Canon EOS 1Ds MkIII

[Pedro Ramones]

I am thinking on getting an used 1Ds Mk3 body, as i have one 1DsMk2 and loooooove it ! vídeo means nothing to me, so i dispatched my 1Dmk4 and going to do the same with the 70D, because i really love full frame and not crap...ops...crop bodies so what do you people think, is it still worth getting the 1dsmk3 ?

 

[Loswr]

Sure, as long as you don't need the higher ISO settings available on more recent cameras (the 1DsIII tops out at ISO 3200).

 

[J.R.]

If you can get a good body for a reasonable price, why not? Personally, I liked the files out of the 1Ds III (shot briefly with it when I borrowed it sometime back). The skin tones were the most awesome thing with the 1Ds III and to me is still unmatched. Also, the files seemed sharper and smoother at the same time - not sure I'm making sense here but that was my feeling about the 1Ds III.

I wish I had one of these but $$$ :-[

 

[privatebydesign]

NO, not unless you have a very compelling reason to NEED a 1 series body the 5D MkIII is a much better camera. Better AF, better ergonomics, vastly better iso capacity, better flash compatibility, the list just goes on and on.

I have had 1Ds MkIII's for years, and even I am tempted to sell them to move up to the 5D MkIII's, the very few 1 series features that are unique, whilst nice, are not very convincing when compared to the major features the 5D MkIII has over the abandoned 1Ds series.

Having said all that, the 1Ds MkIII is a very major upgrade from your 1Ds MkII, it was a huge upgrade, battery, screen, self cleaning sensor etc etc.

 

[StudentOfLight]

If you plan shooting in Studio environment or maybe Landscape then the 1Ds-III is worth considering.

PROS:
It has solid build quality and weather sealing
Durable shutter mechanism,
1/250s sync speed
The AF system is more than adequate
Multi-spot metering

CONS:
Where it lags behind modern cameras is in high-ISO noise performance. I only shoot mine up to maximum ISO 1600. In a studio environment you can comfortably live in the 100-400 ISO range.
It's LCD screen is also ancient by modern standards.

If you can get a low mileage body for 40-50% less than a 5D-III then it is worth considering. If you want the camera for general everyday shooting then the 5D-III is a more capable camera.

 

[Sporgon]

I have had 1Ds MkIII's for years, and even I am tempted to sell them to move up to the 5D MkIII's,

You won't be on your own. I know a few guys who replaced their 1Ds III's with 5D III's. I'm sure that due to the amount the 5D II ate into 1Ds sales the 5D III is effectively the replacement.

 

[jonathan7007]

Good advice in the above posts.

I decided to have both 5DMk3 and 1DsMk3 body choice in my kit. It was an experiment at first. I loved the files at low ISO like 100 or 200. I, too, noticed how good it was with faces, skin tones.

I don't like the coarse view screen, especially if not tethered and the client wants to see what was captured. I admit there are times I feel I can't tell if I have what I want on that screen... we're really spoiled with the 5D3's great display.

So the "pro" arguments that keeps these in the kit are: the benefit this body delivers anywhere I can go with a low ISO or want a more waterproof body. Stronger mechanics and body construction. (I love the sound of the shutter!) If I was still doing studio product work (and didn't invest in a medium format) this would be a great choice.

Minor con: although I tether with EOS Utility I also try to use the Android dSLR Controller program when appropriate and the older control software in the 1Ds precludes use of some of the features of that viewer/controller. But most work OK.

Another pro (?) (admittedly anecdotal): I was shooting an event with a 580EX attached on a bracket through the off-camera cord on one of my 5DMk3 bodies. Lens was the 24-70v2. I asked the camera to use the flash-delivered focus-assist. But I was having a hard time seeing and confirming I had focus. Some of this is the lame focus confirmation, and some seemed to be uncertainty rabbing focus on the part of the body.

Much internal screaming.

I had a momentary break and swapped out the body in the rig for a 1DsMk3. Everything else the same but no focus assist, right? Wow, focus was popping immediately where I asked it to go. Yes, I sometimes rolled the focus point to a different sector when I had to but that momentary delay was less than many of the earlier pauses while I tried to be sure the body-lens combo had actually focused.

Event was in the usual slightly dark room. Grey ceiling way way above me so depth-of-field resulting from my bounce was not helping me much (or at all..) (White card hovering above flash front lens.) But there was enough light for the 1Ds focus to seem faster and more sure of itself.

Just wanted to contribute to what is a personal decision about mix of bodies. Can't cost-justify one or more 1Dx bodies. I didn't find these 1Ds's at one-half the cost of a 5DMk3, wish I had, but it seemed that the reliable ones cost about 2100 last year. Maybe another year has reduced the cost. I also live way out somewhere making returns, back-and-forth a real hassle.

YMMV

jonathan7007

 

[StudentOfLight]

... I didn't find these 1Ds's at one-half the cost of a 5DMk3, wish I had, but it seemed that the reliable ones cost about 2100 last year. Maybe another year has reduced the cost. I also live way out somewhere making returns, back-and-forth a real hassle.

YMMV

jonathan7007

I guess I was lucky. I managed to pick mine up for $1600. (+180 for an additional LP-E4N battery)

 

[gsealy]

Just to add to the conversation -- I have a 1Ds II that I use strictly for landscape and doing time lapse. I bought it used for way less than $1K with only a 20K shutter count. It is rated at 200K so there was a lot of life left in it. Time lapse consumes a ton of pictures every time out, and once the shot is focused, and the exposure is set (all manual mode) there is not much more to do than wait and let the camera bang them out. Using the 1Ds in this fashion takes the load off of my other cameras. The thing is, the 1Ds when coupled with a great lens takes excellent pictures. They are definitely good enough for a time lapse sequence.