or Astrodon IR filter, it would probably be quite excellent, in the grand scheme of DSLRs used for astrophotography. It will never compare to even the cheapest thermally regulated CCD camera, and in the case of some of the lower end ones, you can spend a mere $1500 on a good cooled CCD, where as the 7D II is likely to hit the streets with a price at least $500 higher, if not more. If you REALLY want to get into astrophotography, I highly recommend looking into some of the lower end cooled CCDs, as even the cheapest one is likely to be better for astro than any DSLR, modded or otherwise.