Best lens for puppy photography?
- Thread starter ahsanford
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slclick said:
Click said:
CanonFanBoy said:
Thanks Guys, for those comments. I really like this shot of my 'Pup', the light had that sort of 'loaming' quality to it. I shot it a few years ago and it's one of a couple that I was convinced I had taken with the 50/1.4. Then I found it was actually the 40 pancake. It's a really good lens that delivers in quality and I've never been disappointed by it.
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Sporgon said:
+1 to the compliments on the shot -- lovely work.
I just hate missing moments with that pancake (we all own that lens, don't we?). These are living creatures that tend to not like me cracking out my rig. So even with treats and toys, they don't stay focused for long. So I strongly prefer USM focusing to nail things down quickly, but as Sporgon has demonstrated, it is certainly not a must.
- A
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Meanwhile, this pops up via canonpricewatch auto-alert:
http://www.adorama.com/US%20%20%20%20774561.html?emailprice=t&sub=used-37199476&hotlink=t&svfor=5m&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_source=rflaid62259
...but it's at Adorama, and pretty dinged up at that.
It almost felt like a sign. I'll just wait for another Canon refurb store sale.
- A
http://www.adorama.com/US%20%20%20%20774561.html?emailprice=t&sub=used-37199476&hotlink=t&svfor=5m&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_source=rflaid62259
...but it's at Adorama, and pretty dinged up at that.
It almost felt like a sign. I'll just wait for another Canon refurb store sale.
- A
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My first thought before I read through this was the 24-70 zoom but after I read through it I also fall into the 40mm pancake camp. I also LOVE to shoot my 15mm EF Fisheye.
However, what about another thought... go old school. Throw on whatever lens you like, fast prime, whatever. Then go all manual. Get the exposure close and then get out the gaffer tape for once you fine tune a good focus point for the distance. Find a focus point that is in the ballpark and then shoot away. This way, the focus will be good in many shots and AF performance won't be an issue.
Hey, I'm not saying this is the way to go for EVERY shot but you might surprise yourself with what you can achieve. The film is cheap and all it takes is getting a few great shots each session. Even if the focus is off a tiny bit, it will still be a great shot depending on the aperture, light and composition. Piece of cake!
(LOL)
Also, if you get WAY BACK with a 70-200 f/2.8 IS, you can take advantage of the longer focal length to get fairly focused shots from a distance at f/2.8. (With decent shutter speed.)
Another idea: Set up some kind of picture trap. You know, set up the camera however you like pointed at some kind of irresistible attraction and fire the shutter remotely (on Silent Shutter mode). You can get those radio remote shutter releases online for pretty cheap. I've had one for years. Or just use the good ole wired one.
Good luck. My main point here is to have fun and see how many things you can try to see what works. Let us know how it goes and share some shots.
However, what about another thought... go old school. Throw on whatever lens you like, fast prime, whatever. Then go all manual. Get the exposure close and then get out the gaffer tape for once you fine tune a good focus point for the distance. Find a focus point that is in the ballpark and then shoot away. This way, the focus will be good in many shots and AF performance won't be an issue.
Hey, I'm not saying this is the way to go for EVERY shot but you might surprise yourself with what you can achieve. The film is cheap and all it takes is getting a few great shots each session. Even if the focus is off a tiny bit, it will still be a great shot depending on the aperture, light and composition. Piece of cake!
(LOL)Also, if you get WAY BACK with a 70-200 f/2.8 IS, you can take advantage of the longer focal length to get fairly focused shots from a distance at f/2.8. (With decent shutter speed.)
Another idea: Set up some kind of picture trap. You know, set up the camera however you like pointed at some kind of irresistible attraction and fire the shutter remotely (on Silent Shutter mode). You can get those radio remote shutter releases online for pretty cheap. I've had one for years. Or just use the good ole wired one.
Good luck. My main point here is to have fun and see how many things you can try to see what works. Let us know how it goes and share some shots.
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Love the topic!
I have been taking photos of the black lab we have been raising for the past 9 months, it has been a learning experience for me.
I miss the old fast primes I used back in the 80s and 90s - this topic is making me think I should get a 50mm before we raise the next puppy (along with a new body to replace our current 7D).
Most of our shots have been with the 2.8 24-70L. Shooting the black labs has also pushed me from shooting some in JPEG to shooting all RAW in order to have a chance at capturing the puppy/dog while also not losing the highlights.
With our old 7D I struggle to get good indoor pics with our available light. Most of my better pics have been outdoors. Though as she is getting closer to being a year old it is getting easier to shoot indoors as she is less likely to charge the camera with a tongue licking.
I have been taking photos of the black lab we have been raising for the past 9 months, it has been a learning experience for me.
I miss the old fast primes I used back in the 80s and 90s - this topic is making me think I should get a 50mm before we raise the next puppy (along with a new body to replace our current 7D).
Most of our shots have been with the 2.8 24-70L. Shooting the black labs has also pushed me from shooting some in JPEG to shooting all RAW in order to have a chance at capturing the puppy/dog while also not losing the highlights.
