TeenTog said:still though, it would be nice to see a replacement.
Not push/pull? I could go for that feature.
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TeenTog said:still though, it would be nice to see a replacement.
FunPhotons said:The 1.2 TC doesn't add much, and the 2X has other issues as mentioned (there is no free lunch).
That is a great rate. I have not shot any at 1/30th. May be I should try that. I am sure the IS II is better though. When I bought it, I did not have the option to get a 70-200 + 2x TC.Lee Jay said:rpt said:Hmmm... Again not my experience. My daughter who is 5'3 hand shot the moon a couple of times on my 300D at 400mm and 1/60th. And the shots were sharp. Sorry you are not happy with yours.Lee Jay said:This had nothing to do with AF, it had to do with IS being pretty darned worthless on this lens, at least compared to more modern lenses.
I got about 50% at 1/60th and 300mm. I get 90+% at 1/30th and 300mm on my 70-200 (with TCs).
Daniel Flather said:Why not make it a 200-400 f4/5.6L? I doubt most of its users will use it below 200mm. It's seen as an alternative to the 400/5.6L as it's reportedly(1) sharper at 400mm versus the prime lens.
twdi said:But I expect I would use it 99% at 400 so why not the prime
neuroanatomist said:twdi said:But I expect I would use it 99% at 400 so why not the prime
Have you shot with one enough to know if your expectation is valid? It's likely close, at least. For me, about 15% of shos with the lens are at 150mm and shorter. So, why don't I have the prime? IS and physical length. At 400mm on APS-C (I almost always use my 100-400 with my 7D, since if you're focal length-limited, APS-C is a better choice), you need approximately 1/640 s for a decent handheld keeper rate. Over 50% of my shots with the lens are slower than 1/640 s (mostly 1/250-1/500 s), so I'm getting a lot of benefit from the IS. Also, the 100-400mm gets you to 400mm with a lens that's nearly 3" shorter (when retracted) than the 400mm f/5.6L prime - that means the zoom fits in my Lowepro Toploader 75 AW whereas the 400/5.6 prime would not, similarly for many other bags.
alan_k said:I have the 70-300L + Kenko 1.4x TC (one of the only ones that will fit). I've done a couple of tests and didn't see much point to the TC. Slows down af, and you can crop @300mm and get something that looked as good as if it were shot with the tc. At least in my experience.
alan_k said:That said, not everyone wants to drag the 70-200 2.8 around due to the weight. If I were hiking around for a few hours, I'd much rather have the 70-300L or 100-400L.
aldvan said:The 100-400 is, in a way, my standard lens, always on a 1Ds MkIII. It is something very different from what a 200-400 could be. Backed up by a 16-35 on a 5D MkII, it covers the 99% of situations
tomscott said:I have had nothing but good experiences with this lens. In the day before IS people didnt complain. If you are relying on technology like IS too much you need to go back to how you shoot and improve.
Lee Jay said:tomscott said:I have had nothing but good experiences with this lens. In the day before IS people didnt complain. If you are relying on technology like IS too much you need to go back to how you shoot and improve.
What a ridiculous thing to say.
I was shooting indoors from a long distance with an 18MP 1.6-crop camera. I could shoot at ISO 12,800 and 1/500th or I could shoot at ISO 800 1/60th. No tripods are allowed in the building. Do you think you can hand-hold a 400mm lens on an 18MP 1.6-crop camera and reliably get pixel-sharp results at 1/60th? Or do you think the IQ at ISO 12,800 is a better way to go than the IQ at ISO 800?
tron said:Lee Jay said:tomscott said:I have had nothing but good experiences with this lens. In the day before IS people didnt complain. If you are relying on technology like IS too much you need to go back to how you shoot and improve.
What a ridiculous thing to say.
I was shooting indoors from a long distance with an 18MP 1.6-crop camera. I could shoot at ISO 12,800 and 1/500th or I could shoot at ISO 800 1/60th. No tripods are allowed in the building. Do you think you can hand-hold a 400mm lens on an 18MP 1.6-crop camera and reliably get pixel-sharp results at 1/60th? Or do you think the IQ at ISO 12,800 is a better way to go than the IQ at ISO 800?
You said nothing of the type of subject (static, moving).
"indoors from a long distance " You mean sports? In that case IS is not very helpful. For a static subject you could make use of existing IS. 2 stops IS not 0 stops.
If you can shoot a static object ISO 12800 1/500 , you could try ISO 3200 1/125
Lee Jay said:I'd rather use my 70-200 and get ISO 800 and 1/30th in the same environment.
tron said:Lee Jay said:I'd rather use my 70-200 and get ISO 800 and 1/30th in the same environment.
+1 on the use of 70-200. Which one?
I have both (f/4 IS and f/2.8 IS II) but I have the feeling that the f/4 version has a SUPER IS.
The 2.8 is larger, heavier and more difficult to hold (speeking for myself, other people think it's easier to keep steady a heavy lens).