Deep Sky Astrophotography

StudentOfLight

I'm on a life-long journey of self-discovery
Nov 2, 2013
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jrista said:
Drizzle doesn't really scale the data up before stacking. Drizzle is a means by which you actually gain true resolution due to the way the information from all the subs is combined, assuming the data was undersampled and also properly dithered (dithering is critical for drizzling to work). It is a form of superresolution, which can potentially allow you to resolve information beyond the diffraction limit of the lens, and certainly beyond the limit of seeing.

The actual algorithm's mechanism is actually somewhat complex, so I won't go into it here. Suffice it to say, if you are undersampled (which is usually the case with the average DSLR pixel size and camera lenses or short refractors), you can get much cleaner data, rounder stars, smaller stars, and more detail if you drizzle. Also note that this is not only an option in DSS. It is an algorithm originally designed by for scientific purposes, and has been utilized by the Hubble team to increase resolution with some of the imager data from the Hubble telescope (although they tend to be significantly more precise in their dithering, down to the exact pixel level.)
I was speaking under correction so thanks for the clarification. Astrophotography is a huge investment in time, storage and processing, and it helps to do things the best way that we can to maximize on that investment.

When you say undersampling do you mean shorter exposures or where cropping is required or something else? Also could you please elaborate on dithering. I've tried reading up on these subjects but the wiki pages I found appear to be framed more in terms of audio and so it's hard to connect to imaging, at least to me it is. :-[
 
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StudentOfLight

I'm on a life-long journey of self-discovery
Nov 2, 2013
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Cape Town
telemaq76 said:
i just tried my first drizzle this mornin with old images of M51. Some pictures i took with 1000mm focale length,
my canon 500f4 and a teleconverter X2. I m pretty happy with the result.
40x180 sec f8 iso-800
49 dark
DSS with drizzle 3x
This is one of the deep sky objects that makes me jealous of you Northern Hemisphere guys. It barely creeps above the horizon here :'(
 
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In DSS you get 2 options for drizzle.One is in the "raw setings" menu as a way to avoid interpolation and you need to dither (it is the one jrista is talking about).The other is in the stacking parameters menu and is the one that produces a larger size image so I believe you are talking about two different things but Im no guru anyway!Well...here's my Pleiades (500d 43x1min iso 800 + about 50 darks + 100 bias using a Jupiter 200mm at f5.6).Notice the almost absent color and the bad star quality!hahaha!!
 

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StudentOfLight

I'm on a life-long journey of self-discovery
Nov 2, 2013
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Cape Town
Thanks Click. I have a love affair with the Carina Nebula.

Just out of interest, here is a comparison illustrating the difference in apparent size between Carina and Orion. Now on top of that consider that Carina is six times further away than Orion...
 

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StudentOfLight said:
Thanks Click. I have a love affair with the Carina Nebula.

Just out of interest, here is a comparison illustrating the difference in apparent size between Carina and Orion. Now on top of that consider that Carina is six times further away than Orion...

Carina is massive. It isn't really a nebula like Orion, it is a full blown molecular cloud and HII region. It is significantly larger than the Orion Nebula in real terms.
 
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I have a question about exposure, when we say the histogram should have a seperation from the left part we do mean each individual channel right?Not the luminance histogram.Also i've been trying to image the heart and soul nebulas which are not visible in a single exposure.I tried magic lantern's display gain in conjuction with liveview fps override but it wasn't enough.Any tricks I can do?I'm going out only with my dslr and star adventurer so no laptops or anything.I guess the only solution is a goto mount!
 
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alexthegreek said:
I have a question about exposure, when we say the histogram should have a seperation from the left part we do mean each individual channel right?Not the luminance histogram.Also i've been trying to image the heart and soul nebulas which are not visible in a single exposure.I tried magic lantern's display gain in conjuction with liveview fps override but it wasn't enough.Any tricks I can do?I'm going out only with my dslr and star adventurer so no laptops or anything.I guess the only solution is a goto mount!

So if you are in a good dark sky site and shooting really low light emission nebula, you will need to increase your iso above normal levels above iso 1600 when using the star adventurer. Ive used that mount quite a bit and you are pretty limited to exposures of less than 60 seconds. If you dont care that much for perfect stars, you can go a bit longer. However the only way is to use a higher iso to record more light and just live with the noise until you can get a better mount. There is a pretty consistent increase in the cost of the gear vs the reduction of noise in the final image. If your budget is limited then you do what you can. The goal is to record the image and then figure out what you need to do to improve it.
 
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rpt

Mar 7, 2012
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telemaq76 said:
finally a clear sky after one month waiting, i tried a new target, ngc 2174 in orion constellation
23x4 min for colors and 12x4 minutes for h-alpha....i took lots more then i realized my lens was ice covered, after maybe one hour of shooting. then i kept only 12 subs for h-alpha

I see faces in that.

Happy new year all!
 
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