With our old 7D I struggle to get good indoor pics with our available light. Most of my better pics have been outdoors. Though as she is getting closer to being a year old it is getting easier to shoot indoors as she is less likely to charge the camera with a tongue licking.
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It's just that dogs in our family have always been frantic monsters -- and they cannot stand a camera. Even with treats/toys, they are bright enough to know that the camera is out and they tune out very quickly. So the attached shots are hits from a very low hit rate activity. For the indoor shots, I must throw out 90% of my shots.
First is 100L (outdoors -- were a fast zoom would be the preference for AF, but that's what I had on me at the time)
Second is 70-200 f/2.8L IS II for perhaps the only wakeful + still moment I've seen from this one in years.
Third is the Sigma 35 Art. Don't blame the lens for the harsh rendering -- I made some radioactive changes in post.
Speaking of that -- our dog is the black lab max in shots #2 and 3. For the unique combo of handheld + indoors + no flash + black dog, how do I get her coat to pop without horrifically abusing the highlights/shadows/clarity sliders? Is it natural light or bust, or is there a metering / EV comp / ideal histo trick or goal I should pursue?
- A
First is 100L (outdoors -- were a fast zoom would be the preference for AF, but that's what I had on me at the time)
Second is 70-200 f/2.8L IS II for perhaps the only wakeful + still moment I've seen from this one in years.
Third is the Sigma 35 Art. Don't blame the lens for the harsh rendering -- I made some radioactive changes in post.
Speaking of that -- our dog is the black lab max in shots #2 and 3. For the unique combo of handheld + indoors + no flash + black dog, how do I get her coat to pop without horrifically abusing the highlights/shadows/clarity sliders? Is it natural light or bust, or is there a metering / EV comp / ideal histo trick or goal I should pursue?
- A
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You'll need an EXMOR sensor and then you can push the shadows of the furahsanford said:
;DHonestly the only way is to be really carefull with subject (black dog) and bg (not too bright)
And in my opinion you did quite well in your example #2 except that you overexposed (in post?) the dogs head.
A black fur is still black and should not become that grey. In this case you'd lose some bg detail but that's okay IMO.
#3 was much more difficult and I am not sure how you could have done better without fill flash (I wouldn't use that as well) or changing position to get a bg less bright.
(disclaimer: and you'd need that technique with an EXMOR as well to acheive a natural look)
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ahsanford said:
One the shot is made there is little you can do other than rely on the latitude of the sensor and the shadows/highlights sliders, hence maximilian's comment on the Exmor. Maybe you can buy second hand Olympus micro four-thirds really cheap now for the indoor and static shots.
Exposure compensation won't do it because you will still have the same exposure latitude and will only rely on heavy shadow recovery.
For shot #2, I can tink of two solutions
Firstly if the pup is lying down like that are you close enough to hold a diffuser out of shot to soften the light? I know you also mention holding a toy to get their attention but in my experience when slobbed out like that they follow you with their eyes anyway especially if you make a sudden high-pitched sound list a sharp 'Psst'. Secondly you could set the camera to three-exposure bracketing offset with exposure compensation so you are shooting at 0, -1 and -2. If you press and hold the shutter button the camera should fire all 3 in rapid succession. When you have identified a shot you really like then go to post processing, stack the photos as layers and paint through with low opacity to add texture to the burnt out highlights. As a real cheat, if you only have that one shot, copy the image to a second layer, offset the lower version so darker fur lies underneath the burnt out area and paint through in the same way. Fur texture may give it way but if you are careful with how you offset the lower image it may help. This may even work for action shots if you have a library offering different exposures on the fur.
I have exactly the same problem when shooting coots and trying to balance the bright white beak with jet black plumage and have had to be....creative.
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Update: 'tranquil moment' shots in the kitchen (in the far more naturally lit kitchen) have been a disaster -- the little one sees the camera as a toy and charges at it.
But I did nab one on the sofa under wretched lighting at ISO 8000 on the 5D3. Baby steps, right?
- A
But I did nab one on the sofa under wretched lighting at ISO 8000 on the 5D3. Baby steps, right?
- A
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This is a well timed thread! We are bringing home our black lab puppy at the end of April! I too have been pondering my needs/wants for puppy photography and how to overcome dim indoor light + a black lab! I picked up the 50mm f1.8 STM in anticipation. For the price, I couldn't argue it being a good starting place, at least have something for indoor/portrait. For outdoor action (with friends dogs) I've had good results with the 300 f4 but the 70-200ii seems like the best possible option, particularly in a tighter backyard scenario. Ive done some googling on the subject of dog photography and the 16-35 2.8 comes up a lot but this is also in the context of outdoor professional shoots.
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Well done, j-nord.ahsanford said:
Seems like a great choice! I'm going to give the 50 f1.8 STM a try although I know the focus will be slow. I don't shoot portrait so I can't really justify picking a decent prime. I might rent or 'rent' via eBay when the time comes.
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